Toyota Highlander Change Vehicle

“It took two or three visits to the Toyota dealership to finally get the "check engine" light to go off”

“lon dash came on....Toyota wanter to chane to cannister for estimated $800. Went to an outside mechanic and he corrected to problem for $60. After running tests it was determined there was a leak in the system. Was a line left of the cannister”

“Warning lights come on. Dealer tracks it down to sensor, not actually the emission control device itself”

“evap canaster sensor failure $ 800.00”

“catalytic converter failed at 90,000 and again at 140,000”

“needed new catalytic converter”

“Fuel vapor canister filled up, causing blowback when filling”

“Dash indicates "Check Engine". A replacement gas cap fixed it a few years ago”

“We had to replace the catalytic converter. Dealer thought that there may have been premature failure because my wife did not drive the car very many miles especially not at turnpike speeds and this may have caused excessive heat”

“Fuel cap sometimes does not fit tight and allows engine light for emission system to come on and then must be reset... Purchased a new cap but still have this occasional problem”

“Replaced for the 4th time”

“Check engine light comes on sporadically. Mechanic says code number is a nuisance and he encounters it frequently and rarely finds an actual problem”

“sticking plunger would not allow sensor to open and close appropriately. Also had hose problems--most emission system hoses had deteriorated over 16 year life of vehicle and required replacing”

“defective”

“Two O2 sensors failed requiring replacement”

“The o2 sensor on the exhaust pipe went bad and caused a leak in the exhaust pipe. The sensor its self is over 400 dollars. Not cool! Of course the warranty that we have doesn't cover electrical components. It affects other systems and causes really bad gas mileage. Also of note is the radiator. It is leaking again, this will be our 5th new one that will be installed”

“Three sensors had to be replaced to pass California smog test”

“engine code for o2 sensor. Purchased sensor and replaced it myself”

“Had to replace O2 sensor module”

“engine light keeps coming on. problem diagnosed as sensor. expensive to fix”

“check engine light was on O2 sensor replaced”

“A Mass Airflow Sensor failed”

“The check engine light came on, and the dealership indicated the O2 sensor was the problem. This is the first time I've ever had a problem with a sensor in this vehicle”

“replaced oxygen sensor”

“Check engine light”

“Have replaced 2 of 3 sensors in 2 years. Check engine light now on - possible problem with 3rd sensor”

“Dashboard lights come on indicating trouble. Dealer investigates, resets sensors. Last time it was an expensive sensor in the gas tank”

“Random failure of various sensors”

“Had to have them replaced”

“Failed O2 sensor”

“My check engine kept lighting up. It was diagnosed and repaired. A couple months later the light came on again. Replaced more sensors. A couple months later the light came on. Work performed on the spark plugs and wires. About 3 months later the ligh”

“I've replaced the O2 sensor 3 times but the CEL keeps coming on saying the same O2 sensor very frustrating”

“B1/S1 02 sensor went bad”

“Needed replacement; cost seemed high. Used independent mechanic, whom I consider reliable”

“Sensors have been a problem since about 60K. Last one was the catalytic converter.It was expensive and most likely not needed, except to keep that engine light off”

“O2 sensor after being replaced less than 12 months ago by the dealer”

“Constant problem since 2007”

“Oxygen sensors failed and needed to be replaced to meet state requirement”

“both sensors failed in the space of 6 months”

“Had to replace at last 3 sensors”

“Both sensors went bad a required considerable time and money to diagnose and repair”

“sensor failure turned on check engine light and disabled the VSC system”

“The car fails to start on first try. After a few tries, it idles high enough to remain started. The check light code indicated that the air-fuel ratio sensors had failed; however, starting is still a problem”

“There are two O2 sensors. Sensors replaced three times. Engine light kept coming on until they were both changed at the same time”

“Replaced two O2 sensors. Very expensive ($820 for non-Toyota parts). One sensor failed 3 years ago. Was advised to keep driving with only a slight impact on gas mileage. When the second sensor went this year engine experienced stuttering and lack of”

“Broken hose”

“would not cool, freon was added, it worked OK”

“some times air conditioner doesnt turn on. have to repeatedly push on button to get it to work”

“Compressor is noisy and in the process of going out”

“Intermittent air conditioning”

“Heat dial does not work”

“The unit clicks when engine is running. I sounds like the servo motor in the ventilation system. Also when you adjust the temperature gauge, it will all of a sudden throw out hot air as if it is on high heat. It does this whether the A/C is on or jus”

“Climate control knob malfunctioning; will jump to cold when set to warm”

“Heat stopped working, blowing cold air. Problem is the ribbon wire from the temperature control knob to the electronic board behind the switch breaks. This is caused from the knob loosening breaking the wire. This is a manufacturing flault”

“the dial does not rotate properly so cool air one minute, and heat the next. I can jiggle knob and find climate I want. To replace dashboard unit is $998.Otherwise, love the car, Dependable”

“AC has not worked well. Entire system uses freon like crazy. Entire Climate control system now has to be replaced just after replacing compressor and another recharge of system”

“I would get hot air while the air conditioning was on due to a faulty temperature dial”

“Replaced HVAC control head and knob/face sticker”

“the knob to control the temperature was broken, unable to control the temperature”

“Temperature control knob only works part of the time. There is a faulty connection in it that is a known defect”

“Air conditioning was not working consistently -sometimes blew cold for a while then changed to warm air, then back to cold. Sometimes no cold at all, but considering the car had 174,338 miles, some issues are to be expected”

“System failed to cool. We were told it was the condencer or the compressor”

“Had to replace it due to leak”

“It developed a leak in the condenser core and needed to be replaced Your engine options for the 4 cly is incorrect. The 2.4 is the only 4 cylinder offered in the Highlander and Camry in 2003. Not the 2.3 that you offer as the option”

“Total failure on onset of Florida driving vacation in Sept. Not pleasant, but due to the age of the car acceptable. It cost 1,300 to fix all of the climate control at non-dealership mechanics”

“Cold air works better now”

“Blows heat all the time, can not turn it off”

“temperature control dial is broken. Would cost $800 plus to repair”

“Temperature setting switch does not function properly”

“Heat only works on one temperature. "hotter than hell". Same for air conditioning. "cold as ice"”

“Heat is sporadic when using the temperature control. Need to jiggle the control to make the heat work”

“The dial for regulating the heat does not make proper contact and the heat goes on and off. I have to fiddle with the dial to get it just right to get any heat”

“Electrical failure with heating/cooling system. Defaults to heat most of the time making it very uncomfortable in warm weather”

“The controls for the heating system failed and would have cost hundreds to repair. Dealer jury-rigged a repair, but it still does not work correctly. Heat on cooling”

“Heating and cooling became intermittent and ultimately quit heating totally”

“The heating system is not working and will cost close to $1000 to fix. But I do not consider the failure of the system as a fault in the vehicle but due to age”

“Vehicle has a slow leak in the refrigerant system. Usually responds to just topping it off with a canister of fluid”

“Had a unfindable refrigerant leak for several years which meant topping off refrigerant twice a year. When compressor needed to be changed, the new one blew open the small leak & new condenser was necessary”

“when my car stopped blowing cold air in 5/2014, the Toyota dealership said it was a small leak and added coolant with a dye. When there was no more cold air in Jan of 2015, I returned to Toyota and they said I needed a new compressor and condenser. A”

“A/C required a recharge”

“The condenser developed a leak”

“We've noticed what looks like antifreeze on the floor of our garage. No warning lights have come on. We were planning on having the issue addressed when we have our oil changed next”

“temp set did not function”

“Switch broken”

“noise”

“A wire attaching the circuit board for the heating, AC, and fan was defective. Quoted $1000 to repair. Discovered this was a frequent defect. Found cottage industry repairing/replacing this items”

“Stopped cooling”

“System that controls Air Conditioning went out. Cost $700 to fix. Then the compressor went bad”

“after 11 years first service of the ac system, over $1100 repair”

“The antilock brakes failed completely, that is no antilock brake action whatsoever, but the regular brakes worked perfectly. My biggest complaint was that it cost $2,500 to replace the antilock brake components on a 13 year old car”

“Was making a noise when braking. Needed cleaning near sensors. Was not an expensive repair”

“sensors have gone bad”

“Broken gear on front axle causing chatter and engaging ABS”

“I should have more miles on the brake systems”

“replaced both rear calipers along with rear rotors rear pads parking brake shoes and both parking brake cables”

“1 of my rear calipers froze. The dealership was unable to unfreeze (loosen) it”

“Rear calipers were stuck”

“Pin in rear right caliper broke in half”

“Toyota poorly designed the anti rattle clips to secure the front brake pads. The clip can get bent as well as the self adhesive not hold due to the heat, causing the clip to come out of position resulting in the brake pads rattling on bumpy roads”

“They would completely stick and would not release”

“we had to replace the complete brakes after 70000”

“needed to be adjusted”

“Seems that I'm always having to machine or replace the rotors”

“wore out”

“Our car's steering wheel shakes above 65MPH. Our garage said this was the rotors. They took care of the rotors, as well as a complete brake job. $3,300 worth of work. The car still shakes”

“vibration occurred when braking at high speeds, front rotors had to be turned”

“Think there was a crack or something loose”

“Tend to get rusty and reduce braking performance”

“taken care of with the brake issue”

“Pre mature brake system failure without warning”

“Worn brake pads and warped rotor”

“just normal repair”

“brake pad wear, normal”

“Brakes had become seized and it was causing vibration and decreased mileage”

“Front brake pad replacement”

“I've only replaced my brake pad's and one rotor in the last 12yrs....You won't hear me complain I think thats fantastic”

“I had to replace brake pads and rotors”

“Routine”