When organic isn't

Labels on cosmetics and body-care products can be misleading

On a recent trip to my local pharmacy's body-care aisle, I couldn't believe the number of "organic" products on the shelves. But I also couldn't believe what I was seeing on the ingredients lists. As an advocate for strong organic labeling standards, I keep an eye on these kinds of things.

"Pure, Natural & Organic Aloe Vera 84% Shampoo," for example, sounds, well, pure, natural, and organic. But the label showed that the product contains plenty of synthetic ingredients, including cocamidopropyl betaine, dimethicone, polyquaternium-7, potassium sorbate, and sodium benzoate.

The problem is that "organic" personal-care items are not always held to the same organic standards as food. So labels can be misleading to consumers looking to buy products that they view as more healthful or better for the environment.

At a recent public meeting of the National Organic Standards Board that I attended there was a lively discussion of what the government should do about "organic" personal-care products: Should it just get rid of the organic label on those items or try to close the many loopholes in the rules? The loopholes allow companies to make organic claims without having to meet USDA standards.

For food and body-care products, USDA certification states that up to 5 percent of the ingredients in items labeled "organic" and up to 30 percent of ingredients in products labeled "made with organic" ingredients can be nonorganic, which can include synthetic chemicals. However, while only approved synthetics can be used in organic foods, just about anything goes when it comes to personal-care items labeled organic (without the USDA Organic certification). They might contain ingredients such as preservatives and fragrances—precisely the kinds of chemicals many people buying organic products are trying to avoid. (Only certified products labeled "100 percent organic" must be all organic.)

Here's another way "organic" products might mislead you: Water and salt don't have to be counted in calculating organic ingredients. So "organic" products, such as bath salts, can be mostly salt or water with just a drop of organic ingredients.

Bottom line

If you're paying a premium for organic, you might not be getting much for your money.

This article first appeared in the September 2009 issue of ShopSmart.