|
The following information is excerpted from Consumer Reports’ Complete Guide to Reducing Energy Costs. The new book features hundreds of smart strategies to save money on energy costs, including 20 quick, no-cost ways to save
now. Order the book online or by phone (800-500-9760). Your purchase includes 30 days of free access to ConsumerReports.org. |
Replacing a standard thermostat is a simple job that will save you money. All you need is a screwdriver, a drill, and 5 or
10 minutes.
Start by popping off the cover to expose a couple of screws that you back out to remove the body of the thermostat from the
wall. A few more screws hold wires that run to the furnace. If the thermostat controls the heat supply and nothing else, there
will be only two wires; if it also controls a central air conditioner, there’ll be more. Knowing which goes where on the new
thermostat is straightforward--the wires are color-coded, and the screws in programmable thermostats are labeled.
You will probably need to drill new mounting holes for the thermostat. Screws are usually included with the thermostat, along
with plastic anchors that will help hold them in the drywall.
Note that the thin low-voltage wires connecting most thermostats are relatively safe to work with. But full household current
may run through a thermostat that governs electric baseboard heaters, and only an electrician or an HVAC contractor should
handle replacement of those.
STEP-BY-STEP INSTRUCTIONS
|
|
Take the cover off the old thermostat. Turn off the power supply to the existing thermostat at the home’s circuit breaker,
at the fuse box, or at the furnace cutoff switch, if there is one. If the thermostat is on an electric baseboard heater, hire
an electrician or an HVAC contractor instead of doing the job yourself.
|
|
|
|
Remove the wires. Unscrew the wires from their terminals. If the wires aren’t color-coded, label them with tape, marking each
piece with the letter of the nearby screw terminal.
|
|
|
|
Unscrew the mounting screws. Remove the screws holding the body of the thermostat to the wall, and take it off the wall. The
wires will sometimes try to slide back through the hole in the wall that they pass through; if so, tape them temporarily in
place.
|
|
|
|
Lay out holes for the new thermostat. Put the template that comes with the new thermostat on the wall. Poke a pencil through
the marks on the template to show where on the wall the screws should go.
|
|
|
|
Drill holes for anchors. The package will include small plastic anchors that you put in the holes to help hold the screws
in place. You won’t need them if you happen to drill into a stud. Drill holes in the wall for the anchors--the package directions
will tell you what size holes to drill.
|
|
|
|
Put the anchors in the wall. Push the anchors into the holes. Plaster and drywall are fragile, and without the anchors or
a stud behind, the thermostat would come loose with normal use.
|
|
|
|
Screw the thermostat to the wall. Feed the wires through the opening for them in the body of the thermostat. Screw the body
to the wall, driving the screws into the plastic anchors, or the studs.
|
|
|
|
Screw the wires to their terminals. After attaching the wires, install a battery if needed. |
|
|
|
Mount the new thermostat. Attach the cover to the body of the thermostat, turn the power back on, and program the device as
directed in the manufacturer’s instructions.
|
|