Hurricanes, tornadoes, and high winds
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All three wreak havoc across much of the U.S., including the Midwest, Northeast, South, and Hawaii. Protection begins with
the windows and doors. If they’re blown in and air rushes into the home, it could take off the roof and push the walls apart.
Roofing and siding improvements can be done during major repairs and remodeling.
For windows
• Install temporary plywood shutters before a hurricane.
• For permanent protection, install storm shutters or impact-resistant laminated glass on all windows. Look for ASTM E1996
and E1986 or the words "Broward-Dade County Approved," which signify the ability to withstand the impact of a wood 2x4 traveling
at 34 mph. Cost for a 2,500-square-foot house: about $8,000 to $19,000 for shutters, $17,000 for windows. A bonus is extra
security from burglary and theft. The Federal Alliance for Safe Homes has additional data at www.flash.org/tools/shutter_tool.
For doors
• Tornado and hurricane damage often start with wind entry through garage doors, studies show. Use windowless garage doors
no wider than the standard 9 feet and rated to withstand at least 50 pounds of pressure per square foot (look for a sticker
on the door). Other doors should be braced or shuttered. Vertical braces, installed after the door is closed, are the most
effective.
• Shutter the entire entry-door area, including sidelights and transoms.
• If replacing an entry door, choose an outward-opening one no wider than the standard 3 feet with a steel frame. Those offer
better resistance to wind pressure and reduce the chance of water coming in at the door. Install using three heavy-duty hinges
and screws that are at least 2 1/2 inches long. Sidelights should have impact-resistant glass. If there are steps or a landing,
they may need to be rebuilt to safely accommodate an outward-opening door.
• Make sure any entry doors are rated for wind conditions in your area (check your building department or www.ibhs.org). Look for Broward-Dade County Approved products for wind-prone areas without building codes.
For roofs
• Reinforce the underside of an existing roof with a wood adhesive rated AFG-01 and certified by an independent test lab.
Work from inside the attic in homes with exposed rafters. Use a caulk gun to apply a 1/4-inch bead of the adhesive on both
sides of each beam where the sheathing meets the rafters or trusses.
• Add hurricane clips and other reinforcements at the connections between the rafters or trusses and walls. Hurricane clips
and straps can allow a 2,500-square-foot house to resist winds up to 110 mph, for as little as $500. You can add the clips
to your current roof if you can access the rafters or trusses through your attic. Otherwise, you’ll have to do so when replacing
the sheathing and roofing.
• Have roof sheathing fastened to the rafters with 8d (eight-penny) ring-shank nails, which have an angular, serrated surface
for tear-out resistance. Nails should be 6 inches apart on framing members. The sheathing should be nailed rather than stapled
in to place. Panels that were previously stapled should be renailed.
• Consider adding a secondary moisture barrier---adhesive joint taping or an ice-and-water shield--to protect against wind-driven
rain.
• Look for roofing materials rated ASTM D3161 for wind-resistance up to 110 mph (check the packaging). The American Society
for Testing and Materials International is in the process of publishing a consensus standard with a three-tier classification
system rating shingles for winds up to 150 mph (H rating), though it has not yet been adopted by the International Code Council
and the many communities that follow it.
For siding
• Masonry, hard plank, and brick are best. You can also put oriented strand-board or plywood beneath other materials as part
of a re-siding project to increase wind-resistance and help support the frame and roofing.
• For vinyl, use siding certified by the Vinyl Siding Institute to industry standard ASTM D 3679, which should withstand winds
of at least 90 mph. Proper installation is key, says Dave Johnston, technical director for the Institute. Siding that’s nailed
too tightly or too loosely may not perform as intended.
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