July 2006
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Taste-off: The battle of the burgers
A juicy hamburger is one of life’s guilty pleasures. But is the pleasure worth the guilt? We had two expert tasters order hamburgers at four chains known for burgers or beef: The Capital Grille, Ruby Tuesday, Outback Steakhouse, and Hard Rock Cafe. For comparison, tasters also ordered from Fuddrucker’s (it has no wait staff so is not in the Ratings), which professes to sell “the world’s greatest hamburgers.” Our experts visited two restaurants from each chain and asked for cheeseless burgers cooked to medium. Now for the guilty part: We also analyzed burgers for fat and sodium and calculated calories.

The Capital Grille’s burger was excellent. The others were very good, though they tasted slightly different from one another. Fuddrucker’s was a bit less tasty than the rest, with a fattier flavor. But at about $5, it’s also cheapest.

Our nutrition figures include burger and roll--no condiments, garnish, cheese, or fries. Keep in mind that for a typical 2,000-calorie daily diet, federal agencies suggest a maximum of 65 grams of fat and 2,300 milligrams of sodium. So some of these burgers provide almost half the calories, more than half the fat, and about a third of the sodium suggested for the entire day. The clear conclusion: Guilt should restrict most people to an occasional burger.

Price is to the nearest 25 cents, weight to the nearest ounce. Numbers are based on an average of four burgers from each chain.

EXCELLENT VERY GOOD VERY GOOD VERY GOOD
The Capital Grille Burger

The Capital Grille Burger
 
Price: $11.50
Weight: 10 1/2 oz.
Calories: 845
Fat: 47 g
Sodium: 945 mg

Very beefy and flavorful pan-seared patty. Juicy, tender, and ­well-seasoned with sweet onion and bacon bits mixed into the meat. Served on a lightly buttered roll topped with caramelized onion bits.
Ruby Tuesday Plain Jane Burger

Ruby Tuesday Plain Jane Burger
 
Price: $7
Weight: 9 oz.
Calories: 838
Fat: 50 g
Sodium: 546 mg

Very beefy, tender, moderately juicy pan-seared burger. Fresh ingredients blend well yet have distinct flavors. Slightly sweet, toasted wheat bun.
Outback Steakhouse The Outbacker

Outback Steakhouse The Outbacker
 
Price: $8.75
Weight: 11 oz.
Calories: 784
Fat: 45 g
Sodium: 750 mg

Finely ground beef; tender, moderately juicy pan-seared burger. Messy; hard to keep chopped onion and lettuce from falling out. Flavorful, lightly toasted white-bread roll.
Hard Rock Cafe Burger

Hard Rock Cafe
Burger
 
Price: $9
Weight: 7 oz.
Calories: 555
Fat: 29 g
Sodium: 516 mg

Beefy; big char-grilled flavor in a moderately juicy and tender patty that is very lightly seasoned. Lightly buttered and toasted white-bread bun topped with toasted sesame seeds.


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