Toyota Highlander Change Vehicle

“Paint on the front of the car in the grill area has faded and appears to be very thin, also on area on the valence has peeled”

“Grille paint fading”

“Paint peeling, cracking around side mirrors”

“Clear coat peeling off on horizontal surfaces exposed to hot Arizona sun”

“paint on side mirrors chips and flakes off”

“This is a pre-owned, Toyota certified car. The paint all around the passenger-side mirror has chipped off. Toyota must have replaced the mirror and did not use primer. The car is Olive Green and the passenger side mirror base body attachment area is chipped and mostly white”

“at approximately 90k miles my Highlander started losing large areas of its maroon paint to expose a white primer. It looks like they painted a dirty car leaving a maroon color with large white spotted areas. If the primer would have been darker”

“Some areas where the paint has some marks like it faded in a specific spot, not over a larger area”

“chips in paint and dull finish”

“On one of the side view mirrors, the paint chipped off”

“paint peeling in chunks around drivers side door mirror”

“Paint on exterior door mirrors has peeled off”

“front of car has several chips from stones, presumably, but I've never had another car chip this easily and we wax several times a year”

“paint on front hood starting to crack and come off, but with 10 yr old car that is not in a garage, what can you expect”

“paint peeled of both mirror housings. Cost of repair approximately $350”

“paint started peeling off the mirrors”

“More than 30% of the paint on the exterior mirror housings has peeled off”

“Paint is cracking on the hood of the car. Dealer says it is a problem bug not covered under any recall”

“Paint fading, cracking. Typical for non-garaged vehicle in FL sun”

“tailgate started to break out in rust”

“paint chipping off. Noticable only close up”

“Some rust on front of rear right wheel well”

“door gasket has come out of track”

“Even when the car was new, the rubber gasket inside the driver's side door kept coming loose and the door wouldn't close properly without trying to push it down. Dealer repaired it by gluing it down. That didn't last. Then they replaced it twice. I j”

“Radiator failure, probably normal for age of car”

“steering and exhaust system”

“while I LOVE my highlanders, the road noise on this 4 cylinder 2005 is TERRIBLE. Very noisy, always has been”

“When driving, car had pulsating noise and didn't handle well. Needed all new struts - all were "dead." Expensive and took two days. Unrelated, the activators are dead in both front doors. Will cost $500 per door to fix. Ridiculous”

“no one can figure out what makes a funny noise when we turn the corner!”

“Something in the rear of the car, rattles”

“Have noise of something rubbing or possibly a wheel bearing that is evident when the vehicle is moving above 40 mph”

“Loud scraunching noise in back...turned out the spare tire holder was loose. Dealer fixed it”

“Dash is loose, there by rattling”

“There is a very annoying rattle when going over rough roads. The car has been to a private mechanic and the dealer and the problem has not been diagnosed or repaired”

“Very drafty. Poor fitting components”

“Do not know where the wind and road noise is coming from”

“The car is now 10 years old; our guess is that seals are dry (Colorado). Not much other recently in routine repair; in the shop right now for a "checkup" and other than a belt adjustment, all is well. Car does not "auto-adjust" and dealer maintenan”

“Slight increase in wind noise apparent as the car has aged. Unable to identify exact source of noise”

“can't drive with one window down due to excessive vibrating noise”

“Right sided wind noise at speed”

“Wind and road noise. Seems to have little or no undercoating”

“Drain was clogged around sealing on moon roof”

“Antenna seal broke and water was leaking into interior of the car...all carpets had to be ripped out and replaced”

“The keyless remote no longer locks or unlocks the car on the first try, must be pressed several times. And the passenger side door lock likewise cannot be locked or unlocked on the first try using the power door lock control within the car. Have not had a chance to have the dealer look at it yet, since I am still able to lock/unlock the car manually”

“Automatic door lock failed on one door costing $1,000 to replace”

“There is a problem with the passenger side electric window and door locks. This problem does not allow me to put down this window and it renders the keyless entry unusable”

“Automatic keyless door lock failed on one of the four doors”

“Remote entry/lock quit working on driver's door”

“The driver's side door lock does not work with remote entry. It has to be unlocked with the key to get in & I have to manually flip the inside switch to lock or unlock from the inside. The other 3 doors & hatch still work with the remote. A 2nd prob”

“Driver side door actuator motor has become weak and will not unlock driver door. Works using key cylinder though”

“The warning light for low tire pressure is constantly on”

“Rear windows do not work, keep coming out of the tracks. Had repaired three times. Heater /air conditioner works off & on. Checking on line there is a wire in the dash that needs to be resoldered. $600 to $1,000 to repair”

“Warning light is stuck "on". But the tires are properly inflated. Told it was probably a sensor problem. No one certified to fix it in my small town”

“There is a problem with the a sensor. This causes numerous warning lights to remain on at all times while driving”

“Engine & VSC lights stays on. Dealership has tried 4 times but failed to cure problem”

“Clock on occasion will change times”

“Tire pressure gauge continually lit”

“I have not found replacement parts...I assume that once I do, they will be fine. The lenses have broken”

“rear passenger tail light will not remain tight in socket”

“blown bulb on center console. hard to get to and replace”

“The stock factory stereo lights are no longer clear. At night, you can't see the channels”

“Driver door lock actuator no longer works so now must open and lock door manually”

“motor on automatic windows failed leaving a large expense for a new motor”

“Driver side door lock actuator went bad while being serviced by a dealer”

“REAR WINDOWS ELECTRIC DO NOT COME UP FROM DRIVERS POSITION”

“Can't power up read passanger side window from driver side!”

“Rear windows tend to fall off their tracks -- with the result that once a window has been opened, it can't be closed. This problem was repaired once (after great effort by the dealership) but has recently returned”

“Rear power window on passenger side lowered by itself with no-one in the vehicle. Used the control to raise the window and removed the fuse. Did not want to spend money on troubleshooting the problem”

“3 of the 4 doors have problems with windows going up and down. Usually, they go down a little slow and then they may not go back up all the way. They do this intermittently”

“rear left window motor and regulator were replaced”

“Rear windows come off tracks and wont go up or down”

“When moving from 'roof open' to 'vent position', the control does not stop at 'shut'. Have to watch the roof position to make sure it is closed. Decided not to spend money getting this fixed”

“The sunroof would not close after opening. There is a rubber track band that broke & got stuck & would not close. Had to pull out the broken track band & manually close the sunroof”

“air lifts failed has to order new ones over $100 each”

“Upon deceleration and at about 40-45 mph, the transmission will shift relatively hard, perhaps 2 or 3 times in quick sequence, acting as though it can't make up its mind which gear it wants! But then, it always settles into the best choice and, other than being a little jerky, continues on just fine”

“Please refer to previous description under "gear selection and linkage."”

“I have complained to Toyota about rough low speed shifting, since the month I got the car. It still does it. They tell me they can't recreate it. I just live with it but it is annoying. It's like the car can't figure if it should shift or not, so it bucks if under 30mph, occasionally”

“Especially when cold, shifts will hesitate. Did a transmission flush and seems to have improved”

“leaked all transmission fluid and had to replace all the hoses. just avoided having to replace the entire transmission”

“Transmission fluid on the bottom of the case noticed by dealer about two years ago. No drips but may require new gasket/seal eventually”

“Dealership had to replace seals and springs in the transmission. $1500.00 repair. Mechanic said it was a common problem with that year”

“At this point, the leak is very minor ... you can see on the transmission pan that there is a leak. It's a very expensive repair, but we were told just to wait until the problem got worse before investing in the expense”

“Drive shaft making noise and advised to replace for safety reasons”

“replaced driveshaft”

“Replaced rear axle and rear hub assembly”

“A wire connection on the temperature control module breaks. This causes the temperature to randomly go from maximum cold to maximum hot. This is a design defect that costs about $1000 to fix”

“vibration gone after the "propeller shaft" was replaced”

“It was leaking slightly when I purchased it. at 112,000 miles....during a trip while hauling a single axle open trailer with a ultra classic Harley motorcycle, the seal let go, the fluid blew out, and the transfer case failed”

“after the engine was fixed, i have had some other issues with engine leaking. I had to replace some other parts that i am not sure what they are.,”

“My oil pan failed at the drain plug, I had to replace the whole system to the tune of $400”

“oil pan seeping oil”

“There is a small oil leak left when the car is parked. It is about the size of a dime. Not a big deal, just annoying”

“Oil pan seal leak costing about $500 to repair”

“I get a constant VSC & Check Engine light on my dash. I was yold that I would have to replace my O2 sensors which is about the same amount the car is worth”

“Engin check light - One of the oxygen sensors needed to be replaced”

“Got an engine warning light and the mechanic put it on the computer and was told the problem. Alternator was not generating enough to keep the battery charged”

“Had to replace it - very expensive”

“Had to replace the O2 sensors and the catalytic converter”

“Last summer the stereo head unit began intermittently popping and loud static whenever turned on no matter radio/CD/tape playing”

“Preset stations will not maintain or will lose its setting, Volume control goes up or down regardless of manual rotation of knob”

“The wiring harness for the AM has problems resulting in very, very poor AM reception. Repair is over $1000”

“sporadically stops working. Dealer stats only option is to replace”

“Soft bolts- supposedly a common problem with 4 cylinder toyotas”

“The oil was leaking slowly around the engine block so I had to replace the head gasket”

“timing belt needed to be replaced based on mileage”

“I had the timing belt and water pump replaced at the advice of my service agent at my Toyota dealer. It was 10 years old and had never been replaced”

“One ignition coil failed and had to be replaced”

“Over a course of one week Twice engine would not start for a few minutes and then starter did completely”

“Started with Major Re-build..could not get satisfactory repair results resulting in TOTAL replacement of Trans & associated control computers. Multiple return to shop over 1.5 months period before satisfaction. Shop covered all repairs under origin”