Whether you’re eager to read Tolstoy or Twain, there’s a bookstore to oblige. We set out to find out which of the obvious choices--Barnes & Noble, bn.com, Borders, and Amazon.com, which fills online orders for Borders.com--have the best buys, gift cards, and return policies. To assess browse-ability, our reporter also soaked up the ambience (and several lattes) at the walk-in stores.

Prices. Amazon won, with discounts on 21 of the 23 titles we checked, for total savings of 36 percent off list. Barnes & Noble’s online store, bn.com, discounted 18 titles, for savings of 19 percent.

Barnes & Noble and Borders representatives told us that prices were generally the same at all the stores in a chain. The Barnes & Noble rep said they’re usually higher than online. Indeed. Walk-in stores discounted only a few new releases and best sellers (as per the chains’ sales figures); savings were about 5 percent. In most cases, the price gap remained after factoring in online shipping fees and applicable sales tax.We found a $56 difference between Borders and Borders.com for a coffee-table book about orchids (list: $150). On the other hand, in some cases, older books weren’t discounted at all.

Service. Borders has self-service kiosks around the store, a big plus if you need to look for a book. At Barnes & Noble, you must ask a clerk for help.

Gift cards. Those from Barnes & Noble and Borders never expire, don’t have dormancy or maintenance fees, and are redeemable in stores or online. If you buy a Barnes & Noble card worth more than $200 online, you must pay for air delivery, at $8 to $12. Amazon.com offers gift certificates (shipping is free) that typically expire after two years.

Frequent-buyer clubs. The Borders Rewards program is free. It diverts 5 percent of your calendar-year buys into a holiday account redeemable from Nov. 15 to Feb. 1. Spend $50 or more during any month at Borders or its subsidiary Waldenbooks, and you’ll earn a shopping day with another 10 percent off everything. The discount doesn’t apply online.

For the Barnes & Noble club, you pay $25 a year, which earns an extra 10 percent off hardcover best sellers plus 20 percent off other hardcovers (except children’s books) and an extra 10 percent off other items. Discounts apply at B&N stores (and affiliates, including B. Dalton and Doubleday) and online.

Return policies. Retailers will accept returned books only in saleable condition. For a book with signs of use, they’ll give you a partial refund.

Borders and most Barnes & Noble stores have a 30-day cash or credit-card return policy if you have a receipt (Borders told us that during the holidays, full refunds are OK even after 30 days). If you lack a receipt, both chains will give you, as a gift card or credit, the lowest amount for which the book sold. Within 30 days of shipping, purchases made at bn.com can be returned to any Barnes & Noble store for credit. Returns of new books in original condition to Ama­zon.com are prorated after 30 days: You’ll receive 80 percent of the purchase price.

Ambience. Most superstores have cafés, where shoppers can linger even with a borrowed magazine or book. “We encourage browsing, and there are no time limits,” says Anne Roman, director of corporate affairs at Borders.

Wireless Internet access is free at Borders for T-Mobile Wi-Fi customers and at Barnes & Noble for AT&T Wi-Fi customers.

CR’s take. To save, shop at Amazon or bn.com. If you prefer a walk-in store, take advantage of Borders’ self-help kiosks and free frequent-buyer club.