May 2006
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Fixing a problem lawn

Man examining lawn.
Your lawn needn't be ridden by weeds, insects, or disease to look less than lush. Begin by comparing how you water, fertilize, and mow with the advice we've provided. Then check the list below for typical lawn maladies and how to handle them.


Common lawn problems

The wrong grass. Trying to grow the wrong type of grass is a common cause of persistent problems. Switching to a type that grows well in your area is the best remedy. (See grass guide and zone map.)

Too much shade. No lawn grass prefers shade. While fine and tall fescues and St. Augustinegrass can tolerate it, Bermudagrass can't. Thinning trees at least annually will let in more light and help the tree when done correctly. (See How to prune trees.) Removing or mulching fallen leaves also helps, as does mowing grass beneath trees slightly higher and fertilizing it a bit less. Also consider replacing grass beneath trees with wood chips or other ground cover.

Moss. Too much shade is a prime culprit. Other causes include compacted, infertile soil and soil acidity, or pH, that's too high or low.

If a soil test shows low pH, adding limestone will help. You can also use moss killers, which contain a form of iron sulfate to burn the moss. But unless you address the underlying problem, the moss will return.

Water runs off and won't soak in. This is caused by poor or compacted soils or by sprinklers that apply water faster than the soil can absorb it. Sloping ground worsens the problem.

Sprinkler heads that water more slowly are one possible solution. Aerating the lawn, which involves extracting narrow cores of soil, can also boost water absorption and reduce runoff.

Mushrooms. These typically appear after a rain and often indicate dead tree roots or decaying wood. While you can't eliminate them without removing and replacing the soil in which they live, you can mow or rake them away as they appear.

Thin, weak, or yellowish lawn. Nitrogen-rich fertilizer is the usual cure for this problem. But the cause can also be too little iron or magnesium, especially in the West where alkaline or high- pH soils are common.

Iron sulfate or iron chelate will turn the lawn green within two days if it's low on iron. Be especially sure to keep iron sulfate on the lawn, since it can stain paving. If the lawn doesn't respond, mix 2 1/2 tablespoons of Epsom salts into a gallon of water and spray it over a test area. The area should turn green within two days if the problem was too little magnesium.

Dead spots. Most are caused by dog urine, spilled gasoline, or spilled fertilizer rather than disease. Soak the area with water to wash the salts or chemicals into the soil and minimize their damage.

See more about weeds, insects, and lawn diseases.