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Features that count
On electric cooktops. Consider where the controls are located. On most electric cooktops, controls take up room on the surface. Some models have electronic touchpads, however, allowing the cooktop to be flush with the counter.


For electric cooktops

Consider where the controls are located. On most electric cooktops, they take up room on the surface. Some electric cooktops have electronic touchpads that allow the cooktop to be flush with the counter.

Coil elements, the least expensive electric option, are easy to replace if they break. Spending $200 more will buy you a smoothtop model.

Most smoothtops have expandable or dual elements that allow you to switch between a large, high-power element and a small, low-power element contained within it. Some include a low-wattage element for warming plates or keeping just-cooked food at the optimal temperature. Some have an elongated "bridge" element that spans two burners to accommodate rectangular or odd-shaped cookware. And many have at least one hot-surface light-a key safety feature, since the surface can remain hot long after the elements have been turned off. The safest setup includes a dedicated "hot" light for each element.

Many electric cooktops have one large higher-wattage element in front and one in back. An expanded simmer range on some smoothtop models lets you fine-tune the simmer setting on one element for, say, melting chocolate or keeping a sauce from getting too hot.

On gas cooktops. Most gas cooktops have four burners in three sizes, measured in British thermal units per hour (Btu/hr.): one or two medium-power burners (about 9,000 Btu/hr.), a small burner (about 5,000 Btu/hr.), and one or two large ones (about 12,500 Btu/hr.). We recommend a model with one or more 12,000 Btu/hr. burners for quick cooktop heating. Some have a fifth burner instead of a center island. On a few models, the burners automatically re-ignite. Look for models that use larger burners for higher heat, so you can tell at a glance which burner is which.


For gas cooktops

Most gas cooktops have four burners in three sizes, measured in British thermal units per hour (Btu/hr.): one or two medium-power burners (about 9,000 Btu/hr.); a small burner (about 5,000 Btu/hr.); and one or two large ones (about 12,500 Btu/hr. or more). We recommend a model with one or more 12,000 Btu/hr. burners for quick cooktop heating. Some have a fifth burner instead of a center island. Some burners automatically reignite. Look for models that use larger burners for higher heat, so you can tell at a glance which burner is which. Spending more often buys you a low-power simmer burner with an extra-low setting for delicate sauces (though other burners should be capable of simmering). Also useful: heavy porcelain-coated cast-iron or stainless-steel continuous grates that stand up to abuse and let you slide cookware between burners.


For wall ovens

UNDERCOVER COOKING A covered bottom oven element, shown at top, is more stylish and easier to clean than a typical uncovered element, below it.
A self-cleaning cycle uses high heat to burn off spills and splatters. An automatic door lock, found on most self-cleaning models, is activated during the cycle, then unlocks when the oven has cooled. Also useful is a self-cleaning countdown display, which shows the time left in the cycle.

Higher-priced models often include convection, which uses a fan and sometimes an electric element to circulate heated air. It can cut cooking time for large roasts, but you typically pay hundreds more for it. A few electric ovens have a low-power microwave feature that works with bake and broil elements to speed cooking time further. Some use a halogen heating bulb as well as microwaves. Another cooking technology, Trivection, uses thermal heating, convection, and microwaves to cut cooking time. Though very good overall, it's very expensive.

A variable-broil feature in most electric ovens offers adjustable settings for foods that need slower or faster cooking. Ovens with 12-hour shutoff turn off automatically if you leave the oven on for that long. But most models let you disable it, while a child lockout lets you disable oven controls for safety.

Electronic touchpad controls are common, while a digital display makes it easier to set and monitor the precise temperature. A cook time/delay start lets you set a time for the oven to start and stop cooking, though you shouldn't leave most foods in a cold oven for long. An automatic oven light typically comes on when the door opens, although some ovens have a switch-operated light. Also useful: a temperature probe you insert into meat or poultry to indicate doneness. Oven windows without a decorative grid usually offer the clearest view, though you may welcome the grid to hide pots and pans if you store them in the oven.