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Sparkling wines
Drink a toast to good value

A flute of sparkling wine
DID YOU KNOW? Sparkling wines pair well with hors d'oeuvres, soup and salad, mild cheeses, and light desserts. They can also serve as an aperitif or a counterpoint to a heavier main course of fish or fowl. Three inexpensive, fruity wines we tried, the Yellow Tail, Andre, and Tott's, would complement spicy Chinese or Thai food.
Here's something to celebrate: You needn't spend $40 for a very good sparkling wine. Two of the pricier, big-name Champagnes were bested by sparkling wines costing as little as $10.

Our Ratings (available to subscribers) of sparkling wines are based on blind tastings conducted by two outside experts who sampled authentic Champagnes and sparkling white wines in the same style. Strictly speaking, Champagne must be made in the Champagne region of France, using that area's grapes, according to regulations that also call for two fermentations.

Sham-pagne and the officially sanctioned stuff are often made using the same methods, and sometimes they're made by the same companies. LVMH, for instance, owns Napa's Domaine Chandon and France's Moet & Chandon.

What we found. "France" on the label doesn't always mean great bubbly in the glass. Our top two sparkling wines are produced in California. Several of the lower-rated products, including one of the most expensive, varied in quality from bottle to bottle.

Many Champagnes and sparkling wines lack a vintage, which means that there's no year listed on their labels. As a result, it's difficult to know how long they've been sitting on a shelf, which is probably why some bottles of some brands of sparkling wines we tasted had stale, oxidized flavors. Whatever your choice, buy sparkling wine from a high-volume store with quick turnover to better your chances of getting a fresh bottle (Ratings are available to subscribers only).