Ford Fusion Change Vehicle

"The power assist went out which prevented the regenerative brakes to not work either."

"No one could bleed the brakes."

"Had a bad sending unit, I have owned vehicle since I bought it new in 2009 and this was first issue with brake system other than normal pads and rotors, but again I only have 86,000 miles on it."

"For about two years the ABS regulator allowed the brake pedal to sink down when stopping or stopped. It was scarey because when driving I wondered if the car would safely stop before the intended spot. I would constantly pump the pedal at the same time hoping the pedal would engage sooner. I had this part replaced with a used unit at the Ford dealer for $750. A new unit was more than double. The service attendant would not acknowledge the existing problem, yet other Ford products have the same issues. Asked if the fluid was faulty, if the master cylinder was faulty or the calipers. It was my initiative that seemed to have stopped the brake issue. It still does it but much less now. I recently had all rotors, pads and calipers replaced. All were wore or broken. Big money again. I hope that Ford acknowledges the failure of the ABS unit and the terrible stopping abilities that come with it."

"I have 3 break related idiot lights on all of the time. I also have periodic chimes about check break system and check ABS SYSTEM. The dealer told me a title over a year ago that there was nothing wrong with my breakers, I needed to replace a computer for $950.00, and that would shut off all of the alarms. However,I have had to make several panic stops since then, and the ABS did not kick in, and the brakes did not lock up. It may be time to ditch the car, since repairs are liable to cost more than the car is worth."

"THE ANTI-LOCK BRAKE SYSTEM FAILED CAUSING THE REGULAR BRAKES TO MALFUNCTION. NEEDED TO USE HAND BRAKE TO STOP THE CAR AND HAVE IT TOWED TO DEALER FOR SERVICE - COST $1600.00"

"One caliper (left rear) began making a grinding noise; it required replacement. Mechanic said failure to make the fix in a timely fashion could have resulted in serious result"

"Had rear brakes and rotors replaced at 8000 miles, had to replace brakes, rotors and calipers all the way around at 16,000 miles"

"They failed causing the breaks to engage while driving. Had to replace rear rotors and left caliper"

"replaced one rear caliper"

"Rear caliper stuck"

"It seemed to wear out faster than I thought they should"

"To little"

"sezed up"

"R rear caliper froze when cold. Premature break wear"

"Calipers froze and caused damage to right rear rotor had to replace both at a cost of more than $200 for one rear brake!"

"Caliper line was pinched and led to bleeding of brake line."

"Rear caliper pistons freeze even when serviced annually. Have had two rear calipers replaced within 18 months. More than $1000 to replace calipers."

"Replaced"

"Car did not brake as well; was driveable but did not feel safe."

"The car started making the high pitch sound when your breaks start to go bad so I had it checked out and replaced the front breaks the backs were still good"

"Normal Break wear"

"Needed to replace brakes. They were worn out"

"replaced brake pads"

"Replaced rotors and all pads"

"Brake line connection leaking badly. Parts very expensive and my mechanic had to purchase an expensive proprietary wrench to do job Also, Constant issue with erratic automatic transmission changing almost since new"

"We needed to replace rotors and calipers"

"Brakes made grinding sound"

"Had to replace the rear brakes in fall 2014"

"Normal wear on a ten year old car with 44000 miles"

"just normal wear & tear"

"Didn't notice any issue. It was discovered during warranty maintenance."

"Over use of the brakes by one of my drivers. Had to teach them about following distances to reduse constant use of the brakes in traffic."

"parking brake seized and would not release"

"Parking break assembly failed. Couldn't move the handle to engage"

"Parking brake would not disengage. Had to bring it back to the dealer 3 times. One overnight"

"The parking brake cable was stuck in braked position so that the car would only move upon heavy acceleration -intermittent problem caused by brake cable hanging up in the chasis"

"Brakes froze while parked. Wore brake pads down to nothing while driving in this condition. Dealer was unable to identify or the problem. A few weeks later the problem recurred. Dealer was again unable to identify the problem. Recourse is to"

"Parking brake kept freezing in subzero weather here in NJ in January, and the parking brake cable had to be replaced (under extended warranty) at my Ford dealership"

"Parking brake release sometimes sticks"

"Parking brake cable needed replacement"

"parking brake froze in on position during this past winter snow season"

"Parking brake sensor failure that was making car think that it is engaged when it is not. It was leading to false warnings, turning off cruise control, etc"

"The parking break would get stuck in the engaged position when it was barely below freezing causing the vehicle to not be USble until the weather warmed up"

"Wiring problem with the parking break led to excessive rear brake wear. Led to a $500+ replacement for both"

"wouldn't release"

"The parking brake boots seal failed, allowing water into the parking brake cable. When temperature were below freezing, the cable would freeze and the parking brake would not release"

";It freezes in cold weather"

"Parking brake cable connection to rear wheel allows water to enter. In cold weather the water freezes and caused the brake to stick/drag."

"Parking brake set overnight in cold weather would lock up and not disengage the following morning. Driver's side rear wheel was completely locked in place."

"severehevere grinding noise when i stepped on the brakes,"

"right rear brake caliper froze and wore pad out in a few days"

"Rear brakes needed new calipers and rotors; front brakes were not worn much at all after 39,000 miles of mostly highway driving. Dealer insists this is normal; feels to me like the brakes are not balanced properly for safe stopping"

"brakes wear out about every 2 months"

"rear brake pads and rotor"

"Front brakes replaced after 12000 miles"

"Rear Brakes replaced less than a year ago are not almost to failure according to dealer"

"Broient after 18000 km"

"left rear brake locked up and ruined the rotor all parts had to be replace except the caliper .. a rather expensive repair while out of state !!"

"Rear brakes wore out much faster than they should have. Were replaced twice in the past 3 years"

"Ford dealership said I needed to replace brakes because they were rusting but, after another place replaced my brakes they said that Ford dealership was lying.... I say they often lie and cause me unnecessary expenses!"

"front brakes ok lot of trouble with all braking parts on back"

"Rear brakes wear out prematurely"

"Vehicle seems to have a higher than average rate of brake wear for the kilometers travelled. Shouldn't have to do a bi-yearly brake job with under 20,000 kms travelled using top grade parts (no white box stuff)"

"the rear brakes had to be replaces before the front brakes"

"Front brakes needed work. Don't know if it was premature. Not the first time"

"I've had 2 sets of brakes replaced within less 25,000 miles. Recently, I replaced calipers, rotors and pads...$1,000 bill. I have brakes cleaned and sliders lubricated every spring. Brakes are totally unacceptable."

"Tie rod ends and ball joints should last more than 100000 miles on a car that is driven on maintained highways and city streets."

"Front pads cracked"

"Experienced premature rear break wear several times during the life of this vehicle."

"had to replace rear brake shoes before the front ones"

"Occasional pulsation and vibration"

"Already commented on my concerns with the brake system."

"I could not stop the vehicle using the breaks. The dealer could not see the specific alert instructions on the screen until I took a photograph of the alert that could only Be visible on the screen before I turned off the car."

"Advantrak was absolute garbage went out all the time brakes were slipping"

"The rotors have become rusted around the edges. The rear rotors have been replaced but also have a tendency to show rust in damp weather"

"Replaced worn rotors and pads"

"Cost $500 to replace the rear rotors and brake pads"

"Premature problems with rotors resulting in an expensive repair. Repaired once and have not had problems since"

"Replaced rear rotors"

"rust and swollen lug nuts"

"Rotors failed inspection due to rust. Performed repairs myself, and rotors were incredibly rusty. Factory bolts had to be drilled out. Rotors had to hammered out due to rust gluing rotors on. Repairs took many hours longer than anticipated."

"premature wear"

"Brakes squeak when car is stopped in traffic or at signal and I am pressing brake pedal"

"The brakes have squeaked since the day I bought the car. The dealership has examined the brakes and have simply explained that this is normal for this model car. I have gotten this response from three dealerships"

"When brakes get damp or wet and dry out they stick (grab) and squeak. No permanent solution other than replacing pads is inefficient and costly."

"Normal wear. Bushing was worn and loose"

"Bushing failing, blame roads in michigan"

"Pooping sounds from front of vehicle."

"Electric power steering failure. Rack and pinion needs replaced on low mileage vehicle and abs advantrak went out frequently."

"Strut bushing on passenger side went out at 36000 miles"

"Had to spend $500 to replace failing rear shock absorbers.,"

"replaced front struts and rear shocks"

"Rougher ride noticed and lower control arm was found to be worn and needed to be replaced"

"Cracked strut replaced"

"Front woreout and replaced"

"Passenger side clip came off and drive shaft to right front wheel was burred and had to be replaced"

"front axel broke requiring new shocks and struts"

"broken spring on strut replaced both sides. I do drive in Michigan one of the worst states for poor roads."

"a broken spring/strut"

"the right front coil spring broke at about 70000 miles"

"Spring rusted out...typical for northeast winters"

"axle needed replacement"

"Drove home, parked car, walked into house. A few minutes later, passenger's side coil spring failed, dropping the car body onto the wheel. Drove a mile to a shop (at around 5mph); they replaced the front struts and the spring. Had the spring failed 30 minutes earlier, I possibly would have had an accident."

"both front springs broke near the top connection point. this was not a case of rust. both appeared to experience metal fatigue"

"I was told the computer mediated steering gear had failed which caused the power steering to fail"

"Had to replace the steering rack"

"a after warrany ran out"

"Rack and pinion failed and needed to be replaced"

"Sometimes the electrical steering disengages completely and makes it almost impossible to control the car. Fortunately, this has happened only at low speeds to date"

"Complete powere steering failure. Complete replacement of rack and pinion. Cost around $1800 to repair. Common known problem with fusions, yet not under recall"

"Power assist light kept coming on and off. Ford advised to replace rack as sending unit incorporated in same, and not serviceable"

"Had to replace rack for a known issue, at consumer cost"

"The power steering stopped working without warning-thankfully I was just leaving the driveway and not in traffic. The diagnosis was a faulty sensor but the only way to replace it was to replace the entire rack and pinion unit which is a $1500.00 part-rebuilt! Had the Fusion been a 2011 or 2012 model the repair would have been covered by a recall. In my opinion, this repair should have been covered by a recall since it's fairly common and a safety issue."

"Problem was intermittent. When started vehicle, error message appeared on dash. With turning vehicle off, the message reset and vehicle ran normally. The need to turn off and reset occurred more frequently. When finally brought in for service, problem was identified as rack and pinion problem and rack and pinion was replaced. Problem no longer occurs."

"The rod failed and the entire power steering failed. Looks to be the same thing recalled in other Fords, but not in the Fusion. Had to pay to replace completely. Full details submitted to NHTSA: I started my car when leaving work and received an error that the power steering failed. I followed the guidelines in the book and turned off the car for 30 seconds and restarted. On restart the error returned. I drove car to mechanic and had no power steering. After talking with mechanic attempted to leave and still no power steering. Another error turned on prior to leaving the parking lot with AdvanceTrac failure. Left car at mechanic. Error sounds similar to other Ford and Lincoln cars with power steering failure."

"electronic assisted power steering failure"

"Power steering assist failure. Replaced steering gear assembly"

"link rusted together was unable to move caused rack and pinion to wear and thus needed to replace parts there too"

"The suspension part was replaced under an extended warranty"

"wobbly steering"

"Replaced at deal recommendation, blame horrible roads in se michigan"

"I had to take the vehicle to a shop with a computer to bleed the brakes. The Ford dealer did not have a computer to bleed, charged me $124.00 for doing nothing to fix it. Finally a local shop purchased a computer to bleed brakes.It took them a week with the vehicle, to bleed the brakes. I was their first customer to work on my auto. I had brake problems, changed calipers, on 3 brakes, plus 3 rotors. The auto was a night mare........"

"was getting a clunking noise in the front end when turning the steering wheel. turned out to be right outside tie rod end. Mechanic replaced and no issues."

"Had to replace tires sooner than expected"

"Left front tire wears very quickly towards outermost edge. Research online indicates that a control arm needs replacing to fix the issue. Ford dealership says alignment is fine and refused to fix the issue. The outer edge of a brand new tire wears"

"Tires have been aligned 4 times in a year. Also lost power steering when driving . Dealer insists due to low tire pressure of 29 psi. No warning from message center"

"wheel bearing on the right rear went bad after 55000 miles, causing tire to wear out"

"Clicking sound that seemed to reflect the speed of rotation. Local mechanic said that there was no problem. Dealer discovered bearing problem. Had a lot of trouble pulling the bearing"

"Front bearings failed and had to be replaced. Cost was $800"

"right front wheel bearing failed. fixed and covered by warranty"

"Premature failure due to rear seal failure"

"Loud noises coming from the passenger side front wheel. Replaced the wheel bearing at a local shop."

"Overfill of gas tank caused an emission system problems"

"Check engine light came on. I had to replace the purge flow valve at a cost of $275"

"Engine warning light that required replacement part in the emission control system"

"Engine warning light kept coming on. problem was EGR"

"This is the recall on the fuel system that was supposed to be fixed by the dealer but wasn't."

"A leak developed within the system requiring replacement of two valve units corroded by salt sea air during a nine year period."

"Check Engine lite on. Fuel filler assy had to be replaced on two different failure scenarios."

"sensor issue for check engine condition, assemble had to be replaced twice"

"The microswitches in the fuel filler inlet flap get stuck from time to time and cause an EGR engine code."

"The car does not have the conventional fuel cap. Only a hinged lid that is suppose to seal the fuel system. The check engine light was on due to the lid not sealing properly. The lid and other parts were first cleaned and later needed to be replac"

"Fuel inlet has no cap, seals automatically. The check Engine Light came due to the fuel inlet leaking. Temporary fix three times by cleaning, eventually had Dealer replace"

"Fuel Door/cap lite comes on periodically"

"The capless fuel system leaks and allows dirt into the fuel line. Has been serviced 4 times in one year"

"Fuel cap was not closing properly due to faulty installation at the factory. Let in dust which accumulated on sensor relay which ultimately failed"

"warning light came on indicating fuel issue - was a "computer" issue not a physical/manual problem"

"This has been causing problems since I purchased the car. The "fuel neck" has been replaced 3 times (I believe one was a recall). Now, I am currently on the 4th repair -- the actual fuel cover assembly and fuel neck have broken and need to be replaced at a cost of over $400. In my opinion this is a huge flaw in the design of this car"

"I have the E-Z-fill fuel system, meaning it is capless. You just poke the filler hose into the neck after you open the fuel door. Very convenient until the little flap that provides the seal stops sealing, and then you get a check engine light. The code is evaporative emissions sensor, minor leak. I have replaced the fuel vapor canister, EVAP purge valve and EGR valve and the thing still throws a code due to the slight vacuum leak at the filler neck. I'm not paying to replace that, so I just drive with the light lit. This have been like this since 38,000 miles, I now have 174,000 miles. Car runs fine, just hoping the stupid light burns out."

"There was a recall on the evaporative emission fuel system, I took it to the dealer to service the recall but they never fixed the problem."

"the capless system makes the check engine light come on,showing a slight leak in the system"

"Seal leak on spout assembly"

"Throttle body failure"

"The electronic throttle body was defective.the car surged or limped without warning. Ford did not own the problem. I had to pay out of pocket for a new one. They said the condition had to be replicated in the garage and this was not possible"

"using regular gas, the rear two injectors caused the engine to miss when accelerating. $600.00 repair"

"The throttle body caused my car to stall while driving and was replaced. A recall was done a year later (four years after owning the car)"

"Throttle problem. Fixed for free"

"The throttle body sensor got dirty and couldn't work properly. The engine stopped receiving fuel as a result while I was driving. Was part of a recall so no cost to fix"

"Problem was an intermittent check engine light that was accompanied by engine misfire. It was one fuel injector that was diagnosed correctly by my Ford dealer and replaced under extended warranty."

"Had to replace the throttle body assembly"

"The engine would stop at highway speeds and the dash would ask you to pull over (via electric power). Restarting the car resolved the problem for various periods of time. Finally gas started leaking in the driveway and that was related to the fuel"

"O2 sensor fails on the stupid capless design. Common problems on all older Ford's with the worthless capless system / design. Give me a gas cap & eliminate the problem of a couple bucks !!"

"I have changes the emission control canister one at a price of $350.00. when the vehicle had 62000 miles. The same problem has occurred again at 111000 miles. The estimated cost to replace is $375.00 this time"

"O2 sensor problem. Not yet repaired"

"Sensor failed and check engine light came on. Replaced sensor at dealer"

"I had a K&N air filter. Ford said the oil from the filter malfunctioned the oxygen sensor and charged me $500 for a new one"

"Throttle position sensor failed. While cruising on highway, engine died"

"It is a cap less fuel fill and I have had problems for a couple of years before I got it fixed. Total repair was about $400"

"Fuel filler sensor is bad and check engine light stays on. Cost $475 to fix. I did not fix it"

"symptom: fuel cap open/leak signal. First fix, blow out dust from sensor line; didn't work. Next fix replace filler pipe, not covered by warranty; didn't work.Cost us $300 for the filler pipe. last fix replace purge valve; did work. Ok for the last 1"

"Problem brought on the service engine sone light. Ford first replaced the MAF sensor but the problem returned then they replaced the O2 sensor which cleared the problem"

"Sensor in the fuel filler cap failed. Had the orange sensor light on constantly. Found out it failed due to dust accumulation on the contacts, Was not properly installed at the factory,"

"Throttle Body had to be replaced"

"Went to airport, no issues driving there. Few days later, return home, and check engine light is on. a sensor detecting the gases from the fuel tank detected leak, requiring repair (also $$$)"

"So far of the four sensors on my vehicle, two have been replaced. Just waiting for the others to fail :)"

"bad sensor"

"Warning indicators also recall issues with emissions"

"check engine lite came on"