August 2007
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Cooking appliances
'Pro' doesn't deliver

GE Profile J2B918WEK
STYLISH CHEF   GE's Profile J2B918WEK, $1,900 in stainless, outcooked professional-style ranges and combines a gas cooktop with an electric oven.
Outsized stainless ranges from Thermador and Viking aren't the only pro-style appliances these days. Even wall ovens are moving upscale as other brands and gear climb the social ladder. But "pro" isn't necessarily a step up , as you'll see in our best range review.

Kenmore's Pro series ranges and wall ovens mark the manufacturer's latest venture into high-end design, with stainless construction and chunky controls. Sears says its new line adapts "the most desirable qualities of professional kitchen appliances to perfectly suit home cooks at a price that is right." Two new models we tested in this best range review performed well, though not without some repairs.

As for price, "right" doesn't mean lower. The $2,000 Pro 4100 wall oven costs the same as Sears' less-tony Kenmore Elites. But the 30-inch-wide, $4,000 Kenmore Pro 7952 dual-fuel range is priced as high as some 36-inch models.

Other cooking-appliance brands are pushing style and technology for less money as they strive for snob appeal. You'll also see more lower-priced induction cooktops, which offer quick heating using a magnetic field, ranges with built-in microwave ovens, and cooktops without the usual control knobs.

Our test cooking in this best range review included some 650 cups of popcorn, 700 pounds of beef, and 6,200 cookies. When we were done, we wound up with a smorgasbord of CR Quick Picks and Best Buys from among the gas and dual fuel and electric ranges, gas and electric cooktops, wall ovens, and over-the-range microwave ovens in our Ratings. Some other new models didn't live up to their brand reputations, however. And some of them delivered less than their names imply. Here are the details from our tests:
Consumer Reports Video
INSIDE CR TEST LABS
Ranges

Two pros break down. Sears' Kenmore ranges and wall ovens have proven reliable in our brand-repair surveys. But during this best range review, during this best range review, we had to call a Sears repairman to fix a malfunctioning oven-probe sensor on the new Kenmore Pro range and a bake-element short on the Pro wall oven we tested. The repairman handled the range problem on his first visit. But it took eight visits to fix our faulty wall oven.

Another pro proves mediocre. From its king-sized knobs to its beefy oven handle, Frigidaire's Professional PLGF659EC gas range looks like a $4,000 model at roughly half the price. Yet as with many pro-style ranges we've tested for best range review, cooktop performance for this model was merely middling. And while its 30-inch oven delivered impressive baking and broiling, it's surprisingly small.

A microwave steals space. Melding appliances seems like a clever way to cut clutter. The microwave drawer above the oven door on Sharp's $2,200 InsightPro KB-3425LS works well and leaves enough oven space to cook a 20-pound turkey. Just don't expect any room for the trimmings. What's more, the built-in microwave drawer pushes the oven cavity lower, making you bend farther down.

A cooktop gets complex. Bosch calls the touch controls on its $900 NET755 electric smoothtop "the most advanced technology on the market." But you'd better study the directions. Turning on a burner seemed simple enough--just hold your finger on the element icon. Once you select an element, however, you must quickly move to a second icon to set the power level, or you'll have to start over.