Toyota Corolla

"Both inside amd outside locks on all doors have broken and have had to be replaced"

"Inside door latch slips and does not open door readily"

"Inside door latches rather flimsy, broken off twice"

"Most of front passenger door latch has broken off, making it difficult to open this door from outside"

"Both outside latches on front seats broke off at different times. We couldn't use it until we got someone to repair it."

"The driver's door interior door handle broke, so to exit, one had to open the window and use the outside latch to open the door."

"The interior door latch for the driver's side has broken twice. The Toyota dealer has replaced it twice, both free of labor costs."

"The trunk latch stopped functioning, couldn't keep the trunk shut properly"

"Replaced three window crank motors on this vehicle"

"Electric window motor failed and had to replace it. Then that one failed after five years and had to replace it again"

"motors on all windows have failed. Have rplaced driver and right front motors"

"Automatic window openers seize or are barely workable"

"Windows need repeated attempts to close; also, interior moldings have disintegrated and/or become detached, so that the windows do not seal well, letting outside air and noise in"

"Master Cylinder (Brakes) failed without any warning but car is almost 17 years old, though serviced religiously. No accident resulted due to good luck and circumstances"

"The problem is with the brake booster to be replaced due to age"

"needed normal replacement for milage"

"no shame for the mileage incurred since the last brake job"

"Had to replace the brake pads and have the rotors resurfaced..due to normal brake pad wear and tear"

"The car had approx 130000 miles and the master cylinder booster had to be replaced."

"Parking brake stuck when parked for 2 weeks during the winter"

"I have replaced rotors and calipers on the front twice and drums in he back once in 75000 miles. This seems excessive for a small automobile since i and a conservative driver. The new brakes stop well at first but as i put miles on them they seem to become less effective. After several conversations with and having had my mechanic check them we are both stymeid."

"A couple of brake lines had severe corrosion and finally leaked. The others will go soon, too, so I'm looking to buy another car."

"brand new rotors installed after I purchased in 2012- and they needed it-, new ones already getting worn out"

"normal wear for the mileage incurred"

"Squeaking, thought to be in braking system"

"Darn car just keeps running will buy a new one for better safety features"

"1 motor mount was replaced"

"Twice we have had to replace fuel lines, once from the tank to a junction point and once from the junction to the engine. Also replaced the serpentine belt"

"Engine seals need replaced and some oil bypass of valve springs, but since I don't drive it much I have delayed repairs. I drive it spring and fall when I don't need the air conditioner"

"Oil leaking from several places, had the problem repaired on 3 occasions, including a new rear main seal (i think that's what it's called), leak free for a while, recently the problem has returned"

"It's 16 years old, so has some minor oil leaks. It's been a VERY reliable commuter car for 11 years!"

"It burns through oil a lot and I'm constantly having to onto fill it"

"I see the oil leak by the spot where I park it, the source is undetermined"

"gasket leaks in engine caused by deteriorated gaskets"

"Cheap gas and oil were used by previous owners, oil rings clogged with carbon so it used plenty of oil, valve seals may also be leaking due to this. Engine likely developed rod knocking due to rapid loss of oil from on highway use. This also resulted in partially clogged catalytic converter and a blown exhaust donut. An oil change exchanging 20% of new oil with marvel mystery oil has partially corrected the oil loss and the clogged cat, also restoring most lost power. Replaced exhaust donut at 2nd oil change since taking ownership, and engine is still steadily improving power wise and same for oil consumption. Using high mileage 20-50 w oil to help further slow oil loss, and to quieten down the rod knock, this is resulting in partial success, and will definitely extend the life of this neglected/abused engine. Since my experience with this Toyota Corolla, I would definitely consider getting another newer with less mileage one of these. The price was right on this one $60.00, and I was hopeful that the right additives could help this car out, and they did! But even with the right additives, the damage done to this engine, from neglect, and poor oil/gas choices will never be completely remedied without an engine rebuild or replacement. But I do think it just may last awhile if used at speeds no higher than 55mph for short distances under 100 miles and checking the oil at 50 mile intervals. Of great importance is to also change your oil at 3k intervals, not 5k intervals imo."

"Head gasket"

"Main interior overhead light has intermittent failure. Light in speedometer has burnt out"

"My car is a 1997. The electrical system has never worked properly"

"overhead light inside car does not operate automatically"

"Dome light circuit is draining battery when car is off."

"It was a check engine light that seemed to come on just prior on our bi-yearly emissions test. No excessive expensive repairs were needed ($110. -$130. dollars) but the inconvenience of this minor repair on more than one occasional was annoying"

"had the entire wiper motor replaced"

"washer switch failed"

"Air conditioner has lost refrigerant several times over the years and since I don't drive it much, I have not repaired it. It has been a good car because my wife and two kids have driven it and only problem has been stated above plus the carberator"

"Leaked in two spots. No a/c. Cost $450 to fix"

"The radiator leaks on an intermittent basis"

"NOTE- This is actually a 1996 model but you didn't give me that choice so I picked the closest year. A/C doesn't work - mechanic told seller that that it leaked and that the repair would cost more than the car was worth. The wife bought it from her best friend for $500. I get to drive it without A/C. I will check it out when I get the chance."

"1st this car is a 1997. Choice not offered. I had the clutch replaced 3 times by an independent garage and it failed 3 times in 4 yrs. I feel they were using inferior parts. Since the car is 20yrs old, I replaced it"

"Clutch was work out at 150,000 miles"

"unable to drive to work...had to depend on others for rides"

"The car won't stay in third gear. The cost of a transmission rebuild and fixing engine problems exceeds the value of the car. It will be scrapped."

"getting misfire reading, replaced plugs, still issue, replaced ignition coil, still have check engine light on, mechanic can't resolve"

"Check engine light comes on and stays on until reset. Mechanic can't determine the problem. Have replaced spark plugs & wires & run countless diagnostics. Can't fix the problem. Now we just drive with the warning light on, but don't take it for trips out of town."

"replaced the starter twice in the past 5 years"

"It wore out and needed replacing, normal wear and tear"

"Manifold leaking, exhaust making noise when stepping on gas. Due to rust, which mainly is based on street salting in winter. Rust also destroyed a sensor testing the exhaust mix"

"rattles in front end under car"