Honda Accord Change Vehicle

"brakes/calipers repeatedly make noise when brakes applied"

"Right rear caliper parking brake was frozen. I replaced it with a reman caliper myself."

"REPLACED"

"The early wear signal failed to alert me to excessive wear. By the time the breaks were serviced, rotors and calipers were worn out and had to be replaced."

"REPLACED"

"left calipre failed after 12 yrs. of driving. Honda has a calipre lubrification programm which kept these calipres operational for 12 years. Finally one failed - changed both"

"Brake pedal would go to the floor. I replaced the master cylinder myself."

"No big problem. When I had a tire repaired from puncture, the serviceman said the brake pads were low and should be replaced. This was done promptly and without major expense."

"Replaced front breaks die to grinding sound"

"Brake line corrosion. It took a couple of trips to really diagnose."

"Brakes needed replacement"

"I had all the brakes replaced after 145,000"

"Rusted brake lines"

"they put new pads on to go with the new rotors"

"I had the break system flushed. Water in the line could cause it to rust out. In this case the expense was probably worth it"

"Brakes had to be replaced"

"brakes wear out too often"

"Took car in for maintenance and needed rear brakes"

"First brake replacement in many years"

"I did not notice any problems. The car was taken in for the yearly state inspection and I was told the brake pads need to be changed"

"front disc brakes pads wore out and needed to be replaced"

"Normal wear"

"Parking brake light was remaining on."

"Brakes failed completely"

"Both front and rear brakes regularly require maintenance or replacement far more often than I have experienced on any of my other vehicles"

"RR rotor had to be replaced due to rusted out splash shield"

"The brakes appear to last 12k miles before requiring service"

"excessive brake pad wear on the rear brakes"

"Brake pads on all four wheels wore down after only two years"

"break lines rusted out (and fuel lines rusted out)"

"The brakelines ruptured while driving the vehicle. The lines had rusted and simply failed. It was terrifying as I could barely stop the car."

"Clock needed new backlight bulb. I bought it from Honda and installed it myself. Refrigerant was low (after about 17 years), needed refilling. Rear brakes worn out, wheel cylinders leaking. . Needed to get parts from far away because the car is old. Inconvenient to leave the car overnight, but understandable. Squeaking was the sound that alerted me to the brake trouble. It wasn't exactly squeaking, but that's a close enough description."

"The brake line rusted through possibly due to the line running through a channel that collects moisture"

"Lost count of the number of times I have had to replace rotors. Honda really needs to address this issue."

"NOISE,VIBRATION"

"the rotors were warped and needed replaced"

"Three times, including today, I have had brake work done due to vibrating when braking at 20 to 25 mph Today, Honda Livermore said there is nothing wrong with my brakes. I agreed to having the rotors re-surfaced which corrected the problem"

"won't stay true--required several turnings, then had to be replaced"

"Oil leak Brakes: they were squeaking very loudly. I took my car in to my mechanic who said I needed new front brakes"

"Coating inside torque converter came off went through transmission causing a need to rebuild transmission"

"The torque converter needed to be replaced with the transmission rebuild"

"Cost to replace/rebuild transmission is greater than book value of this car."

"completely broke down."

"During May of 2015, the transmission started shifting hard and iraticly. Purchased rebuilt transmission from Willow Creek Transmission for 995.00. I was able to get transmission installed for 300.00. The transmission exchange resolved the problem."

"Trans would not down shift. Had to be replacec"

"Transmission was shifting rough for awhile than stopped shifting completely"

"After 200,000+ miles, my transmission stopped shifting properly. Given, I had no other major issues with the vehicle, I decided to rebuild the transmission rather than purchase a new car."

"Transmission replaced by dealership"

"transmission was rebuilt according to specs. It continues to shift roughly. It has been taken back to the shop 6 times and all things checked good. Now when the engine is cold, the transmission takes forever to go into second and then lurches into the gear and is rough in subsequent gear shifts. This particular car year and model has been famous for terrible transmission issues"

"Rebuilt 3 years ago and now needs it again"

"Actually, we were told the transmission was failing and needed to be replaced and that it would cost at least 5000 dollars to replace, so we have continued to use it as is since it still drives, but do not take it on the highway"

"stopped cold on snowy night. needed to be towed to dealer. $5000 repair, but I plan to drive at least another 50k miles with this great car. love not having car payments and lots of metal around me"

"Dash light was on, so could not pass inspection for plates. At 169,500 original miles, decided to have the numbers matching transmission rebuilt, with all factory recommendations & upgrades, since 2002. $2,200."

"Automatic transmission hesitated when moving from stop and jerky when changing gears on uphill street. Reviewing this Honda problem on the internet revealed many having this problem in late 1990s and early 2000s. Settlement reached covering vehicles through 2001. Contacted Honda regarding possible partial reimbursement of $5000 transmission rebuild - denied; too bad, sosad."

"The transmission error code showed on the trouble lights. Both the Honda dealer and an independent shop reported that the transmission needed to be rebuilt or replace. I had it replaced with a rebuilt transmission."

"My transmission had to be rebuilt after putting over 250K miles on it. The original transmission was replaced under warranty within a year of my purchase. After I purchased the car, I was aware that this model had transmission issues. Based on the way I've taken care of this car over the past 17 years, I would attribute this issue to wear and tear. Because I've had no other major issues with this car, I decided to have the transmission rebuilt rather than purchase a new car. If this rebuild lasts the next 2 years, I'll be satisfied with this decision."

"Total automatic transmission failure at 55,000 miles. Required new transmission. Very common defect known by Honda. This is a systematic problem with their transmissions, No access to change tranny filter w/o disassemble entire transmission"

"slow and hard shifting up ship plus delay shifting from forward to reverse"

"check engine liht came on at 55,000 miles, and it turned out thetransmission was no longer good"

"Just completed the installation of a Factory rebuilt transmission and it is working very well"

"Have been told by several transmission rebuilding companies that it is not at all unusual for the older Hondas to need a new transmission between 100,000 to 150,000 miles. This apparently foes all the way up to and a little past 2008"

"slipping trans replaced after a year of driving on it"

"replaced transmission in 2013"

"it died...as many from that era have"

"slipping needed replacement @ 125000 miles all my cost no break from honda"

"With barely 90k on the car the trans went out. Slipping and slamming into gear. My wife babies this car and has taken very good care of it sense we bought it with just 20k on it. The trans should have lasted much longer"

"Had to replace the transmission at 113000"

"Coating inside Torque Converter came off went through transmission had to have transmission rebuilt. Never did fail but engine light told us there was problem"

"Transmission slipped when shifting into and out of 2nd gear"

"didn't shift right"

"I am totally annoyed with Honda... they know there is a problem with the 2002 transmissions.. mine failed - decreased the value of resale by about $5000 - and they refuse to do anything about it... I used to love them,now I will look at other brands!"

"Transmission slipped in gear, delayed shifting gears. A transmission replacement was recommended, but the cylinder head cracked before the work could be scheduled. The car is being scrapped now"

"I perform excellent preventive maintenance on all my car transmissions and was surprised the transmission failed"

"Transmission failure due to valve shift solenoid problems. Replacement transmission is also now showing signs of wear"

"The transmission failed at 205000 km and needed to a have a total rebuild. Many of these kilometers were down on the highway and this seemed like premature failure of such a major component of the drivetrain"

"Shifting between 1st and 2nd is sometime rough. I've decided not to try anything due to the advise it may get worse and I don't want to rebuild the whole transmission. Factors such as acceleration and going uphill affect whether it is rough."

"Rough shifting lead to transmission replacement"

"Seem not to engage in 2nd gear but goes from 1st to 3rd"

"Clunks when shifting from 1-2 and 2-3"

"Has been shifting rough between 1-2 for 100 000km. Seems to be stable, had transmission fluid leak, that might have caused the problem. I got used to driving softly"

"As one speeds up the engine starts to race and then slam into the higher gear."

"Transmission does not shift properly from 2 to 3rd gear"

"delay and hard shift between forward and reverse"

"manual clutch engaged at end of pedal release..started slipping"

"apparent fluid cooling problem w/ potential torque converter failure...sometimes acts like it will not shift to next higher gear"

"The rough shifting and fluid leaking gave us the indication that there were some internal issues with the transmission and so we had it rebuilt"

"Kept telling dealer about it. Car would "kick" when going from stopping at stop sign to moving again"

"Rough shift into 2nd gear from above or below. Transmission shop says total rebuild is required but I am waiting for it to fail completely before repairing"

"My mechanic states I will have to have my transmission replaced within a few months. He will let me know when, as he also does the oil changes"

"Slow to shift. Independent mechanic says we need a rebuild, but we're babying it along, as a rebuild would cost more ($3500-$5000) than the car's value. Tried Lukas transmission additive, which may be helping, as car continues to run two years later"

"When shifting gears, transmission was rough between Park, Reverse and Drive"

"Transmission continuing to fail, we have already lined up where we are getting our replacement tranny for this future job. We do love this car!"

"About three years ago, it started not wanting to shift from first to second. When it did it jerks, worse in colder weather. I found that if I let up on the accelerator and then apply foot again, it shifts. Stuck valve? Still driving it!"

"At times slips when shifting going into second"

"Started slipping intermittently, then got worse with time. After researching, talking to mechanics, and others, and not wanting to pay for a transmission rebuild - which is more than the value of the car, read that a weak battery could cause slippage. Put in a new battery, and slippage has reduced significantly. Can regularly drive the car again. Still slips on occasion, and will likely need to be serviced in the future."

"Trans bangs between first and second gear. Been told that if I change fluid it may detract from reliablity of transmission. Expected 250000 miles from car when I purchased it if I took good care of it. Afraid to do work on transmission because I can't justify the cost of a new or rebuilt transmission"

"Automatic transmission was 'soft' ever since it was purchased. 100% urban driving over last 10years resulted in transmission slipping between 2nd to 3rd gear; total ~70,000 miles of urban driving"

"See rough shifting"

"when vehicle shifting from first into 2nd, it slips more when not fully warmed up, under 5 miles"

"Bought car from mother in law's estate. Learned from a dealer it was in recall for trassmission several yrs before purchase. No indication it was fixed. Was advised replacement cost more than value of car"

"rough 1st to 2nd shift"

"This is a problem known by Honda in their 6th generation accords. The automatic transmissions are known to fail from 90,000 - 120,000 miles. Slipping and rough shifts are usually a warning sign to this eventual failure"

"problems were leading up to rebuilt @ 125000 starting at about 100000 miles"

"The transmission is currently slipping but we are babying the car because we cannot afford to replace it at this time. The transmission for the Odyssey van cost $3500 and this one will be almost the same. Maybe next year"

"The auto slips slightly when accelerating through the gears. I have not had it fixed, as the slippage is tolerable"

"Part of the overall trans problem"

"Transmission is slipping from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd is now not normal"

"transmission do not shift in low gear, because of lack of pressure"

"I had the transmission drained and refilled. They refilled the transmission fluid. but did not flush it. Probably the filter is clogged and there is a minor leak. It would be expensive to have the transmission overhauled"

"Mechanic replace front seals to stop the transmission leak, then determined that the problem was the both front and rear seals...wants to tear the car apart again for $$$$...I can deal with the leak"

"Water/moisture was accumulating on the inside of the car windows due to clogged weep holes around the sunroof whenever rain/snow would accumulate on the vehicle."

"coolant leak diagnosed as a radiator leak. Radiator replaced with no further issues."

"A water leak that soaked the driver's footwell was found to be a disconnected hose (behind the foot pedals) that runs from sunroof to a drain under the car."

"Radiator went, needed to be replaced"

"Every time it rains, the driver's side floor board gets soaked"

"Water leak into vehicle cabin -unsure of source site- water on floor of driver's area. Not from around windshield/windows"

"Water leaks into the trunk. I believe it is coming in through one of the body panel seams. Attempt to seal the leak have been unsuccessful"

"sun roof drain tubes leak into cabin floor. siliconed roof window shut and pulled cb."

"drain tube for sunroof was plugged causing an interior leak. this was an easy fix"

"radiator hose broke"

"Water standing in driver floorboard, traced to clog in drainage system for sunroof. Successfully fixed"

"previously mentioned"

"Had two 6 cd changers put in this car and they both went bad in a few months. People can't seem to get it right. CD changer presently not working. Expense is really high from Honda. Do not get a 6 cd changer. single changer works better"

"Within the last six months water forms on the driver side floor when the vehicle is left out in heavy rain."

"THE RUBBER THAT SEELS THE DOOR IS COMING OUT"

"sunroof drain leaks water into rear pax floor. Body to trunk structural seams leak melt water during winter months"

"sun roof leaked"

"Rattling noise in the rear of the car for the last month. So far, it has not affected the car's performance or reliability"

"rattles noise coming under carriage could not locate where it coming from"

"related to the from springs"

"Have had several parts replaced but noises continue"

"I had struts replaced 2 years ago, and since that time I have a rattle under the car the is very loud when ever the road is even mildly rough. I have had the mechanic try to find what is causing this 3 diff times"

"Rattle in R and L front wheel wells especially when turning hard. Dealer claims heat shields are bent, but 3 repairs still haven't fixed it"

"loud squeak/rattle in the rear suspension area of the car"

"Front suspension makes noises on bumpy country roads"

"Radial caused by screws from under dashboard, which dealer can not find to fix"

"Drivers side has considerable wind noise. Weather stripping problem? Not sure."

"window win d noise at high way speed"

"There is wind noise when driving on driver's side. Maybe the weather stripping or something is not working properly."

"very pronounce wind noise coming from door windows at high way speed"

"the stripping around the doors has always been loose and it is VERY noisy esp when driving freeway speeds WHILE the wind is blowing"

"Traveling the interstate wind noise is very noticiable from the driver and front passenger windows"

"It went out. $400 to repair. Considering the mileage, this wasn't a problem"

"The catalytic convertor failed, but I got 207,000 miles use from it. I actually think that is amazing"

"The catalytic converter was pretty old and it needed a change"

"I think it was the flex pipe connecting to the engine which rusted out"

"Due to holes in pipes that were replaced"

"Car has original (2002) exhaust system. Exhaust leaked near the catalytic converter flange. Auto shop welded the leak, problem solved, original exhaust system remains in tact"

"Well, This was a Exhaust Manifold with California emissions, so the exhaust manifold is designed very different from other EX models, cleaning up the carbon buildup is very difficult as it has only one outlet under the EGR valve. So I had to put extr"

"started this year, made a lot of noise. replaced"

"Noise due to faulty catalatic converter"

"Pipe connected to (after market) muffler rusted out."

"Rough sounding...assuming from muffler or one of the various connecting pipes"

"muffler had hole rusted through"

"Muffler did not work properly. There was a leak and the noise was not acceptable"

"small hole in the muffler"

"Recalled and fixed but repair caused other malfunction"

"was actually a belt tensioner that set off SRS light--replaced under warranty"

"SRS light on. Problem with airbag in passenger seat"

"recall and light"

"Drivers airbag replaced 2x due to recalls. Drs light will not reset."

"Side airbag light came on after front airbag was replaced under recall"

"This is a recall item"

"The airbags were recalled, now a second time. There is a red light that can be turned off, but comes on right afterwards. I was told it's OK"

"There's a smell sometimes in the trunk. My mechanic told me there was a problem, but it's not severe and I haven't had it fixed yet."

"Deterioration due to age"

"exhaust pipe rusted through and fell apart"

"Pipes rusted out due to age"

"Connecting flanges deteriorated, had non-dealer service center install a "Sleeve" to connect pipes"

"The car had two thin spots just before and just after the converter. Piping was thin enough to make replacing the converters without replacing the pipes a pointless expense"

"check engine light. Replace o2 sensor, twice -in the last 3-4 years. check engine light still unresolved. charcoal canister assembly was fixed in summer, 2018, permanently solve check engine light problem."

"The engine had to be cleaned because of the recycled burned fuel"

"failed bypass solenoid /2way valve, then afterward (second repair) to replace charcoal canister that only was noted after solenoid valve replace and system reconnected. total cost $1000"

"Sensor Malfunctioning Reporting loss of fuel Pressure but Pressure was constant"

"catalytic converter lost efficiency due to substrate breaking free from housing"

"Car is misfiring and running lean"

"High idle speed"

"sensor, catalytic converter failed"

"The dashboard light for the engine sensor stayed on."

"Engine warning light came on. Two pre issue catalytic converter sensors had to be replaced. Expensive."

"Engine light came on and needed to be repaired prior to smog inspection. The vehicle is not worth repairing because of value of vehicle."

"o2 sensor twice replaced. Check engine light for fuel system. Rusting out."

"I probably mentioned this before. The Engine-Check light came on and the OBD II diagnostic instrument that I own, showed a problem with a specific exhaust sensor. Fortunately, this sensor is right on top of the exhaust manifold and easily replaceable. Purchase the OEM sensor and the needed special tool from Amazon. Part cost was half of what the dealer charges, and I saved the labor cost. Cleared the fault in the ODB II computer and everything was ready to go."

"Caused the Check Engine light to come on. Diagnostics pinpointed cause as the "lift sensor" which needed replacing."

"unable to pass mandated Emissions Test; paid a mechanic to change Oxygen Sensor"

"Set off check engine light and had to be replaced- It did effect driving but had to be replaced to clear the check engine light and pass inspection"

"O2 sensor failed. Expensive repair (parts cost)"

"I've driven with the check engine light on for over a year now"

"Engine light stayed on. Had to replace 02 Sensor for $160. I'm in Pennsylvania but this sensor was equal to the California Sensor for some reason. We put the cheaper Pa. type Sensor in but this did not work and had to return it. The better (California?) Sensor solved the problem."

"Vehicle did not pass Washington state emission test. New O2 sensor required."

"Check engine light"

"Engine Check light came on. Using a OBD2 diagnostic code checker, it indicated the 'Denso 234-9014 Air Fuel Ratio Sensor' was bad. <http://www.amazon.com/Denso-234-9014-Fuel-Ratio-Sensor/dp/B000C5UFW6/> It was easily accessible, in front, on the"

"replaced oxygen sensor"

"O2 sensor needed to be replaced"

"just needed replacing"

"The compressor started to fall apart , had to have it replaced"

"A/C was not cooling"

"ac compressor had to be replaced."

"failed ,had to replace with new one"

"That is only a guess. I have nort had the problem diagnosed"

"Compressor broke, only 78000 miles and feels like bad quality"

"can't get ventilation through the system unless A/C is turned on, have to use open windows"

"It may be a compressor issue. One side works the other side of the duel climate control is hot when you want cold , and cold when you want hot"

"This is my 2nd Accord. The 1st one I drove for 10+ years. Both cars developed mold in the AC system. Periodically the AC must be be set to recirculate air, run on high with generous amounts of Lysol sprayed into the internal vents. Very annoying"

"Relay switch burned out, needed replacement"

"Replaced the transistor that controls the blower speed. The blower was replaced even though it operated OK! No explanation as to why! @ $750 by Honda dealer!"

"Loss of refrigerant caused by leaking/damaged condenser, needs replacement"

"A/C had less cooling than normal. Mechanic recharged AC. failed to solve, mechanic replaced expansion / mixing valve and recharged. Works great again."

"It didn't cool, a real problem in Oklahoma, except it is my spare car, so I don't drive it much. I tried having freon added, but it was gone in a day. A neighbor person offered to fix it. He did."

"No leak could be detected, but had to add refrigerant to cool"

"The refrigerant leaks out over time so the the A/C doesn't work fully. When I have more coolant added the A/C works for a time and then it doesn't. It would be very expensive to fix, easier and cheaper to do it this way."

"Radiator developed a leak and needed replacement. Also, a tube that ran from the radiator to the outlet near the window wore through with age and was replaced"

"Having to replace refrigerant every year"

"Needs an annual Freon charge"

"Suspect that I need to replace the air conditioning compressor unit"

"The hose from the compressor leaked over the winter, allowing the refrigerant to leak out"

"cruise control no longer will control fuel flow (still sets, and will - oddly - downshift the transmission when speed falls, but can't "push on the gas")"

"One of the tail lights has burned out a few times"

"One brake light works intermittently. Dealer has been unable to fix"

"Same problem over the life of the car - brake lights go on, on their own when the car is off, and drain the battery. It has been repaired by outside mechanics and by Honda. A part gets loose within the car and needs to be adjusted or replaced"

"Light bulbs 6 had to be replaced"

"electronic odometer no longer displays"

"Bulb went out - replaced the bulb"

"The light illuminating the dashboard is out. Hard to see at night. The light next to the shifter is out as well. Can't see which mode I've shifted into at night."

"Some dashboard and the clock back-lights are dark but the cost of replacing is very high because the entire instrument panel must be removed for a fix, and this car is not expected to run much longer."

"Speedometer lights died"

"Interior trunk light is iffy. Goes on when it wants to, sometimes. Also, check engine light comes on and off randomly, defies fixing, according to longtime mechanic."

"Lights behind the gauges needed to be replaced"

"Part of the dashboard background lighting does not light up. The gauages are fine"

"gaslight went out, it is now working"

"SRS light is constantly on"

"Rear brake lights not working. Not due to a burned bulb. Was electrical"

"Break light falsely on when car is started especially in cold weather. The sensor was replaced but sometimes it is on"

"2 issues - The brake lights were out. Not a significant problem, but an issue since the panel that indicates this had gone out as well, we had no idea there was an issue. We had to have the warning light indicator replaced"

"intermittent wiper setting not working. Was told that whole computer would have to be replaces. Did not repair"

"Cannot load CD"

"6 CD Player stopped playing, and would no longer eject discs or change which disc was selected"

"The six disk CD player was first replaced under warranty It has since quit operating again! ."

"No longer accepts or plays CD's"

"CD changer stopped playing & would not eject CD"

"Rejects CDs"

"Sometimes my odometer will have blank spaces & I am unable to read the mileage, then it will clear"

"clock goes blank randomly, then resets. buttons for heat and air conditioning and defrost windshield go blank randomly, then rest randomly."

"After five years of owning the car the backlight for the screen that displays the clock, temperature settings and radio burned out. The cost to fix was over 200.00. I didn't fix"

"Sound system comes on and off at will. Dealer said there was a recall, but when I took it in VIN was not covered by recall. several hundred $'s to fix."

"The display on the radio showing the station # intermittantly looses pixels"

"cruise control stopped working. This is a real problem on longer trips, especially on throughways, expressways, etc"

"Cruise control button not working"

"the window regulator died the day after I bought the car"

"rear drivers side door does not open from the outside even when unlocked. Door can be pushed open from the inside"

"Significant windshield cracking from a rock chip"

"Rear door exterior handle broke off"

"Rear door on driver's side will not open. Dealer replaced handle, after 4 visits still does not work"

"Driver side back door outside door handle latch quit working. Can only open from inside door handle"

"The lamp assembly on the trunk lid collects water when it rains. So stale water runs out, onto trunk contents when one opens the trunk. And the key or lock has worn down so much that one cannot unlock the trunk. Instead, one must use the interior cable release."

"Passenger side power window would intermittently stop working. I replaced the motor myself and it works now."

"Window motor failed."

"Within last year front drivers window malfunctioned. This is the second window failure in the last ~5 years"

"The propulsion system for the drivers side window broke, i.e. it was stuck closed"

"Car stopped and had to be towed. Could not be restarted. Auto repair shop said it needed to replace engine"

"oil sender had to be replaced. Now the car has two different oil leaks that would cost $1000 to fix. The car isn't worth fixing."

"This car had 75000 miles on it when "due to the age of the car" there was a leaking balancer shaft seal causing the car to lose all oil. This was repaired and the timing belt etc. was replaced. The engine now seems to be fine"

"A new valve cover gasket set and a new O ring on distributor were installed"

"Radiator filler neck cracked where it joins the radiator causing the car to loose coolant which resulted in a head gasket failure causing internal damage to the engine resulting in a rebuild of the engine"

"Did not cause any problem with running of engine, but is expensive ($600)"

"While the timing belt has not failed were told it may and should be replaced at great expense, if it is considered a normal maintenance requirement should be cheaper or more accessible."

"auto change at 150000 Km; this is 2nd change"

"Timing belt came very close to breaking during highway driving. Mechanic said, "It could have ripped your engine apart...you're so f'ing lucky." It DIDN'T, fortunately, but hearing that was very scary!"

"replaced battery with a new one"

"Normal battery failure due to age. Replaced battery. No more problems"

"The distributor cap split and was replaced."

"Rotor out call failure resulted in disabled car requiring tow"

"distributer failed and then a second unrelated problem caused the engine to stall. I don't recall what that problem was"

"Radiator cracked causing rapid loss of coolant."

"Original radiator worn out."

"Thermostat failed, causing the engine to overheat, in turn causing other heat-related engine problems: burnt fuel residue in engine caused misfiring. Had to open the engine and clean valves, etc. by hand. Only problem i have ever had with this car"

"pump ran 324000 Km; changed to new when timing chain was changed, as a precaution"