Ford Focus Change Vehicle

"I had the brakes done about 1 week after they began to make noise"

"Replaced front rotors & pads Now need to replace rear shoes."

"Through inattention I let the rear brake shoes become worn out and they began to grind a little against the drums. There was no warning/whistling. Through negligence I kept driving with the grinding until the drums started to warp and I felt a pulsation in my brakes. Thankfully, my mechanic said that the drums would have needed replacing in any case, so my negligence did not cost me more money."

"During an oil change, I was told my brakes needed service soon because of wear. I brought it in a month or so later and had the work done. No complications since then."

"Replaced brakes"

"had 60000 miles on front pads"

"normal wear and tear"

"1. Routine Brake Repair/Maintenance 2. Transmission bands/clutches worn out. Torque Converter worn"

"Caused a very annoying squeek during normal driving that Ford mechanic finally corrected"

"Parking brake cable jammed requiring replacement of cable and brakes"

"STICKS ON WON'T RELEASE IF SET FOR A FEW DAYS"

"The brake system warning light was turning on and off while driving. The cause was a stretched emergency brake cable. The cable was adjusted and tightened. Dielectric grease was applied to its electrodes"

"Needed new brakes; not necessarily brake failure"

"Brake rotors were warped from the factory when new. This now 3rd set of rotors."

"ride side wear because of sticking caliper"

"replaced rotors& pads for winter"

"Needed to replace because pad wear indicators never notified of excessive wear until too late"

"Problem corrected with brakes repaired"

"Just a minor problem..brakes checked and are OK, but still squeaks when I apply the breaks lightly"

"The paint is peeling away all along the bottom"

"would require full paint job to make saleable"

"Clear finish is peeling off the hood"

"peeling on the front bumper"

"The paint has been slowly cracking and peeling for about 2-3 years now. Rust has started to settle in on the body in those spots. Maybe I am expecting too much for a 10 year old car, but Ford has been trumpeting the veracity of its finish and rust treatment for years now. But I probably shouldn't be sqwaking since I live in Central Ontario where we get fairly cold winters and are located in a significant snow belt"

"Paint peeling on rocker panels. Paint has stone chips on lower body strip in front of rear wheels. I think this causeby sand/stones thrown back by front tires"

"Got my last inspection sticker, after extensive body work. Vermont is tough on cars, but cars don't need to rust out if they are galvanized. I'm not going to get another Ford Focus unless its from the desert."

"Rust on the bottom of driver side front door and on front seat mounting rails"

"Rust at bottom of rear left door(interior). Rust around rear licence indent"

"Car has been sprayed annually with rust protection (Rustchek) since it was new and rust is now appearing on the exterior paint surface around the front and rear wheel wells"

"Radiator mount rusted as well as rear bumper mounts"

"clutch master cylinder leaked into passenger compartment-- had it replaced. 3 months later, the clutch pedal became barely functional, air in the system, needed bleeding. OK now"

"The mechanic told me when I took it in that there was an untreatable transmission problem that Ford doesn't know how to fix"‿loss of power like lugging on hill and a scary clunk noise, when I manually downshift it was fine"‿so far"

"Transmission has been rebuilt in the last 20000 miles, 2 additional solenoids have been replaced and it still shifts hard on occasion"

"Sometimes very hard to get into first gear"

"Every so often, especially in cold weather, the car fails to shift into any gear except 2nd. Once driven in 2nd for awhile, the other gears come back"

"Weird enough, the problem started three days after i had an oil change and was getting worse very quickly - had to take car in after two weeks. Took the car to another shop, where they topped the transmission fluid and break fluid, which was also almost on empty. Don't want to put blame on the shop where I was before - it's a 10 yr old car - but not coming back to that first shop, since my assumption always was that checking break fluid is a major checkpoint every time you are in the shop that i"

"Slips when starting cold, but then keeps going. I have a lifetime dealer warranty which will rebuild when it quits completely. This dealer used car warranty is why I bought the car."

"Auto transmission seems to shift late constantly. I have t either let off the gas momentarily or gun the engine to get the transmission to shift to the next higher gear. In addition the cruise control will slip out of gear sometimes causing the engine to race dangerously high until I turn the cruise control off"

"The private repair shop took 3 visits to fix the problem"

"Solenoids go out regularly"

"A possibe intermittent short, tripping the clutch and brake light fuse. Had to manually override to shift out of park, and rear brake lights were simultaneously non-functional. I tried replacing the fuse twice, both times the fuse was immediately tripped. This issue did not recur for the garage after they replaced rear bulbs and fuse"

"to replace a headlight bulb requires disassembling most of the driver's side front of the car and or being a contortionist with very small hands to reach the bulb. it's ridiculous !"

"Headlight out"

"The level of brightness is low"

"actually it was the warning sound when the lights were left on that did not sound"

"The dashboard light near the fuel gauge has burned out and is difficult to replace."

"driver's door lock actuator stopped responding to keyfob lock/unlock signals. Was still able to lock or unlock door by the key. electronic switch on the inside also didn't work."

"The locking mechanism on one door was inoperative; could not lock that door with either electronic or manual efforts. Effectively, could not secure the door until fixed. Dealership ordered wrong replacement (apparently a left and right side version"

"Check battery light is on, yet battery and charging system check-out OK"

"The check engine light stays on no matter what I do"

"got noise from under car. repair shop found loose heat shield and broken hanger"

"required replacement of two computer boards at cost of about $2000"

"faulty clock spring"

"faulty clock spring"

"Light has come on and it would cost about $700.00 to remove the bag and check for the deficiency."

"had to replace steering parts of air bag cicurit. 900.00 cost to me"

"exhuast pipes corroded, causing pipe separation and exhuast leak"

"small hole in a pipe sounds like muffler going but it's the pipe"

"repair shop found broken pipe hanger"

"Bracket on exhaust rusted out. Fortunately, welding fixed the problem without having to replace the pipe"

"I had to replace a door handle. Something broke and you could only open the door from the inside. All 4 door handles have always had to be "yanked open" - they handles require force to open from the outside. from the inside they are fine"

"The door handle would not open the driver side door"

"External door handle no longer opened door. A small cam inside the latch mechanism broke. Not an age related failure (no corrosion) just simply a weak design. Too expensive to fix on old car."

"Key would not work when in the ignition Drivers door could not be opened."

"Broken hood latch cable and then broken hood latch assembly"

"The door handle broke so I was unable to open the drivers side door. Very inconvenient to try and get into the car, and had to wait for a part to be ordered, but this seems to be a common occurance with the Focus"

"the electric locking mechanism on the driver's door has failed and it is too expensive to bother having it fixed"

"Someone hit the Focus."

"Normal wear and tear on the electronic button panel on the drivers side"

"due to the bad pump a couple of belts that were worn were replaced"

"The gas cap lock light kept coming on. Would not go off even though gas cap was on. I finally cleared a spiderweb out of the gas cap area"

"Engine mounts wore and needed replacement"

"They have yet to crack but the shock absorptive items installed with the mounts have dissolved away and can't seem to be replaced without the whole mount being replaced. this situation causes excess vibration and the likelihood the mounts will crack"

"The engine vibrates because of mount failure"

"The car's front end vibrated loudly when RPM dropped below 1,000. The cause was a worn front engine mount. It was replaced"

"Seal blew"

"Difficulty going into passing gear, then kept driving the Focus and finally, barely moved. Got it to transmission shop just in time before it stopped"

"Transmission & Torque Converter old & worn Over 100,000 miles!"

"The manual transmission started whining at 102000 miles, a rebuilt transmission was installed"

"Needed complete transmission rebuild at 105,000 miles"

"approx. every 3 years replaced the alternator"

"Driving on the freeway at top speed and the engine shut off! My daughter and I were stranded on the side of the road for 45 min. until AAA roadside assist. rescued us. We had to have the car towed to the dealership, charged $1000 for new alternator"

"battery warning light came on. Alterrnator tested - bad diode, new one installed"

"needed an new air flow valve"

"Throttle-body sticks and have to spray throttle-body cleaner through it about every 4 months or so. This has been going on for several years now. Ford seems rather laissez-faire about it"

"Pump failure"

"engine light falsely indicated thermostat problem"

"was leaking needed to be replaced"

"Car died on freeway,no warning light came on. Total loss of power, Turned out to be alternator,very expence to replace"

"The timing belt is predicated on a working balance wheel (no keyway) and an electronic sensor . Any disruption can cause catastrofic damage and danger as the vehicle will shut down"