Honda CR-V Change Vehicle

“It was inspected and I was told it was fine, but then the A/C wasn't getting cool. Took it in and was then told that the compressor, condenser and fan were all "shot" and that it would cost over $2000 to fix it”

“Compressor failed at 30000 miles, replaced under warranty”

“Compressor turbine failed, disintegrated, had to replace compressor and other parts due to parts in the system”

“Failed - Had to be replaced which affected the rest of the system”

“Compressor blades randomly exploded internally requiring replacement of the entire system due to metal particles being injected into the system”

“Stopped cooling. Replaced entire AC unit”

“The air conditioner worked fine until this year when it stopped altogether. The repair was $1200”

“Compressor shot craps at around 60000 miles”

“Failed two times”

“Total failure”

“This appears to be a common problem. I have not had it repaired because it is out of warranty and Honda suggests replacing entire system for $2000”

“The AC system is leaking AGAIN. I have already replaced the AC compressor twice, not due to damage or accident”

“A/C compressor ceased up. Did not want to replace at the time (been cooler summers) had a cheaper bypass kit installed”

“Ac stopped working. Assuming it is the compressor”

“Have had to replace the compressor and A/C system multiple times b/c of defective parts / design. Honda had an issue nationally with this system but were unwilling to pay for repairs in total. There was a class action lawsuit about it. Disappointi”

“AC Compressor has been rebuilt twice, resulting in almost three thoUSnd dollars worth of repairs, very disappointed and inconvenienced, also lowering resale value of the vehicle. Behavior is referred to as 'black death' and appears to be very commo”

“The Climate Control Unit needs to be replaced. The A/C comes on every time the fan is turned on”

“Climate control panel failed. Initially heater fan kept turning on and off by itself regardless of control position then all climate controls stopped working. Climate control panel an fan motor resistor replaced”

“Blower control switch did not activate blower when turned on”

“Fan began starting and stopping intermittently. Replaced solenoid”

“Blower transistor failed”

“stopped working”

“Hole in the condenser”

“Part of the same issue with the A/C compressor”

“Air conditioner failure which burst the evaporator(?), which corrupted the system and requires a total replacement of the whole system including lines”

“Same issue”

“The heater in my CRV did not heat adequately from the time I purchased it. When under warrantee the dealer denied there was a problem. When out of warrantee the dealer said it would be a very expensive assessment and repair. I never fixed it”

“That was a problem from replacing the compressor”

“No longer able to set, therefore cannot use”

“Cruise control just stopped working. I took the car to the local Honda dealer to assess the situation. The cost to repair it was prohibitive (over $500), so I just didn't have it repaired. I can live without the cruise control, but I'm very dissa”

“Cruise control would disengage itself after being on for several hours. I would need to turn off the main cruise control switch, then turn it back on in order to engage cruise control again. However, once the self disengagement starts, the cruise wou”

“There is an ongoing electrical issue in the dashboard. Headlight on warning signal does not work. Check engine light goes on and off. My mechanic discovered a "bulletin " issued by Honda that mentioned an electronic monitoring sensor failure. He chan”

“we have had to replace lights component twice”

“Headlights have an interior "fog" like covering that allows me to drive with brights on at night, unknown to approaching cars. Cannot remove cover to polish or clean, whole lite apparently must be replaced”

“Burnt out headlight bulb 2014”

“Daytime running lights not working correctly. Must drive with headlights turned on to stop the warning buzz. No high beam lights. Is a common problem with the CRV and is about $500 to fix”

“Fogged. Alarm that lights are on when key removed not working”

“Some kind of switch had to be replaced. This switch controlled warning that lights were left on, dome light didn't come on, seat belt indicator”

“Interior lights fail to come on when driver door opens; all other doors work fine”

“Half of the lights went out Interior lights on dashboard to see gauges on left side of dashboard. service center said the bulb is very hard to get at it to replace bulb & would cost a lot in labor”

“The back window brake light leaks water”

“automatic locks for doors and interior lights don't work when doors are open”

“Driver door lock activator doesn't always work”

“Driver door does not open with keyless unit. dealer says control unit in drivers door needs to be replaced”

“Drivers door power lock stopped working”

“there is a short circuit(?) in the electric door locks, and it locks itself. the ceiling light doesn't come on when you open the driver door; the warning sound doesn't work when you leave the headlamps on and shut the car down”

“1.) Not keyless but no other entry. The keyed locks have been a large problem for some time. The locks jam up and do not work. Very expensive to ix. 2.) The only other problem is the automatic window openers which do not work, also very expensive”

“Remote entry locks on all doors failed over the past few years”

“The door locks fail to operate intermittently. Changed the battery to no avail. In addition the manual key ion the drivers door is very diificult to operate. My mechanic recommends replacing the sending unit and the door lock, Very expensive”

“Light indicating tire pressure low is on all the time. Car taken in for repairs, but it always comes back on and stays on no matter what action is taken. Tire pressure is fine, but light is on”

“Check engine light stays on. Technician said it wa oxygen sensor, i had them replaced. Light is still on,vehicle still runs OK”

“Washer fluid can't be used because the line broke about 5 years ago. Too costly to fix”

“Washer fluid pump has failed”

“right rear caliper does not retract always causing pads to wear prematurely”

“Break calipers rub on the shoes, and rust forms. I have to have the brake shoes air pressure cleaned to remove rust now and then. Calipers seem to be in constant "light" contact with shoes, and I understand this is how the brake system is designed”

“Calipers and their problems have been a consistent issue with this vehicle. This may be related to winter weather in PA. They froze, stuck, etc. I consider it the "Achilles Heel" of this car”

“Seems like I'm replacing these too often”

“A rear caliper broke requiring total rear brake replacement at a cost of $1400”

“Required replacement due to age related wear and tear”

“All brake rotors and pads were replaced and serviced in April 2014 with top of the line parts from NAPA, along with parking brake parts and service. Rear driver side brake pads and rotors needed to be replaced again in April 2014 due to seized callip”

“Seized”

“We have had to replace the right front caliper twice since we own the car and most recently the left front caliper”

“My car is almost 13 yrs old. Time for brake replacement”

“brakes worn, need replacement cost $500”

“Had numerous brake problems. Switched to dealer for maintenance and seems fine now”

“2nd time in three years”

“Parking brake seized after purchase, probably due to previous owner not using it”

“I have had to repair/replace the brakes on this model at least 6 times”

“This car has had premature brake wear from the day I bought it”

“Seems to need replacement too often”

“Rotors are too thin to be resurfaced”

“Rotors had to be replaced with the calipers because of caliper breakage”

“Brake rotors were making a thumping sound in the vibration, brake pads were only 45% worn”

“Stored by last owner and sold to me with brakes that vibrate at hyw speed. Dealer fixed it by turning the rotors and new pads. No charge to me”

“Constantly squeaks for 6 years”

“Brake pad wear down”