Installation and upkeep
Check your water heater. You’ll need one that can heat the equivalent of 75 percent of a whirlpool’s volume--roughly 50 gallons for a typical 70-gallon
tub. Gas heaters usually provide more hot water than comparable electric heaters; with either type, you might want more capacity
for other demands.
Inspect the floor. A 400-pound cast-iron tub is likely to need added floor support. You might need it even for a lighter acrylic tub if you’re
changing the tub’s location. Hire an engineer or contractor for an assessment.
Check the power. Most tubs use a dedicated, 15-amp electrical circuit, but some need 20 amps. Check with the manufacturer.
Check water level for water-jets. Some models have sensors that turn off the pump when the water level is too low. But on many, too little water can damage
the pump.
Flush it at least twice monthly. The 10-minute process helps prevent bacterial buildup and involves cycling low-foaming detergent and bleach through the system.
Clean with care. Don’t use abrasive cleaners on acrylic, and use them sparingly on cast-iron tubs.
Using it safely
Install grab bars. Tub slips and falls have accounted for more than 500 deaths since 1985. While the Waterworks was the only tested tub without
antislip surfacing, it was also the only one claimed to meet the voluntary industry standard for slip-resistance. But meeting
it is relatively easy. Mount at least one grab bar on the wall closest to where you’ll enter and exit the tub. Also consider
stick-on antislip strips for the tub.
Don’t overbathe. More than 15 minutes can cause hyperthermia, in which higher body temperature can cause a fatal drop in blood pressure.