Honda Accord Change Vehicle

“Front strut nuts began to make noise. Replaced by warranty”

“noise”

“Several of the bolts that attached the tire to struts came loose, creating a loud screeching noise every time I turned the vehicle. Honda Dealer admitted manufacturing defect and replaced at no charge. Honda had published a service bulletin on the issue”

“Rear struts had to be replaced”

“The front driver side strut was installed incorrectly at the manufacturing plant, causing a loud popping noise resulting in uneven tire wear”

“Defective front driver side strut was replaced under warranty”

“Clunking/rattling sound in front by drivers side while going at slower speeds, that went away at highway driving. Also clunked when turning the wheel when backing up. Repair turned out to be a faulty locking nut on strut”

“RF strut replaced under warranty due to clunking noise”

“The car began making a thunking noise during right turns. The dealer replace the nuts on the strut. There was a service bulletin on this. It was a quick repair and covered by warranty. So, only notable because the car was so new”

“front driver's side strut bolt loose.fixed under warranty”

“Left front strut nut was not tightened correctly at the factory and gradually loosened causing lots of noise. This was corrected at a dealership while on a road trip”

“Broken (right/front) strut mount had to be replaced. Vehicle was less than 6 months old when problem first started (heard a knocking noise when turning)”

“Front strut tower makes a popping sound ,due from lack of a rubber gasket to separate the mount from strut tower when turning causing friction”

“Left front strut was making clicking noise. Replaced by dealer”

“Lower shock bolt not torqued or tightened properly at factory. Which cause a rattle every time you hit a bump”

“Car was making clunking noises a week after purchase. Dealership took struts apart and repacked and torqued them and problem resolved. Was covered by warranty”

“Nuts/Bolts on left strut were lose. Caused some minor noise and grinding. Easily fixed”

“Had a loud clunk in front right suspension every time we made a sharp left turn. Dealer fixed the issue by tightening some bolts on passenger side front strut. Problem was resolved under warranty with on trip to the dealer”

“Covered by 36,000 mile warranty, but several of the bolts came loose on the springs attached to the struts. It made a loud screeching noise whenever I turned the vehicle. Honda Dealer fixed with no issues”

“went out of alignment causing premature tire wear and replacement”

“Even though I had the "tire warranty" and it was Honda's fault, it still cost me $150 for a new tire”

“wheel bearing had to be replaced at 38000 miles”

“Failing bearings caused increased noise. It was repaired by the dealer under warranty, at no cost to me”

“Noise and vibration in one rear wheel. Honda dealer fixed for free”

“Power steering totally went out. Fortunately it was in the driveway”

“Steering makes a wrapping noise while turning the wheel at low speed. Took it in to get looked at but not fixed. This is a minor issue but annoying”

“Vibration at 20 to 40 MPH while drifting along. More severe in cold weather. Honda rep states same problem only worse in CRV's - no fix available yet”

“Vibration was thought to be wheel balance, but still have minor vibration”

“had to be replaced”

“A/C compressor failed and was replaced via warranty. Freon recharged about three months after being purchased in Jan., 2014”

“refrigerant leaks”

“ac did not cool”

“This system is the worst i have ever had in any car i have owner. You cannot get heat without turned the system up to 86 or HI. If you set it at 72 or 74 the system blows cold air. In cold weather below 40 the car takes forever to provide heat”

“Stays on recirculate”

“temperature control on passenger side would automatically go to high causing passenger to need to reset often”

“air conditioner doesn't blow strongly, even at higher settings”

“Lost coolant. Dealer did diagnostic, repaired car and have not had an issue since”

“I bought car in winter. When summer came I noticed AC didn't work. Dealer said refrigerant leaked, and replaced it. The same thing later happened, this time they discovered a bad weld which was the cause of the leak. They fixed and refilled,”

“air conditioner had to have refrigerant added twice because of leak”

“Freon recharged about three months after being purchased in Jan., 2014”

“Not filled properly at factory”

“A/C refrigerant leaked after 8 months”

“Keeps getting louder. Dealer says it is not a problem. Problem may be with dealer”

“See above explanation for the evaporator. After 3 visits, the problem is still not resolved”

“would not cool, refrigerant added, problem continued, after the second time in the shop, they replaced the condenser since it had a hole in it”

“Build up of moisture from the evaporator/condensor system causes mold/mildew to grow which sends a horrible odor into the passenger cabin whether using the AC or Heater. The Honda workaround is unacceptable: always use recirculated AC”

“Low heater output. 30Km commute to work on coldest days the car did not get comfortably warm. Brought back to dealer and they found nothing wrong. Other than this one issue this car is a 10”

“heat doesn't get warm enough. The manual says to run the heat with the vents open, then all of the heat goes out the vents. if you run the heat with the vents closed, the windows fog up”

“We took our 2014 Honda Accord into the dealer for routine maint. (oil, tire rotation) and the Service Rep at the Honda Dealer told us the batter was leaking and had eaten through the batter cable. It was 2.5 years old. Due to miles, it wasn't covered under warranty. They replaced the batter and cleaned up the cable - charging for both. 6 days later the starter died, stranding us in a parking lot 30 miles from the dealer. We had to pay for towing to the dealer, the Mfgr paid for the starter”

“On 2 occasions battery wouldn't start. One had to call for jump”

“It had to be replaced.....after much trouble with the Honda people”

“Car would not start sometimes. When the push button starter was pushed, nothing would happen. Took vehicle to the dealership several times and was told nothing was wrong. Several scan tests and diagnostics were performed. Continues to happen intermittently to this day”

“The engine was unable to start because of a bad relay”

“Ignition switch began with some difficulty starting then progressed to every time. Dealer replaced the ignition switch, it has been fine since it was replaced”

“Starter had to be replaced”

“Sometimes especially in cold weather the starter will not engage and just whines”

“bad starter needed replacement”

“starter went completely out and would not start car at 35,800 miles. Since car was still under warranty (36,000 miles) dealer arranged to have car towed & replaced starter at no charge”

“Starting the Accord became very unreliable. Most times it started w/o a problem. Sometimes though it took a dozen tries over a 10 minute period. Honda Service Dept. is replacing the starter today for $800”

“We took our 2014 Honda Accord into the dealer for routine maint. (oil, tire rotation) and the Service Rep at the Honda Dealer told us the batter was leaking and had eaten through the batter cable. It was 2.5 years old. Due to miles, it wasn't covered under warranty. They replaced the batter and cleaned up the cable - charging for both. 6 days later the starter died, stranding us in a parking lot 30 miles from the dealer. We had to pay for towing to the dealer, the Mfgr paid for the starter”

“Starter was not always cranking when the key was turned. Dealer replaced starter under used car warranty”

“Car did not start. Starter Motor replaced. Car still under warranty/extended warranty. Car towed by Honda to shop. Service performed at no charge, and completed same day”

“Had growing issue this year with starting that turned out to be old battery (4 yo battery, so was due for replacement) and, more significantly, a starter motor failure at 70,285 miles. This was not covered by the warranty so parts ($520.09) and labor ($202.50) for a total of $723. I have never had a starter motor failure in any car that I have owned even up to over 200K miles. If my starter failed, I wonder how many other Honda starters fail this early”

“Spark plug failure on this vehicle occurred 4 times. The failure made the car un drive able”

“not working properly with door controls”

“Seems to have a loose connection, which will cause my Ipod to quit functioning. I have to jiggle the plug while inserted to make contact”

“tire pressure light”

“fuse blowned”

“The doors will not remain locked. Others with 2014 Accords have had the same problem. The manual even says that when it rains heavily, the doors will unlock. But they unlock at random times, as well”

“At night when the headlights are on low beam, the line of vision is cut dramatically. For some reason, there appears to be a "shield" over the top of line of vision. I have talked with the service department and they say there is nothing that can b”

“Moisture inside the rear light boxes”

“Turn signals would not work”

“Backup lights do not provide enough light to see obstructions behind the car. Front lights do not provide any light to the sides so difficult to see to turn into a narrow street or driveway”

“Came on due to low pressure. When problem fixed, light would not go-off”

“Speed sensor on left rear wheel was installed incorrectly at factory, or was defective or loose. Caused intermittent warning lights on dashboard for 4-6 weeks until dealership could diagnose problem. Required 3 trips to dealership”

“Tire pressure light came on. Checked the tires and put air in them where the pressure was lower than recommended. Followed instructions to re-calibrate TPMS. Next day, same thing happened but all of the tires were recommended pressure”

“tire pressure lights come on, but pressure is always normal”

“light came on after tires rotation”

“AFTER MY EFFORTS TO INFLATE PRESSURE LIGT I WENT TO TWO GARAGES & THEY WERE UNABLE TO GET LIGHT OUT AFTER PROPER INFLATION”

“Inaccurate readings. Especially when the temperature changes”

“Stuck rear calipers. Parts ordered. Awaiting call”

“Warranty repair”

“The parking brake stuck which caused the rear brakes to premature ware. Four months earlier I had the rear brake pads & rotors replaced, no mention of sticky parking brake. This time parking brake caused right rear caliper to stick, therefore new caliper was required”

“I have owned 5 Honda Accords over the past 32 years, premature brake wear has always been a problem. This includes the parking brakes sticking although I use the PB regularly”

“One rotor was replaced and pads”

“Rear brakes on one side were worn down considerably. Other side was wearing just fine. Had to replace brakes and rotors. Mileage was just 27000”

“excessive brake dust and uneven wearing of brakes and rotors”

“At around 1500 miles I have to brake harder and harder”

“Had rotors re-surfaced by Sears. Lasted 3 months. Now needs new rotors”

“Front rotors began showing signs of warping around 40K miles, pulsating when stopping. I'm am not hard on the car. Light on the gas and brakes. Front and rear pads were about half life per mechanic. Replaced rotors and pads around 48K”

“Rotors should not have worn at just 27000 miles”

“Again just like the clappers I should not have to replace rotors at this stage re. the age of the vehicle. Assume it was because of the problem with the callipers. I realize that brake pads may need to be changed but not a brake system job”

“Warped rotor from almost the beginning got worse and worse. Finally the dealer agreed to resurface them at 20k miles out of warranty but only a few thoUSnd miles later its starting to warp again. I don't ride the brakes either. :)”

“excessive brake squeaking”

“Noise is coming from the front passenger side inside of the compartment where the seat belt operater.Noise is like inside of the column has a loose plastic and vibrater when the car is moving on uneven road”

“Rear brakes were squeaking...Successfully repaired at dealership”

“Gear shifting is very hard in cold weather, almost feels like a manual transmission with bad shifting”

“Delay in transmission when placing car in reverse”

“Placed in drive and the car would not move”

“On 3 occassions vehicle has stalled and lost all power”

“Currently transmission will not move car when car is cold. Taking into dealer for repair. Also, tranmissions jerks car when starting from stop”

“software update”

“dangerous accelerator delays: when moving very quickly from the break and going immediately to the accelerator in heavy/merging traffic, it is like it is in neutral...doesn't kick into gear; 1-5 seconds. Especially dangerous delays if you ever drive”

“Two leaks had to be fixed 3 months ago”

“CVT leak, dealer tightened bolts and issue appears to be solved”

“A PROBLEM WHEN ACCELERATING, WHEN SLOWING DOWN IN TRAFFIC AND THEN STEPING ON THE GAS THE CAR HESITATES. THIS HAPPENS EVERY DAY I USE THE CAR”

“There is a heavy knocking on my car when the car starts to move. the knock has been there since the day I bought the car and Honda was notified right away, inspectors have checked the car and admit that the knock is there, But Honda will not correct the fault because in their words " It does not affect my safety when driving " the knock is getting worse but Honda refuses to check again”

“With acceleration, it shocks , like knocking suddenly. Don't know. Is it the engine V-6 or transmission? It.s noisy and worrisome”

“Seized up occasionally. Needed to replace under warranty. Carnot leaking oil, rather using oil. Reason yet to be determined. They say this is a new 4 cyi for Honda in 2014. That they had issues with older models”

“Oil pan gasket failed and leaked oil. Gasket was replaced”

“Started lostin 2.5 quarts of oule between changes”

“Oil leak from valve gasket. Fixed by Honda under warranty”

“Valve cover gasket developed a leak at 11 months in service”

“We went on a trip last weekend. Four hours into our trip, the "check charging system" and battery lights came on. We tried and tried to get ahold of our Honda Dealer (Sam Swope)but couldn't get a real person and they didn't return our frantic message”

“There is a paint defect in one door that we opted not to fix. It can only be seen in certain light”

“Found a crack starting on the top inside of the front windshield caused by an white factory installation retainer clip on the inner top portion of the glas caused the star crack”

“All four of the power door locks -- the Individual motors that control each door lock -- failed in a 6-month period. They failed post-warranty and were very expensive to replace! ($250 each -- total cost with tax was over $1,000)”

“At 40,566 miles, I had to replace the door latch of the right-front passenger door. It costed me $224.75”

“Rear seat release from trunk became inoperative and had to be replaced”

“The driver's side mirror has a portion that is about 20% of the mirror on the outside edge that has a different angle and focus. It is very distracting and unsafe”

“Power window broke, replaced under warranty”

“funny noise and slow accelaration”

“First 3 months, had to have gas cap replaced, another part, and the gas tank. Many tests run until the gas tank replaced and since then works fine. Malfunction light kept coming on while traveling and had to take it to a dealer out of town twice”

“Fuel pump failed just as I had passed the warranty mileage. Over $1000 to fix it. Fortunately, I was covered by an expensive extended warranty I bought upon purchasing the car”

“DEALER REVIEWED CAR PERFORMANCE AND MADE ADJUSTMENTS”

“Car lurched and stalled. It seemed as if the gps was on and was vacillating between speeds”

“Front wheel bearing failed at 150miles”

“At 43,200 miles, I had to replace the ALTERNATOR ASSEMBLY for $571.78 plus tax”

“Engine loses most power on snow-covered hill”

“This car had a leaking CV boot, which we had to have replaced, and the car wasn't even 6 months old”

“Exhaust vibration that isn't resolved yet. The engine vibrates at approx. 2000 rpm which causes the exhaust to cause a vibration noise. The engine vibrates only at this rpm when I accelerate or decelerate and especially when gearing down the transm”

“Dealer had to replace entire screen. It did not pair blue tooth. Has worked great these last 11 months”

“System failed and had to be replaced under warranty”

“AHA application shuts down after 1 minute. In-car controls of iPhone music via Bluetooth once worked but have stopped with recent IOS versions. Bluetooth pairing of Pandora app now works only 50% of the time with IOS 8”

“Transmission was leaking. it was replaced”

“The timing belt pulley was bent and leaked fluid. The belt and pulley were replaced under warranty”