Ford Fusion Change Vehicle

“Had to spend $500 to replace failing rear shock absorbers.,”

“replaced front struts and rear shocks”

“Rougher ride noticed and lower control arm was found to be worn and needed to be replaced”

“Cracked strut replaced”

“Front woreout and replaced”

“Spring rusted out...typical for northeast winters”

“the right front coil spring broke at about 70000 miles”

“Complete powere steering failure. Complete replacement of rack and pinion. Cost around $1800 to repair. Common known problem with fusions, yet not under recall”

“Power assist light kept coming on and off. Ford advised to replace rack as sending unit incorporated in same, and not serviceable”

“Had to replace rack for a known issue, at consumer cost”

“I was told the computer mediated steering gear had failed which caused the power steering to fail”

“Had to replace the steering rack”

“a after warrany ran out”

“Rack and pinion failed and needed to be replaced”

“Sometimes the electrical steering disengages completely and makes it almost impossible to control the car. Fortunately, this has happened only at low speeds to date”

“Replaced right front”

“We have a torn boot on the right front ball joint”

“link rusted together was unable to move caused rack and pinion to wear and thus needed to replace parts there too”

“The suspension part was replaced under an extended warranty”

“Had to replace tires sooner than expected”

“Left front tire wears very quickly towards outermost edge. Research online indicates that a control arm needs replacing to fix the issue. Ford dealership says alignment is fine and refused to fix the issue. The outer edge of a brand new tire wears”

“Tires have been aligned 4 times in a year. Also lost power steering when driving . Dealer insists due to low tire pressure of 29 psi. No warning from message center”

“wheel bearing on the right rear went bad after 55000 miles, causing tire to wear out”

“Clicking sound that seemed to reflect the speed of rotation. Local mechanic said that there was no problem. Dealer discovered bearing problem. Had a lot of trouble pulling the bearing”

“Front bearings failed and had to be replaced. Cost was $800”

“right front wheel bearing failed. fixed and covered by warranty”

“Premature failure due to rear seal failure”

“The A/C compressor on this vehicle self destructed in 2014. The cost to replace was exhorbitant at about $2000. Evidenbtly, according to frequency of repair stats, this was more of a one off (but it was me). The Dealership's techs know me as the g”

“air conditioner has a leak so small that it is not measurable by detection device. Looses enough coolant that climate control is not cool in cabin. Requires refill”

“compressor would freeze up on long road trips, safety feature would shut down system. dealers (2) said nothing wrong, very annoying and uncomfortable without a/c driving on interstate highways, etc”

“Intermittant failure. Very hard to diagnose. Several visits. SDeveral attempts”

“computer failure caused air conditioning to fail”

“AC was cold but in AUTO mode would not run fan at high”

“The system is on it's 2nd failure- it won't go out of automatic and it turns on A/C and and tries to cool down (full blast) while also trying to keep the car warm. Dealer can not find problem- am taking car back this week”

“Passenger side heat..Driver cool”

“censor in dash went bad also wrench indicator came on”

“System seemed to no longer detect interior temperatures and would not provide heating/cooling”

“Blower has stopped working twice in 3 months. Ford garage cannot pinpoint the reason”

“The old one wore out”

“Approximately two years ago the blower motor relay burned up and we had to replace it. The part was about $80 and I was able to easily replace it myself”

“The motor failed during winter; therefore, the heating and defrost systems became useless”

“Circulation fan rattles”

“leak”

“Main electrical harness to battery failed which also caused the electrical harness to transmission to fail”

“$500+ repair to restore the A/C in my car. Not sure if a rock hit the right part causing the leak or if it was something else”

“wiring harness rubbed thru metal line”

“ewak was misdiagnosed at dealer several times. Independent shop correctly identified leaking manifold part. Total repair in the five hundred dollar range”

“Had to replace the A/C manifold line from the compressor”

“Driver Side heated seat stopped working. Likely broken wire in the seat based on symptoms”

“Replaced driver side seat heating element and replacement burnt out within one yr”

“Driver's side seat heater began getting way too hot on the right side of the seat --- hot enough to feel like it was burning. Once that started happening it would occasionally not turn on, or click off shortly after turning on”

“Had coolant and thermostat changed as part of normal maintenance and the dealer was not able to remove all the air in the coolant. This left the heater blowing cold air at idle, with the heat on full hot. Took dealer 3 weeks to fix, included calls”

“The directional valve inside heating duct failed”

“Warranty covered repair to throttle body after a recall for reprogramming the throttle body”

“The transmission shifts very roughly and sometimes it is slow to shift”

“I have had it at dealers before warranty expiry. they said nothing wrong. now off warranty and getting worse all the time. I think going to be major expense”

“Driving in high (6th) gear, car would suddenly downshift to a lower gear and stay there until stopping and turning engine off”

“The rebuilt transmission was a long term cost savings as its now out of warranty and going bad. a new transmission would have had a three year warranty”

“Transmission would jerk violently when shifting between 70 to 80 Kms/hr. This occurred intermittently, and then became frequent enough to produce an error code for the dealership”

“The 6F35 transmission manufactured in 2010 had a flaw in the half shafts in which the finish was not as smooth as it should be. This causes premature wear of the bushings where the half shafts exit the transmission, and fluid leakage results. The left half shaft was replaced free of charge per Ford bulletin TSB 10-21-11. The right half shaft is not covered, even though it most certainly was manufactured at the same factory at the same time. If not repaired, the transmission would ultimately”

“Transmission oil leak determined to be seepage through corrode oil cooling lines, requiring their replacement”

“Transmission leak. Because of rack under car/transmission there is no easy way to know this is happening. Fluid was empty by the time it was found during an oil change”

“The seal between transmission and short axle shaft was worn and leaking. Found out this was a design flaw where poor material was used, which hastened wear. Had this replaced with upgraded solution, and it has resolved the problem”

“Leak from left front output seal. Replaced left seal, bushing and shaft”

“Axle seal was leaking again. Was repaired on year ago”

“Noted leak under car, and frequent hesitation followed by grabbing when accelerating after a stop”

“Two lines for the transmission cooler corroded and needed immediate replacement. I have had the fluid replaced sooner than recommended also because I don't trust the longevity of the transmission”

“I noticed fluid leaks on my garage floor for 2 years or more, but when I took it to the Ford dealer they said they couldnt find any leaks. When the car was 4.5 years old, the transmission was clearly slipping (shifting hard when cold) so I took it in”

“leak associated with known Ford advisory”

“leak by gear selection arm into the transmission”

“left axle seal”

“$700 repair”

“Included a recall on the transmission, which had to be serviced after the initial recall was fixed. Also had a transmission leak that the dealer couldn't fix for 7 days”

“Needed to have the computer shifting recalibrated because 2nd gear was slipping. This was done under warranty by the dealer”

“factory recall, required new computer program and rebuild of subsequent transmission damage caused by original computer programming bug. This was 30000 miles ago. The fix worked fine”

“The car stopped unexpectedly during highway driving. Dealer needed to replace a control module and upgrade software of the computer controlling the transmission”

“Throttle control went out. Repaired with recall. Seem to be having problems again. Only 12000 miles or 1 year warranty on part”

“Car just stopped while driving”

“driving/fog lights difficult to replace”

“Drivers(left) rear blinker light has burned out twice in 4 months. Ford cannot pinpoint the reason why”

“2d bulb replacement for turn signal”

“Rear turn sigqnal lights burned out within 4 months of each other. Easy fix”

“Rear brake light went out. Replaced it within a couple of days”

“drivers side heated seat cushion shorted out and stopped working. Repair was expensive,”

“Driver side heated seat quit working”

“driver's seat heating failed, pad was replaced for $300+”

“I have had a problem twice with the seat (drivers side) having to be replaced”

“About the same time the blower motor relay burned up, the driver-side (and only the driver's side) heated seat function quit. There is a module under the seat that is suspect but both seats should be non-functional. No repairs made yet”

“Drivers seat started getting very hot - had to turn off. Finally it wouldn't come on at all. They replaced under extended warranty”

“Drivers seat heating element went bad at 33K miles”

“Seat heater broken. $1800 for repair. New seat”

“Sensor reports a fault at highway speeds then goes off when you slow down”

“All would be fine for about 15 minutes or 15Kilometers and then the auto message would go on to say low tire pressure ,but I would go and verifie the tire pressure and all tirers would be well inflated.Also had to change the Battery late 2014,way”

“it reads 'tire pressure low' when the tires are fine...had to replace a fault valve”

“lights came on and car does not drive. Dealer took one week to diagnose and had to consult with Ford engineers to resolve problems”

“blind spot warning malfunctioned”

“collision sensors”

“Wipers turn themselves on”

“Motor failure”

“Back up camera and beep signal”

“High Note of the two not working”

“The transmission had to be replaced. I opted to sell the car”

“The transmission was causing the car to clunk heavily when I put it into Drive from Park”

“transmission replaced under warranty. Parts broke internally. would not move car”

“Fusion would not go into reverse. Transmission fixed twice before”

“Original transmission burned itself out. Your wording on this subject is extremely poor!”

“Car died on the freeway. Transmission smoking. Had to be replaced”

“hesitate when try to accelerate”

“On acceleration to merge the engine began racing and speed slowed down and rpm went up very high. I pulled over and turned the car off. Started it again and drove home slowly. took it to the dealership where we bought it”

“Transmission failed while on vacation to another state. It slipped and could not place in another gear until you turned the engine off. Ford had to dismantel transmission twice. This transmission is a piece of crap. The Ford blogs are full of pro”

“The car started making a grating noise when changing speeds. The next result was that the gear box had to be rebuilt”

“Transmission failed at 39k miles. 'This is normal' Ford tells me. They have a TSB on the issue (#TSB-14-0056), but the Ford rep told me that the redesign parts because it is fun for them to do so, and that the fact that lots of transmissions are f”

“The warranty called for rebuilding of the transmission, final cost, not to me, was more than a new transmission. After warranty of rebuilt transmission expired, issues are happening again. New transmission warranty would have been three years not o”

“Transmission completely failed at 25000km. Ford rep wanted to rebuild it but I complained until he agreed to replace the transmission. There have been no problems with it since then”

“Shifted into park but car was still in drive. I had to put emergency brake on and turn off key in ignition. Called AAA and they towed into dealer”

“Car lost power in a dangerous situation crossing a major highway. Apparently this has happened to other Fords. No warranty covberage because the hybrid "technically" does not have this problem”

“had to replace Torque converter at 61,421 miles. Yes that is 1,421 miles beyond the warranty. Ford told me to pound sand”

“Trim on heater controls keep falling off”

“Little bit a cracking paint of the rear bumper. It is a replacement bumper though”

“paint has cracked below the doors at the sharp edges exposing the metal beneath”

“Paint chipped and separated above the windshield”

“Repaired under warranty”

“"chrome" finish over plastic trim pieces is flaking off, revealing bare grey plastic”

“the rear door panels at the joint of the exterior and interior panels started to rust even though the vehicle was rustproofed at the dealership”

“Rust on the back of the trunk lid which will cost a few hundred dollars to correct. Disappointed that Ford still has not corrected rust problems”

“rear license plate light rusted out, replaced”

“Rust around Ford sign on trunk”

“HAve had rust issues since car was 2 yrs old Ford helped fix under warranty. now 3 noticeable spots in different places”

“rust on truck lid. Dealer fixed at his expense”

“Two inside door handles broke. Ford would not cover even though this was a known problem with this car”

“drivers door inside door handle broke”

“Driver's inside door handle broke”

“inside door latch failed at driver's side, fragile plastic part”

“Drivers door inside handle broke. Could not open door from inside car”

“Inside drivers door handle broke”

“Heated driver seat needed to be replaced”

“part of plastic frame broke, had the sunroof sealed and motor disconnected, too expensive to repair”

“The sunroof open/closure mechanics got stuck in a "half-way" mode which made it impossible to open or close”

“Up and Down Movement Does Not Function”

“Driver door window will close and then go to half open and remain there”

“The battery required replacement after four years”

“battery cables corroded due to battery acid that no one caught when car was serviced at dealer”

“3 coils and injectors had to be replaced”

“Engine stalled at highway speeds due to engine computer failure, leaving us stranded in the middle of a major highway”

“Throttle body sensor”

“Replaced throttle body. Car was disabled by failure”

“the electronic accelerator failed”

“throttle body mechanism replaced”

“ford would not honor 100k hybrid parts warranty- chafed hybrid main wire harness”

“engine stopped twice while driving, restarted almost immediately. mechanic couldn't duplicate problem, but changed spark plugs and "cleaned" engine, assuming this would help. So far (a month) no repeat of the problem”

“front control arm”

“Underbody panel became loose and flapped in wind as car is driven over 45 MPH”

“Various squeaking that carmaxx can't find the cause of”

“Rattling noise from front passenger seat when going over minor bumps. Also a squeaking noise that seems to be from the air conditioning fan at certain fan speeds”

“This is a constant noise when the climate control fan is on. It sounds like something is stuck in one of the vents (but it's not). My friend had the same problem and Ford could not fix so she traded Fusion for Camry. Seriously”

“Same issue. Air leak /front of passenger side window”

“Sun roof doesn't open/close properly”

“Both front axle seals needed to be replaced. One or both was leaking”

“Occasional loud wind /vibration noise coming from the passenger window front. Noticeable at highway speeds”

“The throttle body was getting stuck causing the car to stop accelerating and stall. This item was covered under a recall, but was only found after I searched the internet”

“Failure of throttle body control”

“tHERE WAS A RECALL ON THE THROTTLE BODY. tHE DEALER UPDATED THE SOFTWARE AND SCREWED T UP. i FOUGHT WITH THE SERVICE MANAGER FOR THREE WEEKS UNTIL I PROVED TO HIM THAT THE UNIT WAS FAULTY. HE INSTALLED A NEW UNTI AND THE CAR RUNS FINE”

“Had to replace the throttle body actuator”

“Valve cover gasket, replace gasket and no more leaks”

“Lower oil pan seal began to leak. Cost $700.00 to fix what should be a minor issue, but design requires too many labor hours”

“The dealership identified an oil leak but could not locate the exact position. Dye was added and will be inspected again soon”

“very small amount. fixed at no cost to me. Fixed to my complete satisfaction”

“The engine starts with extremely low amperes, which results in loss of power steering and traction control upon multiple quick (within 20 minutes) engine starts. The engine eventually charges the battery sufficiently enough to run”

“Left axle seal in transmission leaking; replace seal and bushing; axle assembly $200,labor $400 at dealer”

“driveshaft failed, crack in case. Replaced under powertrain warranty”

“axel seal leaked a lot of oil”

“AWD unit total failure. Also both Wheel Bearings (front) total failure”

“will lose bluetooth connectivity sporadically”

“If I was using USB for my MP3 player, upon starting the car, the sync system may freeze and revert me to the FM radio. I will not be able to access sync/usb for several minutes”

“I stopped working 18 months ago”

“small oil leak discovered on january 2014. took car to moose jaw ford about 6 times between january and august and was never properly fixed. warranty ended in july 2014. as i left my home on october 25 2014 my engine blew up less than 100 feet from m”