Honda Accord Change Vehicle

“Coating inside torque converter came off went through transmission causing a need to rebuild transmission”

“The torque converter needed to be replaced with the transmission rebuild”

“Transmission replaced by dealership”

“transmission was rebuilt according to specs. It continues to shift roughly. It has been taken back to the shop 6 times and all things checked good. Now when the engine is cold, the transmission takes forever to go into second and then lurches into the gear and is rough in subsequent gear shifts. This particular car year and model has been famous for terrible transmission issues”

“Rebuilt 3 years ago and now needs it again”

“Actually, we were told the transmission was failing and needed to be replaced and that it would cost at least 5000 dollars to replace, so we have continued to use it as is since it still drives, but do not take it on the highway”

“stopped cold on snowy night. needed to be towed to dealer. $5000 repair, but I plan to drive at least another 50k miles with this great car. love not having car payments and lots of metal around me”

“Total automatic transmission failure at 55,000 miles. Required new transmission. Very common defect known by Honda. This is a systematic problem with their transmissions, No access to change tranny filter w/o disassemble entire transmission”

“slow and hard shifting up ship plus delay shifting from forward to reverse”

“check engine liht came on at 55,000 miles, and it turned out thetransmission was no longer good”

“Just completed the installation of a Factory rebuilt transmission and it is working very well”

“Have been told by several transmission rebuilding companies that it is not at all unusual for the older Hondas to need a new transmission between 100,000 to 150,000 miles. This apparently foes all the way up to and a little past 2008”

“slipping trans replaced after a year of driving on it”

“replaced transmission in 2013”

“it died...as many from that era have”

“slipping needed replacement @ 125000 miles all my cost no break from honda”

“With barely 90k on the car the trans went out. Slipping and slamming into gear. My wife babies this car and has taken very good care of it sense we bought it with just 20k on it. The trans should have lasted much longer”

“Had to replace the transmission at 113000”

“Coating inside Torque Converter came off went through transmission had to have transmission rebuilt. Never did fail but engine light told us there was problem”

“Transmission slipped when shifting into and out of 2nd gear”

“didn't shift right”

“I am totally annoyed with Honda... they know there is a problem with the 2002 transmissions.. mine failed - decreased the value of resale by about $5000 - and they refuse to do anything about it... I used to love them,now I will look at other brands!”

“Transmission slipped in gear, delayed shifting gears. A transmission replacement was recommended, but the cylinder head cracked before the work could be scheduled. The car is being scrapped now”

“I perform excellent preventive maintenance on all my car transmissions and was surprised the transmission failed”

“Transmission failure due to valve shift solenoid problems. Replacement transmission is also now showing signs of wear”

“The transmission failed at 205000 km and needed to a have a total rebuild. Many of these kilometers were down on the highway and this seemed like premature failure of such a major component of the drivetrain”

“REPLACED”

“left calipre failed after 12 yrs. of driving. Honda has a calipre lubrification programm which kept these calipres operational for 12 years. Finally one failed - changed both”

“NOISE,VIBRATION”

“the rotors were warped and needed replaced”

“Three times, including today, I have had brake work done due to vibrating when braking at 20 to 25 mph Today, Honda Livermore said there is nothing wrong with my brakes. I agreed to having the rotors re-surfaced which corrected the problem”

“won't stay true--required several turnings, then had to be replaced”

“Oil leak Brakes: they were squeaking very loudly. I took my car in to my mechanic who said I needed new front brakes”

“Brakes needed replacement”

“I had all the brakes replaced after 145,000”

“Rusted brake lines”

“they put new pads on to go with the new rotors”

“I had the break system flushed. Water in the line could cause it to rust out. In this case the expense was probably worth it”

“Brakes had to be replaced”

“brakes wear out too often”

“Took car in for maintenance and needed rear brakes”

“First brake replacement in many years”

“I did not notice any problems. The car was taken in for the yearly state inspection and I was told the brake pads need to be changed”

“front disc brakes pads wore out and needed to be replaced”

“Normal wear”

“Both front and rear brakes regularly require maintenance or replacement far more often than I have experienced on any of my other vehicles”

“RR rotor had to be replaced due to rusted out splash shield”

“The brakes appear to last 12k miles before requiring service”

“excessive brake pad wear on the rear brakes”

“Brake pads on all four wheels wore down after only two years”

“The brake line rusted through possibly due to the line running through a channel that collects moisture”

“Required one replacement”

“Engine mounts were cracking and had extreme wear”

“two of the rear engine mounts have broken since I have owned this vehicle”

“Two major oil leaks about 4 months apart that made a mess of both my driveway and my budget. They were seals/gaskets buried deep within the engine; each required major disassembly and the total bills (from a shop I trust and have been using for over 9 years) were well over $2000”

“Just about anything that could leak decided to do so after the odomater reached 130,000 miles. The power steering pump and related parts have now been changed 3 times. I've paid a few thousand dollars to get everything fixed”

“I discovered that my oil pan had a crack in it above the oil pan cover and was slowly leaking oil. Had to replace the entire oil pan, not just the cover”

“The camshaft seal leaked and had to be replaced”

“A small gasket in the valve solenoid cracked and caused oil to pump out while driving. Had to replace the whole solenoid, unable to buy $5 gasket had to buy the whole part for $150”

“Car needed valve cover gaskets, problem solved”

“Informational light on dashboard was almost useless, as the info it provided was simply that there was a problem. I was told ythose who diagnosed it that over time, due to high heat the fittings in engines just change shape, which allows oil to leak. The only challenge is knowing when to add oil”

“I had to have new front brakes.Also had to fix Oil Leak for $1,000.00”

“valve gaskets leak and pipes leak”

“THE OIL LEAKS OUT OF THE VALVE COVER”

“Have replaced seals but still experiencing fluid leaks”

“porous engine block”

“A hole in the oil pan. I had it replaced 1 month ago”

“I had to replace 3 oil seals for a cost of $2,750. All 3 were leaking”

“I believe it was an oil pimp gasket”

“rear main seal Oil pan gasket”

“oil pan leak”

“detected small oil leak on oil pan cover”

“Diffuse oil leak from oil pump and many failed oil seals (occurred around 100K mark!). Proving to be costly to replace failing parts”

“Oil has been leaking for a couple of years”

“from the rear main seal of the engine”

“Gas tank had to be replaced”

“drain tube for sunroof was plugged causing an interior leak. this was an easy fix”

“radiator hose broke”

“Water standing in driver floorboard, traced to clog in drainage system for sunroof. Successfully fixed”

“previously mentioned”

“THE RUBBER THAT SEELS THE DOOR IS COMING OUT”

“sunroof drain leaks water into rear pax floor. Body to trunk structural seams leak melt water during winter months”

“sun roof leaked”

“Rattling noise in the rear of the car for the last month. So far, it has not affected the car's performance or reliability”

“related to the from springs”

“Have had several parts replaced but noises continue”

“I had struts replaced 2 years ago, and since that time I have a rattle under the car the is very loud when ever the road is even mildly rough. I have had the mechanic try to find what is causing this 3 diff times”

“Rattle in R and L front wheel wells especially when turning hard. Dealer claims heat shields are bent, but 3 repairs still haven't fixed it”

“loud squeak/rattle in the rear suspension area of the car”

“Front suspension makes noises on bumpy country roads”

“Radial caused by screws from under dashboard, which dealer can not find to fix”

“the stripping around the doors has always been loose and it is VERY noisy esp when driving freeway speeds WHILE the wind is blowing”

“Traveling the interstate wind noise is very noticiable from the driver and front passenger windows”

“Had two 6 cd changers put in this car and they both went bad in a few months. People can't seem to get it right. CD changer presently not working. Expense is really high from Honda. Do not get a 6 cd changer. single changer works better”

“The catalytic convertor failed, but I got 207,000 miles use from it. I actually think that is amazing”

“The catalytic converter was pretty old and it needed a change”

“Due to holes in pipes that were replaced”

“Car has original (2002) exhaust system. Exhaust leaked near the catalytic converter flange. Auto shop welded the leak, problem solved, original exhaust system remains in tact”

“Well, This was a Exhaust Manifold with California emissions, so the exhaust manifold is designed very different from other EX models, cleaning up the carbon buildup is very difficult as it has only one outlet under the EGR valve. So I had to put extr”

“Noise due to faulty catalatic converter”

“Rough sounding...assuming from muffler or one of the various connecting pipes”

“muffler had hole rusted through”

“Muffler did not work properly. There was a leak and the noise was not acceptable”

“small hole in the muffler”

“Deterioration due to age”

“exhaust pipe rusted through and fell apart”

“Pipes rusted out due to age”

“Connecting flanges deteriorated, had non-dealer service center install a "Sleeve" to connect pipes”

“The car had two thin spots just before and just after the converter. Piping was thin enough to make replacing the converters without replacing the pipes a pointless expense”

“Light bulbs 6 had to be replaced”

“electronic odometer no longer displays”

“Bulb went out - replaced the bulb”

“One of the tail lights has burned out a few times”

“One brake light works intermittently. Dealer has been unable to fix”

“Same problem over the life of the car - brake lights go on, on their own when the car is off, and drain the battery. It has been repaired by outside mechanics and by Honda. A part gets loose within the car and needs to be adjusted or replaced”

“Lights behind the gauges needed to be replaced”

“Part of the dashboard background lighting does not light up. The gauages are fine”

“gaslight went out, it is now working”

“Rear brake lights not working. Not due to a burned bulb. Was electrical”

“Break light falsely on when car is started especially in cold weather. The sensor was replaced but sometimes it is on”

“2 issues - The brake lights were out. Not a significant problem, but an issue since the panel that indicates this had gone out as well, we had no idea there was an issue. We had to have the warning light indicator replaced”

“My lights would dim and seemed to be generally dimmer than other cars on road. Mechanic suggested replacing an electrical relay rather than the whole module. A bulletin suggested that this had been an issue with some accords. Replacing the relay sav”

“intermittent wiper setting not working. Was told that whole computer would have to be replaces. Did not repair”

“A/C was not cooling”

“failed ,had to replace with new one”

“That is only a guess. I have nort had the problem diagnosed”

“Compressor broke, only 78000 miles and feels like bad quality”

“Relay switch burned out, needed replacement”

“Loss of refrigerant caused by leaking/damaged condenser, needs replacement”

“Radiator developed a leak and needed replacement. Also, a tube that ran from the radiator to the outlet near the window wore through with age and was replaced”

“Having to replace refrigerant every year”

“Needs an annual Freon charge”

“Suspect that I need to replace the air conditioning compressor unit”

“The hose from the compressor leaked over the winter, allowing the refrigerant to leak out”

“It may be a compressor issue. One side works the other side of the duel climate control is hot when you want cold , and cold when you want hot”

“This is my 2nd Accord. The 1st one I drove for 10+ years. Both cars developed mold in the AC system. Periodically the AC must be be set to recirculate air, run on high with generous amounts of Lysol sprayed into the internal vents. Very annoying”

“catalytic converter lost efficiency due to substrate breaking free from housing”

“Set off check engine light and had to be replaced- It did effect driving but had to be replaced to clear the check engine light and pass inspection”

“O2 sensor failed. Expensive repair (parts cost)”

“I've driven with the check engine light on for over a year now”

“Check engine light”

“Engine Check light came on. Using a OBD2 diagnostic code checker, it indicated the 'Denso 234-9014 Air Fuel Ratio Sensor' was bad. <http://www.amazon.com/Denso-234-9014-Fuel-Ratio-Sensor/dp/B000C5UFW6/> It was easily accessible, in front, on the”

“replaced oxygen sensor”

“O2 sensor needed to be replaced”

“just needed replacing”

“Car is misfiring and running lean”

“High idle speed”

“CD changer stopped playing & would not eject CD”

“Rejects CDs”

“cruise control stopped working. This is a real problem on longer trips, especially on throughways, expressways, etc”

“Cruise control button not working”

“Sometimes my odometer will have blank spaces & I am unable to read the mileage, then it will clear”

“After five years of owning the car the backlight for the screen that displays the clock, temperature settings and radio burned out. The cost to fix was over 200.00. I didn't fix”

“The display on the radio showing the station # intermittantly looses pixels”

“This car had 75000 miles on it when "due to the age of the car" there was a leaking balancer shaft seal causing the car to lose all oil. This was repaired and the timing belt etc. was replaced. The engine now seems to be fine”

“A new valve cover gasket set and a new O ring on distributor were installed”

“Radiator filler neck cracked where it joins the radiator causing the car to loose coolant which resulted in a head gasket failure causing internal damage to the engine resulting in a rebuild of the engine”

“auto change at 150000 Km; this is 2nd change”

“Timing belt came very close to breaking during highway driving. Mechanic said, "It could have ripped your engine apart...you're so f'ing lucky." It DIDN'T, fortunately, but hearing that was very scary!”

“Did not cause any problem with running of engine, but is expensive ($600)”

“rear drivers side door does not open from the outside even when unlocked. Door can be pushed open from the inside”

“Significant windshield cracking from a rock chip”

“Rear door exterior handle broke off”

“Rear door on driver's side will not open. Dealer replaced handle, after 4 visits still does not work”

“Driver side back door outside door handle latch quit working. Can only open from inside door handle”

“Rotor out call failure resulted in disabled car requiring tow”

“distributer failed and then a second unrelated problem caused the engine to stall. I don't recall what that problem was”

“Thermostat failed, causing the engine to overheat, in turn causing other heat-related engine problems: burnt fuel residue in engine caused misfiring. Had to open the engine and clean valves, etc. by hand. Only problem i have ever had with this car”