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November 2007
Storing mowers and other power equipment for the winter
When packing lawn and garden gear away for the winter, you'll want to do more than toss it in the shed. Here's how to take
care of your equipment so it's ready to go when spring rolls around.
Fuel
Gasoline-powered mowers and tractors can survive the cold months fine, but the fuel in them begins to oxidize quickly and
can cause deposits that clog the carburetor and prevent starting. The best way to prevent that is to add a stabilizer to the
fuel. Home centers, gasoline stations, and garden-supply stores sell it. Let the engine run for a few minutes to ensure the
stabilized fuel reaches the carburetor. Stabilizer manufacturers claim their products keep fuel from oxidizing for up to 12
months.
If you store a mower or tractor in the basement or an attached garage, run it dry the day you mow your lawn the last time
for the season.
If you store the mower in a detached shed, make sure the fuel tank is filled with stabilized fuel. This method has two advantages
over running the engine dry: In metal tanks, a full fuel tank prevents rust-causing condensation from forming and keeps the
carburetor float from sticking. It also means you minimize fuel use and air pollution.
Mower deck and blade
To prevent corrosion damage to the underside of the deck, use a plastic scraper to remove the dirt and grass clippings and
follow up by spraying thoroughly with the garden hose. When it's dry, coat the deck with silicone spray to reduce clippings
buildup next spring. Now is a good time to sharpen the blade.
Spark plug
Remove it, check the electrodes for wear and deposits, squirt a few drops of fogging oil in the cylinder, pull the starter
cord a few times (or jog the engine with the key on an electric-start mower) then reattach the plug. (You can buy fogging
oil at power-equipment and auto-parts stores.) Leave the wire off to keep children from starting the engine. If the plug's
electrodes are badly worn, this is a good time to replace it.
Battery
For tractors or riding mowers with a starter battery, remove the battery, charge it fully, and store it inside for the winter
(unless, of course, you'll be using the tractor to move snow during the winter). For added protection, charge the battery
again one or two times while it's in storage.
If you have a battery-powered mower, bring it inside and follow the manufacturer's instructions for keeping it charged during
the winter.
Routine maintenance
The end of the mowing season is a convenient time to perform those preventive-maintenance chores that keep a mower or tractor
running longer. Check the owner's manual for specifics. Sharpen the blade (a dull blade shreds the grass, promoting disease),
change the oil (four-stroke engines only), replace the air filter (or clean it if it's an older, foam type), and lubricate
such moving parts as cables, levers, and wheels.
STORING OTHER POWER EQUIPMENT
Much of this advice applies to garden tillers, string trimmers, leaf blowers, edgers, and other power equipment.
Check all moving parts for damage. Cover any bare metal parts with oil or rust preventive.
Clean caked-on grass and wipe debris from tillers, edgers, and trimmer housings.
For battery-powered equipment, remove the battery and fully charge it before storing.
Getting winter tools ready to use:
Before the first snowfall or ice storm, these steps can get your snow blower and chain saw ready for the cold weather:
For your snow blower...
Before the first flake falls, fill the tank with stabilized winter-grade fuel and start the engine to make sure it's running
well.
Change the oil if you didn't do so at the end of last winter; make sure you check the owner's manual for the correct grade
and viscosity.
Check other parts of the machine-the spark plug (clean or replace if necessary), tires (add air if necessary), and all moving
parts (lubricate them and make sure they're properly adjusted).
Spray the discharge chute with silicone spray to prevent snow from clogging it later.
For your chain saw...
Fill the tank with a stabilized mix of winter-grade gasoline and two-cycle oil for easier engine-starting and replace the
bar oil with a winter-grade variety that flows more easily in cold weather. Sharpen the chain or install a new one.