Ford Focus Change Vehicle

“Fan controls are broken, thus cannot adjust speed nor direction of blow for windows, dash, or floor. Estimated repair cost $1600”

“Dash controller for fan blower and climate control knob was sticking/hard to move. Dealership had to replace entire compressor unit (even though that was working ok) to get the dash controls to work again. Very poorly engineered”

“This model is notorious for alternator failures and this car had it replaced before I bought it and I had to replace it again shortly after buying the car used. Apparently the alternator design faulty and is located too close to the engine block and”

“new heater fan switch”

“Dials failed”

“Windows completely fog up in the winter time and cannot be unfogged the the climate system”

“Refrigerant leaked and system was recharged with dye to locate the source of the leak. It's been 7 months and no source has been detected. the system works fine”

“AC not blowing cold air. Refrigerent low, only 2 lbs. Refilled with dye, so far okay”

“coolant was down to 50%”

“Recharged AC system at least twice. Blowing warm air again”

“peeling on the front bumper”

“The paint has been slowly cracking and peeling for about 2-3 years now. Rust has started to settle in on the body in those spots. Maybe I am expecting too much for a 10 year old car, but Ford has been trumpeting the veracity of its finish and rust treatment for years now. But I probably shouldn't be sqwaking since I live in Central Ontario where we get fairly cold winters and are located in a significant snow belt”

“Paint peeling on rocker panels. Paint has stone chips on lower body strip in front of rear wheels. I think this causeby sand/stones thrown back by front tires”

“Rust at bottom of rear left door(interior). Rust around rear licence indent”

“Car has been sprayed annually with rust protection (Rustchek) since it was new and rust is now appearing on the exterior paint surface around the front and rear wheel wells”

“Radiator mount rusted as well as rear bumper mounts”

“due to the bad pump a couple of belts that were worn were replaced”

“The gas cap lock light kept coming on. Would not go off even though gas cap was on. I finally cleared a spiderweb out of the gas cap area”

“Engine mounts wore and needed replacement”

“They have yet to crack but the shock absorptive items installed with the mounts have dissolved away and can't seem to be replaced without the whole mount being replaced. this situation causes excess vibration and the likelihood the mounts will crack”

“The engine vibrates because of mount failure”

“The car's front end vibrated loudly when RPM dropped below 1,000. The cause was a worn front engine mount. It was replaced”

“Sometimes very hard to get into first gear”

“Every so often, especially in cold weather, the car fails to shift into any gear except 2nd. Once driven in 2nd for awhile, the other gears come back”

“Weird enough, the problem started three days after i had an oil change and was getting worse very quickly - had to take car in after two weeks. Took the car to another shop, where they topped the transmission fluid and break fluid, which was also almost on empty. Don't want to put blame on the shop where I was before - it's a 10 yr old car - but not coming back to that first shop, since my assumption always was that checking break fluid is a major checkpoint every time you are in the shop that i”

“The private repair shop took 3 visits to fix the problem”

“Solenoids go out regularly”

“Auto transmission seems to shift late constantly. I have t either let off the gas momentarily or gun the engine to get the transmission to shift to the next higher gear. In addition the cruise control will slip out of gear sometimes causing the engine to race dangerously high until I turn the cruise control off”

“Broken hood latch cable and then broken hood latch assembly”

“The door handle broke so I was unable to open the drivers side door. Very inconvenient to try and get into the car, and had to wait for a part to be ordered, but this seems to be a common occurance with the Focus”

“the electric locking mechanism on the driver's door has failed and it is too expensive to bother having it fixed”

“Normal wear and tear on the electronic button panel on the drivers side”

“The locking mechanism on one door was inoperative; could not lock that door with either electronic or manual efforts. Effectively, could not secure the door until fixed. Dealership ordered wrong replacement (apparently a left and right side version”

“Check battery light is on, yet battery and charging system check-out OK”

“The check engine light stays on no matter what I do”

“actually it was the warning sound when the lights were left on that did not sound”

“Bracket on exhaust rusted out. Fortunately, welding fixed the problem without having to replace the pipe”

“Catalytic converter stopped functioning and was a costly repair at $1500. The mechanic said it was an internal failure of the part”

“battery warning light came on. Alterrnator tested - bad diode, new one installed”

“needed an new air flow valve”

“The manual transmission started whining at 102000 miles, a rebuilt transmission was installed”

“Needed complete transmission rebuild at 105,000 miles”

“Pump failure”

“engine light falsely indicated thermostat problem”