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Important features Gas ranges

For all ranges
Nearly all now include a self-cleaning feature and—for gas models—sealed burners, which keep crumbs from falling beneath the cooktop. Spending more typically gets you a stainless-steel trim, a warming drawer, and six or more oven-rack positions. An especially useful feature: a raised edge around the cooktop to contain spills.

Oven controls are typically on the backsplash behind the elements or burners. Slide-in models eliminate the backsplash and side panels to blend into the countertop. You’ll also find lower-priced dual-fuel ranges that meld a gas cooktop with an electric oven. But even these typically cost hundreds more than electric- or gas-only ranges and haven’t improved performance in our tests.

A self-cleaning cycle uses high heat to burn off spills and splatters. An automatic door lock, found on most self-cleaning models, is activated during the cycle, then unlocks when the oven has cooled. Also useful is a self-cleaning countdown display, which shows the time left in the cycle.

Higher-priced models often include convection, which uses a fan and sometimes an electric element to circulate heated air. It can cut cooking time for large roasts, but you typically pay hundreds more for it. A few electric ovens have a low-power microwave feature that works with bake and broil elements to speed cooking time further. Some use a halogen heating bulb as well as microwaves. Another cooking technology, Trivection, uses thermal heating, convection, and microwaves to cut cooking time. Though very good overall, it’s very expensive.

A variable-broil feature in most electric ovens offers adjustable settings for foods that need slower or faster cooking. Ovens with 12-hour shutoff turn off automatically if you leave the oven on for that long. But most models let you disable it, while a child lockout lets you disable oven controls for safety.

Electronic touchpad controls are common, while a digital display makes it easier to set and monitor the precise temperature. A cook time/delay start lets you set a time for the oven to start and stop cooking, though you shouldn’t leave most foods in a cold oven for long. An automatic oven light typically comes on when the door opens, although some ovens have a switch-operated light. Also useful: a temperature probe you insert into meat or poultry to indicate doneness. Oven windows without a decorative grid usually offer the clearest view, though you may welcome the grid to hide pots and pans if you store them in the oven.

For gas ranges
Most gas ranges have four burners in three sizes, measured in British thermal units per hour (Btu/hr.): one or two medium-power burners (about 9,000 Btu/hr.); a small burner (about 5,000 Btu/hr.); and one or two large ones (about 12,500 Btu/hr. or more). We recommend a model with one or more 12,000 Btu/hr. burners for quick cooktop heating. Some have a fifth burner instead of a center island. Some burners automatically reignite. Look for models that use larger burners for higher heat, so you can tell at a glance which burner is which. Spending more often buys you a low-power simmer burner with an extra-low setting for delicate sauces (though other burners should be capable of simmering). Also useful: heavy porcelain-coated cast-iron or stainless-steel continuous grates that stand up to abuse and let you slide cookware between burners.

Pricier pro-style gas ranges have four or more brass or cast-iron burners with very high output (usually about 15,000 Btu/hr.), along with heavy stainless-steel construction and beefy grates and knobs. But these $4,000-to-$6,000-plus ranges are often outcooked by gas and electric ranges that cost thousands less. Pro-style brands such as Dacor and Viking have also proven repair-prone in our surveys.


HOW TO CHOOSE

Flexibility is the biggest reason to trade the usual range for a cooktop and wall oven. But while you can get an electric cooktop and wall oven for as little as $1,300 or so, you’ll find top-performing electric and gas ranges for less than half that amount. Some other shopping tips:

Consider your fuel. Electric elements tend to heat faster and maintain low heat better than gas burners. But a gas flame makes it easier to see the heat level. Either is capable of fine performance.

Consider your cooking. If you often cook for a crowd, look for at least one high-powered element or burner and a large oven. You’ll find more midpriced gas ranges with the ultrahigh heat once exclusive to professional-style stoves. High-heat burners can be useful for searing, stir-frying, or heating large quantities. Range and wall ovens that excelled in broiling produced well-seared, evenly cooked burgers in our tests.

Balance convenience and durability. Electric smoothtops are relatively easy to clean but require a special cleaner and can be damaged by dropped pots and sugary liquids. Coiltops are tougher, but they require more cleaning time.

Keep high-tech in perspective. Ranges with special baking modes may not outperform conventional models. While touchpad oven controls are more precise than knobs, front-mounted versions are easy to bump and reset by accident; be sure they’re well-placed and visible while cooking.