Compare Kitchen Cookware Features

Cookware Buying Guide

The spate of cooking shows on TV might tempt you to replace your tired pots and pans. But don't think the most expensive cookware is the best. Some chef-endorsed sets were among the highest-priced we tested, and they didn't do as well as brands that were far less expensive.

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Features

Will a $300 set of cookware, possibly bearing the name of a well-known chef, make your meals twice as tasty as a $150 set? Not according to our tests of nonstick and uncoated cookware. But there are some cookware features you should consider.

'Infused' materials | Glass lids | Handles | Safety | Celebrity endorsement

'Infused' materials

Calphalon One cookware uses "infused" anodized aluminum, in which the cookware's nonstick treatment "penetrates below the surface, into the pores" of the metal, according to the packaging. When we intentionally abraded the product's nonstick surfaces to simulate years of wear, the Calphalon held up quite well, but so did five other brands without the infusion technology.

Glass lids

These let you see what's going on inside the pot without having to lift it off and letting steam escape. But they add weight and can break, which could be a problem in a household with young kids.

Handles

Handles are typically made from tubular stainless steel, cast stainless steel, heat-resistant plastic, or wood. Metal handles enable you to go from stovetop to oven, so you have one less pan to clean. Solid metal handles are unwieldy but sturdy. Solid or hollow metal handles can get hot but can go from stovetop to broiler without damage. (Check the label first; some can warp or discolor when used that way.) Lightweight plastic handles won't get as hot as metal ones, but can't go in ovens above 350° F--and they occasionally break. While wood handles stay cool, they can't go in the oven or dishwasher. And they might deteriorate over time. Handles are either welded, screwed, or riveted onto cookware. Riveted handles are the strongest. Some sets have removable handles that are used with different pieces, but we've found that the handles might fit with some pieces better than others. A newer feature is handles sheathed in silicone rubber, which can take the oven's heat. The covered handles on one set we tested withstood temperatures of up to 400° F.

Safety

If you're the absent-minded type who leaves pots on the stove and then forgets about them, you might be interested in the results of our test in which we left an empty pot on the burner. In less than a half-hour, stainless-steel pots discolored and their rivets loosened.