April 2005
Buying advice Pots & Pans
Nonstick pots and pans are easy to clean. Uncoated cookware is often more durable. Your best bet might be some of each
Is boiling water the extent of your kitchen prowess or do you routinely take on much more challenging tasks? Could you work
in the kitchen of a five-star restaurant or are you
a culinary klutz? How you answer those questions is a good gauge of the price range for the cookware you need.
WHAT'S AVAILABLE
Farberware, Calphalon, Revere, and T-Fal are the most widely sold brands. Commercial-style brands include All-Clad and Calphalon. TV's celebrity chef Emeril Lagasse is mixing it up in the cookware market with Emerilware (made by All-Clad). Other more recent entrants in the cookware field include the appliance maker KitchenAid and the knife maker Henckels.
Choices abound. You can find aluminum, stainless steel, copper, cast iron, tempered glass, or porcelain on carbon steel; nonstick, porcelain-coated, or uncoated; lightweight or heavy-duty commercial-style; handles of metal, plastic, or wood.
Commercial-style cookware is typically made of aluminum or stainless steel. Cooking enthusiasts will appreciate the fact that these sturdy pots and pans are built to conduct heat evenly up the sides and that their riveted metal handles can be put to hard use. A stovetop grill pan often has raised ridges that sear meat and vegetables. Basic sets of cookware can be supplemented with individual pieces from open stock.
Price range: $50 or less for a low-end set; less than $100 to $ 200 for midlevel; $200 and up for high-end or commercial-style.
IMPORTANT FEATURES
The most versatile materials for pots and pans are the most common ones: aluminum and stainless steel. Aluminum, when it's sufficiently heavy-gauge, heats quickly and evenly. On the other hand, thin-gauge aluminum, besides heating unevenly, is prone to denting and warping. Anodized aluminum is an excellent conductor of heat and is relatively lightweight; it's durable, but easily stained and not dishwasher-safe. Enamel-coated aluminum, typically found in low-end lines, can chip easily.
Stainless steel can go in the dishwasher, but it conducts and retains heat poorly. It's usually layered over aluminum. Some stainless-steel pots have a bottom with a copper or aluminum core.
You might want some cast-iron or tempered-glass pieces. Cast iron is slow to heat and cool, but it handles high temperatures well, and it's great for stews or Cajun-style blackening. Tempered glass breaks easily and cooks unevenly on the stove, but it can go directly from the freezer to the stove, oven, broiler, or microwave--and then on to the table.
Copper heats and cools quickly, ideal when temperature control is important. It's good for, say, making caramel sauce. Provided that it's kept polished, copper looks great hanging on a kitchen wall or from the ceiling. Because copper reacts with acidic foods such as tomatoes, it's usually lined with stainless steel or tin, which may blister and wear out over time. Solid-copper cookware, thin-gauge or heavy-gauge, is expensive.
Introduced on cookware some 40 years ago, the first nonstick coatings were thin and easily scratched. Nonsticks have greatly improved, but still shouldn't be used with metal utensils or very high heat. To improve durability, some manufacturers use a thicker nonstick coating or pair such coatings with ceramic titanium. Many nonstick pots and pans aren't meant for the dishwasher, but they're easy to wash by hand.
There are some advantages to uncoated cookware. It's dishwasher-safe, it can handle metal utensils, and it's good for browning. Uncoated cookware is also better when you want food to stick a little--say, when you want particles of meat left behind in a pan after sautéing so you can make a flavorful pan sauce. Porcelain coatings are easy to maintain and they're tough (although they can be chipped).
Handles are typically made from tubular stainless steel, cast stainless steel, heat-resistant plastic, or wood. Solid metal handles are unwieldy but sturdy. Solid or hollow metal handles can get hot but can go from stovetop to broiler without damage. (Check the label first; some can warp or discolor when used that way.) Lightweight plastic handles won't get as hot as metal ones, but can't go in ovens above 350° F--and they occasionally break. While wooden handles stay cool, they can't go in the oven or dishwasher. And they may deteriorate over time. Handles are either welded, screwed, or riveted onto cookware. Riveted handles are the strongest. Some sets have removable handles that are used with different pieces, but we've found that the handles may fit with some pieces better than others.
Cookware with a specific shape simplifies certain cooking tasks. A skillet with flared sides aids sautéing or flipping omelets. Straight sides are better for frying. Flat bottoms work well on an electric range, especially a smoothtop.
HOW TO CHOOSE
Most Americans opt for nonstick pots and pans to reduce the need for elbow grease when cleaning up. But uncoated cookware is better for browning and can stand up metal utensils.
Consider looking for sets rather than individual pieces. Sets offer a better price, though you don’t get to choose the pieces. Sets generally have five pieces in common: a stockpot with lid, a 2- to 3-quart saucepan with lid, and a 9.5- to 11-inch frypan. Most have at least one or two other components--a small omelette pan or another saucepan and lid. Choose a set with pots and pans that best match your cooking style. Then, once you have a serviceable cookware set, you can add individual pieces of different materials or sizes.
Consider comfort. While commercial-style sets are sturdy, they’re also relatively heavy and their metal handles get hot. “Hand weigh” pieces as you shop, and imagine how they will feel when full. You might be happier using lightweight pots and pans with comfortable plastic handles that stay better insulated from the heat.
Nonstick pots and pans are easy to clean. Uncoated cookware is often more durable. Your best bet might be some of each
a culinary klutz? How you answer those questions is a good gauge of the price range for the cookware you need.
WHAT'S AVAILABLE
Farberware, Calphalon, Revere, and T-Fal are the most widely sold brands. Commercial-style brands include All-Clad and Calphalon. TV's celebrity chef Emeril Lagasse is mixing it up in the cookware market with Emerilware (made by All-Clad). Other more recent entrants in the cookware field include the appliance maker KitchenAid and the knife maker Henckels.
Choices abound. You can find aluminum, stainless steel, copper, cast iron, tempered glass, or porcelain on carbon steel; nonstick, porcelain-coated, or uncoated; lightweight or heavy-duty commercial-style; handles of metal, plastic, or wood.
Commercial-style cookware is typically made of aluminum or stainless steel. Cooking enthusiasts will appreciate the fact that these sturdy pots and pans are built to conduct heat evenly up the sides and that their riveted metal handles can be put to hard use. A stovetop grill pan often has raised ridges that sear meat and vegetables. Basic sets of cookware can be supplemented with individual pieces from open stock.
Price range: $50 or less for a low-end set; less than $100 to $ 200 for midlevel; $200 and up for high-end or commercial-style.
IMPORTANT FEATURES
The most versatile materials for pots and pans are the most common ones: aluminum and stainless steel. Aluminum, when it's sufficiently heavy-gauge, heats quickly and evenly. On the other hand, thin-gauge aluminum, besides heating unevenly, is prone to denting and warping. Anodized aluminum is an excellent conductor of heat and is relatively lightweight; it's durable, but easily stained and not dishwasher-safe. Enamel-coated aluminum, typically found in low-end lines, can chip easily.
Stainless steel can go in the dishwasher, but it conducts and retains heat poorly. It's usually layered over aluminum. Some stainless-steel pots have a bottom with a copper or aluminum core.
You might want some cast-iron or tempered-glass pieces. Cast iron is slow to heat and cool, but it handles high temperatures well, and it's great for stews or Cajun-style blackening. Tempered glass breaks easily and cooks unevenly on the stove, but it can go directly from the freezer to the stove, oven, broiler, or microwave--and then on to the table.
Copper heats and cools quickly, ideal when temperature control is important. It's good for, say, making caramel sauce. Provided that it's kept polished, copper looks great hanging on a kitchen wall or from the ceiling. Because copper reacts with acidic foods such as tomatoes, it's usually lined with stainless steel or tin, which may blister and wear out over time. Solid-copper cookware, thin-gauge or heavy-gauge, is expensive.
Introduced on cookware some 40 years ago, the first nonstick coatings were thin and easily scratched. Nonsticks have greatly improved, but still shouldn't be used with metal utensils or very high heat. To improve durability, some manufacturers use a thicker nonstick coating or pair such coatings with ceramic titanium. Many nonstick pots and pans aren't meant for the dishwasher, but they're easy to wash by hand.
There are some advantages to uncoated cookware. It's dishwasher-safe, it can handle metal utensils, and it's good for browning. Uncoated cookware is also better when you want food to stick a little--say, when you want particles of meat left behind in a pan after sautéing so you can make a flavorful pan sauce. Porcelain coatings are easy to maintain and they're tough (although they can be chipped).
Handles are typically made from tubular stainless steel, cast stainless steel, heat-resistant plastic, or wood. Solid metal handles are unwieldy but sturdy. Solid or hollow metal handles can get hot but can go from stovetop to broiler without damage. (Check the label first; some can warp or discolor when used that way.) Lightweight plastic handles won't get as hot as metal ones, but can't go in ovens above 350° F--and they occasionally break. While wooden handles stay cool, they can't go in the oven or dishwasher. And they may deteriorate over time. Handles are either welded, screwed, or riveted onto cookware. Riveted handles are the strongest. Some sets have removable handles that are used with different pieces, but we've found that the handles may fit with some pieces better than others.
Cookware with a specific shape simplifies certain cooking tasks. A skillet with flared sides aids sautéing or flipping omelets. Straight sides are better for frying. Flat bottoms work well on an electric range, especially a smoothtop.
HOW TO CHOOSE
Most Americans opt for nonstick pots and pans to reduce the need for elbow grease when cleaning up. But uncoated cookware is better for browning and can stand up metal utensils.
Consider looking for sets rather than individual pieces. Sets offer a better price, though you don’t get to choose the pieces. Sets generally have five pieces in common: a stockpot with lid, a 2- to 3-quart saucepan with lid, and a 9.5- to 11-inch frypan. Most have at least one or two other components--a small omelette pan or another saucepan and lid. Choose a set with pots and pans that best match your cooking style. Then, once you have a serviceable cookware set, you can add individual pieces of different materials or sizes.
Consider comfort. While commercial-style sets are sturdy, they’re also relatively heavy and their metal handles get hot. “Hand weigh” pieces as you shop, and imagine how they will feel when full. You might be happier using lightweight pots and pans with comfortable plastic handles that stay better insulated from the heat.
