Forums summary/FAQs, December 2005
JOHN'S TOOL BOX
Expert advice on auto maintenance and repair with CR auto mechanic John Ibbotson
The TOOL BOX is one of our most popular Forums, hosted by John, whose vast knowledge and hands-on experience with car-care is evident in every response. You'll find his consistent philosophy throughout: Preventive maintenance is a good investment and is almost always cheaper and safer than repair.
Please note: Diagnosing auto maintenance and repair problems from a distance is, at best, an imperfect art. We cannot be responsible for how you use the information we provide.
B)VEHICLE REPAIR
C)TROUBLE-SHOOTING
D)MISCELLANEOUS
ROUTINE MAINTENANCE
Fluids and filters
Air filters - K&N
Q. Wondering if K&N air and oil filters are worth it?
A. Unless you plan on making further performance modifications to your vehicle, stay with a factory- equivalent replacement part. You will most likely see little to no gain from the K&N, but you can wash and reuse the filter. If the idea of doing the cleaning instead of replacing the filter appeals to you, than you might consider one, but don't overlook that cleaning.
Coolant, green/red
Q. My car has red coolant in it. Is it OK to top it off with the green coolant?
A. Newer engines are designed with specific coolants in mind. Using a coolant other than the one specified, even to top it off, could cause gasket leaks and premature wear of parts. Use only what the factory recommends and you will be fine.
Coolant, Dexcool
Q. My car has Dexcool coolant. I have heard that this new type of coolant deteriorates the intake manifold gasket. Is this true?
A. Dexcool has been known to cause problems with engines not designed for it. If your engine was built with Dexcool in mind, you will have no problem with its continued use. Check your owner's manual for the recommended coolant.
Fuel filter, replacement interval
Q. When should I replace the fuel filter?
A. Fuel filters do last longer than they used to, especially with the introduction of plastic fuel tanks, as there is no rust. Check your owner's manual for recommended intervals. If you cannot find an interval, I would stick with changing it every 40-50,000 miles if you drive the car everyday. More often if the car sits around a lot.
Some manufacturers have designed vehicles that never require a fuel-filter change. The modern Toyota, for example, has the fuel filter built into the fuel tank, making access limited for most and dangerous for all. There are some Chrysler products that also have the fuel filter in the fuel tank. The fuel tank must be dropped in order to change it. Open fuel cells are always dangerous. Unless the fuel system has been exposed to debris of some kind, you never have to change the fuel filter.
Q. I have a car with 130,000 miles on it. My mechanic said that a fuel filter replacement was not necessary. Why would the owner's manual not specify a fuel filter change?
A. Newer cars have plastic fuel tanks and sealed systems. As a result fuel and fuel filters receive much less contamination than they used to. Less contamination means that fewer filter changes are needed. Still, 100,000 miles should be the maximum mileage allowed before a filter change. It is cheap insurance.
Fuel treatment/additives
Q. Have you ever heard of a fuel-saving device called a "Fuel Optimiser?" It is an oval plastic shell that contains magnets and clips over the fuel line. It supposedly "breaks apart clusters of fuel molecules so gas burns more efficiently." It sells for about $20.
A. We have heard of items like this, and my advice is simple. Stick to the proper fuel requirements for your car. Use a bottle of fuel-injector cleaner every other oil change, and keep to the manufacturer's recommended service intervals. Follow this and you will be fine.
Gas, best brand
Q. My car requires "premium" fuel. I have always heard that Amoco (now BP) is the very best of the best. Is there any truth to that?
A. Your car will respond just as well to Mobil, Texaco, or Sunoco as it will to BP. Fuel companies may add different chemical additives to their fuel, but it really all comes from the same place before it is distributed to them.
Gas, low octane
Q. On a recent trip across country, once I passed west into Kansas and Colorado I noticed the gas stations sold 85 Octane as regular unleaded, 87 as plus, and 89 as premium. What cars today can run on 85 octane? I thought the minimum was 87?
A. It is due to the altitude above sea level. The higher the altitude, the less octane required. A car that runs on 87 octane will run fine on 85 at higher altitudes.
Gas, premium fuel
Q. Most luxury and high performance autos recommend "premium fuel", but I have heard that they will run just fine on "regular fuel" and that the engine computer can adjust for the lower octane fuel. Is there a list of autos that will run on regular, when premium is recommended, or does one just have to experiment to find out?
A. Check your owner's manual. If only premium is specified it may not be safe to run regular for extended periods. You could damage the engine. If both types are listed, you can use regular, but be aware that you will get decreased performance, and possibly lower gas mileage.
Gas, "Top Tier"
Q. Reading up on gasoline quality, I've noticed a new standard for gasoline called "Top Tier Detergent Gasoline." Is it worthwhile to seek out gasoline that meets this new standard?
A. First, there is an EPA requirement that all manufacturers of gasoline and cars have agreed on. "Top Tier" appears to be primarily a marketing term. There are requirements to meet "Top Tier," but this does not mean that those who are not top tier do not meet such requirements. The bottom line is, you can safely purchase gasoline from any major brand station because the quality of the gasoline from all of them is very high.
Oil additives
Q. Are oil additives worth using?
A. I'm often asked if it is worth it spending money on oil additives such as Prolong, DuraLube, and ZMax? My answer is simple. Keep your money and be sure to change your oil on time.
Oil brands
Q. Does the brand of oil matter?
A. My suggestion on motor oil is straightforward. If you are using conventional motor oil, stick with the same brand, and adhere closely to the recommended interval in the owner's manual. If you are someone who does not make it in for oil changes on time, lives in a severe climate, or works the vehicle hard, use synthetic motor oil. With a synthetic, I would also stick to the manufacturer's recommended interval, because it is hard to determine exactly the conditions that will allow for extended use. Better safe than sorry. I can't express enough how cheap an oil change is compared to the damage that may be caused by it's not being changed.
Oil change in a stored vehicle
Q. I have a camper that I don't use all winter. I always change the oil just before storing it for the winter and weather permitting, I'll drive it for a few miles every other month or so in the winter. Should I change the oil when I take it out of storage or should I wait until I've driven 3,000 miles since the last oil change?
A. Moisture and fuel can get in the system from just sitting around, and from the short start ups. It is best to warm the engine up completely and then change the oil when you take it out of storage to remove any moisture and fuel from the engine.
Oil-change interval
Q. Is a shorter oil change interval better?
A. If you drive short trips and do not put a lot of miles on your car, you will want to do better than the normal scheduled interval, maybe as often as 3,000 miles. The same applies if you travel dirt back roads, have a lot of up and downhill driving, or live in an extremely hot, cold or wet climate. However, if you drive you car 30-40 minutes each way to work everyday, or drive the car many miles per year, you will be fine staying with the manufacturer's recommended oil-change interval.
I do not recommend exceeding that interval. It's always better to stay on the safe side. Oil changes are one of the biggest factors in the longevity of your vehicle. Don't skimp here.
Oil filter, best
Q. Who makes the best oil filters?
A. It has been some time since our last oil-filter test, but if you stick with a major brand, like WIX or Fram, which meets or exceeds original equipment specs, you will be just fine. Most important is changing your oil on time and using the proper viscosity of oil.
Oil filter, change
Q. Should I change the oil filter each time I change the oil?
A. Some manufacturers differentiate between filter changes and oil changes. Honda for example sometimes specifies 7,500-mile oil changes and 15,000-mile filter changes. Oil filters cost on average about $6-$7. Don't chance it over such a minimal amount of money. Change the filter every time and rest easy.
Oil filter, quality
Q. I have been checking different sites and found a lot of confusion on the quality of different oil filters. I own a new Toyota Sienna. Is it imperative that I use the Toyota filter?
A. You do not need to use the original equipment oil filter. I use WIX filters and am very happy with them, but any reputable brand will be fine. It is more important to change oil as per the recommended schedule and to replace the filter with each oil change.
Oil filter, remote system
Q. Why do they mount oil filters upside down so they leak all over the place when you change them? Are those adapters, which remotely locate the filter worthwhile, safe and easy to install?
A. Although it can be a hassle getting oil everywhere from an "upside down" filter, I recommend not using a remote system. The engines and their oiling components are designed to work as a system, and to change one thing could cause a problem elsewhere.
Oil, high-mileage
Q. Are the new high-mileage oils designed for older cars worth the extra money?
A. Conventional motor oils have proven more than adequate when changed on time, even in high mileage motors. I would stick with what you have been using, and don't skimp on oil changes. If you do decide to use a high-mileage oil, it can be mixed with conventional motor oil to top it off.
Oil-level check
Q. What is the correct time to take a dipstick reading for the correct oil level in the sump? Is it when the engine has just been turned off, when it has sat for a while and the engine is still warm, or when the engine is cold?
A. The best time is when the engine is cold, or when it has sat for a while. You are looking for the oil to be in the safe zone. Do not be concerned with it sitting exactly on the full line, but it should be close to it.
Oil sump over-fill
Q. When I got my car back from the mechanic, the oil was a bit over the full mark. Is this a problem?
A. The full line on any vehicle is the max. There is a little room for error, but not much. Exactly how much varies from vehicle to vehicle. If your vehicle is significantly over-full I would ask him to fix it. There is no sense in taking a chance due to the carelessness.
Oil, synthetic
Q. Our car spec calls for synthetic motor oil. A local shop suggested 5w-20. Both are more expensive. Will the warranty be compromised if these oils are not used?
A. Some manufacturers have started using a 5W-20 synthetic blend motor oil in some of their newer cars. I would stick with what they recommend. It is more expensive, but the cost is minimal if it will protect the motor properly.
Quick Lube
Q. Are quick-lube places OK to use?
A. I personally feel a local garage or dealer is a better place to have your oil changed. In general they take a little more time and care with your car. When it is up on the lift they will check for any problems. They do charge accordingly, though. My thought in this area is that you get what you pay for. There is a reason why quick-lube places can do an oil change for as little as $15. A car is a major investment. Don't skimp here.
Quick Lube, recycled oil?
Q. Do quick-lube places use recycled oil?
A. I do not know of any quick-lube places that use recycled oil. Recycled oil is used to heat commercial buildings. They are not putting it in your car. The quality of the quick-lube oil is fine. Just make sure they are using the correct weight of oil.
Transmission filter, fluid change
Q. When should the automatic transmission filter and fluid be replaced?
A. Many car manuals are unclear on transmission filter changes. Some manufacturers recommend 60,000 miles. Others recommend 30,000 miles. My thoughts on this subject are similar to oil changes. Too much is always better than too little. I feel that 30,000 miles is an excellent time to change the fluid and filter, unless the manufacturer specifies sooner. It is cheap insurance compared to the cost of a new transmission.
Normally, draining and refilling the transmission allows for only 4-5 quarts of transmission fluid to be removed and replaced out of the 8-15 quarts that are in the transmission. So frequent changes are better. Some shops offer a power-flush service, which allows for all of the fluid to be "forced" out under pressure. After the flush stage a cleaning fluid is forced into the transmission under pressure and automatically drained. Then all the fluid is replaced. Some transmissions such as the Toyota family do not have filters--there is nothing more than a screen.
Transmission fluid, owner's manual recommendations
Q. My owner's manual "highly recommends" that I use the manufacturer's name-brands of transmission fluid, brake fluid, engine coolant and oil. Would using another brand really compromise the performance of my car as my manual seems to maintain?
A. It is very important to make sure the automatic transmission fluid it is correct, so following the manual's recommendations is good advice. For the motor oil, brake fluid, and coolant, aftermarket fluids are just fine.
Windshield de-icer
Q. Can Prestone yellow de-icer be mixed in the windshield washer reservoir with the standard blue de-icer?
A. Yes, you can mix the products, but the stronger of the two will be weakened.
Intervals between changes
Common replacement intervals
Q. In general, what are typical replacement intervals (in miles) for the following items: brake pads/shoes and rotors/drums, mufflers, tires, wiper blades, halogen headlights.
A. There are many variables involved, but these numbers are typical:
These are only approximate intervals. Different driving habits and patterns may change the outcome.
Dealer service vs. local shop
Q. Is dealer service better?
A. Generally, you will pay more for the work at the dealership than a local repair shop. The advantages of going to the dealer are that they will have OEM parts for your car, and often provide extras such as a loaner car. My suggestion is to stay with the dealer if it is not putting a strain on your wallet. A good relationship with the service department goes a long way. Also, if you have good experience with a certain technician, ask for that individual by name when you bring your car in for repair.
I am not saying smaller repair shops or oil change places are bad, but in my experience you seem to get a little more personal care from a dealer. If you are happy somewhere, don't jump around. If something was to go wrong with a previous repair you know where to head instead of trying to figure out who was responsible.
Engine break-in
Q. What is the best way to break in my new engine?
A. You should drive the car normally, but here are some don'ts for the first 500 miles. Do not drive at sustained highway speeds. Vary the rpm's. Do not tow or carry heavy loads. Do not pull up steep hills. Do not race the engine or pull high rpm's. That should be a good start. Sometimes your owner's manual will have additional comments.
Maintenance interval, dealer recommendation
Q. My dealer specifies a list of 15K-mile service steps (every 15K) that are not in the owner's manual. Are they worth it anyway? They include extra inspections, lubrication of minor items, tire rotation, and radiator cleaning. The cost is $179.
A. Remember, preventative maintenance is the key to the longevity of your car. I do not think it is a bad idea at all to get those things done. The price is fair, but if you can buy the parts and do it yourself, you can save quite a bit and have a little more peace of mind.
Maintenance interval, high mileage
Q. What is the maintenance interval beyond 60,000 miles?
A. If you look in your owner's manual you will see a pattern in the repair intervals. Just keep following those intervals. For instance, if the timing-belt replacement is due at 80,000 miles, it should be done again at 160,000 miles. One thing to remember, on an older car chances are higher that you will break down or have trouble with it. If you begin to notice something wrong, bring it in for a checkup or repair. Don't wait till it breaks. You will thank yourself later.
Maintenance interval, low-mileage car
Q. I have an older car that has only 50,000 miles on it. It is in excellent condition. I drive it frequently, but only average 2,500 miles per year. What should my maintenance schedule be?
A. You need to change your oil every three months. Try to keep the fuel tank as close to full as possible, and if the opportunity presents itself, periodically take a long trip of an hour or so.
Maintenance interval, miles or months
Q. The maintenance schedule for my car says things like "5,000 miles or 4 months". I assume this means whichever comes first, so if I drive less than 5,000 miles a year, I should go by months, not miles. Is this correct?
A. You are absolutely correct. Use the time interval and not the mileage.
"Maintenance required" light
Q. My "maintenance required" light came on. When I went to a shop they checked it, and told me that the system read that nothing was wrong. Do you have any idea what could be the problem?
A. The "maintenance-required" light and the "check-engine" light are two different things. When they checked your car, they were probably only looking for things that would trigger the check-engine light. If you look in your owner's manual, it will explain why the maintenance light comes on, and what to do. Many times the light comes on at a set interval to make you aware of certain things the car may need. The owner's manual will also tell you how to reset the light if you have already performed the required maintenance.
Maintenance, too much?
Q. I am confused by the dealer's maintenance schedule. The dealer recommends many more items for each mileage interval than the owner's manual. Who is right?
A. If you drive the car everyday for at least 30 miles, go by the book. Many of the things the dealer is adding are probably just inspection, and may be overkill with a price to match. While all the things they are suggesting might not be a bad idea to check, you may do better somewhere else.
Radiator, hose replacement interval
Q. On an older car can I wait 10 years, and who knows how many miles, or should I replace the parts at a predetermined mileage?
A. For best results the fluid should be changed every two years. The hoses should be changed every 4 years. The radiator only needs to be replaced as needed. Most times, if the fluids are changed and the vehicle is kept clean, the radiator will last a very long time.
Washing and cleaning
Wash, engine
Q. Many coin-operated sprayer car washes have an engine-wash setting. I've been wondering if there is any danger in spraying a hot engine with an aluminum head with the cold water from these sprayers?
A. I do see a danger in spraying a hot engine with cold water. If you are going to degrease or clean your engine compartment, my suggestion is to let is cool first, or do not do it. There are other risk factors with the engine compartment. If certain items such as computers and distributors are not properly sealed, you could do more harm than good. If you have not performed this job before, it may be worth it to send it to a professional detail shop and have them handle it.
Wash, undercarriage
Q. I went to the beach this past weekend and I have a lot of salt water spots on my car. I will wash the car to make sure it does not eat through my paint and the finish. However, I was wondering if I should try to wash the undercarriage of the car.
A. Just go ahead and wash down the underside of your car. There is nothing under there that will be harmed. The chassis is normally exposed to the elements. Just make sure the pressure on the hose is not so great that it might knock a hose off, or pull hard on any wiring.
Wash/polish, acid-rain protectant
Q. I would like to know if there is any advantage to having acid rain protectant applied to my new car's finish. I am not able to garage my car for protection from the weather.
A. If you wax your car 3 to 4 times per year, I see no advantage to spending the money. If you very rarely wax your car, it may be worth it, but it doesn't last forever. The best thing to do is take care of the paint yourself with proper cleaning and waxing.
Wash/polish, how-to
Q. Do you recommend a specific brand of car wash product? I plan on doing it the "old-fashioned" way; just a sponge and a bucket, no power washer.
A. I like to use a liquid car wash. I think most of them are fine. I do not believe, however, in using a car wash that contains wax. Do that it two separate steps.
Wash-polish-shine products
Q. To keep the dash and tires shiny, is something like "Armor all" sufficient, or is there a better product out there?
A. I think as far as "shine" products go, they all get the job done well. It becomes a matter of personal taste based on the results. Some have more shine; others leave a duller finish.
Wash/polish, spray wax
Q. When I go to the local car wash, I often wonder if I'm just wasting my time and money using the spray wax. Does this stuff actually work?
A. Washing and waxing should be done in two steps, preferably by hand. The car washes spray a water and wax solution on your car and it does leave some of it on the paint, but it also leaves it on your windshield, the wipers and everything else that does not need to be waxed. The result is nowhere near as good as doing it yourself. I feel it is not worth the money.
Wash/polish, tree sap
Q. I have tree sap from a pine all over my hood. I have tried all the products on the market but none seem to remove the pine sap. Any ideas?
A. This is a tough one and even the body shop we deal with does not have a cure-all. The best way we have found is to use a professional automotive paint-prep solvent and rags. Soak the sap and wipe, but don't let the solvent sit too long or you could ruin the paint.
It will take several attempts to let the solvent break down the sap enough to be wiped. Every time you wipe the sap, some will be removed and some will spread. Just continue till it is gone, then buff the area with a compound and finally, wax. This can be time consuming and tricky. If you do not feel comfortable working with these chemicals, consult your local body shop.
Wash, winter
Q. Is it recommended to wash the road salt off your vehicle when the temperature outside is below freezing?
A. Wait until it is above freezing to get the job done. But the sooner you can get to it the better.
Washing after applying wax
Q. A couple of weeks ago, I applied a coat of cleaner/wax to my car. If I take it to the local car wash when it gets dirty, will that remove the wax? Or should I just wash the car myself?
A. A good wax should not wash off immediately, but detergents will affect it. If you wash the car yourself you can control the amount of detergent that you use. Unless the car is a mess, a few drops should suffice. If you use a car wash you may need to wax more frequently.
Miscellaneous maintenance
Battery went dry
Q. My car is 4 or 5 years old, and wouldn't start. The battery had completely dried out. We added distilled water and hooked it up to the charger and now it's showing fully charged. Is it OK or should I buy a new battery?
A. Definitely get a new battery. You might be OK for a short while, but why take a chance on getting stranded.
Brake fluid flush or change
Q. My understanding is that brake fluid needs to be changed or flushed every two years, because brake fluid absorbs water over time. Will the calipers and brake pistons be corroded if flushing was not done?
A. If the fluid was changed at regular intervals then flushing is not necessary.
Fuel injection, cleaning
Q. Is dealer fuel-injection cleaning useful?
A. If you are experiencing problems, the system the dealerships and garages use is much more effective than the cleaner in a bottle. If you have never used a cleaner in the fuel tank of your vehicle and want to have it cleaned, it may be worth it to pay the extra money and let the dealer do it. After that I would run a bottle of cleaner in the tank about every other oil change.
If you are not having any problems with your car, start running fuel-injection cleaner in the fuel tank every other oil change and don't spend the extra for the dealer's cleaning system. The cleaner you put in the tank will cost you about $4 to $5 each.
Headlights
Q. Is there anything one can do about condensation in headlights?
A. Headlight condensation means that somehow water has infiltrated the housings and cannot get out. The solution is to get the moisture out and seal any cracks or leaks. If your lights have covers, take them off and dry out the interior. If they are sealed, take out the bulbs. To do the drying you can use a hair dryer, or park the car in the sun.
You may need new seals, or you may have a crack. Cracks that do not interfere with the light can be sealed with silicon sealer. If the cracks are not repairable you will have to replace the light assembly.
The bad news is most of the time these tricks do not work. Give it a couple tries, but if water continues to come back, replace the light.
Spark plugs, best
Q. What are the best spark plugs?
A. If your vehicle is stock, stick with the original equipment plugs and wires. The manufacturer goes through a lot of effort to find the right plug and wire combination for that engine.
Most of the "trick" or "high-performance" plugs are pure hype. Platinum plugs do seem to last longer than standard plugs, but I have found no difference in engine power. There are plenty of people who say "I installed brand-X plugs in my car and they are great". This may be true, but it is mainly due to the fact that they put in new plugs, and not that they are better than stock.
Spark plugs, wires
Q. Are fatter spark plug wires better?
A. As far as spark plug wires go, in general, the larger the diameter (usually in mm), the better the fire. This is because there is less resistance and more insulation. But there are 7mm wires that will out perform 8mm wires strictly because of the quality of the materials used and their ability to conduct the spark.
Timing belt, chain
Q. What's the difference between a timing belt and timing chain?
A. Both serve the same function in rotating the camshaft. A chain is more expensive to produce and repair but it lasts longer. A belt is quieter and cheaper to produce but it is prone to breakage. Timing belts need to be changed every 60,000 miles or so.
Timing belt, replacement
Q. What if a the timing belt is not changed on time? What problems will this lead to?
A. If you do not change the belt on time, you run the risk of it breaking. If the belt breaks, it will allow the valves to make contact with the pistons. At a minimum, you will need to have the heads redone, a $1,500-$3,000 job. Potentially, the entire motor will need to be replaced. That can cost $3,000-$5,000.
Timing belt warning
Q. My car has a timing belt warning. Is this important?
A. Getting the timing belt changed on time is critical. They usually run around $300 at a shop, but the cost is minimal compared to the damage that can be caused when they do break. Just about all timing belts will break with out any warning. There is usually no telltale sign. My suggestion is to get this done on schedule and you won't need to worry about it again for another 60-90 thousand miles (depending on your recommended interval).
Transmission, Constant Velocity (CVT)
Q. The car I am considering only comes with a CVT. What kind of maintenance can I expect for this new technology and what kind of reliability can I expect?
A. Constant Velocity Transmissions generally have fewer parts to fail, and maintenance is not much different than a multi-speed transmission. Heat is the leading cause of failure in this type of transmission.
Window tinting
Q. I am removing the window tinting from my car. I have removed the tinting film, but how do I remove the residual adhesive?
A. Use window cleaner and a razor blade. If the glue you have is too strong for the window cleaner, try the chemical cleaner that body shops use to prep paint. You can buy it at an auto supply house.
Wiper refills vs. blade replacements
Q. The guys at the auto parts store tell me that wiper refills will not restore wiper performance to factory-new quality, that you should replace the entire blade. Blades are three times more expensive. What do you recommend?
A. New blades are the better way to go. Refills do not always restore a perfect wipe. The joints tend to wear on the arms and the refills do not compensate for it.
VEHICLE REPAIR
ABS warning light
Q. The ABS light has come on in the dashboard, but my brakes are fine. I have no problem with them. Why would it come on? I don't want to be taken advantage of when I go in to have it repaired or checked.
A. When the ABS (antilock brake system) light is on, the system is usually disabled. The car will stop as usual under normal braking conditions, but in a panic stop the anti-lock feature will not be there to help you. Brakes are the most important part of the car and ABS helps significantly in an emergency situation. We advise immediate attention.
There are several reasons why the light could be on. The only way to tell is by diagnosing the ABS system with a scan tool. I understand your concern as to cost. Ask for a quote. If it seems out of line it may be worth a second opinion.
Air-bag warning light
Q. Several weeks after purchase of our new car, the air-bag warning light came on intermittently. Subsequently, after about a month, it stayed on continuously. I am not anxious to replace the air bag, but I would like to get the light off.
A. If the light is on, your air bag may not deploy properly. You need to get it to the dealer. Just because the air bag light is on, does not mean that the air bag needs replacement. The most common cause is a defective sensor or switch. Both are inexpensive to replace. Be safe and get this looked at as soon as possible.
Air conditioner, R12
Q. My AC uses R12. Will it continue to be available?
A. Freon R12 is not environmentally friendly and has been replaced in newer cars by R134a. There are a few shops that still have R12, but you will have to look hard. It is expensive--you can figure on anywhere from $100-$250 per pound. The average car will need about 1.5 pounds.
There is an alternative. The process for converting to R134a has come a long way, and vehicles can be swapped over for roughly the same price as having them refilled with R12. The performance differences are minimal if any. If you plan on keeping your car, have it converted. Then you will know that if a problem arises later, there will be no trouble having it serviced. Talk to your local garage or dealership and see what they can do for you. Things are changing all the time with the refrigerants.
Q. My trusty older car's air conditioning needs servicing. The shop recommended conversion from the existing R-12 to an R-134a system, claiming it's better for the environment and "will save money on future A/C services". Is this true, and is $450 reasonable?
A. If you plan on keeping the car for any period of time, converting to R134A is recommended. When they service the A/C they should take care of any leaks in the system. Their claim of "better for the environment" and "will save money on future repairs" is true. You may also want to talk to the dealer or A/C repair specialist to get a second opinion on the price of the conversion. The $450 quote seems high.
Alignment
Q. Just what is an alignment? How do I know when I need one without waiting for the signs to show up in the tires?
A. An alignment determines how straight the wheels are in relation to the car. If they are not set to the factory specifications, the car will generally wear tires unevenly, or may pull when driving. Alignment should be done whenever the tires are wearing unevenly, if the vehicle pulls to one side, and/or when new tires are put on a car. Improper tire pressure can cause these problems as well. This link illustrates some specifics: www.justtires.com/services/wheelTerms.html .
Belt terminology
Q. What's the difference between drive belts, timing belts, and micro-V belts?
A. Drive belts are the belts that turn all the accessories on your engine such as the water pump, alternator, power steering pump and AC compressor.
Timing belts are cogged belts that most commonly drive your camshaft, but in some cases also drive the oil pump, water pump and balancer shafts. These belts are usually hidden behind covers and require a substantially longer time to replace than drive belts. Normally they do not need replacement untill 60,000 - 90,000 miles.
V-belts are a type of drive belt. They are triangular in shape, and are often found on older cars. There are typically 2-3 belts of this type in a well equipped car.
Newer cars have serpentine belts, another style of drive belt. Typically, just one of these will run all the accessories on an engine. These are flat and usually have 4-6 ribs on the drive surface.
Brake and steering-fluid flush
Q. My mechanic says that my brake and power steering fluids are "discolored" and need to be flushed. Is this necessary?
A. Flushing these fluids is a good idea and you should have it done, especially in the case of the brakes.
Brake pads
Q. Is it worth it to buy special brake pads like Wagner Thermoquiet or Apex Kevlar?
A. The best way to go is to always use original equipment pads. If that is not an option, I have had very good luck using ceramic aftermarket pads.
Brake pads, ceramic/non-ceramic
Q. What brake pads should I use, ceramic/non-ceramic?
A. My feeling on brake pads for a stock vehicle is that if the original equipment pads served you well, go with them again. Many times, changing to something other than OE (original equipment) pads, will cause you to run into problems, such as noise or excessive dusting.
Brakes, improving
Q. What's the best way to provide a significant reduction in braking distance?
A. Installing a set of high-performance pads is a cost effective way to improve braking distance. Remember though, every change from stock will have an effect that may not be desirable. The most common thing with high performance pads is that either the pad will wear out very quickly and cause heavy amounts of brake dust to collect on your wheels, or you will get premature wear of the brake rotors. If you can live with this, it is probably the best way to go.
Other modifications such as slotted or crossed-drilled rotors will offer no advantage other than better looks for a street-driven vehicle. Lighter wheels will help, but the difference will be so small that it is not worth the major expense of wheel replacement.
Brakes, uneven pad wear
Q. My inside brake pad is down to almost nothing while the outside pad is almost new. Does this mean the calipers are bad?
A. The calipers are not sliding properly. Many brake calipers have a single-piston design. When the caliper is working correctly, the piston moves out and applies pressure to the inside pad which then moves the entire caliper against the outside pad. If the caliper sticks, pressure is applied only against the inside pad. Check the caliper. Clean and lubricate the slide points with the proper high-temperature lubricant. If any of the slides or parts of the caliper are worn or pitted, install new calipers, including pads and hardware.
Brakes, where to repair
Q. Where should I get my brakes repaired?
A. The dealer is always your best bet to maintain original performance, though this is not always the cheapest route. If you choose not to use the dealer, make sure the garage uses brand name parts like NAPA or Wagner.
Check-engine light
Q. My check-engine light stays on. Is it OK to ignore it if the car is running fine?
A. A check-engine light indicates that something is going wrong in the car's computer management system or with the emissions controls. It could be as simple as a loose gas cap or it may be something like an oxygen sensor. When the check-engine light comes on, a retrievable code is saved. Bring your car in and have it diagnosed on a scan tool to determine the cause of the problem. If your mechanic does not have the proper scan tool to diagnose the problem, you may want to try somewhere else.
CV boot cracks
Q. I just discovered that I have a cracked CV boot. What are the possible causes for this problem?
A. At early mileage, the most likely cause is hitting something in the road. On an older car it is aging of the rubber. When the boot cracks, the grease inside can then get thrown by centrifugal force and water can be let in from the rain and wet roads. Lack of grease or water in the joint can cause wear and tear on the joint that the boot protects. The car will not break down from driving the way it is, but keep driving to a minimum until it is fixed.
Q. My CV boots are cracked and it will cost a lot to replace them. Is it worth fixing them, and what will happen if I don't?
A. When the boots split, the grease inside is thrown out by centrifugal force. It then ends up all over the engine and, in some cases, on the brake components. The loss of lubricant will ruin the CV (constant velocity) axle joint requiring a new or rebuilt axle. Most boot replacements are to the outer boots, as they take the most abuse. The cost should be $80.00 - $90.00 per axle. Some shops have a quick boot system for quick/inexpensive replacement, but complete replacement is preferable.
Diagnostic codes
Q. Why won't the dealer give me the diagnostic codes?
A. Dealerships usually do not provide codes to the owner. This is mainly because the codes can be ambiguous without further diagnosis. For instance, if you received a code for an EGR valve failure it may not be the EGR valve. It could be the vacuum to the EGR, heavy deposits below the EGR, or a controller failure for the EGR.
If the manufacturer were to display the code, say for an EGR valve failure, the average consumer would probably run out, buy an EGR valve and replace it. Then, when the problem was not resolved, blame would fall on the computer diagnostics.
Diagnostic codes are only the beginning of solving a problem and that is where a good, skilled technician comes into play. Most dealerships now record anything that has gone wrong with a vehicle on their system. The information is shared with other dealers to help identify and solve common problems. By being reluctant to divulge the codes, dealers and garages are really not hiding anything. Their goal is to repair what is really wrong (and they should tell you what it was).
Dog scratches
Q. A dog scratched the door of my new car with its paws/nails. Most seem to be on the surface. Do you have any advice regarding buffing out the scratches?
A. Start with a polishing compound and see how well the scratches rub out. If the scratches go deeper, move to a rubbing compound. If that still does not remove them, it may be worth a trip to a body shop to see if they can get them out.
Engine code reader/analyzer
Q. I am interested in purchasing an engine analyzer/code reader to help me locate and repair problems on my car. What would you suggest I look for?
A. Almost any OBD II-compliant reader will be fine for the basics. The main clue to solving problems is the code. From there you can do an Internet search and find test procedures and possible causes for a code. The more money you spend, the more information you will get, but you have to weigh that against your knowledge of modern computer systems, the number of times you'll use it, and the cost of getting the car repaired at a garage. You can buy a very simple device for OBD II applications for about $100 and, and for home use, you will probably be happy. You can go WAY beyond that. A full-featured device, that can do recording, is at least $600-$800 or more.
Exhaust-system repairs
Q. What's the best place to get exhaust-system repairs?
A. Your regular mechanic or muffler shop should be more than capable of dealing with a repair properly. Let them know you are looking to get the work done in the most cost efficient but proper way, so that it will last. Ask if they can show you what needs to be repaired when the car is in the air being inspected. This will force the shop to show you the damage and give you a better explanation as to why it costs what it does. If you feel the price is too high, you may want to get a quote from another shop.
You should replace all the pipes that are perforated or rusted through. There may be other parts that need to be replaced, depending on the location of welding joints, and on what can be saved.
Gasoline line repair
Q. My car is now about 15 years old and my gas line has a tiny pinhole leak. Can a rubber line be used instead of steel?
A. If it is a metal line you are replacing, it should be replaced with a metal line that has been flared and reconnected to the best part of the old fuel line. I do not recommend that it be replaced with a rubber fuel line. If you do use rubber, it should be double-clamped using fuel-injection clamps and a fuel-injection hose no more than 6 inches long. If you are repairing a plastic line, there are special repair parts that can be purchased at any major auto parts store.
Grease fittings
Q. My new car does not have grease fittings on the chassis. Should I have these installed or am I "good to go"?
A. Most cars within the last ten years have stopped using grease fittings. The parts all handle 100,000 + miles just fine. The materials and tolerances are much better today, and it is just not necessary. So, yes, you are good to go.
Rotor, early wear
Q. My car has only 25K miles on it. The brake pads are still in good shape, but my front rotors need turning and the rears need to be replaced. Everything is original. Is this normal?
A. It is not normal. If the rotors are worn too thin and are scarred, I would ask for the rotors to be replaced under warranty. You will probably have to pay for the pads. If your dealer balks, it might not be a bad idea to get a second opinion. Maybe there is another dealer close enough who is willing to do a little more for you.
Shock absorbers leaking-replace?
Q. All 4 shocks on my vehicle are leaking fluid. Should I replace them, and what factors should I consider when choosing replacements?
A. To answer your first question, yes, you should definitely replace them. Be sure to replace all four at the same time. I never recommend changing just the front or just the rear. The vehicle was designed as a system and all four corners work together to give the vehicle good handling.
Second question, we have not done any formal testing of shocks recently, but go with a well-known brand name. I have always had good luck with Monroe, but there are others that work well. Most companies make several lines of shocks tailored to your needs, such as heavy-duty shocks, or ride-comfort-type shocks. A local auto parts store such as Napa can explain the different styles they carry, and their benefits.
Signal lights
Q. My signal lights blink fast on one side. Should I replace the flasher?
A. If it is flashing faster on one side it is probably not the flasher. Normally there is one flasher that controls both sides. If it is at fault it usually affects both sides. Turn on the faulty signal side and look at every light that comes on. Mark them down if you have to. Often, the manufacturers have a small side light in the system or two bulbs side by side, and one can be easily overlooked. If all appear to work, check the individual bulbs, beginning with the last bulb replaced. Check to see that each bulb is the correct wattage for that socket, and check all grounds.
Spark plugs
Q. Should I replace my factory-original spark plugs with iridium spark plugs? What benefits should I expect to see?
A. The original factory plugs are specifically designed with your engine in mind. Most aftermarket plugs are a "this-fits-all" design. Today's spark plugs are excellent, and last a long time. I see no worthwhile gain from expensive alternatives.
Struts
Q. One of my struts has failed. Can I just replace it with a used one?
A. Struts should always be replaced in pairs. Typically when two are shot, they all are. I am not a big fan of used struts and highly recommend new ones. This will put your car back to the original level of performance. Cars are designed as a system. If you sacrifice in this area it will have an effect on safety. This is the only way to get it done properly.
Suspension, modifying
Q. We sometimes carry around a lot of cargo, pushing, and sometimes even exceeding, the stated load limit on our vehicle. My dealer suggests installing heavy-duty springs. An independent alignment shop suggests installing air-adjustable shocks. Would those actually increase the load capacity?
A. Air shocks may level the ride, but I do not recommend them. The manufacturer sets a limit on the vehicle with careful consideration as to how much the vehicle can carry. The load capacity of your vehicle also has to do with how safely it can pull the load without putting strain on the drive train, and how well the vehicle can safely stop with the load you are carrying. If you exceed the capacity of your vehicle, the only proper way to remedy the situation is to move to a vehicle that can safely and properly carry the load you intend to haul.
Transmission seal leak
Q. The transmission seals on my car are starting to leak. I was going to try a can of a stop- leak product but the owner's manual says that it is serviceable by the dealer. Am I at the mercy of the dealership?
A. Stop-leak products can cause more harm than good. Your best bet is going to be a transmission shop, or the dealer.
Wheel alignment and balancing
Q. Should wheel alignment and balancing be performed whenever the tires are rotated? If not, how often should the wheels be aligned and balanced?
A. The wheels should be aligned whenever the tires are replaced with new ones. If your tires are wearing unevenly and it is not due to improper tire inflation, then alignment should be done right away. Balancing does not need to be done unless you are having problems with wheel vibration.
Wheel rim, cracked
Q. I have a wheel that is leaking air due to a cracked rim. I was given three options: buy a new rim; have the rim repaired; go to the junkyard. Is repairing the rim a good option, or should I just buy a new rim? I wouldn't trust my ability to buy a safe rim from a yard.
A. If you are not sure you can get a good rim from the salvage yard, a new rim is your best bet. There are companies that can repair a wheel properly and some who can't. Most wheel repair companies do a good job of straightening lips on rims when they are bent, but because yours is cracked, I would avoid it altogether. Your safety is at stake. Go with the new rim.
Windshield repair
Q. Do professional repairs made to windshields using acrylic resin last?
A. We have had many of our test vehicle windows repaired when they were chipped. The repairs have been good but not perfect. If a chip is in your line of vision I would replace the windshield because you will always know it is there. Finally, if there is a crack or potential crack I would not waste your time with repairing it either.
Windshield scratches
Q. Can windshields be polished to remove scratches or is it better to replace the windshield?
A. Light scratches can be removed with a little abrasive toothpaste and a soft cloth. For heavier scratches, replacement is recommended.
TROUBLE-SHOOTING
Automatic transmission slippage
Q. My automatic transmission slips. What can I do?
A. Many times when a transmission slips between gears it is due to a clutch band. Normally these can be adjusted. On some, the adjustment is external and can be done quickly. Other transmissions need to have the fluid drained and must be worked on from the inside. This is usually not a major repair, but it is something you should bring to either a transmission shop or the dealer. This is something that should be taken care of right away. If you wait, you are less likely to save the transmission. I feel it is well worth having it looked at before deciding to get rid of the car.
Bad smell from A/C
Q. I have a strong vinegar smell coming from my A/C when it is blowing. I have heard a "kitty litter" smell could develop from bacteria inside the A/C. Is there something I could pour or squirt into the vents or through some other opening.
A. We have not done any testing on any products, but your local auto parts store should be able to help you out. You also might try Lysol--some subscribers report good results.
Battery won't keep charge
Q. I use my car approximately 30 miles a month. The stock battery seems to have difficulty maintaining a charge under these conditions. I have been contemplating installing an Optima "Red Top," but at the going price of $140 each, I want to know if it is worth the extra cash.
A. If your car sits for long periods of time, the best thing to do is get a triple charger for it. They are inexpensive (around $25-$35) and work well.
Car batteries have a constant drain on them from all the accessories and computers in the car. The batteries are not designed to be run low and then quickly charged back up. Every time this is done it shortens the battery's life. It is possible that the Optima is better than what you have, but it might not solve your problem.
Brakes lock up
Q. What would cause the brakes to lock up and not release?
A. Check the rubber brake hoses. They are just as important as the rest of the braking system and are often overlooked by people who perform the work themselves. The hoses deteriorate from the inside and then cause a clog. Normal brake pedal pressure is enough to get the fluid to pass and get the pistons to clamp down on the brakes, but there may not be enough back-force to release them.
Catalytic converter rattles
Q. I have a rattle in my catalytic converter. Is this a problem?
A. If the noise is coming from the inside of your converter there are broken pieces inside the converter. These can shift around and cause a loss of power or shut the car off altogether. Also, under this condition your catalytic converter is not working to its full potential. You can live with the noise, but it can also lead to more problems down the road.
A catalytic converter can be expensive. If the cost is more than you want to spend right now, then you can keep going until you have a problem or you fail to pass emissions testing. The choice is yours. If you do not want to have to worry about it and can afford a new converter, then I would go for it.
Computer analyzer
Q. I have seen ads for a computer analyzer that can increase engine horse power, or reduce horsepower and increase gas mileage by doing something to the on-board computer. Do these devices work as advertised?
A. Typically, with devices like this you will sacrifice power for fuel economy or vice versa. Most often the changes are minimal. But if you live in an emissions-testing state, this may not be a good idea. Save your money.
Fan belt noise
Q. I recently replaced the Serpentine belt on my wife's car. Now, upon startup, there is a steady squeaking noise coming from the pulley area. The belt is the right size and the tensioner pulley markings show the tension to be in the correct "range."
A. The new belt is probably causing your squeaking noise. Put the old belt back on and see if the problem goes away. Some replacement belts are not the same exact length as the OE (original equipment) belt. If this does not help, you may have a bad bearing.
Front-end clicking
Q. What causes the clicking in my front end on turns?
A. Assuming that you have a front-wheel drive car, it sounds like you have a bad constant velocity shaft. You will get a much better deal at the local repair shop for this. It should run you around $300. I would not let it go too long because if it breaks it will leave you stranded. This is a very common problem with front-wheel drive vehicles that are getting up there in miles.
Gas cap, leaking
Q. My car leaks gas out of the gas cap if I fill it all the way up. At this time I simply fill it up ¾, but I'd like to fix the problem.
A. Make sure the vent tube on your gas tank is not plugged. This could be causing excess pressure in the system. You may need to remove the tank, depending on how the lines are run. Most garages should be able to do this. One caution, the garage may need to replace the gas tank straps, depending on the amount of corrosion.
Gas pedal, sticky
Q. When first starting up my car, the gas pedal is a little stuck. I have to hit the gas harder than I would like to get past the stickiness and get the car moving to back out of my driveway. Is this a common problem? Any fix advice?
A. First thing you need to do is disconnect the throttle cable and isolate whether you have a sticky cable or a sticky throttle body. If it is the throttle body, a cleaning may help. If that does not help, repairs or replacement may be needed. If you are uncomfortable checking things yourself, take it to a mechanic or dealer. A sticky throttle is dangerous and I would get this looked at as soon as possible.
Head gasket
Q. How can I tell if my head gasket is bad?
A. The three major signs of a bad head gasket are oil in the antifreeze, antifreeze in the oil or clouds of white smoke out of the tailpipe. These are the most obvious, but there can be other more minor symptoms. Head-gasket repairs typically run about $500 - $2,000 dollars, depending on whether the cylinder head needs work while it is apart. Basic labor for the job will probably be around $500. I would not worry about it until that time comes. To help prevent damage to the head gasket, make sure you change the oil on time and keep your antifreeze clean by having it flushed and replaced on schedule. Typically, this should be done about every 2 or 3 years.
Heating poor, interior
Q. What can I do to improve my heat in the winter?
A. Make sure your thermostat is working properly. It may be stuck open, and therefore not be allowing the engine to warm up quickly or even stay warm.
Injector clogging
Q. What causes the build-up of deposits on injectors?
A. It is mostly from the fuel itself. Gasoline is a mixture of many different hydrocarbons, including some that are heavy, waxy compounds. When the engine is shut off fuel residue in the injector nozzles evaporates, leaving the waxy compounds behind. Due to residual engine heat these compounds bake into hard varnish deposits. Ultimately, the build-up may clog the injectors.
Noise, how CR tests
Q. Does CR check the level of road and wind noise? It seems many people (like me) are becoming more and more annoyed, and it would be nice to know which cars are the quietest.
A. CR tests every single car for noise, according to four empirical parameters and one subjective judgment. We drive each vehicle:
All of these data points create a composite numerical score on a 1-5-point scale, which produces the noise "blob" we publish with our test results. Those that have a "5-blob" (full red donut) are the quietest.
Radio noise
Q. There is a pronounced "whine" that can be heard through the radio that gets louder as the RPM's increase.
A. Check your electrical connections, especially around the alternator and battery. Often it is a poor ground.
Suspension, air-ride
Q. What is the normal life of an air-ride suspension system, and should I get it fixed?
A. Usually around 8-12 years the cars start to develop problems with air-ride systems. There is really no standard length of time they last. It is dependent on amount and type of use. Air-ride systems are expensive to repair, but if the cost to repair is worth it to you, then you will get another 8-12 years out of it. On some models there are conversion kits to get rid of the air system and go back to a standard suspension, which can save a lot of money and problems.
Transmission shifting delay
Q. I have a new van with 25k miles, and almost since it was new I've had trouble with shifting. Unless I accelerate very slowly, there is a delay. What is wrong, and what can I do?
A. This is becoming a common complaint on some new models. Essentially the van has a design flaw. Some people notice it and dislike it, others are less affected. Often a reprogramming of the engine control computer will solve the problem. Call the dealer to see if there is a TSB (technical service bulletin) for programming updates that will help the shift-feel of your van.
Water leaks, AC
Q. Why does my air conditioner leak water?
A. When the air conditioning runs, condensation water from the evaporator drains to the outside through a drain tube. It is located inside the heater box and usually heads out through the firewall or the floor of the car. Check the tube for cracks and also check it for clogs. On an older vehicle, clogs are common and the water will back up and drip onto the carpet.
Water leaks, wet carpet
Q. I have a wet carpet. Where should I look for problems?
A. You need to determine where the leak is starting. If the wetness is just water, I would look at the weather-stripping that seals the doors to make sure it is not dried out, broken or cracked. If your car has a sunroof, make sure it is not leaking. There are drains in the tracks that could be clogged, causing water to run into the car. Also, there are drain plugs in the bottom of the car. You might want to check and make sure that one of those has not fallen out or been damaged. A blocked air conditioning drain is another possibility, especially on an older car.
If the wetness is slick and colored it may be antifreeze. In that case the cause could be a loose fitting or the heater core itself might have failed. Water leaks are not always easy to find, but be persistent. The car will suffer if the leak is not fixed.
Windshield, interior ice
Q. When my car is off it builds up ice on the interior of the windshield during cold weather. Is this normal? I've gone back to the dealer and they say that it is, but I've never seen it on any other cars.
A. You have excess moisture in the car. Check for water under the carpeting. You may have a leak, or it might be just melted snow. You need to dry the interior out. Do not use the re-circulate mode, and set the heater control to direct hot air down. Check the "water-leak" FAQ's (directly above) for some hints on locating the problem.
MISCELLANEOUS MAINTENANCE
Automatic transmission, shift to neutral?
Q. Does it make sense to shift an auto transmission into neutral when stopped, say, at a red light? Will all this shifting help or hurt in the long run? Or does it matter?
A. You will be fine to just leave the car in drive. I don't see any benefit to shifting to neutral, and I also can see some safety issues arising from not being in gear.
Battery chargers, jumper packs
Q. What criteria should I use for selection?
A. Jumper packs are portable and can start just about any piece of equipment you have. If something dies at any distance from an electrical outlet, the jumper pack gives you power to get it running again.
But to revive a discharged battery you need a charger. Get an automatic charger that will charge at 15 - 20 amps in regular mode, and also give you a trickle charge.
With both, you will have the best possible set up.
Battery replacement
Q. Is it wise to replace a car battery after 5 years if we plan to keep the car for a few more years? We would probably need a new one within that time, and this way we could do it at our convenience.
A. A typical battery lasts 4-6 years. If you live in a hot climate it will be a little closer to 4, and in cooler northern climates, 7 is not unheard of. Five years seems to be the average. So, if not getting stranded is of concern, it may be a good time to replace it. By replacing it, at least you know you should be good for another 5 years.
Battery, short trips
Q. I do a lot of short trips (most under 10 minutes each way) on a daily basis. I am concerned that one of these days, I will wake up to find the battery dead.
A. Five to ten minutes should be enough time for the battery to top off. Bigger concerns are the engine collecting moisture, and gasoline in the oil. The engine does not heat enough to remove these contaminants from the oil. Let your car warm up for a longer period of time, or take a little longer trip to get home. Also, be sure to change your oil at the earliest interval recommended by your owner's manual.
Cruise control in rain and ice Q. I heard that that it is dangerous to have the cruise control on in rain and ice, because if the car begins to hydroplane, and the tires lose contact with the pavement your car will accelerate. Is this a legend?
A. Cruise control should not be used in the rain. If the vehicle begins to hydroplane it is very easy to lose control, and the wheels can indeed begin to accelerate. That said, you will not see cars flying through the air unless they run into something that can send them airborne. Some manufacturers like Lexus and others are beginning to automatically disable the cruise control in the rain. Drivers of cars without this feature should use cruise control only when the roads are dry.
Diesel smoke
Q. I've got a new diesel. When I punch the accelerator hard I leave a cloud of blue smoke behind me. Is this normal?
A. Diesels will puff smoke on hard acceleration, and also when cold. A small puff of smoke is normal, but if you are covering the road behind you I would bring it in.
Emergency kit
Q. What should I carry in my car for safety/roadside repairs? I see lots of kits these days, but am not sure what I really need.
A. In the winter, some salt and a shovel are not a bad idea. Make sure they are secure in the vehicle. The best thing to have is a blanket, cell phone, and roadside assistance such as AAA.
Engine reliability
Q. Is it better to get 300 hp from a V8 or can a 4-cylinder turbocharged engine take the stress?
A. A 300-hp V8 is almost always going to be more reliable than a 300-hp turbocharged 4-cylinder. But, the V8 will also be heavier and have to be in a larger vehicle. The whole idea behind vehicles such as the Subaru WRX STI, for example, is to get maximum power in a small, nimble-handling vehicle. You have to ask yourself what you are really looking for, what you are going to do with it, and how long do you plan to keep it?
Engine, warming when cold
Q. How long should an engine be warmed during very cold temperatures? I seem to remember reading that anything more than one minute is unnecessary.
A. 1 to 2 minutes is sufficient to get things going.
Extended warranty
Q. Is an extended warranty advisable?
A. This is a tough subject, and it is hard to give a good answer. If you get one (normally $1,500 or so) and nothing goes wrong, you may get mad for spending the money. But if you experience serious engine or transmission problems you may regret not having made the purchase. The expected reliability of your car is a major factor. Check the CR comparative reliability Ratings. The less reliable a car is, the more likely you are to benefit from an extended warranty.
If you decide to get one, read the fine print on the warranty papers carefully. A common problem with extended warranties is that they are not as broad as the original manufacturer's warranty. For example, brakes may not be covered, so you would have to pay for that in full. Also, many extended programs have a $200 - $300 deductible. Normally a good portion of common repairs will cost less than the deductible. So you may end up paying $200 - $300 repeatedly before the warranty takes over. Again, read the coverage and fine print closely, and think of an extended warranty as catastrophe insurance.
Hail damage
Q. Does anyone know how to repair extensive pit marks left by hail stones? I am worried the repair may not look as good as new.
A. Most likely what will happen is, the hood and trunk will get replaced and the dents in the roof will be pulled out and repaired. In the right hands, the car will look as good as new, but this will not be a cheap repair.
Handling, improved
Q. I would like to reduce the body roll on my car when I turn a corner. Is it better to install the front/rear sway bars first, or replace the stock spring?
A. If you are just looking for a flatter cornering car, I would suggest sway bars and performance shocks. I also recommend that performance shocks be added if you change to a coil-over system. Be sure to get the proper sway bars. Just adding bigger sway bars to the front and back of a car does not mean better handling.
The coil-over system is a better way to go, but it is also much more expensive than the sway bar route. What are you looking for out of the car? If ride is any concern, stay away from the coil-over systems. They are designed with performance in mind, and push aside all thoughts of ride comfort. Also, keep in mind that once you leave the original equipment, when you change one thing you will affect something else.
Idle or shut off the engine?
Q. I am a volunteer driver and have to make frequent stops. Is it better to turn my car off at every single stop? Or leave it idling? If I leave it idling, it's wasting gas. If I shut off the engine, there is extra wear & tear on the engine.
A. For what you are doing, there is no harm being done by shutting off your car. Save your gas.
Life expectancy, older car
Q. When should I pull the plug on an older car?
A. There is no cut and dried answer here. It comes down to how much time you are willing to be off the road for repairs and how much money you are willing to spend to keep yourself on the road. Problems will typically increase as the car gets older. The money you put into it for repairs will generally not increase its value one penny.
A new car will probably prove much more reliable than what you have now. Plus you have the convenience of everything working, and there is usually a comprehensive warranty. However, all that reliability and convenience will come at a price.
These are things you probably already know. But those are the options, and you have to weigh them yourself to come out with the right answer for you. It would be easy for me to say, "go buy a new car and then you won't have to worry" but you have to pay for it, and I do not know your financial situation. Quite possibly a good reliable, newer used car could fit your needs.
Maintenance books
Q. What maintenance publications would you recommended in order to perform basic maintenance and repair?
A. The factory manual is always the best. They are a little pricey but you can often get a deal on EBay. Otherwise, both Haynes and Chilton's publish pretty decent guides (search on the Web by these names + "car repair").
Manufacturer buyback
Q. I purchased a new truck, and after 7 attempts over 8 weeks, dealer and Field Service Engineers could not solve a moderate vibration problem in the vehicle. The manufacturer has agreed to buy back the vehicle, but no one can tell me what this will mean. Would I be better off going through State Lemon Laws?
A. Typically, if the manufacturer is buying the vehicle back, it will work in your favor. Hang tight and wait to see what they offer you, and go from there. There really doesn't seem to be a set of rules for a buyback unless it is done under the Lemon Law. In that case, you would need to check the paperwork that came with the vehicle for details.
OEM, definition
Q. Does OEM mean that the product was produced by the manufacturer's supplier, or is it that it "meets the specification of the original equipment manufacturer"?
A. OE or OEM means that the product should come from the original manufacturer of the part. For example, in the case of a windshield, the windshield should either come from the dealer as a manufacturer's part, or it should come from the original supplier of the windshield, such as Safelite, Temperlite, or whomever else may have produced it for the car maker.
Painting/repainting
Q. What should I be looking for in terms of pricing, materials, and procedures?
A. The methods of repainting your car will vary depending on the amount of prep work needed to make it right. The average cost to have a car re-done is $2,000-$2,500. Your best bet is to ask some local people who they recommend in your area. If you are looking for a good job, stay away from the discount auto body shops.
Recalls
Q. How do I know that all past recall work has been done on a used car?
A. Call any dealer for that make of car, give them the VIN (vehicle identification number) and they will tell you if there are any outstanding recalls.
Recall information, Technical Safety Bulletin (TSB)
Q. I heard that my vehicle has a recall. How do I find out for sure?
A. Call your local dealer and give him the VIN number for your vehicle. They should be able to tell you what recalls there are, and if your car was done or not. If it has not been done, they will take care of it for you
Recall and TSB (Technical Safety Bulletin) information is also available online from NHTSA (National Highway Traffic Safety Administration).
Recalls on an older car
Q. I'd like to buy an older car. However, the NHTSA site shows several recalls. Will the dealer still fix these items free-of-charge?
A. Call any dealer for that make. They will check to see if the recall work has been done already. If not, the dealer should take care of the outstanding work free-of-charge.
Recalls -- who pays?
Q. When you take your car to the dealer shop for any recall, does the consumer pay or the dealer?
A. First, keep in mind that not all cars are included in a particular recall. Call your local dealer and give them your car's VIN (vehicle identification number). They will be able to tell you which recalls apply to your car. The costs for all necessary recall work will be covered by the manufacturer.
Storing a car Q. What should be done to prepare a car that is going to sit unused (garaged) for two months? What should be done before the car is driven again?
A. Put a trickle-charger on the battery. If it is only a couple of months that's all that is necessary. Make sure to get the oil changed when the car is taken out again.
Q. After two years of storage I managed to get my car running with a new battery and fresh gas. Are there any other steps to ensure safe and functional operation of the vehicle?
A. Change the oil and antifreeze. If it's an automatic, check the ATF level. Also, check the levels in the transfer case and rear end. Consider changing fluids if you are close to the recommended service interval. Have the brakes checked by a mechanic. It would also be a good idea to replace the brake fluid. Unless you are familiar with the process, have a professional do it. Check the drive belts, as they may need replacing also. Finally, take a good look at the tires. Make sure that they are properly inflated, and check their age. Look for cracks in the rubber or bulges. Both are signs of potential trouble.
Q. I have a camper that I don't use all winter. I always change the oil just before storing it for the winter and weather permitting, I'll drive it for a few miles every other month or so in the winter. Should I change the oil when I take it out of storage or should I wait until I've driven 3,000 miles since the last oil change?
A. Moisture and fuel can get in the system from just sitting around, and from the short start ups. It is best to warm the engine up completely and then change the oil when you take it out of storage to remove any moisture and fuel from the engine.
Storing a car in winter
Q. I live up north and will be storing a sports car for about 6 months in an unheated garage under a car cover. What should I do for maintenance?
A. Change the oil shortly before storing your vehicle. Get a trickle-charger and let the car charge during the winter months. If you can, drive it for 30 minutes or so every month. If this is not an option, then leaving it up on blocks is not a bad idea. Also, be sure to use fuel stabilizer in the gas tank.
Q. What do I need to do to really winterize a diesel pickup in Alaska?
A. First thing would be to have the coolant checked to make sure it is ready to handle the extreme cold weather. If it is marginal or has not been changed in a couple of years, now is the time to do it.
Second is to add a fuel conditioner. Talk to your local dealer and they can recommend what is right for your truck. You should also install an electric engine-block heater and a battery blanket. Other than that, make sure your battery, tires and spare are up to snuff.
Tools, automotive
Q. How can I find the right tools of the trade, and what is best in terms of value for the money?
A. Here is my opinion on tools. Craftsman makes a great tool at a fraction of the price of what the tool trucks like Snap-on or Mac get. They are an excellent way to get started with a minimal investment. With Craftsman tools you can return them to Sears at any time and get a free replacement. The tool trucks do this as well, but you have to wait for them to get there and hope they have the replacement on the truck. Some special purpose tools, however, will have to be bought from the tool trucks or auto-supply houses.
There are a lot of nice tools on the tool trucks that make things work easier, but you can definitely get carried away with them. I speak from experience. Ask yourself if this tool will make me more profitable, or do the job better. If the answer is no, and you just want it because it is "cool," you might want to pass.
Truck-bed liners
Q. I would like to install a "Rhino"-type bed liner. Are these types of liners worth the cost, and is there a preferred type?
A. Spray-in bed liners are definitely the way to go if you plan to keep the truck for any length of time. We do spray our test vehicles with them. We have tried several and have been happy with all of them. No official testing has been done though.
Look around at the companies available in your area. There are different textures between companies, and it becomes somewhat of a personal preference. There are also some products that can be tinted to match the color of your vehicle. I do not recommend doing this yourself as it can be messy, and the final result may not be as nice.
Q. There are plastic liners, blanket liners, and spray-on liners. Do I need one, and is there really a best one to use?
A. One of the greatest benefits of a bed liner is the protection of the bed area from rust. It is very easy to rub through the factory paint on an unprotected bed and get to bare metal. Plastic bed liners work, but they are very slippery. They tend to slide around and eventually scratch the bed, which then leads to rust. Spray-on bed liners are the best. They offer excellent protection, use anti-skid-type materials, and are extremely rugged. The down side is that most do not repair very well if they are cut through. However, that is usually very rare. At CR we have not done any official testing, but we have had many different types sprayed onto our test trucks. Hands down we have been happiest with Rhino brand spray-in liners. It will run you roughly $500 - $600.
Truck tailgate
Q. My neighbor told me to remove the tailgate of my truck for better mileage. What is your take on this matter?
A. Several years back, CR said that lowering or removing the tailgate gate made only a marginal difference in gas mileage and in most cases simply does not improve mileage. We are still sticking with that report. Also, the tailgate is part of the structure of the vehicle and when removed, makes the bed of the truck weaker.
Vehicle emissions
Q. What do cars sold in California have, or how are they modified, to achieve the better emissions ratings? How does this affect their performance and can a vehicle sold outside California be modified in a similar way?
A. California emissions standards are tighter than in most other states. Currently, all new cars meet California emission standards. In the past, as California raised the standards, manufacturers installed larger catalytic converters, remapped ECM's, changed the timing, and did a few other things to decrease emissions, These changes usually decreased power.
Most older cars can be modified, but the cost would be extreme, and it would be difficult to find a shop to do that kind of work.
Warranty, extended
Q. Is an extended warranty advisable?
A. This is a tough subject, and it is hard to give a good answer. If you get one (normally $1,500 or so) and nothing goes wrong, you may get mad for spending the money. But if you experience serious engine or transmission problems you may regret not having made the purchase. The expected reliability of your car is a major factor. Check the CR comparative reliability Ratings. The less reliable a car is, the more likely you are to benefit from an extended warranty.
If you decide to get one, read the fine print on the warranty papers carefully. A common problem with extended warranties is that they are not as broad as the original manufacturer's warranty. For example, brakes may not be covered, so you would have to pay for that in full. Also, many extended programs have a $200 - $300 deductible. Normally a good portion of common repairs will cost less than the deductible. So you may end up paying $200 - $300 repeatedly before the warranty takes over. Again, read the coverage and fine print closely, and think of an extended warranty as catastrophe insurance.
Warranty, repairs
Q. Will taking my car to locations other than the dealership for standard maintenance void my warranty?
A. As long as you keep records of all maintenance performed, including receipts identifying the car and proving its mileage, you will not void your warranty. Just make sure you are getting good quality parts installed by the garage you choose.
JOHN'S TOOL BOX
Expert advice on auto maintenance and repair with CR auto mechanic John Ibbotson
The TOOL BOX is one of our most popular Forums, hosted by John, whose vast knowledge and hands-on experience with car-care is evident in every response. You'll find his consistent philosophy throughout: Preventive maintenance is a good investment and is almost always cheaper and safer than repair.
Please note: Diagnosing auto maintenance and repair problems from a distance is, at best, an imperfect art. We cannot be responsible for how you use the information we provide.
TOPICS:
A)Routine maintenance:
1)Fluids and filters
2)Intervals (time between changes)
3)Washing and cleaning
4)Miscellaneous routine maintenance
B)Vehicle repair
C)Trouble-shooting
D)Miscellaneous
A)ROUTINE MAINTENANCE
| 1) Fluids and Filters | |
| Air filters - K&N Coolant, green/red Coolant, Dexcool Fuel filter, replace-ment Fuel treatment, additives Gas - best brand Gas, low octane Gas, premium fuel Gas, "Top Tier" Oil, additives Oil, brands Oil change in a stored vehicle Oil change, interval Oil filter, best |
Oil filter, change Oil filter, quality Oil filter, remote system Oil, high-mileage Oil-level check Oil sump overfill Oil, synthetic Quick Lube Quick Lube, recycled oil Transmission filter, fluid, change Transmission fluid, owner's manual recommendations Windshield de-icer |
| 2) Intervals between changes | |
| Common replacement intervals Dealer service vs. local shop Engine break-in Maintenance interval, dealer recommendation Maintenance interval, high mileage |
Maintenance interval, low mileage Maintenance interval, miles or months "Maintenance, re-quired" light Maintenance, too much? Radiator, hose replacement interval |
| 3) Washing and cleaning | |
| Wash, engine Wash, under-carriage Wash/polish, acid rain protectant Wash/polish, how-to Wash/polish, shine products |
Wash/polish, spray wax Wash/polish, tree sap Wash, winter Washing after wax |
| 4) Miscellaneous maintenance | |
| Battery went dry Brake fluid flush or change Fuel injection, cleaning Headlights Spark plugs, best Spark plugs, wires Timing belt, chain |
Timing belt, replacement Timing belt warning Transmission, Constant Velocity (CVT) Window tinting Wipers, refills vs. blade replacement |
| ABS warning light Air bag warning light Air conditioner, R12 Alignment Belt terminology Brake and steering-fluid, flush Brake pads Brake pads, ceramic, non-ceramic Brakes, improving Brakes, uneven pad wear Brakes, where to repair Check-engine light CV boot cracks Diagnostic codes Dog scratches |
Engine code reader/analyzer Exhaust system repairs Gasoline line repair Grease fittings Rotor, early wear Shock absorbers leak, replacing Signal lights Spark plugs Struts Suspension, modifying Transmission seal leak Wheel alignment, balancing Wheel rim, cracked Windshield repair Windshield scratches |
| Automatic transmission slippage Bad smell from A/C Battery, won't keep charge Brakes lock up Catalytic converter rattles Computer analyzer Fan belt noise Front-end clicking Gas cap, leaking Gas pedal, sticky |
Head gasket Heating, interior poor Injector clogging Noise, how CR tests Radio noise Suspension, air-ride Transmission shifting delay Water leaks, A/C Water leaks, wet carpet Windshield, interior ice |
| Automatic trans-mission, shift to neutral? Battery chargers/ jumper packs Battery replacement Battery, short trips Cruise control in rain, ice Diesel smoke Emergency kit Engine reliability Engine-warming when cold Extended warranty Hail damage Handling, improve Idle or shut off the engine? Life expectancy, older car Maintenance books Manufacturer buy-back |
OEM, definition Painting/repainting Recalls Recall information, Technical Safety Bulletin Recalls, older car Recalls, who pays? Storing a car Storing a car in winter Tools, automotive Truck bed liners Truck tailgate Vehicle emissions Warranty extended Warranty, repairs Winterizing, winter storage |
ROUTINE MAINTENANCE
Fluids and filters
Air filters - K&N
Q. Wondering if K&N air and oil filters are worth it?
A. Unless you plan on making further performance modifications to your vehicle, stay with a factory- equivalent replacement part. You will most likely see little to no gain from the K&N, but you can wash and reuse the filter. If the idea of doing the cleaning instead of replacing the filter appeals to you, than you might consider one, but don't overlook that cleaning.
Coolant, green/red
Q. My car has red coolant in it. Is it OK to top it off with the green coolant?
A. Newer engines are designed with specific coolants in mind. Using a coolant other than the one specified, even to top it off, could cause gasket leaks and premature wear of parts. Use only what the factory recommends and you will be fine.
Coolant, Dexcool
Q. My car has Dexcool coolant. I have heard that this new type of coolant deteriorates the intake manifold gasket. Is this true?
A. Dexcool has been known to cause problems with engines not designed for it. If your engine was built with Dexcool in mind, you will have no problem with its continued use. Check your owner's manual for the recommended coolant.
Fuel filter, replacement interval
Q. When should I replace the fuel filter?
A. Fuel filters do last longer than they used to, especially with the introduction of plastic fuel tanks, as there is no rust. Check your owner's manual for recommended intervals. If you cannot find an interval, I would stick with changing it every 40-50,000 miles if you drive the car everyday. More often if the car sits around a lot.
Some manufacturers have designed vehicles that never require a fuel-filter change. The modern Toyota, for example, has the fuel filter built into the fuel tank, making access limited for most and dangerous for all. There are some Chrysler products that also have the fuel filter in the fuel tank. The fuel tank must be dropped in order to change it. Open fuel cells are always dangerous. Unless the fuel system has been exposed to debris of some kind, you never have to change the fuel filter.
Q. I have a car with 130,000 miles on it. My mechanic said that a fuel filter replacement was not necessary. Why would the owner's manual not specify a fuel filter change?
A. Newer cars have plastic fuel tanks and sealed systems. As a result fuel and fuel filters receive much less contamination than they used to. Less contamination means that fewer filter changes are needed. Still, 100,000 miles should be the maximum mileage allowed before a filter change. It is cheap insurance.
Fuel treatment/additives
Q. Have you ever heard of a fuel-saving device called a "Fuel Optimiser?" It is an oval plastic shell that contains magnets and clips over the fuel line. It supposedly "breaks apart clusters of fuel molecules so gas burns more efficiently." It sells for about $20.
A. We have heard of items like this, and my advice is simple. Stick to the proper fuel requirements for your car. Use a bottle of fuel-injector cleaner every other oil change, and keep to the manufacturer's recommended service intervals. Follow this and you will be fine.
Gas, best brand
Q. My car requires "premium" fuel. I have always heard that Amoco (now BP) is the very best of the best. Is there any truth to that?
A. Your car will respond just as well to Mobil, Texaco, or Sunoco as it will to BP. Fuel companies may add different chemical additives to their fuel, but it really all comes from the same place before it is distributed to them.
Gas, low octane
Q. On a recent trip across country, once I passed west into Kansas and Colorado I noticed the gas stations sold 85 Octane as regular unleaded, 87 as plus, and 89 as premium. What cars today can run on 85 octane? I thought the minimum was 87?
A. It is due to the altitude above sea level. The higher the altitude, the less octane required. A car that runs on 87 octane will run fine on 85 at higher altitudes.
Gas, premium fuel
Q. Most luxury and high performance autos recommend "premium fuel", but I have heard that they will run just fine on "regular fuel" and that the engine computer can adjust for the lower octane fuel. Is there a list of autos that will run on regular, when premium is recommended, or does one just have to experiment to find out?
A. Check your owner's manual. If only premium is specified it may not be safe to run regular for extended periods. You could damage the engine. If both types are listed, you can use regular, but be aware that you will get decreased performance, and possibly lower gas mileage.
Gas, "Top Tier"
Q. Reading up on gasoline quality, I've noticed a new standard for gasoline called "Top Tier Detergent Gasoline." Is it worthwhile to seek out gasoline that meets this new standard?
A. First, there is an EPA requirement that all manufacturers of gasoline and cars have agreed on. "Top Tier" appears to be primarily a marketing term. There are requirements to meet "Top Tier," but this does not mean that those who are not top tier do not meet such requirements. The bottom line is, you can safely purchase gasoline from any major brand station because the quality of the gasoline from all of them is very high.
Oil additives
Q. Are oil additives worth using?
A. I'm often asked if it is worth it spending money on oil additives such as Prolong, DuraLube, and ZMax? My answer is simple. Keep your money and be sure to change your oil on time.
Oil brands
Q. Does the brand of oil matter?
A. My suggestion on motor oil is straightforward. If you are using conventional motor oil, stick with the same brand, and adhere closely to the recommended interval in the owner's manual. If you are someone who does not make it in for oil changes on time, lives in a severe climate, or works the vehicle hard, use synthetic motor oil. With a synthetic, I would also stick to the manufacturer's recommended interval, because it is hard to determine exactly the conditions that will allow for extended use. Better safe than sorry. I can't express enough how cheap an oil change is compared to the damage that may be caused by it's not being changed.
Oil change in a stored vehicle
Q. I have a camper that I don't use all winter. I always change the oil just before storing it for the winter and weather permitting, I'll drive it for a few miles every other month or so in the winter. Should I change the oil when I take it out of storage or should I wait until I've driven 3,000 miles since the last oil change?
A. Moisture and fuel can get in the system from just sitting around, and from the short start ups. It is best to warm the engine up completely and then change the oil when you take it out of storage to remove any moisture and fuel from the engine.
Oil-change interval
Q. Is a shorter oil change interval better?
A. If you drive short trips and do not put a lot of miles on your car, you will want to do better than the normal scheduled interval, maybe as often as 3,000 miles. The same applies if you travel dirt back roads, have a lot of up and downhill driving, or live in an extremely hot, cold or wet climate. However, if you drive you car 30-40 minutes each way to work everyday, or drive the car many miles per year, you will be fine staying with the manufacturer's recommended oil-change interval.
I do not recommend exceeding that interval. It's always better to stay on the safe side. Oil changes are one of the biggest factors in the longevity of your vehicle. Don't skimp here.
Oil filter, best
Q. Who makes the best oil filters?
A. It has been some time since our last oil-filter test, but if you stick with a major brand, like WIX or Fram, which meets or exceeds original equipment specs, you will be just fine. Most important is changing your oil on time and using the proper viscosity of oil.
Oil filter, change
Q. Should I change the oil filter each time I change the oil?
A. Some manufacturers differentiate between filter changes and oil changes. Honda for example sometimes specifies 7,500-mile oil changes and 15,000-mile filter changes. Oil filters cost on average about $6-$7. Don't chance it over such a minimal amount of money. Change the filter every time and rest easy.
Oil filter, quality
Q. I have been checking different sites and found a lot of confusion on the quality of different oil filters. I own a new Toyota Sienna. Is it imperative that I use the Toyota filter?
A. You do not need to use the original equipment oil filter. I use WIX filters and am very happy with them, but any reputable brand will be fine. It is more important to change oil as per the recommended schedule and to replace the filter with each oil change.
Oil filter, remote system
Q. Why do they mount oil filters upside down so they leak all over the place when you change them? Are those adapters, which remotely locate the filter worthwhile, safe and easy to install?
A. Although it can be a hassle getting oil everywhere from an "upside down" filter, I recommend not using a remote system. The engines and their oiling components are designed to work as a system, and to change one thing could cause a problem elsewhere.
Oil, high-mileage
Q. Are the new high-mileage oils designed for older cars worth the extra money?
A. Conventional motor oils have proven more than adequate when changed on time, even in high mileage motors. I would stick with what you have been using, and don't skimp on oil changes. If you do decide to use a high-mileage oil, it can be mixed with conventional motor oil to top it off.
Oil-level check
Q. What is the correct time to take a dipstick reading for the correct oil level in the sump? Is it when the engine has just been turned off, when it has sat for a while and the engine is still warm, or when the engine is cold?
A. The best time is when the engine is cold, or when it has sat for a while. You are looking for the oil to be in the safe zone. Do not be concerned with it sitting exactly on the full line, but it should be close to it.
Oil sump over-fill
Q. When I got my car back from the mechanic, the oil was a bit over the full mark. Is this a problem?
A. The full line on any vehicle is the max. There is a little room for error, but not much. Exactly how much varies from vehicle to vehicle. If your vehicle is significantly over-full I would ask him to fix it. There is no sense in taking a chance due to the carelessness.
Oil, synthetic
Q. Our car spec calls for synthetic motor oil. A local shop suggested 5w-20. Both are more expensive. Will the warranty be compromised if these oils are not used?
A. Some manufacturers have started using a 5W-20 synthetic blend motor oil in some of their newer cars. I would stick with what they recommend. It is more expensive, but the cost is minimal if it will protect the motor properly.
Quick Lube
Q. Are quick-lube places OK to use?
A. I personally feel a local garage or dealer is a better place to have your oil changed. In general they take a little more time and care with your car. When it is up on the lift they will check for any problems. They do charge accordingly, though. My thought in this area is that you get what you pay for. There is a reason why quick-lube places can do an oil change for as little as $15. A car is a major investment. Don't skimp here.
Quick Lube, recycled oil?
Q. Do quick-lube places use recycled oil?
A. I do not know of any quick-lube places that use recycled oil. Recycled oil is used to heat commercial buildings. They are not putting it in your car. The quality of the quick-lube oil is fine. Just make sure they are using the correct weight of oil.
Transmission filter, fluid change
Q. When should the automatic transmission filter and fluid be replaced?
A. Many car manuals are unclear on transmission filter changes. Some manufacturers recommend 60,000 miles. Others recommend 30,000 miles. My thoughts on this subject are similar to oil changes. Too much is always better than too little. I feel that 30,000 miles is an excellent time to change the fluid and filter, unless the manufacturer specifies sooner. It is cheap insurance compared to the cost of a new transmission.
Normally, draining and refilling the transmission allows for only 4-5 quarts of transmission fluid to be removed and replaced out of the 8-15 quarts that are in the transmission. So frequent changes are better. Some shops offer a power-flush service, which allows for all of the fluid to be "forced" out under pressure. After the flush stage a cleaning fluid is forced into the transmission under pressure and automatically drained. Then all the fluid is replaced. Some transmissions such as the Toyota family do not have filters--there is nothing more than a screen.
Transmission fluid, owner's manual recommendations
Q. My owner's manual "highly recommends" that I use the manufacturer's name-brands of transmission fluid, brake fluid, engine coolant and oil. Would using another brand really compromise the performance of my car as my manual seems to maintain?
A. It is very important to make sure the automatic transmission fluid it is correct, so following the manual's recommendations is good advice. For the motor oil, brake fluid, and coolant, aftermarket fluids are just fine.
Windshield de-icer
Q. Can Prestone yellow de-icer be mixed in the windshield washer reservoir with the standard blue de-icer?
A. Yes, you can mix the products, but the stronger of the two will be weakened.
Intervals between changes
Common replacement intervals
Q. In general, what are typical replacement intervals (in miles) for the following items: brake pads/shoes and rotors/drums, mufflers, tires, wiper blades, halogen headlights.
A. There are many variables involved, but these numbers are typical:
| Brake pads/shoes and rotors/drums: | |
| For trucks and SUVs: | 20,000 to 30,000 miles |
| For cars: | 25,000 to 45,000 miles |
| Mufflers: | 100,000 to 200,000 miles |
| Tires: | 25,000 to 50,000 |
| Wiper Blades: | 6 months to a year |
| Halogen Headlights: | 1 to 3 years |
These are only approximate intervals. Different driving habits and patterns may change the outcome.
Dealer service vs. local shop
Q. Is dealer service better?
A. Generally, you will pay more for the work at the dealership than a local repair shop. The advantages of going to the dealer are that they will have OEM parts for your car, and often provide extras such as a loaner car. My suggestion is to stay with the dealer if it is not putting a strain on your wallet. A good relationship with the service department goes a long way. Also, if you have good experience with a certain technician, ask for that individual by name when you bring your car in for repair.
I am not saying smaller repair shops or oil change places are bad, but in my experience you seem to get a little more personal care from a dealer. If you are happy somewhere, don't jump around. If something was to go wrong with a previous repair you know where to head instead of trying to figure out who was responsible.
Engine break-in
Q. What is the best way to break in my new engine?
A. You should drive the car normally, but here are some don'ts for the first 500 miles. Do not drive at sustained highway speeds. Vary the rpm's. Do not tow or carry heavy loads. Do not pull up steep hills. Do not race the engine or pull high rpm's. That should be a good start. Sometimes your owner's manual will have additional comments.
Maintenance interval, dealer recommendation
Q. My dealer specifies a list of 15K-mile service steps (every 15K) that are not in the owner's manual. Are they worth it anyway? They include extra inspections, lubrication of minor items, tire rotation, and radiator cleaning. The cost is $179.
A. Remember, preventative maintenance is the key to the longevity of your car. I do not think it is a bad idea at all to get those things done. The price is fair, but if you can buy the parts and do it yourself, you can save quite a bit and have a little more peace of mind.
Maintenance interval, high mileage
Q. What is the maintenance interval beyond 60,000 miles?
A. If you look in your owner's manual you will see a pattern in the repair intervals. Just keep following those intervals. For instance, if the timing-belt replacement is due at 80,000 miles, it should be done again at 160,000 miles. One thing to remember, on an older car chances are higher that you will break down or have trouble with it. If you begin to notice something wrong, bring it in for a checkup or repair. Don't wait till it breaks. You will thank yourself later.
Maintenance interval, low-mileage car
Q. I have an older car that has only 50,000 miles on it. It is in excellent condition. I drive it frequently, but only average 2,500 miles per year. What should my maintenance schedule be?
A. You need to change your oil every three months. Try to keep the fuel tank as close to full as possible, and if the opportunity presents itself, periodically take a long trip of an hour or so.
Maintenance interval, miles or months
Q. The maintenance schedule for my car says things like "5,000 miles or 4 months". I assume this means whichever comes first, so if I drive less than 5,000 miles a year, I should go by months, not miles. Is this correct?
A. You are absolutely correct. Use the time interval and not the mileage.
"Maintenance required" light
Q. My "maintenance required" light came on. When I went to a shop they checked it, and told me that the system read that nothing was wrong. Do you have any idea what could be the problem?
A. The "maintenance-required" light and the "check-engine" light are two different things. When they checked your car, they were probably only looking for things that would trigger the check-engine light. If you look in your owner's manual, it will explain why the maintenance light comes on, and what to do. Many times the light comes on at a set interval to make you aware of certain things the car may need. The owner's manual will also tell you how to reset the light if you have already performed the required maintenance.
Maintenance, too much?
Q. I am confused by the dealer's maintenance schedule. The dealer recommends many more items for each mileage interval than the owner's manual. Who is right?
A. If you drive the car everyday for at least 30 miles, go by the book. Many of the things the dealer is adding are probably just inspection, and may be overkill with a price to match. While all the things they are suggesting might not be a bad idea to check, you may do better somewhere else.
Radiator, hose replacement interval
Q. On an older car can I wait 10 years, and who knows how many miles, or should I replace the parts at a predetermined mileage?
A. For best results the fluid should be changed every two years. The hoses should be changed every 4 years. The radiator only needs to be replaced as needed. Most times, if the fluids are changed and the vehicle is kept clean, the radiator will last a very long time.
Washing and cleaning
Wash, engine
Q. Many coin-operated sprayer car washes have an engine-wash setting. I've been wondering if there is any danger in spraying a hot engine with an aluminum head with the cold water from these sprayers?
A. I do see a danger in spraying a hot engine with cold water. If you are going to degrease or clean your engine compartment, my suggestion is to let is cool first, or do not do it. There are other risk factors with the engine compartment. If certain items such as computers and distributors are not properly sealed, you could do more harm than good. If you have not performed this job before, it may be worth it to send it to a professional detail shop and have them handle it.
Wash, undercarriage
Q. I went to the beach this past weekend and I have a lot of salt water spots on my car. I will wash the car to make sure it does not eat through my paint and the finish. However, I was wondering if I should try to wash the undercarriage of the car.
A. Just go ahead and wash down the underside of your car. There is nothing under there that will be harmed. The chassis is normally exposed to the elements. Just make sure the pressure on the hose is not so great that it might knock a hose off, or pull hard on any wiring.
Wash/polish, acid-rain protectant
Q. I would like to know if there is any advantage to having acid rain protectant applied to my new car's finish. I am not able to garage my car for protection from the weather.
A. If you wax your car 3 to 4 times per year, I see no advantage to spending the money. If you very rarely wax your car, it may be worth it, but it doesn't last forever. The best thing to do is take care of the paint yourself with proper cleaning and waxing.
Wash/polish, how-to
Q. Do you recommend a specific brand of car wash product? I plan on doing it the "old-fashioned" way; just a sponge and a bucket, no power washer.
A. I like to use a liquid car wash. I think most of them are fine. I do not believe, however, in using a car wash that contains wax. Do that it two separate steps.
Wash-polish-shine products
Q. To keep the dash and tires shiny, is something like "Armor all" sufficient, or is there a better product out there?
A. I think as far as "shine" products go, they all get the job done well. It becomes a matter of personal taste based on the results. Some have more shine; others leave a duller finish.
Wash/polish, spray wax
Q. When I go to the local car wash, I often wonder if I'm just wasting my time and money using the spray wax. Does this stuff actually work?
A. Washing and waxing should be done in two steps, preferably by hand. The car washes spray a water and wax solution on your car and it does leave some of it on the paint, but it also leaves it on your windshield, the wipers and everything else that does not need to be waxed. The result is nowhere near as good as doing it yourself. I feel it is not worth the money.
Wash/polish, tree sap
Q. I have tree sap from a pine all over my hood. I have tried all the products on the market but none seem to remove the pine sap. Any ideas?
A. This is a tough one and even the body shop we deal with does not have a cure-all. The best way we have found is to use a professional automotive paint-prep solvent and rags. Soak the sap and wipe, but don't let the solvent sit too long or you could ruin the paint.
It will take several attempts to let the solvent break down the sap enough to be wiped. Every time you wipe the sap, some will be removed and some will spread. Just continue till it is gone, then buff the area with a compound and finally, wax. This can be time consuming and tricky. If you do not feel comfortable working with these chemicals, consult your local body shop.
Wash, winter
Q. Is it recommended to wash the road salt off your vehicle when the temperature outside is below freezing?
A. Wait until it is above freezing to get the job done. But the sooner you can get to it the better.
Washing after applying wax
Q. A couple of weeks ago, I applied a coat of cleaner/wax to my car. If I take it to the local car wash when it gets dirty, will that remove the wax? Or should I just wash the car myself?
A. A good wax should not wash off immediately, but detergents will affect it. If you wash the car yourself you can control the amount of detergent that you use. Unless the car is a mess, a few drops should suffice. If you use a car wash you may need to wax more frequently.
Miscellaneous maintenance
Battery went dry
Q. My car is 4 or 5 years old, and wouldn't start. The battery had completely dried out. We added distilled water and hooked it up to the charger and now it's showing fully charged. Is it OK or should I buy a new battery?
A. Definitely get a new battery. You might be OK for a short while, but why take a chance on getting stranded.
Brake fluid flush or change
Q. My understanding is that brake fluid needs to be changed or flushed every two years, because brake fluid absorbs water over time. Will the calipers and brake pistons be corroded if flushing was not done?
A. If the fluid was changed at regular intervals then flushing is not necessary.
Fuel injection, cleaning
Q. Is dealer fuel-injection cleaning useful?
A. If you are experiencing problems, the system the dealerships and garages use is much more effective than the cleaner in a bottle. If you have never used a cleaner in the fuel tank of your vehicle and want to have it cleaned, it may be worth it to pay the extra money and let the dealer do it. After that I would run a bottle of cleaner in the tank about every other oil change.
If you are not having any problems with your car, start running fuel-injection cleaner in the fuel tank every other oil change and don't spend the extra for the dealer's cleaning system. The cleaner you put in the tank will cost you about $4 to $5 each.
Headlights
Q. Is there anything one can do about condensation in headlights?
A. Headlight condensation means that somehow water has infiltrated the housings and cannot get out. The solution is to get the moisture out and seal any cracks or leaks. If your lights have covers, take them off and dry out the interior. If they are sealed, take out the bulbs. To do the drying you can use a hair dryer, or park the car in the sun.
You may need new seals, or you may have a crack. Cracks that do not interfere with the light can be sealed with silicon sealer. If the cracks are not repairable you will have to replace the light assembly.
The bad news is most of the time these tricks do not work. Give it a couple tries, but if water continues to come back, replace the light.
Spark plugs, best
Q. What are the best spark plugs?
A. If your vehicle is stock, stick with the original equipment plugs and wires. The manufacturer goes through a lot of effort to find the right plug and wire combination for that engine.
Most of the "trick" or "high-performance" plugs are pure hype. Platinum plugs do seem to last longer than standard plugs, but I have found no difference in engine power. There are plenty of people who say "I installed brand-X plugs in my car and they are great". This may be true, but it is mainly due to the fact that they put in new plugs, and not that they are better than stock.
Spark plugs, wires
Q. Are fatter spark plug wires better?
A. As far as spark plug wires go, in general, the larger the diameter (usually in mm), the better the fire. This is because there is less resistance and more insulation. But there are 7mm wires that will out perform 8mm wires strictly because of the quality of the materials used and their ability to conduct the spark.
Timing belt, chain
Q. What's the difference between a timing belt and timing chain?
A. Both serve the same function in rotating the camshaft. A chain is more expensive to produce and repair but it lasts longer. A belt is quieter and cheaper to produce but it is prone to breakage. Timing belts need to be changed every 60,000 miles or so.
Timing belt, replacement
Q. What if a the timing belt is not changed on time? What problems will this lead to?
A. If you do not change the belt on time, you run the risk of it breaking. If the belt breaks, it will allow the valves to make contact with the pistons. At a minimum, you will need to have the heads redone, a $1,500-$3,000 job. Potentially, the entire motor will need to be replaced. That can cost $3,000-$5,000.
Timing belt warning
Q. My car has a timing belt warning. Is this important?
A. Getting the timing belt changed on time is critical. They usually run around $300 at a shop, but the cost is minimal compared to the damage that can be caused when they do break. Just about all timing belts will break with out any warning. There is usually no telltale sign. My suggestion is to get this done on schedule and you won't need to worry about it again for another 60-90 thousand miles (depending on your recommended interval).
Transmission, Constant Velocity (CVT)
Q. The car I am considering only comes with a CVT. What kind of maintenance can I expect for this new technology and what kind of reliability can I expect?
A. Constant Velocity Transmissions generally have fewer parts to fail, and maintenance is not much different than a multi-speed transmission. Heat is the leading cause of failure in this type of transmission.
Window tinting
Q. I am removing the window tinting from my car. I have removed the tinting film, but how do I remove the residual adhesive?
A. Use window cleaner and a razor blade. If the glue you have is too strong for the window cleaner, try the chemical cleaner that body shops use to prep paint. You can buy it at an auto supply house.
Wiper refills vs. blade replacements
Q. The guys at the auto parts store tell me that wiper refills will not restore wiper performance to factory-new quality, that you should replace the entire blade. Blades are three times more expensive. What do you recommend?
A. New blades are the better way to go. Refills do not always restore a perfect wipe. The joints tend to wear on the arms and the refills do not compensate for it.
VEHICLE REPAIR
ABS warning light
Q. The ABS light has come on in the dashboard, but my brakes are fine. I have no problem with them. Why would it come on? I don't want to be taken advantage of when I go in to have it repaired or checked.
A. When the ABS (antilock brake system) light is on, the system is usually disabled. The car will stop as usual under normal braking conditions, but in a panic stop the anti-lock feature will not be there to help you. Brakes are the most important part of the car and ABS helps significantly in an emergency situation. We advise immediate attention.
There are several reasons why the light could be on. The only way to tell is by diagnosing the ABS system with a scan tool. I understand your concern as to cost. Ask for a quote. If it seems out of line it may be worth a second opinion.
Air-bag warning light
Q. Several weeks after purchase of our new car, the air-bag warning light came on intermittently. Subsequently, after about a month, it stayed on continuously. I am not anxious to replace the air bag, but I would like to get the light off.
A. If the light is on, your air bag may not deploy properly. You need to get it to the dealer. Just because the air bag light is on, does not mean that the air bag needs replacement. The most common cause is a defective sensor or switch. Both are inexpensive to replace. Be safe and get this looked at as soon as possible.
Air conditioner, R12
Q. My AC uses R12. Will it continue to be available?
A. Freon R12 is not environmentally friendly and has been replaced in newer cars by R134a. There are a few shops that still have R12, but you will have to look hard. It is expensive--you can figure on anywhere from $100-$250 per pound. The average car will need about 1.5 pounds.
There is an alternative. The process for converting to R134a has come a long way, and vehicles can be swapped over for roughly the same price as having them refilled with R12. The performance differences are minimal if any. If you plan on keeping your car, have it converted. Then you will know that if a problem arises later, there will be no trouble having it serviced. Talk to your local garage or dealership and see what they can do for you. Things are changing all the time with the refrigerants.
Q. My trusty older car's air conditioning needs servicing. The shop recommended conversion from the existing R-12 to an R-134a system, claiming it's better for the environment and "will save money on future A/C services". Is this true, and is $450 reasonable?
A. If you plan on keeping the car for any period of time, converting to R134A is recommended. When they service the A/C they should take care of any leaks in the system. Their claim of "better for the environment" and "will save money on future repairs" is true. You may also want to talk to the dealer or A/C repair specialist to get a second opinion on the price of the conversion. The $450 quote seems high.
Alignment
Q. Just what is an alignment? How do I know when I need one without waiting for the signs to show up in the tires?
A. An alignment determines how straight the wheels are in relation to the car. If they are not set to the factory specifications, the car will generally wear tires unevenly, or may pull when driving. Alignment should be done whenever the tires are wearing unevenly, if the vehicle pulls to one side, and/or when new tires are put on a car. Improper tire pressure can cause these problems as well. This link illustrates some specifics: www.justtires.com/services/wheelTerms.html .
Belt terminology
Q. What's the difference between drive belts, timing belts, and micro-V belts?
A. Drive belts are the belts that turn all the accessories on your engine such as the water pump, alternator, power steering pump and AC compressor.
Timing belts are cogged belts that most commonly drive your camshaft, but in some cases also drive the oil pump, water pump and balancer shafts. These belts are usually hidden behind covers and require a substantially longer time to replace than drive belts. Normally they do not need replacement untill 60,000 - 90,000 miles.
V-belts are a type of drive belt. They are triangular in shape, and are often found on older cars. There are typically 2-3 belts of this type in a well equipped car.
Newer cars have serpentine belts, another style of drive belt. Typically, just one of these will run all the accessories on an engine. These are flat and usually have 4-6 ribs on the drive surface.
Brake and steering-fluid flush
Q. My mechanic says that my brake and power steering fluids are "discolored" and need to be flushed. Is this necessary?
A. Flushing these fluids is a good idea and you should have it done, especially in the case of the brakes.
Brake pads
Q. Is it worth it to buy special brake pads like Wagner Thermoquiet or Apex Kevlar?
A. The best way to go is to always use original equipment pads. If that is not an option, I have had very good luck using ceramic aftermarket pads.
Brake pads, ceramic/non-ceramic
Q. What brake pads should I use, ceramic/non-ceramic?
A. My feeling on brake pads for a stock vehicle is that if the original equipment pads served you well, go with them again. Many times, changing to something other than OE (original equipment) pads, will cause you to run into problems, such as noise or excessive dusting.
Brakes, improving
Q. What's the best way to provide a significant reduction in braking distance?
A. Installing a set of high-performance pads is a cost effective way to improve braking distance. Remember though, every change from stock will have an effect that may not be desirable. The most common thing with high performance pads is that either the pad will wear out very quickly and cause heavy amounts of brake dust to collect on your wheels, or you will get premature wear of the brake rotors. If you can live with this, it is probably the best way to go.
Other modifications such as slotted or crossed-drilled rotors will offer no advantage other than better looks for a street-driven vehicle. Lighter wheels will help, but the difference will be so small that it is not worth the major expense of wheel replacement.
Brakes, uneven pad wear
Q. My inside brake pad is down to almost nothing while the outside pad is almost new. Does this mean the calipers are bad?
A. The calipers are not sliding properly. Many brake calipers have a single-piston design. When the caliper is working correctly, the piston moves out and applies pressure to the inside pad which then moves the entire caliper against the outside pad. If the caliper sticks, pressure is applied only against the inside pad. Check the caliper. Clean and lubricate the slide points with the proper high-temperature lubricant. If any of the slides or parts of the caliper are worn or pitted, install new calipers, including pads and hardware.
Brakes, where to repair
Q. Where should I get my brakes repaired?
A. The dealer is always your best bet to maintain original performance, though this is not always the cheapest route. If you choose not to use the dealer, make sure the garage uses brand name parts like NAPA or Wagner.
Check-engine light
Q. My check-engine light stays on. Is it OK to ignore it if the car is running fine?
A. A check-engine light indicates that something is going wrong in the car's computer management system or with the emissions controls. It could be as simple as a loose gas cap or it may be something like an oxygen sensor. When the check-engine light comes on, a retrievable code is saved. Bring your car in and have it diagnosed on a scan tool to determine the cause of the problem. If your mechanic does not have the proper scan tool to diagnose the problem, you may want to try somewhere else.
CV boot cracks
Q. I just discovered that I have a cracked CV boot. What are the possible causes for this problem?
A. At early mileage, the most likely cause is hitting something in the road. On an older car it is aging of the rubber. When the boot cracks, the grease inside can then get thrown by centrifugal force and water can be let in from the rain and wet roads. Lack of grease or water in the joint can cause wear and tear on the joint that the boot protects. The car will not break down from driving the way it is, but keep driving to a minimum until it is fixed.
Q. My CV boots are cracked and it will cost a lot to replace them. Is it worth fixing them, and what will happen if I don't?
A. When the boots split, the grease inside is thrown out by centrifugal force. It then ends up all over the engine and, in some cases, on the brake components. The loss of lubricant will ruin the CV (constant velocity) axle joint requiring a new or rebuilt axle. Most boot replacements are to the outer boots, as they take the most abuse. The cost should be $80.00 - $90.00 per axle. Some shops have a quick boot system for quick/inexpensive replacement, but complete replacement is preferable.
Diagnostic codes
Q. Why won't the dealer give me the diagnostic codes?
A. Dealerships usually do not provide codes to the owner. This is mainly because the codes can be ambiguous without further diagnosis. For instance, if you received a code for an EGR valve failure it may not be the EGR valve. It could be the vacuum to the EGR, heavy deposits below the EGR, or a controller failure for the EGR.
If the manufacturer were to display the code, say for an EGR valve failure, the average consumer would probably run out, buy an EGR valve and replace it. Then, when the problem was not resolved, blame would fall on the computer diagnostics.
Diagnostic codes are only the beginning of solving a problem and that is where a good, skilled technician comes into play. Most dealerships now record anything that has gone wrong with a vehicle on their system. The information is shared with other dealers to help identify and solve common problems. By being reluctant to divulge the codes, dealers and garages are really not hiding anything. Their goal is to repair what is really wrong (and they should tell you what it was).
Dog scratches
Q. A dog scratched the door of my new car with its paws/nails. Most seem to be on the surface. Do you have any advice regarding buffing out the scratches?
A. Start with a polishing compound and see how well the scratches rub out. If the scratches go deeper, move to a rubbing compound. If that still does not remove them, it may be worth a trip to a body shop to see if they can get them out.
Engine code reader/analyzer
Q. I am interested in purchasing an engine analyzer/code reader to help me locate and repair problems on my car. What would you suggest I look for?
A. Almost any OBD II-compliant reader will be fine for the basics. The main clue to solving problems is the code. From there you can do an Internet search and find test procedures and possible causes for a code. The more money you spend, the more information you will get, but you have to weigh that against your knowledge of modern computer systems, the number of times you'll use it, and the cost of getting the car repaired at a garage. You can buy a very simple device for OBD II applications for about $100 and, and for home use, you will probably be happy. You can go WAY beyond that. A full-featured device, that can do recording, is at least $600-$800 or more.
Exhaust-system repairs
Q. What's the best place to get exhaust-system repairs?
A. Your regular mechanic or muffler shop should be more than capable of dealing with a repair properly. Let them know you are looking to get the work done in the most cost efficient but proper way, so that it will last. Ask if they can show you what needs to be repaired when the car is in the air being inspected. This will force the shop to show you the damage and give you a better explanation as to why it costs what it does. If you feel the price is too high, you may want to get a quote from another shop.
You should replace all the pipes that are perforated or rusted through. There may be other parts that need to be replaced, depending on the location of welding joints, and on what can be saved.
Gasoline line repair
Q. My car is now about 15 years old and my gas line has a tiny pinhole leak. Can a rubber line be used instead of steel?
A. If it is a metal line you are replacing, it should be replaced with a metal line that has been flared and reconnected to the best part of the old fuel line. I do not recommend that it be replaced with a rubber fuel line. If you do use rubber, it should be double-clamped using fuel-injection clamps and a fuel-injection hose no more than 6 inches long. If you are repairing a plastic line, there are special repair parts that can be purchased at any major auto parts store.
Grease fittings
Q. My new car does not have grease fittings on the chassis. Should I have these installed or am I "good to go"?
A. Most cars within the last ten years have stopped using grease fittings. The parts all handle 100,000 + miles just fine. The materials and tolerances are much better today, and it is just not necessary. So, yes, you are good to go.
Rotor, early wear
Q. My car has only 25K miles on it. The brake pads are still in good shape, but my front rotors need turning and the rears need to be replaced. Everything is original. Is this normal?
A. It is not normal. If the rotors are worn too thin and are scarred, I would ask for the rotors to be replaced under warranty. You will probably have to pay for the pads. If your dealer balks, it might not be a bad idea to get a second opinion. Maybe there is another dealer close enough who is willing to do a little more for you.
Shock absorbers leaking-replace?
Q. All 4 shocks on my vehicle are leaking fluid. Should I replace them, and what factors should I consider when choosing replacements?
A. To answer your first question, yes, you should definitely replace them. Be sure to replace all four at the same time. I never recommend changing just the front or just the rear. The vehicle was designed as a system and all four corners work together to give the vehicle good handling.
Second question, we have not done any formal testing of shocks recently, but go with a well-known brand name. I have always had good luck with Monroe, but there are others that work well. Most companies make several lines of shocks tailored to your needs, such as heavy-duty shocks, or ride-comfort-type shocks. A local auto parts store such as Napa can explain the different styles they carry, and their benefits.
Signal lights
Q. My signal lights blink fast on one side. Should I replace the flasher?
A. If it is flashing faster on one side it is probably not the flasher. Normally there is one flasher that controls both sides. If it is at fault it usually affects both sides. Turn on the faulty signal side and look at every light that comes on. Mark them down if you have to. Often, the manufacturers have a small side light in the system or two bulbs side by side, and one can be easily overlooked. If all appear to work, check the individual bulbs, beginning with the last bulb replaced. Check to see that each bulb is the correct wattage for that socket, and check all grounds.
Spark plugs
Q. Should I replace my factory-original spark plugs with iridium spark plugs? What benefits should I expect to see?
A. The original factory plugs are specifically designed with your engine in mind. Most aftermarket plugs are a "this-fits-all" design. Today's spark plugs are excellent, and last a long time. I see no worthwhile gain from expensive alternatives.
Struts
Q. One of my struts has failed. Can I just replace it with a used one?
A. Struts should always be replaced in pairs. Typically when two are shot, they all are. I am not a big fan of used struts and highly recommend new ones. This will put your car back to the original level of performance. Cars are designed as a system. If you sacrifice in this area it will have an effect on safety. This is the only way to get it done properly.
Suspension, modifying
Q. We sometimes carry around a lot of cargo, pushing, and sometimes even exceeding, the stated load limit on our vehicle. My dealer suggests installing heavy-duty springs. An independent alignment shop suggests installing air-adjustable shocks. Would those actually increase the load capacity?
A. Air shocks may level the ride, but I do not recommend them. The manufacturer sets a limit on the vehicle with careful consideration as to how much the vehicle can carry. The load capacity of your vehicle also has to do with how safely it can pull the load without putting strain on the drive train, and how well the vehicle can safely stop with the load you are carrying. If you exceed the capacity of your vehicle, the only proper way to remedy the situation is to move to a vehicle that can safely and properly carry the load you intend to haul.
Transmission seal leak
Q. The transmission seals on my car are starting to leak. I was going to try a can of a stop- leak product but the owner's manual says that it is serviceable by the dealer. Am I at the mercy of the dealership?
A. Stop-leak products can cause more harm than good. Your best bet is going to be a transmission shop, or the dealer.
Wheel alignment and balancing
Q. Should wheel alignment and balancing be performed whenever the tires are rotated? If not, how often should the wheels be aligned and balanced?
A. The wheels should be aligned whenever the tires are replaced with new ones. If your tires are wearing unevenly and it is not due to improper tire inflation, then alignment should be done right away. Balancing does not need to be done unless you are having problems with wheel vibration.
Wheel rim, cracked
Q. I have a wheel that is leaking air due to a cracked rim. I was given three options: buy a new rim; have the rim repaired; go to the junkyard. Is repairing the rim a good option, or should I just buy a new rim? I wouldn't trust my ability to buy a safe rim from a yard.
A. If you are not sure you can get a good rim from the salvage yard, a new rim is your best bet. There are companies that can repair a wheel properly and some who can't. Most wheel repair companies do a good job of straightening lips on rims when they are bent, but because yours is cracked, I would avoid it altogether. Your safety is at stake. Go with the new rim.
Windshield repair
Q. Do professional repairs made to windshields using acrylic resin last?
A. We have had many of our test vehicle windows repaired when they were chipped. The repairs have been good but not perfect. If a chip is in your line of vision I would replace the windshield because you will always know it is there. Finally, if there is a crack or potential crack I would not waste your time with repairing it either.
Windshield scratches
Q. Can windshields be polished to remove scratches or is it better to replace the windshield?
A. Light scratches can be removed with a little abrasive toothpaste and a soft cloth. For heavier scratches, replacement is recommended.
TROUBLE-SHOOTING
Automatic transmission slippage
Q. My automatic transmission slips. What can I do?
A. Many times when a transmission slips between gears it is due to a clutch band. Normally these can be adjusted. On some, the adjustment is external and can be done quickly. Other transmissions need to have the fluid drained and must be worked on from the inside. This is usually not a major repair, but it is something you should bring to either a transmission shop or the dealer. This is something that should be taken care of right away. If you wait, you are less likely to save the transmission. I feel it is well worth having it looked at before deciding to get rid of the car.
Bad smell from A/C
Q. I have a strong vinegar smell coming from my A/C when it is blowing. I have heard a "kitty litter" smell could develop from bacteria inside the A/C. Is there something I could pour or squirt into the vents or through some other opening.
A. We have not done any testing on any products, but your local auto parts store should be able to help you out. You also might try Lysol--some subscribers report good results.
Battery won't keep charge
Q. I use my car approximately 30 miles a month. The stock battery seems to have difficulty maintaining a charge under these conditions. I have been contemplating installing an Optima "Red Top," but at the going price of $140 each, I want to know if it is worth the extra cash.
A. If your car sits for long periods of time, the best thing to do is get a triple charger for it. They are inexpensive (around $25-$35) and work well.
Car batteries have a constant drain on them from all the accessories and computers in the car. The batteries are not designed to be run low and then quickly charged back up. Every time this is done it shortens the battery's life. It is possible that the Optima is better than what you have, but it might not solve your problem.
Brakes lock up
Q. What would cause the brakes to lock up and not release?
A. Check the rubber brake hoses. They are just as important as the rest of the braking system and are often overlooked by people who perform the work themselves. The hoses deteriorate from the inside and then cause a clog. Normal brake pedal pressure is enough to get the fluid to pass and get the pistons to clamp down on the brakes, but there may not be enough back-force to release them.
Catalytic converter rattles
Q. I have a rattle in my catalytic converter. Is this a problem?
A. If the noise is coming from the inside of your converter there are broken pieces inside the converter. These can shift around and cause a loss of power or shut the car off altogether. Also, under this condition your catalytic converter is not working to its full potential. You can live with the noise, but it can also lead to more problems down the road.
A catalytic converter can be expensive. If the cost is more than you want to spend right now, then you can keep going until you have a problem or you fail to pass emissions testing. The choice is yours. If you do not want to have to worry about it and can afford a new converter, then I would go for it.
Computer analyzer
Q. I have seen ads for a computer analyzer that can increase engine horse power, or reduce horsepower and increase gas mileage by doing something to the on-board computer. Do these devices work as advertised?
A. Typically, with devices like this you will sacrifice power for fuel economy or vice versa. Most often the changes are minimal. But if you live in an emissions-testing state, this may not be a good idea. Save your money.
Fan belt noise
Q. I recently replaced the Serpentine belt on my wife's car. Now, upon startup, there is a steady squeaking noise coming from the pulley area. The belt is the right size and the tensioner pulley markings show the tension to be in the correct "range."
A. The new belt is probably causing your squeaking noise. Put the old belt back on and see if the problem goes away. Some replacement belts are not the same exact length as the OE (original equipment) belt. If this does not help, you may have a bad bearing.
Front-end clicking
Q. What causes the clicking in my front end on turns?
A. Assuming that you have a front-wheel drive car, it sounds like you have a bad constant velocity shaft. You will get a much better deal at the local repair shop for this. It should run you around $300. I would not let it go too long because if it breaks it will leave you stranded. This is a very common problem with front-wheel drive vehicles that are getting up there in miles.
Gas cap, leaking
Q. My car leaks gas out of the gas cap if I fill it all the way up. At this time I simply fill it up ¾, but I'd like to fix the problem.
A. Make sure the vent tube on your gas tank is not plugged. This could be causing excess pressure in the system. You may need to remove the tank, depending on how the lines are run. Most garages should be able to do this. One caution, the garage may need to replace the gas tank straps, depending on the amount of corrosion.
Gas pedal, sticky
Q. When first starting up my car, the gas pedal is a little stuck. I have to hit the gas harder than I would like to get past the stickiness and get the car moving to back out of my driveway. Is this a common problem? Any fix advice?
A. First thing you need to do is disconnect the throttle cable and isolate whether you have a sticky cable or a sticky throttle body. If it is the throttle body, a cleaning may help. If that does not help, repairs or replacement may be needed. If you are uncomfortable checking things yourself, take it to a mechanic or dealer. A sticky throttle is dangerous and I would get this looked at as soon as possible.
Head gasket
Q. How can I tell if my head gasket is bad?
A. The three major signs of a bad head gasket are oil in the antifreeze, antifreeze in the oil or clouds of white smoke out of the tailpipe. These are the most obvious, but there can be other more minor symptoms. Head-gasket repairs typically run about $500 - $2,000 dollars, depending on whether the cylinder head needs work while it is apart. Basic labor for the job will probably be around $500. I would not worry about it until that time comes. To help prevent damage to the head gasket, make sure you change the oil on time and keep your antifreeze clean by having it flushed and replaced on schedule. Typically, this should be done about every 2 or 3 years.
Heating poor, interior
Q. What can I do to improve my heat in the winter?
A. Make sure your thermostat is working properly. It may be stuck open, and therefore not be allowing the engine to warm up quickly or even stay warm.
Injector clogging
Q. What causes the build-up of deposits on injectors?
A. It is mostly from the fuel itself. Gasoline is a mixture of many different hydrocarbons, including some that are heavy, waxy compounds. When the engine is shut off fuel residue in the injector nozzles evaporates, leaving the waxy compounds behind. Due to residual engine heat these compounds bake into hard varnish deposits. Ultimately, the build-up may clog the injectors.
Noise, how CR tests
Q. Does CR check the level of road and wind noise? It seems many people (like me) are becoming more and more annoyed, and it would be nice to know which cars are the quietest.
A. CR tests every single car for noise, according to four empirical parameters and one subjective judgment. We drive each vehicle:
- On coarse pavement (to measure road noise)
- On smooth pavement (to measure tire noise)
- At highway speed, 70 mph (to measure wind noise
- At wide-open throttle (to measure engine noise
All of these data points create a composite numerical score on a 1-5-point scale, which produces the noise "blob" we publish with our test results. Those that have a "5-blob" (full red donut) are the quietest.
Radio noise
Q. There is a pronounced "whine" that can be heard through the radio that gets louder as the RPM's increase.
A. Check your electrical connections, especially around the alternator and battery. Often it is a poor ground.
Suspension, air-ride
Q. What is the normal life of an air-ride suspension system, and should I get it fixed?
A. Usually around 8-12 years the cars start to develop problems with air-ride systems. There is really no standard length of time they last. It is dependent on amount and type of use. Air-ride systems are expensive to repair, but if the cost to repair is worth it to you, then you will get another 8-12 years out of it. On some models there are conversion kits to get rid of the air system and go back to a standard suspension, which can save a lot of money and problems.
Transmission shifting delay
Q. I have a new van with 25k miles, and almost since it was new I've had trouble with shifting. Unless I accelerate very slowly, there is a delay. What is wrong, and what can I do?
A. This is becoming a common complaint on some new models. Essentially the van has a design flaw. Some people notice it and dislike it, others are less affected. Often a reprogramming of the engine control computer will solve the problem. Call the dealer to see if there is a TSB (technical service bulletin) for programming updates that will help the shift-feel of your van.
Water leaks, AC
Q. Why does my air conditioner leak water?
A. When the air conditioning runs, condensation water from the evaporator drains to the outside through a drain tube. It is located inside the heater box and usually heads out through the firewall or the floor of the car. Check the tube for cracks and also check it for clogs. On an older vehicle, clogs are common and the water will back up and drip onto the carpet.
Water leaks, wet carpet
Q. I have a wet carpet. Where should I look for problems?
A. You need to determine where the leak is starting. If the wetness is just water, I would look at the weather-stripping that seals the doors to make sure it is not dried out, broken or cracked. If your car has a sunroof, make sure it is not leaking. There are drains in the tracks that could be clogged, causing water to run into the car. Also, there are drain plugs in the bottom of the car. You might want to check and make sure that one of those has not fallen out or been damaged. A blocked air conditioning drain is another possibility, especially on an older car.
If the wetness is slick and colored it may be antifreeze. In that case the cause could be a loose fitting or the heater core itself might have failed. Water leaks are not always easy to find, but be persistent. The car will suffer if the leak is not fixed.
Windshield, interior ice
Q. When my car is off it builds up ice on the interior of the windshield during cold weather. Is this normal? I've gone back to the dealer and they say that it is, but I've never seen it on any other cars.
A. You have excess moisture in the car. Check for water under the carpeting. You may have a leak, or it might be just melted snow. You need to dry the interior out. Do not use the re-circulate mode, and set the heater control to direct hot air down. Check the "water-leak" FAQ's (directly above) for some hints on locating the problem.
MISCELLANEOUS MAINTENANCE
Automatic transmission, shift to neutral?
Q. Does it make sense to shift an auto transmission into neutral when stopped, say, at a red light? Will all this shifting help or hurt in the long run? Or does it matter?
A. You will be fine to just leave the car in drive. I don't see any benefit to shifting to neutral, and I also can see some safety issues arising from not being in gear.
Battery chargers, jumper packs
Q. What criteria should I use for selection?
A. Jumper packs are portable and can start just about any piece of equipment you have. If something dies at any distance from an electrical outlet, the jumper pack gives you power to get it running again.
But to revive a discharged battery you need a charger. Get an automatic charger that will charge at 15 - 20 amps in regular mode, and also give you a trickle charge.
With both, you will have the best possible set up.
Battery replacement
Q. Is it wise to replace a car battery after 5 years if we plan to keep the car for a few more years? We would probably need a new one within that time, and this way we could do it at our convenience.
A. A typical battery lasts 4-6 years. If you live in a hot climate it will be a little closer to 4, and in cooler northern climates, 7 is not unheard of. Five years seems to be the average. So, if not getting stranded is of concern, it may be a good time to replace it. By replacing it, at least you know you should be good for another 5 years.
Battery, short trips
Q. I do a lot of short trips (most under 10 minutes each way) on a daily basis. I am concerned that one of these days, I will wake up to find the battery dead.
A. Five to ten minutes should be enough time for the battery to top off. Bigger concerns are the engine collecting moisture, and gasoline in the oil. The engine does not heat enough to remove these contaminants from the oil. Let your car warm up for a longer period of time, or take a little longer trip to get home. Also, be sure to change your oil at the earliest interval recommended by your owner's manual.
Cruise control in rain and ice Q. I heard that that it is dangerous to have the cruise control on in rain and ice, because if the car begins to hydroplane, and the tires lose contact with the pavement your car will accelerate. Is this a legend?
A. Cruise control should not be used in the rain. If the vehicle begins to hydroplane it is very easy to lose control, and the wheels can indeed begin to accelerate. That said, you will not see cars flying through the air unless they run into something that can send them airborne. Some manufacturers like Lexus and others are beginning to automatically disable the cruise control in the rain. Drivers of cars without this feature should use cruise control only when the roads are dry.
Diesel smoke
Q. I've got a new diesel. When I punch the accelerator hard I leave a cloud of blue smoke behind me. Is this normal?
A. Diesels will puff smoke on hard acceleration, and also when cold. A small puff of smoke is normal, but if you are covering the road behind you I would bring it in.
Emergency kit
Q. What should I carry in my car for safety/roadside repairs? I see lots of kits these days, but am not sure what I really need.
A. In the winter, some salt and a shovel are not a bad idea. Make sure they are secure in the vehicle. The best thing to have is a blanket, cell phone, and roadside assistance such as AAA.
Engine reliability
Q. Is it better to get 300 hp from a V8 or can a 4-cylinder turbocharged engine take the stress?
A. A 300-hp V8 is almost always going to be more reliable than a 300-hp turbocharged 4-cylinder. But, the V8 will also be heavier and have to be in a larger vehicle. The whole idea behind vehicles such as the Subaru WRX STI, for example, is to get maximum power in a small, nimble-handling vehicle. You have to ask yourself what you are really looking for, what you are going to do with it, and how long do you plan to keep it?
Engine, warming when cold
Q. How long should an engine be warmed during very cold temperatures? I seem to remember reading that anything more than one minute is unnecessary.
A. 1 to 2 minutes is sufficient to get things going.
Extended warranty
Q. Is an extended warranty advisable?
A. This is a tough subject, and it is hard to give a good answer. If you get one (normally $1,500 or so) and nothing goes wrong, you may get mad for spending the money. But if you experience serious engine or transmission problems you may regret not having made the purchase. The expected reliability of your car is a major factor. Check the CR comparative reliability Ratings. The less reliable a car is, the more likely you are to benefit from an extended warranty.
If you decide to get one, read the fine print on the warranty papers carefully. A common problem with extended warranties is that they are not as broad as the original manufacturer's warranty. For example, brakes may not be covered, so you would have to pay for that in full. Also, many extended programs have a $200 - $300 deductible. Normally a good portion of common repairs will cost less than the deductible. So you may end up paying $200 - $300 repeatedly before the warranty takes over. Again, read the coverage and fine print closely, and think of an extended warranty as catastrophe insurance.
Hail damage
Q. Does anyone know how to repair extensive pit marks left by hail stones? I am worried the repair may not look as good as new.
A. Most likely what will happen is, the hood and trunk will get replaced and the dents in the roof will be pulled out and repaired. In the right hands, the car will look as good as new, but this will not be a cheap repair.
Handling, improved
Q. I would like to reduce the body roll on my car when I turn a corner. Is it better to install the front/rear sway bars first, or replace the stock spring?
A. If you are just looking for a flatter cornering car, I would suggest sway bars and performance shocks. I also recommend that performance shocks be added if you change to a coil-over system. Be sure to get the proper sway bars. Just adding bigger sway bars to the front and back of a car does not mean better handling.
The coil-over system is a better way to go, but it is also much more expensive than the sway bar route. What are you looking for out of the car? If ride is any concern, stay away from the coil-over systems. They are designed with performance in mind, and push aside all thoughts of ride comfort. Also, keep in mind that once you leave the original equipment, when you change one thing you will affect something else.
Idle or shut off the engine?
Q. I am a volunteer driver and have to make frequent stops. Is it better to turn my car off at every single stop? Or leave it idling? If I leave it idling, it's wasting gas. If I shut off the engine, there is extra wear & tear on the engine.
A. For what you are doing, there is no harm being done by shutting off your car. Save your gas.
Life expectancy, older car
Q. When should I pull the plug on an older car?
A. There is no cut and dried answer here. It comes down to how much time you are willing to be off the road for repairs and how much money you are willing to spend to keep yourself on the road. Problems will typically increase as the car gets older. The money you put into it for repairs will generally not increase its value one penny.
A new car will probably prove much more reliable than what you have now. Plus you have the convenience of everything working, and there is usually a comprehensive warranty. However, all that reliability and convenience will come at a price.
These are things you probably already know. But those are the options, and you have to weigh them yourself to come out with the right answer for you. It would be easy for me to say, "go buy a new car and then you won't have to worry" but you have to pay for it, and I do not know your financial situation. Quite possibly a good reliable, newer used car could fit your needs.
Maintenance books
Q. What maintenance publications would you recommended in order to perform basic maintenance and repair?
A. The factory manual is always the best. They are a little pricey but you can often get a deal on EBay. Otherwise, both Haynes and Chilton's publish pretty decent guides (search on the Web by these names + "car repair").
Manufacturer buyback
Q. I purchased a new truck, and after 7 attempts over 8 weeks, dealer and Field Service Engineers could not solve a moderate vibration problem in the vehicle. The manufacturer has agreed to buy back the vehicle, but no one can tell me what this will mean. Would I be better off going through State Lemon Laws?
A. Typically, if the manufacturer is buying the vehicle back, it will work in your favor. Hang tight and wait to see what they offer you, and go from there. There really doesn't seem to be a set of rules for a buyback unless it is done under the Lemon Law. In that case, you would need to check the paperwork that came with the vehicle for details.
OEM, definition
Q. Does OEM mean that the product was produced by the manufacturer's supplier, or is it that it "meets the specification of the original equipment manufacturer"?
A. OE or OEM means that the product should come from the original manufacturer of the part. For example, in the case of a windshield, the windshield should either come from the dealer as a manufacturer's part, or it should come from the original supplier of the windshield, such as Safelite, Temperlite, or whomever else may have produced it for the car maker.
Painting/repainting
Q. What should I be looking for in terms of pricing, materials, and procedures?
A. The methods of repainting your car will vary depending on the amount of prep work needed to make it right. The average cost to have a car re-done is $2,000-$2,500. Your best bet is to ask some local people who they recommend in your area. If you are looking for a good job, stay away from the discount auto body shops.
Recalls
Q. How do I know that all past recall work has been done on a used car?
A. Call any dealer for that make of car, give them the VIN (vehicle identification number) and they will tell you if there are any outstanding recalls.
Recall information, Technical Safety Bulletin (TSB)
Q. I heard that my vehicle has a recall. How do I find out for sure?
A. Call your local dealer and give him the VIN number for your vehicle. They should be able to tell you what recalls there are, and if your car was done or not. If it has not been done, they will take care of it for you
Recall and TSB (Technical Safety Bulletin) information is also available online from NHTSA (National Highway Traffic Safety Administration).
Recalls on an older car
Q. I'd like to buy an older car. However, the NHTSA site shows several recalls. Will the dealer still fix these items free-of-charge?
A. Call any dealer for that make. They will check to see if the recall work has been done already. If not, the dealer should take care of the outstanding work free-of-charge.
Recalls -- who pays?
Q. When you take your car to the dealer shop for any recall, does the consumer pay or the dealer?
A. First, keep in mind that not all cars are included in a particular recall. Call your local dealer and give them your car's VIN (vehicle identification number). They will be able to tell you which recalls apply to your car. The costs for all necessary recall work will be covered by the manufacturer.
Storing a car Q. What should be done to prepare a car that is going to sit unused (garaged) for two months? What should be done before the car is driven again?
A. Put a trickle-charger on the battery. If it is only a couple of months that's all that is necessary. Make sure to get the oil changed when the car is taken out again.
Q. After two years of storage I managed to get my car running with a new battery and fresh gas. Are there any other steps to ensure safe and functional operation of the vehicle?
A. Change the oil and antifreeze. If it's an automatic, check the ATF level. Also, check the levels in the transfer case and rear end. Consider changing fluids if you are close to the recommended service interval. Have the brakes checked by a mechanic. It would also be a good idea to replace the brake fluid. Unless you are familiar with the process, have a professional do it. Check the drive belts, as they may need replacing also. Finally, take a good look at the tires. Make sure that they are properly inflated, and check their age. Look for cracks in the rubber or bulges. Both are signs of potential trouble.
Q. I have a camper that I don't use all winter. I always change the oil just before storing it for the winter and weather permitting, I'll drive it for a few miles every other month or so in the winter. Should I change the oil when I take it out of storage or should I wait until I've driven 3,000 miles since the last oil change?
A. Moisture and fuel can get in the system from just sitting around, and from the short start ups. It is best to warm the engine up completely and then change the oil when you take it out of storage to remove any moisture and fuel from the engine.
Storing a car in winter
Q. I live up north and will be storing a sports car for about 6 months in an unheated garage under a car cover. What should I do for maintenance?
A. Change the oil shortly before storing your vehicle. Get a trickle-charger and let the car charge during the winter months. If you can, drive it for 30 minutes or so every month. If this is not an option, then leaving it up on blocks is not a bad idea. Also, be sure to use fuel stabilizer in the gas tank.
Q. What do I need to do to really winterize a diesel pickup in Alaska?
A. First thing would be to have the coolant checked to make sure it is ready to handle the extreme cold weather. If it is marginal or has not been changed in a couple of years, now is the time to do it.
Second is to add a fuel conditioner. Talk to your local dealer and they can recommend what is right for your truck. You should also install an electric engine-block heater and a battery blanket. Other than that, make sure your battery, tires and spare are up to snuff.
Tools, automotive
Q. How can I find the right tools of the trade, and what is best in terms of value for the money?
A. Here is my opinion on tools. Craftsman makes a great tool at a fraction of the price of what the tool trucks like Snap-on or Mac get. They are an excellent way to get started with a minimal investment. With Craftsman tools you can return them to Sears at any time and get a free replacement. The tool trucks do this as well, but you have to wait for them to get there and hope they have the replacement on the truck. Some special purpose tools, however, will have to be bought from the tool trucks or auto-supply houses.
There are a lot of nice tools on the tool trucks that make things work easier, but you can definitely get carried away with them. I speak from experience. Ask yourself if this tool will make me more profitable, or do the job better. If the answer is no, and you just want it because it is "cool," you might want to pass.
Truck-bed liners
Q. I would like to install a "Rhino"-type bed liner. Are these types of liners worth the cost, and is there a preferred type?
A. Spray-in bed liners are definitely the way to go if you plan to keep the truck for any length of time. We do spray our test vehicles with them. We have tried several and have been happy with all of them. No official testing has been done though.
Look around at the companies available in your area. There are different textures between companies, and it becomes somewhat of a personal preference. There are also some products that can be tinted to match the color of your vehicle. I do not recommend doing this yourself as it can be messy, and the final result may not be as nice.
Q. There are plastic liners, blanket liners, and spray-on liners. Do I need one, and is there really a best one to use?
A. One of the greatest benefits of a bed liner is the protection of the bed area from rust. It is very easy to rub through the factory paint on an unprotected bed and get to bare metal. Plastic bed liners work, but they are very slippery. They tend to slide around and eventually scratch the bed, which then leads to rust. Spray-on bed liners are the best. They offer excellent protection, use anti-skid-type materials, and are extremely rugged. The down side is that most do not repair very well if they are cut through. However, that is usually very rare. At CR we have not done any official testing, but we have had many different types sprayed onto our test trucks. Hands down we have been happiest with Rhino brand spray-in liners. It will run you roughly $500 - $600.
Truck tailgate
Q. My neighbor told me to remove the tailgate of my truck for better mileage. What is your take on this matter?
A. Several years back, CR said that lowering or removing the tailgate gate made only a marginal difference in gas mileage and in most cases simply does not improve mileage. We are still sticking with that report. Also, the tailgate is part of the structure of the vehicle and when removed, makes the bed of the truck weaker.
Vehicle emissions
Q. What do cars sold in California have, or how are they modified, to achieve the better emissions ratings? How does this affect their performance and can a vehicle sold outside California be modified in a similar way?
A. California emissions standards are tighter than in most other states. Currently, all new cars meet California emission standards. In the past, as California raised the standards, manufacturers installed larger catalytic converters, remapped ECM's, changed the timing, and did a few other things to decrease emissions, These changes usually decreased power.
Most older cars can be modified, but the cost would be extreme, and it would be difficult to find a shop to do that kind of work.
Warranty, extended
Q. Is an extended warranty advisable?
A. This is a tough subject, and it is hard to give a good answer. If you get one (normally $1,500 or so) and nothing goes wrong, you may get mad for spending the money. But if you experience serious engine or transmission problems you may regret not having made the purchase. The expected reliability of your car is a major factor. Check the CR comparative reliability Ratings. The less reliable a car is, the more likely you are to benefit from an extended warranty.
If you decide to get one, read the fine print on the warranty papers carefully. A common problem with extended warranties is that they are not as broad as the original manufacturer's warranty. For example, brakes may not be covered, so you would have to pay for that in full. Also, many extended programs have a $200 - $300 deductible. Normally a good portion of common repairs will cost less than the deductible. So you may end up paying $200 - $300 repeatedly before the warranty takes over. Again, read the coverage and fine print closely, and think of an extended warranty as catastrophe insurance.
Warranty, repairs
Q. Will taking my car to locations other than the dealership for standard maintenance void my warranty?
A. As long as you keep records of all maintenance performed, including receipts identifying the car and proving its mileage, you will not void your warranty. Just make sure you are getting good quality parts installed by the garage you choose.
