Honda CR-V Change Vehicle

"Catalytic converter failed and is very expensive to replace $1,600 plus labor"

"The original catalytic converter failed. It was replaced. The second converter imploded. It was replaced under warranty"

"Catalytic converters failed"

"Fuel cap failure to seal often results in engine trouble code relating to evap emission control"

"Catalytic converters failure"

"The catalytic converter failed and needed replacing. Not bad after over 200,000 miles."

"Can't seem to get fuel cap tight enough at times to keep the dashboard sensor from coming on"

"Warning light indicating fuel cap lose even when it is not lose and $800 service of evaporative system"

"I have had an intermittent engine warning light come on. The code was for the catalytic converter. We found that the gas cap seal was failing. By replacing the cap we have had no more warning lights"

"Catalytic converter had to be replaced at $1200"

"First tried after market cap. Still caused check engine light to come on. Bought an OEM cap and it worked"

"Cap always loosens after closing it after filling tank, resulting in odor, leakage from cap and sometimes an engine trouble code"

"Fuel gauge stopped working. Put in a new fuel pump but problem persisted so replaced the gauge/sender. Had to get a whole new instrument cluster. Manufacturer should allow customers to replace just the faulty gauge. Now the mileage is off. Have to keep the paperwork so when I sell the vehicle it will have accurate mileage"

"Fuel gauge no longer reliably indicates fuel level in tank. Have to use trip meter."

"Fuel gauge was not working so replaced the fuel pump to see if that was the problem. It wasn't. Had to get a whole new instrument cluster for just a faulty gauge"

"Map sensor failed with no advance warning and was expensive to repair"

"Check engine light came on. Ran diagnostics using a purchased tester, replaced sensor and problem is gone"

"The "Check Engine" light came on & our mechanic said it was most likely the oxygen sensor needing to be replaced. My husband will be tackling that repair soon"

"Engine warning light always on. Required replacement of O2 sensor"

"O2 sensor and sensor control module"

"Check engine light came on supposedly indicating catalytic converter needed replacing. Did not replace converter but light went off in the summer, came back on in fall"

"Replaced due to mileage. Also had to replace emission system hoses due to cracking"

"Replaced both sensors"

"check engine light will not go off"

"keep going on and off"

"One of the O2 sensors failed. The indicator light went on and the fuel milage dropped slightly. The O2 sensor was replaced and the problem was fixed"

"Check engine light came on and this was the problem. It could not pass smog testing with check engine light on"

"Not easy to get at which increases cost of replacement"

"both o2 sensors needed to be replaced. Everything wears out eventually, but the replacement cost for the parts - even after market is very expensive"

"Check Engine Light required new oxygen sensors"

"Multiple sensor failures. Dealer charges $95 to diagnose each issue"

"Had to replace oxygen sensor (catalytic converter exhaust sensor) after Check Engine Light would not go out"

"Periodically causes check engine light to go on. Then it turns off. No periodicity or visible reason."

"I had the rear O@ sensor replaced at my expense."

"Some sort of vacuum testing of the fuel tank and system. Does not affect performance, was strictly a sensor problem."

"Knock sensor caused check engine light to come on. I bought the vehicle with this and other problems."

"Engine light came on. Couldn't tell by the way the car drove that anything was wrong with it. Read the code, had the O2 sensor replaced ($386.00) and now the engine light is out. Car still drives fine. Over half way to its first tuneup..."

"Air to fuel sensor had to be replaced we were told that it would not pass the smog test unless that was done, even though we hardly drive the car, since our Prius gets better gas mileage."

"Wore out after 13yrs"

"Replaced ball joints and steering arms."

"Worn out after 13yrs"

"Lines badly position, prone to rust & leak"

"Power steering unit leaked, was replaced and 1) leaks caused rubber on steering components to deteriorate and require replacement, 2) serpentine belt replacement and 3) replacement unit still makes noise."

"Front struts required replacement. Cost $650 at independent mechanic"

"They just wore out and needed to be replaced"

"Struts need to be replaced, but not sure it is worth the investment with 173,000 miles on the CRV"

"two of the struts are leaking oil"

"They just wore out"

"normal wear & tear"

"Struts were leaking fluid; did not handle rough roads well"

"excessive bounce in front end"

"REPLACED FRONT & REAR STRUTS AND SWAY BAR LINKS"

"All four struts replaced due to leakage and/or lack of shock absorbtion"

"Leaking struts in front and rear. Likely due to speed bumps in my neighborhood"

"Struts wore out, which caused uneven tire wear"

"They needed to be replaced because my tires were wearing in a strange way"

"In the 40,000 that I've owned my car, I've had to replace both struts once and now have t replace the front ones again"

"haven't done anything about this."

"Which out the front Struts twice. First time I had Honda put in after market but this came with problems of cheap parts so I bought nicer Struts and had them replaced. I wished I would have gone with OEM originally"

"Steering chatters and squeels when turned hard. Condition has not been corrected yet, but will be in the near future when I can get the car to my repairman"

"A tie rod on the front had become rusted. The car felt as if I didn't have as much control and/or there was something wrong with the brakes"

"needed replacement...old car"

"Weird. Both my Toyota and Honda had a wheel bearing failure within 6 weeks. Had wheel bearing replaced"

"One wheel bearing started going bad (moaning). Replaced by dealer"

"We had a chronic problem with engine error messages displaying on the dash which had to be reset to pass inspection each year"

"The valve timing actuator had to be replaced after the valve cover oil leak was repaired by the dealer. I think that problem may have been caused by the dealer when they replaced that gasket. The check engine light came on shortly after"

"2 needed to be replaced"

"fuel line leak. Had to lower the tank and replace the line. Experience mechanic said it was the most difficult he ever worked on"

"Fuel line rotted out near gas tank."

"Old car leaks oil but more expensive to fix it than refill oil"

"Dealership was not able to resolve the oil leak. Took 7 returns to the dealer before they were able to stop it. But due to carelessness, there is still some residual oil drips on my garage floor. Problem started Dec 2014 till April 2015"

"I bought the car 3 weeks ago from a Consumer Report Buying Guide dealer. One week after purchase, a major oil leak was disclosed"

"leak around the V-Tech valve was corrected by replacing the valve and gasket"

"leaking oil around crank pulley and valve cover gasket. expensive repair"

"replaced oil pressure switch"

"Multiple leaks that the dealership has fixed on numerous occasions just to have the leak continue"

"Oil pressure sending unit and oil pan gasket needed replacing. After leaks were fixed, still uses a lot of oil"

"The car is 17 years old. I expect minor leaks. It was fixed within 24 hours. (Our Subaru, by comparison, took 3 weeks to fix.)"

"The leaks were coming from several places, head gasket, oil pan, rear main. Been happening over several years. Had the engine resealed."

"The PCV valve stopped working properly which caused oil to be sucked back into the engine and burned off. The low oil pressure caused a solenoid to fail, which caused the engine valves not to fully open."

"Catalytic converter and connecting pipes needed to be replaced; it was rusted out"

"Was told at last checkup (160000) that a new catalytic converter was needed. Chose not to replace it at that time due to the expense"

"After market converter at least a little more acceptable in price even though it cost over $900 whereas Honda was $1500"

"During exhaust test catalytic converter is not functioning correctly and needs to be replaced"

"converter had to be replaced which is understandable but the O2 sensor had to be replaced twice. it was replaced 2 years ago, and last year had to be replaced again when the converter was replaced"

"Had to replace 2 years ago because the car failed emissions inspection. Now it's failed again and will need more work. Costing a lot to keep the car legal to drive"

"check engine light came on. Diagnostic check revealed the catalytic converter was failing"

"Check engine light stayed on, catalytic converter found to be failing. Replaced at cost of $1400."

"The catalytic converter heat shield is rusting away,"

"Had to replace"

"The SRS warning light stays on. The dealer says I have to bring it in. I haven't done it yet"

"Airbag warning light came on after our car was repaired for the Takata recall. Neither our mechanic nor the local dealer can seem to fix it. The dealer just wants to sell us a different car. This does nothing for our peace of mind."

"Recall"

"The paint on the roof and hood of the car had faded almost down to the metal"

"Even though I had it waxed on a regular basis it's still oxidized. Looks terrible but to expensive to have it repainted"

"Clear coat peeling"

"The paint on the hood has lost its topcoat and the paint beneath is faded. Since it was purchased used, I don't know if this was an original paint job, or perhaps a flawed repair"

"Honda's paint doesn't look like it holds up very well. The hood had spots and a lot of fading. A few years ago the drivers side rear door had to be painted . The Honda rep was actually at the Honda place and saw the door. He took a picture of it and"

"clear coat has come off the hood and the front side panels"

"Paint has faded severely on both the roof of hood of the vehicle"

"Paint on hood and roof has cracked and peeled. Requires painting but not worth it."

"red color weathered to white undercoat on roof and hood"

"rust perforation in body above rear wheel wells and beneath rear doors"

"Rust on the bottom of both front doors. only on the inside. can't see the rust on the outside"

"rust on side of car. near the back wheel well."

"The car is old... Not a defect in manufacturing"

"Wiper water resivor cracked leaking water"

"My running board was ruined during the lifts they had to do to see underneath the car (oil leaks). So now it is loose therefore rattle while idling & running over bumps of potholes. They refuse to fix or replace it"

"constant rattles from anything on the console area and if there is a drink in the drink holder"

"wind noise in cabin, and road noise also"

"The older the car gets the more the wind runs through the doors"

"It's an economy model of vehicle and the sound proofing is very cheap and there's very little of it. This is a similar problem with all Hondas; our 1998 Civic had very loud road noise as does our 2004 Odyssey"

"constant wind noises from all areas of the vehicle"

"On long highway drives, the noise makes it difficult to talk, listen to music. I realize part of this is because the car uses smaller tire size than large SUVs. But with proper sealing and insulation, this noise wouldn't be as bad."

"I've always had traffic noise with this car but now the windows rattle and it's even noisier. But heck, my car is 18 years old."

"Replaced driver door window harness. After work was completed, the security system audio on alert did not work. The audio on alert did work prior to installing replacement window harness"

"Remote no longer unlocking the doors, although the sender is working and the lights blink as always. Have to use key to manually lock/unlock the doors."

"Lock on Passenger side door will not accept key. Unable to open door from outside."

"The driver side mirror came loose and in order to repair it, entire mirror assembly had to be replaced at a cost of $400- and that was the price charged by all dealers I checked with"

"defective air bags controller --recalled"

"NEW MTR IN DRIVER'S SIDE WINDOW"

"The motor in the front driver window is sticking when putting window up"

"Replaced driver door window harness"

"Skips or doesn't play selections"

"CD Player will play but will not eject CDs and will not accept/load new CDs"

"Only letters are affected. It becomes hard to find a station when only part of the letters show."

"Factory stereo died. $1000.00 Honda service charge or $400.00 aftermarket switch out with all of the modern features. I went with the aftermarket Sony product that fit the car's cavity and gave me all of the modern feature on our Accord"

"Whenever the battery goes dead, or is disconnected, the radio cannot be used until a certain code is input. It took a professional to find the code and provide it to me. I made a note of the code for future use."

"Speakers "chatter" on occasion"

"The cruise control stopped working. My mechanic diagnosed problem to throttle body component made of plastic. The plastic piece broke off. A used TB part was installed. Works great again."

"Had to replace"

"intermitent starting function...not reliable. Have replaced alternator and battery and now i am in the process of replacing the starter and the positive battery cable"

"It gave out. Quit. Needed a new one"

"Starter has to be replaced"

"Starter began "dragging". Have had to replace"

"Issues with slow start for about a year, but couldn't identify the problem. Then it quit entirely."

"still have not been able to figure out the reason for the vibration when accelerating after shifting into 2nd gear. Might be the propeller shaft"

"At about 1700 rpm transmission shakes/shutters until rpm is increased or decreased"

"There is a joint in the wheel axles that corroded and broke causing the wheels to shake. I don't remember the exact name. My local mechanic replaced them. They still shake but less so"

"Universal joint on rear drive shaft broke. Had to replace the drive shaft as it could not be repaired. Please note this is the exact same problem I fad with a 2004 Honda CRV. No longer have this car."

"A/C Compressor quit working, electrical issue, probably due to internal protection due to overheating"

"Can't turn off AC have to pull relay during winter"

"Clutch slipping, had to be replaced at 145,000 miles"

"The clutch was replaced after more than 200,000 miles on the original clutch. There was still wear left on the old clutch disc"

"Clutch wear"

"Clutch was slipping."

"Accelerator was stuck due to floor mats, my bad for poor placement after vacuuming. Clutch and clutch cylinder were original. Accelerator was stuck at 7500 rpm (6500 is red line) and my wife couldn't get it out of gear (had brake on). Not Honda's fault but still cost $2500 for the clutch and $500 for the clutch cylinder."

"Had car towed in after "D" gear light started blinking. Required partial transmission replacement costing less than 400 dollars"

"Head gasket was leaking"

"A few gaskets have been replaced. Also catalytic convert"

"Both repairs were ridiculously expensive to fix, but $1200+ for the timing chain and naturally, I had to have that repaired or the car w/n run. Apparently, this is a common occurrence in CR-Vs. For what Honda charges for their vehicles, they need to get it right!!"

"Timing chain needed replacing."

"Went to start the car and it wouldn't. Tried to jump start. Didnt work. Had it towed to a Honda dealership who diagnosed the problem as the timing chain had stripped. With 235000 miles on it wasn't worth repairing as there was no guarantee that the engines hadn't been damaged as a result of the timing belt slipping. Donated the car and bought a 2012 crv"

"First gear grinds when I accelerate quickly. Have not had it looked at because I can't afford large repair costs"

"Engine overheating"