Ford Focus Change Vehicle

"Failed, had to be replaced"

"Had to replace brake pads (front) and shoes (rear)"

"The car has a lot of miles on it. It's just normal wear on the vehicle. The car was given to us, so so far we have came out ahead."

"after 67000 miles and 10 years I had to replace the disc pads. Normal wear"

"Brakes on Ford more problems than other makes"

"I have to nearly push the brake pedal to the floor before the brakes start working"

"Had to change original Front Brake Pads & Rotors at 98000"

"Front disc brake rotors needed replacing"

"Replaced front pads and rotors at 42500 miles"

"Other than my ABS problem, described in the previous question, my routine brake job was exactly that, routine. New rotors, brake pads, etc. Repair was done and the brakes work fine."

"Front brakes needed to be replaced at around 148k miles. As far as I know they were the original factory brakes. Pretty sure the rear brakes need to be replaced too, at some point"

"I recently detected a clicking sound when I apply the brakes to slow to a stop"

"they rusted out"

"rotors rusted badly after 3 years"

"Rotor required replacing"

"Just when we go over bumps."

"It's more of a squealing when I apply the brakes. I've had them examined numerous times, and the problem always reoccurs. It seems to be worse when it rains"

"not working"

"required new compressor"

"I cannot select where air come out. The selector does not work. When windows fog up, cannot switch air to blow against windshield causing problems seeing"

"Blower failed. I replaced blower at reasonable cost. I did work myself"

"FAN MOTOR IS WEARING OUT, HAD IT SERVICED BUT WILL REPLACE WHEN TOTALLY DEAD"

"fan stopped blowing heat during cold weather."

"leaking refrigerant, need to disassemble dash to fix, therefore very costly for labor"

"Heater not very hot in winter. A/C not very cool in summer. Check engine light came on and thermostat replaced which fixed all problems"

"A/C doesn't work any more. Takes longer for the heat to become hot"

"The A/C didn't work when I purchased it, unbeknownst to me. When discovered, the dealer shared half the cost of repair with me. Refrigerant tends to last no longer than one year."

"many parts needed replacing and leak continued to occur"

"I have not had car checked out yet. I'm assuming (hoping) it's only low on refrigerant and nothing more serious. It doesn't cool down enough but does slightly cool"

"Had to replace compressor"

"wear and tear fair enough,expensive solution"

"Must refill refrigerant every summer , have not been able to locate the leak"

"Refrigerant leaks out in about 10-15 hours of driving time. Have not been able to find the leak."

"Exhaust manifold leak requires replace of a very inexpensive ($10) gasket by a very (prohibitively) expensive expenditure of labor ($1800). The car isn't worth nearly that much and had already cost $1800 in repairs in the prior twelve months."

"The flex pipe near the exhaust manifold is leaking. Very expensive as it isn't a separate component"

"Flex Pipe between Engine & Exhaust broke, Heat shields are falling off"

"holes tail pipe detached"

"Should be designed better, cheap parts expansive to replace"

"Heat shield came off 5 years ago and removed"

"Replaced at time of repair due to age"

"It is the original muffler and failed due to rust, formed a hole and became loud"

"Muffler needed replacement plus a resonator. Ford does not supply resonators or throttle cables any more for 2005, so after markets were supplied. They had to put in two resonators but the car still soundsl like a small truck! The car is safe now however."

"Never had a muffler last so long before"

"After more than 200,000 miles I finally had to replace the original muffler. Very pleased with it's life"

"When I say "pipe" I'm referring to the failed flex pipe"

"Broke at joint"

"I was pleased that Ford replaced my whole exhaust system(except the manifold) including shiny new pipes, two new resonators, and a good looking tail pipe and other connections.It took several days to keep assessing the situation, but the workmanship was safe and strong!"

"Leather covering on door panels (driver, passenger) and an area near rear window peeled up."

"Paint on hood has peeled away"

"The paint started peeling very badly in thick layers around the wheel wells and rocker panels and an estimate to do the repairs was twice the market value of the car"

"PAINT PEELING AT ALL WHEEL OPENINGS. CAR HAS BEN OILED SINCE IT'S PURCHASE WHEN IT WAS ONLY 1 YEAR OLD"

"Paint fading and peeling on hood"

"As previously stated this car in driven in the snow belt region of the country and being 10 years old it is bound to rust"

"Under the doors and the bottom of the doors rust easily, even with anti rust treatment"

"Car started rusting on the drivers side doors, rocker panels & Front fender, Rear Tail Gate"

"Significant body and underbody rust since Ohio DOT started using liquid ice deterrence systems"

"road salt that rusted my car and thousands of others"

"Lower body both sides completely rusted"

"Doors and Rocker Panels rotting off with big holes. I will have to junk it in the next two to three years."

"Structural member under rear trunk area totally rusted away. Some bubbling of the rocker panels . Left passenger door, bottom at rear nearly rusted through. Fasteners holding rear stabilizer bar rusted through."

"Rust has developed around the lower inside of 3 of the four doors. The alternator was just replaced. It does appear that most of the parts are original on this car. So considering that the car is 10 years old and being driven in the snow belt one ca"

"Alternator failed after 4 years. This was the second alternator. The first failed in 2015."

"The alternator stopped functioning and had to be replaced"

"Failed suddenly. Car won't run very far on the battery"

"Has been replaced twice in 50K miles. Has also been replaced in my other focus. No other problems with either focus. Very satisfied except for this alternator weakness. Difficult to replace as well"

"Did not charge the battery and had to be replaced. This is the second time in 6 years the alternator had to be replaced"

"alternator replacement in less than 9 months from last replacement"

"One night as I started to work (3rd shift about 11 pm) I had only gone about 3 miles of a 21 mile drive on a rural highway, when I noticed my dash lights and headlights were getting dimmer. I recognized an alternator issue probably so I turned around, called out from work,turned off all unnecessary battery drain I could, and headed for home. By the time I got home some of my lights weren’t working st all. I shut the car off, then tried to see if I could start it again. I don’t recall now if it did, but what did happen was all the warning lights on the dash just went berserk! Of course I shut it down immediately. I got a reference for a good garage, had it towed the next day. They confirmed it was the alternator, said it was a special “California” car and would require a special alternator. and everything on the internet said it was extremely difficult to install, would require a lift, in a hard to access location so I went ahead and had the garage install the alternator. In the meantime I did some research and found out that at the time this car was maufactured, Ford was attempting to curtail costs of manufacturing. One of the things they did was to use wiring throughout that had a cheaper grade of insulation on the wires that afte4btime would crack rather that stretch or bend especially in areas where the wiring needed to flex, like the connection from the body to the hatchback. One of the articles described just where to look to see if my car (a 3-door hatchback) had had the wiring replaced , covered with electrical or duct tape, or still had the original wires which were cracked from opening and closing, Apparently the insulation failure would expose bare wires to moisture or cause a short and this would effectively cause the alternator to fail no matter how old it was or how recently it was replaced. So I opened up the place identified as the most likely to cause a problem, and sure enough, the wiring under the protective cover at the top of the hatchback was wrapped in electrical tape bill and where it was coming loose, the wire was cracked and stiff. In addition, and I have no idea what, some major collection of wires at the back of the engine compartment were laying unprotected across the manifold and were basically being roasted. The mechanic wrapped them in some kind of protective shielding material and tied the bundle up so it would get hot or drag anymore. All this was what made the alternator fail. I was warned that it could happen again at any time whether two weeks or two years, but I’ve had no more problems. The Focus hatchback is a fun little car in many ways but I can’t help but feel it’s kind of delicate. It did make me really disappointed in American-made Fords though, as I had a 1989 Honda that just wouldn’t quit and it’s problems were all common do-it-yourself things. . It was still running st 40 years of age when I parked it, Northern winters had just about eaten the body up over time,"

"A mouse got under the hood and chewed up the battery cables."

"Coil failed cylinder 1 causing misfire - replaced"

"Started failed after more than 200,000 miles. Easily replaced it myself"

"When I adjust the seat and start to drive, sometimes the position of the seat slides out, causing me to slide backwards and re adjust the seat, somtimes multiple times."

"The Drivers Seat back has twisted"

"sunroof gets stuck on opening and closing, requiring multiple hits of button to get it past this spot. Auto shop suggested not using anymore as sunroofs major issue in many cars. Drain hoses replaced due to leaks into hatch/trunk area. Unfortunately this has not solved leak problem. Further exploration being done."

"WIRE HARNESS RUNNING FROM THE BODY TO THE TAILGATE HAS BROKEN WIRES"

"Difficult to get the back hatch to close and lock"

"Rear Hatch Shocks failed simultaneously. (Would not hold hatch open.) Replacement Shocks & Labour came to $198.00"

"Sender intemittenty indiccated full or empty regardless of fuel level. Triggered warning lights."

"Check engine light came on. The computer error code reader device indicated fuel sensor. The fuel pressure sensor was replaced and check engine light went out"

"fuel pressure sensor cost 205.00 Labor cost 200. I don't trust the dealer and don't bring my car there"

"six cd changer. gets cd error and is inoperable. well known problem with this factory radio/cd. can be repaired but i replaced with low end single cd that has better performance with usb input."

"unit states cd in player but it is not"

"Radio CD changer broke after 2 years when vehicle was new"

"Band broke while on vacation away from home, attempted repair by independent transmission shop that was successful, but repair shop broke the valve body, which was properly repaired by a transmission shop near our home"

"I was expecting the transmission to last longer than 75000 miles considering routine maintenance has always be done"

"Trans failed at 15000 miles"

"Had a small fluid leak. Replaced headgasket to correct"

"timing belt slipped and caused engine to fail"