Their style might catch your eye, but it's the construction features you can't see that will keep your cabinets looking good
year after year. Most manufacturers offer a similar range of door styles whether they sell ready-made, semicustom, or made-to-measure
custom cabinets.
Remember that even if your contractor or architect does the measurements, make sure the cabinet supplier signs off on them.
That way you'll avoid finger-pointing should there be any mistakes.
What separates a well-made cabinet from a cheap imitation? Here are the quality features to look for, and some flimsy ones
to avoid:
Drawers. Best have solid-wood sides, dovetail joinery, and a plywood bottom that fits grooves on four sides. Avoid stapled particleboard.
Drawer hardware. Full-extension guides are better than integrated side rails or undermounted double-roller designs. Some premium models have
a "soft close" feature that stops drawers from slamming shut.
Doors. Best is a solid-wood frame surrounding a solid-wood or plywood panel. Veneered particleboard or a medium-density fiberboard
(MDF) panel is OK. Avoid laminate or thermofoil over particleboard. We didn't find any differences between types of door hinges.
Cabinet box. Best is 1/2 to 3/4-inch, furniture-grade plywood. MDF is OK, but avoid 3/8-inch coated particleboard.
Shelves. Best is 3/4-inch plywood or MDF. Lesser-quality 5/8- and 1/2-inch particleboard shelves might sag.
Mounting strips. Best is 3/4-inch hardwood or metal with bolt holes. MDF, particleboard, or wood that's thinner than 1/2 inch can be a concern
for heavily loaded wall cabinets. Ask your installer to use stronger stuff.