June 2008
Fuego 02 gas grill
This attractive grill doesn’t leave us burning with enthusiasm
STYLISH COOKER The Fuego 02 gas grill will look great on your deck or patio, but its cooking performance is only so-so.
The Fuego 02, $1,700, is a single-burner gas grill that seems to be designed for people who might favor form over function.
Indeed, in a brochure, the manufacturer says, "Part furniture and part grill, it functions as much as an entertainment hub
as a place to prepare a memorable meal."
This strikingly handsome 25x33-inch grill has one major difference from most other gas grills we test: The Fuego 02 lacks a lid that's used during cooking. Its retractable top is designed only to protect the cast-iron cooking surface from the elements when you're not using the grill.
On the plus side, the Fuego 02 offers a compact design that's also attractive, featuring stainless-steel surfaces and slate and teak counters around the perimeter of the grill. It has flip-up compartments to store cooking utensils.
But the overall cooking area is only about 225 square inches; our medium-sized grill category starts at 340 square inches. And because the grill has a hot zone in the middle and a warm zone around the outer edge, there's not a lot of space for cooking over direct heat. (You place food in the warming zone when you don't want it over direct heat.)
Even more notable, the grill did not excel in our cooking tests. The chicken breasts we cooked on the Fuego were heavily charred and the meat was drier than meat we've cooked on other grills. Chicken and salmon also took nearly 50 percent longer to cook than they did on other gas grills. Those drawbacks could be a direct result of the design: Grilling without a lid allows moisture to escape, resulting in dry food that takes longer to cook.
"Fuego is what happens when a designer plays with fire," says the company's Web site. That explains the Fuego 02's stylish design. But its drawbacks-small cooking area, mediocre cooking results, and high price-could be a turn-off.
Essential information: See our gas grills product page for expert tips on buying and using a gas grill, including easy-to-make delicious recipes, advice on avoiding common mistakes when cooking, and ways to keep your grilling working well and looking good.
This strikingly handsome 25x33-inch grill has one major difference from most other gas grills we test: The Fuego 02 lacks a lid that's used during cooking. Its retractable top is designed only to protect the cast-iron cooking surface from the elements when you're not using the grill.
On the plus side, the Fuego 02 offers a compact design that's also attractive, featuring stainless-steel surfaces and slate and teak counters around the perimeter of the grill. It has flip-up compartments to store cooking utensils.
But the overall cooking area is only about 225 square inches; our medium-sized grill category starts at 340 square inches. And because the grill has a hot zone in the middle and a warm zone around the outer edge, there's not a lot of space for cooking over direct heat. (You place food in the warming zone when you don't want it over direct heat.)
Even more notable, the grill did not excel in our cooking tests. The chicken breasts we cooked on the Fuego were heavily charred and the meat was drier than meat we've cooked on other grills. Chicken and salmon also took nearly 50 percent longer to cook than they did on other gas grills. Those drawbacks could be a direct result of the design: Grilling without a lid allows moisture to escape, resulting in dry food that takes longer to cook.
"Fuego is what happens when a designer plays with fire," says the company's Web site. That explains the Fuego 02's stylish design. But its drawbacks-small cooking area, mediocre cooking results, and high price-could be a turn-off.
Essential information: See our gas grills product page for expert tips on buying and using a gas grill, including easy-to-make delicious recipes, advice on avoiding common mistakes when cooking, and ways to keep your grilling working well and looking good.
