November 2005
Circular saws
Circular saws are a mainstay for cutting the two-by-fours and plywood used in many home-improvement projects. After drills, circular saws are the most common power tool in a home workshop. Battery-powered saws offer go-anywhere convenience, but there's a reason you aren't likely to see professional carpenters using them: Plug-in saws are far more capable.
WHAT'S AVAILABLE
Black & Decker, Bosch, Craftsman (Sears), DeWalt, GMC, Makita, Milwaukee, Porter-Cable, Ryobi, and Skil brands account for most of the circular saws sold.
Corded models. These models run on an electric motor that can range from 10 to 15 amps. The higher the amps, the more power you can expect. Most models are oriented so the motor is perpendicular to the blade. Another type uses a "worm drive" design in which the motor is parallel to the blade; that gives a saw a lot of power, but at the expense of speed. Corded models outperform cordless models by a wide margin with up to seven times the speed and power of cordless saws. Price range: $30 to $175.
High-torque worm/hypoid geared models. Pros like them, but they're heavy and offer little more for most users. Price range: $150 to $175.
Cordless models. These range from 14.4 to 24 volts. They usually have a smaller blade and a shorter run time than corded models. Price range: $100 to $420.
IMPORTANT FEATURES
Every saw has a big main handle and a stubby auxiliary handle; the former incorporates the saw's on/off switch. Some saws include a safety interlock, a second switch you have to press to turn on the motor. This adds a level of safety by preventing accidental start-ups, but can make the saw awkward to use.
Inexpensive saws have a stamped-steel base and thin housing; pricier models use thick, rugged material, such as reinforced steel, that stands up to hard use. A blade with two dozen large teeth cuts fast but can splinter the wood; a blade with 40 or more teeth gives a cleaner cut. The thinner the blade, the faster the cut and the less wasted wood. Typically, slower saws come with a steel blade while the fastest models have a carbide-tipped blade.
Bevel adjustment is used to change the angle of the cut from 0 to 45 degrees or more for some saws. The depth adjustment changes the blade's cutting depth. A circular saw works best when the teeth just clear the bottom of the wood. A visible blade, one that's located to the left of the motor or a notch in the upper blade guard helps you see the blade and your cutting mark without leaning over the saw. Many models include a laser guide. But the feature is of limited use. You still have to draw a line and use a steady hand. And a laser is useless when you saw outdoors in bright sunlight.
A spindle lock keeps the blade from spinning while you change blades. A blade brake stops the blade quickly when you release the trigger. The dust chute directs the sawdust away so you can see what you're doing. A 9- or 10-foot power cord can make an extension cord unnecessary. Even if you need one, the extra length of the saw cord keeps the cord junction away from your work.
HOW TO CHOOSE
Decide the kind of work you'll do. For occasional light cutting, most any saw is fine. For heavy use or for cutting hard or thick wood, you want a saw with speed and power, such as the top-rated models. Speed also affects safety; you're more likely to push a slow saw, dulling the blade quickly and overheating the motor, or making the saw jam or kick back.
Try it out in the store. Design points that can make a saw easy to use include a visible blade and cutting guide, a blade that's simple to change and to adjust for depth and angle, good balance, a comfortable handle, and a handy on/off switch. How well the saw is constructed impacts its potential for a long, trouble-free life. It should have durable bearings, motor brushes that are accessible for servicing or replacement, a heavy-duty base, and rugged blade-depth and cutting-angle adjustments.
Look for carbide-tipped blades. Steel blades are slower than carbide-tipped blades. Be sure to match the number of teeth with the material you want to cut; a blade for plywood, say, has more teeth than one for rough cutting.
Safety counts. All the saws are loud enough when cutting to warrant hearing protection. All kick up a lot of chips and dust, so safety glasses or goggles are a must. You should also wear a dust mask, especially when cutting pressure-treated lumber.
Circular saws are a mainstay for cutting the two-by-fours and plywood used in many home-improvement projects. After drills, circular saws are the most common power tool in a home workshop. Battery-powered saws offer go-anywhere convenience, but there's a reason you aren't likely to see professional carpenters using them: Plug-in saws are far more capable.
WHAT'S AVAILABLE
Black & Decker, Bosch, Craftsman (Sears), DeWalt, GMC, Makita, Milwaukee, Porter-Cable, Ryobi, and Skil brands account for most of the circular saws sold.
Corded models. These models run on an electric motor that can range from 10 to 15 amps. The higher the amps, the more power you can expect. Most models are oriented so the motor is perpendicular to the blade. Another type uses a "worm drive" design in which the motor is parallel to the blade; that gives a saw a lot of power, but at the expense of speed. Corded models outperform cordless models by a wide margin with up to seven times the speed and power of cordless saws. Price range: $30 to $175.
High-torque worm/hypoid geared models. Pros like them, but they're heavy and offer little more for most users. Price range: $150 to $175.
Cordless models. These range from 14.4 to 24 volts. They usually have a smaller blade and a shorter run time than corded models. Price range: $100 to $420.
IMPORTANT FEATURES
Every saw has a big main handle and a stubby auxiliary handle; the former incorporates the saw's on/off switch. Some saws include a safety interlock, a second switch you have to press to turn on the motor. This adds a level of safety by preventing accidental start-ups, but can make the saw awkward to use.
Inexpensive saws have a stamped-steel base and thin housing; pricier models use thick, rugged material, such as reinforced steel, that stands up to hard use. A blade with two dozen large teeth cuts fast but can splinter the wood; a blade with 40 or more teeth gives a cleaner cut. The thinner the blade, the faster the cut and the less wasted wood. Typically, slower saws come with a steel blade while the fastest models have a carbide-tipped blade.
Bevel adjustment is used to change the angle of the cut from 0 to 45 degrees or more for some saws. The depth adjustment changes the blade's cutting depth. A circular saw works best when the teeth just clear the bottom of the wood. A visible blade, one that's located to the left of the motor or a notch in the upper blade guard helps you see the blade and your cutting mark without leaning over the saw. Many models include a laser guide. But the feature is of limited use. You still have to draw a line and use a steady hand. And a laser is useless when you saw outdoors in bright sunlight.
A spindle lock keeps the blade from spinning while you change blades. A blade brake stops the blade quickly when you release the trigger. The dust chute directs the sawdust away so you can see what you're doing. A 9- or 10-foot power cord can make an extension cord unnecessary. Even if you need one, the extra length of the saw cord keeps the cord junction away from your work.
HOW TO CHOOSE
Decide the kind of work you'll do. For occasional light cutting, most any saw is fine. For heavy use or for cutting hard or thick wood, you want a saw with speed and power, such as the top-rated models. Speed also affects safety; you're more likely to push a slow saw, dulling the blade quickly and overheating the motor, or making the saw jam or kick back.
Try it out in the store. Design points that can make a saw easy to use include a visible blade and cutting guide, a blade that's simple to change and to adjust for depth and angle, good balance, a comfortable handle, and a handy on/off switch. How well the saw is constructed impacts its potential for a long, trouble-free life. It should have durable bearings, motor brushes that are accessible for servicing or replacement, a heavy-duty base, and rugged blade-depth and cutting-angle adjustments.
Look for carbide-tipped blades. Steel blades are slower than carbide-tipped blades. Be sure to match the number of teeth with the material you want to cut; a blade for plywood, say, has more teeth than one for rough cutting.
Safety counts. All the saws are loud enough when cutting to warrant hearing protection. All kick up a lot of chips and dust, so safety glasses or goggles are a must. You should also wear a dust mask, especially when cutting pressure-treated lumber.
