November 2007
How to choose
Have your old battery tested. Before you go shopping for a new battery, get your battery tested by a repair shop as part of an annual safety inspection.
It is particularly important to test your battery if it is more than two years old and you live in a warmer climate or four
years old and you live in a colder climate.
Know your battery size. Many cars, minivans, SUVs, and pickups use one of five common sizes of battery, with either side- or top-mounted terminals. It’s important to pick the correct size for your vehicle. The wrong size might not fit securely or might not provide sufficient power. Your car’s cables might not reach if you purchase a battery with terminals in the wrong place. Check your owner’s manual or in-store fit guide to get the right battery for your car.
Fresh is best. All batteries lose strength just sitting on the shelf, so it’s best to pick one no more than six months old. Most have a shipping code on the case. Some use a letter for the month (“A” for January) and a number for the year (“7” for 2007), and others use a numeric date, such as 1/07.
Insist on real-world performance. Along with good life-testing performance, choose a battery that scored well in our CCA and reserve capacity testing. Most batteries have proved to be at least adequate in both of those tests.
Look for a no-maintenance or sealed battery. With those, you don’t have to check or refill the electrolyte levels, as you must with models with inspection caps. Some batteries with caps also claim to be maintenance-free. All sealed and AGM batteries are maintenance-free.
A handle comes in handy. An attached plastic loop eases lifting and carrying. Because the average weight of our tested batteries is 40 pounds, this helps if you install or remove the battery yourself. All tested models have a loop except Interstate’s Mega-Tron Plus MTP-65 and Mega-Tron 11 MT-65.
Consider your climate and driving. Where and how you drive plays a large part in determining which battery is right for you. A battery that did well in our life testing is a good place to start, especially if you make a lot of short trips that don’t give your car’s alternator much time for recharging. Long life is also critical if you live in a warmer climate, where frequent high temperatures are very tough on batteries. High temperatures increase corrosion of plates inside your battery and more quickly vaporize the electrolyte that is needed for current.
Dispose of your old battery safely. Some retailers will install your new battery free of charge and will dispose of the old one for you. Check the installation cost before purchasing. Batteries are made up largely of toxic lead and acid but can easily be recycled. Most states require retailers to take old batteries in trade to keep the lead out of the waste stream. If you do the installation yourself, expect a small “core” charge, normally refundable when you bring in the old battery.
Know your battery size. Many cars, minivans, SUVs, and pickups use one of five common sizes of battery, with either side- or top-mounted terminals. It’s important to pick the correct size for your vehicle. The wrong size might not fit securely or might not provide sufficient power. Your car’s cables might not reach if you purchase a battery with terminals in the wrong place. Check your owner’s manual or in-store fit guide to get the right battery for your car.
Fresh is best. All batteries lose strength just sitting on the shelf, so it’s best to pick one no more than six months old. Most have a shipping code on the case. Some use a letter for the month (“A” for January) and a number for the year (“7” for 2007), and others use a numeric date, such as 1/07.
Insist on real-world performance. Along with good life-testing performance, choose a battery that scored well in our CCA and reserve capacity testing. Most batteries have proved to be at least adequate in both of those tests.
Look for a no-maintenance or sealed battery. With those, you don’t have to check or refill the electrolyte levels, as you must with models with inspection caps. Some batteries with caps also claim to be maintenance-free. All sealed and AGM batteries are maintenance-free.
A handle comes in handy. An attached plastic loop eases lifting and carrying. Because the average weight of our tested batteries is 40 pounds, this helps if you install or remove the battery yourself. All tested models have a loop except Interstate’s Mega-Tron Plus MTP-65 and Mega-Tron 11 MT-65.
Consider your climate and driving. Where and how you drive plays a large part in determining which battery is right for you. A battery that did well in our life testing is a good place to start, especially if you make a lot of short trips that don’t give your car’s alternator much time for recharging. Long life is also critical if you live in a warmer climate, where frequent high temperatures are very tough on batteries. High temperatures increase corrosion of plates inside your battery and more quickly vaporize the electrolyte that is needed for current.
Dispose of your old battery safely. Some retailers will install your new battery free of charge and will dispose of the old one for you. Check the installation cost before purchasing. Batteries are made up largely of toxic lead and acid but can easily be recycled. Most states require retailers to take old batteries in trade to keep the lead out of the waste stream. If you do the installation yourself, expect a small “core” charge, normally refundable when you bring in the old battery.
