May 2006
Induction cooktops are promising, but not perfect
COOLER KITCHEN Induction concentrates heat in the pot, not on the cooktop, as our cut-away pan shows.
Induction cooktops are the fastest-heating cooktops we’ve ever tested. Here’s how induction works: Electricity passes through
the magnetic elements under the cooktop’s glass—covered surface. This produces a magnetic field that heats the pan on the
stove. While this technology isn’t new—some restaurants and cooking schools use it—it’s being marketed for home use by industry
heavyweights such as Gaggenau, Kenmore, and Viking.
How they fared: Besides breaking our speed record for bringing 6 quarts of water to a near boil, the induction cooktops we tested simmered sauce flawlessly and remained relatively cool because most of the heat generated by induction goes into the pan, not the surrounding kitchen. The cooler cooktop minimizes burnt-on spills. All these induction elements also shut off automatically when the pot is removed, even if you don’t turn them off. This reduces the chance of cooking fires, which are a leading cause of house fires. (To learn more about cooking safety, see Lowering the risk of range fires.)
Sound appetizing? Well, you’ll pay a premium for induction. Prices start at $1,800 for the Kenmore induction cooktop and go up to about $3,500 for Gaggenau. Compare that with $550 to $750 for top-performing electric cooktops and $650 to $1,200 for gas. While the relatively inexpensive Kenmore offers excellent cooking performance, its touchpad controls were finicky in our tests. Sometimes reacting to our testers’ touch, other times not. Nor can you use all four elements on high power at once. The pricey Gaggenau has only one element, and its controls took some getting used to. They also require cookware made of cast iron or enameled steel. Some stainless-steel cookware will work. Aluminum or copper will not. If a magnet attaches to it, it will work.
CR’s take: Induction cooktops were mostly impressive. If you are willing to overlook the kinks, induction provides excellent cooking performance. Otherwise, wait until its reliability is proven.
How they fared: Besides breaking our speed record for bringing 6 quarts of water to a near boil, the induction cooktops we tested simmered sauce flawlessly and remained relatively cool because most of the heat generated by induction goes into the pan, not the surrounding kitchen. The cooler cooktop minimizes burnt-on spills. All these induction elements also shut off automatically when the pot is removed, even if you don’t turn them off. This reduces the chance of cooking fires, which are a leading cause of house fires. (To learn more about cooking safety, see Lowering the risk of range fires.)
Sound appetizing? Well, you’ll pay a premium for induction. Prices start at $1,800 for the Kenmore induction cooktop and go up to about $3,500 for Gaggenau. Compare that with $550 to $750 for top-performing electric cooktops and $650 to $1,200 for gas. While the relatively inexpensive Kenmore offers excellent cooking performance, its touchpad controls were finicky in our tests. Sometimes reacting to our testers’ touch, other times not. Nor can you use all four elements on high power at once. The pricey Gaggenau has only one element, and its controls took some getting used to. They also require cookware made of cast iron or enameled steel. Some stainless-steel cookware will work. Aluminum or copper will not. If a magnet attaches to it, it will work.
CR’s take: Induction cooktops were mostly impressive. If you are willing to overlook the kinks, induction provides excellent cooking performance. Otherwise, wait until its reliability is proven.
