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Is a projector for you?
For a truly theater-like experience, you can't beat a front projector paired with a screen that measures 100 inches or more
diagonally--about twice the size of most plasma and LCD HDTVs. Image quality is just as good as that of plasmas and LCDs and
prices are now comparable, even when you add the cost of a screen.
A front projector has a lot to offer, but it probably isn't the best choice for everyday viewing--for several reasons.
When you project an image onto a screen or a white wall, ambient light is the enemy. If light falls on the screen, it reduces contrast and washes out the picture. Your best bet is to use a room with blackout window shades to block daylight. Even at night, you have to keep light from nearby lamps from hitting the display surface.
The size and configuration of your room also come into play. As you move the projector farther away from the screen, the image gets larger but dimmer. We found an image size of about 110 inches to be the sweet spot for effectiveness and brightness. To fill that screen size, you'd typically place a projector 10 to 15 feet away. For a 50-inch screen, half that distance should do. (The recommended distances vary by model, as listed in the Ratings, available to subscribers.)
It's especially important that you choose the right position for the projector if you're going to mount it on the ceiling. Be sure to place it at the distance recommended by the manufacturer, angled to prevent the rectangular shape of the image from being distorted. Most models have a "keystoning" feature to compensate for that, but resolution suffers a bit. If you're not mounting the unit, you can put it on a table or other flat surface when in use and store it at other times.
Another factor to consider is where you'll sit to watch TV. Because the projected images are generally much larger than with other types of TVs, you have to sit farther back to see the best picture quality. With an HD projector and a 110-inch screen, the optimal viewing distance is 14 feet or so away from the screen--about three times the height of the display area. If you're too close, the images look a bit coarse, and the viewing angle might be narrower than it is at the recommended distance. If you project a smaller image, you can sit closer.
Consider where you'll put--and how you'll connect--all the components you'll need for your home theater: The cable or satellite box that will serve as the TV tuner, a receiver, amplifier, or sound system, and a standard or high-def DVD player or recorder. Hiding cables and wiring behind walls or above the ceiling will involve some construction, and requires the use of wires rated for that purpose. Be sure to leave enough space around the vents to exhaust heat, as most projector bulbs can generate a lot of it. If the projector will be put on a shelf with a back panel, you might need to look for a model that vents heat out the sides or the front of the projector's housing.
Keep in mind that you'll have to replace the bulb periodically. Claimed life expectancy is 2,000 to 3,000 hours. You'll hit that point in about two years if the TV is turned on for four hours a day. A bulb costs about $350. Changing the bulb is fairly simple, but if you prefer to have a professional do it for you, figure on $200 or so for labor.
When figuring out your space needs, don't forget the screen. We used a 110-inch Da-Lite screen, which cost $400. It has a matte-finished viewing surface 4½ feet high by 8 feet wide. There are screens with more reflective finishes (called gain) designed to enhance contrast. They can improve the brightness of the image, but they might have a narrower viewing angle than matte screens.
There are several types of screen designs. A fix-mount screen permanently attaches to a wall. Manual and electric retractable screens can be mounted on a wall or ceiling and then lowered when you want to watch a movie. Floor-standing screens can be put away between uses. Alternatively, you can use a flat, smooth wall treated with special paint (such as Screen Goo, sold through home-electronics retailers), but the image might not look as good as it would on a screen.
A front projector has a lot to offer, but it probably isn't the best choice for everyday viewing--for several reasons.
When you project an image onto a screen or a white wall, ambient light is the enemy. If light falls on the screen, it reduces contrast and washes out the picture. Your best bet is to use a room with blackout window shades to block daylight. Even at night, you have to keep light from nearby lamps from hitting the display surface.
The size and configuration of your room also come into play. As you move the projector farther away from the screen, the image gets larger but dimmer. We found an image size of about 110 inches to be the sweet spot for effectiveness and brightness. To fill that screen size, you'd typically place a projector 10 to 15 feet away. For a 50-inch screen, half that distance should do. (The recommended distances vary by model, as listed in the Ratings, available to subscribers.)
It's especially important that you choose the right position for the projector if you're going to mount it on the ceiling. Be sure to place it at the distance recommended by the manufacturer, angled to prevent the rectangular shape of the image from being distorted. Most models have a "keystoning" feature to compensate for that, but resolution suffers a bit. If you're not mounting the unit, you can put it on a table or other flat surface when in use and store it at other times.
Another factor to consider is where you'll sit to watch TV. Because the projected images are generally much larger than with other types of TVs, you have to sit farther back to see the best picture quality. With an HD projector and a 110-inch screen, the optimal viewing distance is 14 feet or so away from the screen--about three times the height of the display area. If you're too close, the images look a bit coarse, and the viewing angle might be narrower than it is at the recommended distance. If you project a smaller image, you can sit closer.
Consider where you'll put--and how you'll connect--all the components you'll need for your home theater: The cable or satellite box that will serve as the TV tuner, a receiver, amplifier, or sound system, and a standard or high-def DVD player or recorder. Hiding cables and wiring behind walls or above the ceiling will involve some construction, and requires the use of wires rated for that purpose. Be sure to leave enough space around the vents to exhaust heat, as most projector bulbs can generate a lot of it. If the projector will be put on a shelf with a back panel, you might need to look for a model that vents heat out the sides or the front of the projector's housing.
Keep in mind that you'll have to replace the bulb periodically. Claimed life expectancy is 2,000 to 3,000 hours. You'll hit that point in about two years if the TV is turned on for four hours a day. A bulb costs about $350. Changing the bulb is fairly simple, but if you prefer to have a professional do it for you, figure on $200 or so for labor.
When figuring out your space needs, don't forget the screen. We used a 110-inch Da-Lite screen, which cost $400. It has a matte-finished viewing surface 4½ feet high by 8 feet wide. There are screens with more reflective finishes (called gain) designed to enhance contrast. They can improve the brightness of the image, but they might have a narrower viewing angle than matte screens.
There are several types of screen designs. A fix-mount screen permanently attaches to a wall. Manual and electric retractable screens can be mounted on a wall or ceiling and then lowered when you want to watch a movie. Floor-standing screens can be put away between uses. Alternatively, you can use a flat, smooth wall treated with special paint (such as Screen Goo, sold through home-electronics retailers), but the image might not look as good as it would on a screen.
