Ford Ranger Change Vehicle

"For the last several years the fuel gauge reads empty when I fill the tank until I've used about a quarter tank. Then It reads full until I'm down to about a quarter tank. I'm told that it's the sender in the tank. To avoid the expense and since it's still partially working, I choose to just monitor the mileage and position of the gauge."

"fuel pump with integrated fuel filter failed and had to be replaced. Because of the location being inside the gas tank there were high labor costs"

"The truck was very difficult to start when it was cold."

"Fuel pump failed. Required tow to a repair facility"

"Pump quit after stopping to shop. I got in to leave and truck would not start. I had truck towed to dealer for repairs. It cost $1100 to repair, because fuel tank had to be dropped to get to fuel pump. I read it is easier to lift bed than drop tank,"

"Connector fell off pump while car in motion and fuel was sprayed"

"Truck would not restart after being driven; left us stranded a couple of times. Was first diagnosed as a problem with the security system. New fuel pump cost >$1000 installed"

"Fuel Pump failed preventing car from starting and requiring car to be towed to Ford Dealer. Repair required several man hours labor for dropping fuel tank to access in-tank pump and replacing pump. Total repair cost approx. $1000"

"Fuel pump failed while the vehicle was in motion. Replaced and problem was solved"

"Pump had a complete failure"

"Failure to start due to no fuel pressure. Replaced the fuel pump to resolve the issue"

"This sensor failed after 13 years of us. The cost to repair was less than $300"

"Inertial fuel pump shutoff switch (to shut off fuel after an accident) malfunctioned and shut off the fuel pump during ordinary driving"

"Truck sometimes runs very rich. We have had five mechanics try to diagnose this problem without success because it is intermittent. It may be the Engine Control Module. Check engine light does not come on until the catalytic converter istops worki"

"Rusted old system"

"The muffler and tailpipe needed replaced and I had to replace the intermediate pipe because it was an aftermarket intermediate pipe that was put on by a previous owner and wouldn't fit with the muffler I had purchased"

"Normal maintainable for the mileage"

"it was wore out and had to put new one on"

"Regular wear and tear due to age"

"needed to be replaced at 78000 miles"

"muffler and tailpipe rusted thru. I expect that it was just age"

"Replaced when replacing catalytic converters"

"light on the instrument panel indicated and exhaust problem---new muffler and tail pipe fixed it"

"normal wear out from lack of milage"

"Vehicle was part of a major airbag recall"

"Two airbag recalls for possible malfunction causing injury"

"Rusted and needed replacement"

"need to ge replaced at 78000 miles"

"one wheel locked up"

"slight wear in hubs caused anti lock system to squeel"

"A frozen caliper slide pin resulted in premature pad wear which in turn damaged the rotor"

"Had never done any break work in 40,000 miles with the truck. Started getting rubbing/squeaking.. Tire wear.. had all of the brakes redone along with two new tires."

"Replaced all of the brakes with the exception of the emergency brake. Vehicle had 140,000+ miles on it."

"routine"

"Not a big problem just came time to replace rear brake shoes and front brake pads due to wear down"

"I needed to have the brakes replaced. Normal wear and tear"

"Grabby, noisy disc brakes. Leaky rear axel seal, bad bearings. Burnt drums. Inoperative adjustors. Parking brake hung up. Bad shaking, front & rear"

"driver side parking brake cable seized"

"parking brake shoes wear out, apparently as a result of something that causes them to drag on the drum. expensive to then replace shoes, drums, etc. since i never actually use the parking brake, this is not a case of driving with it on"

"Premature brake pad wear was cause by a frozen caliper slide pin"

"Rust through of rear brake line. 15+ year old vehicle spent most of it's life in NH and ME, not a major surprise."

"Rust had built up in one of the rear brake drums"

"Occasional shuttering or bucking of transmission while driving around 50 mph or when starting out cold"

"The shift does not go smoothly into gear from a stand still or when moving. Light pressure is needed to let it put itself eventually into gear"

"Gear shift jumpy"

"had a bad seal. had it replaced"

"Transmission seal was leaking a little"

"Truck would die (like releasing clutch with foot on brake on a manual transmission) when stopped at a light after a 20 minute, 50 mph ride. Took it to a Ford dealer which hooked it up to their computer for diagnosis. Nothing detected. Took it to a local mechanic who looked at it and said it was something with transmission, a service that he didn't provide. Took it to a transmission place who did a bench test on the transmission. He also said that there was nothing detected. Took it to another mechanic who confirmed that nothing was detected, but recommended a complete tune up. since I had not ever had it tuned up, I went ahead with the tune up. Problem ceased and everything was great until the problem reoccurred. Took it back to Ford dealer who said a new mechanic who has 20 years experience with Ford trucks thinks it was a selinoid in the transmission. He replaced the selinoid costing me close to $1000 for replacing a $45 part. It runs without problem for past 6 months. The one thousand bucks, I guess, was worth it since I don't have to pay for a new or a new used truck . I found it interesting that the dealer nor the mechanics, when the truck was hooked up to the electronic diagnosis, could ID the problem. They checked the condition of the computer and found it functioning, but unable to detect the problem. Luckily, the dealer hired a guy that had experience with Ford Rangers and thought he knew the problem even if the computer didn't. If he was not there at the right time, I'd still be cussing at the darn thing. I did a lot of reading up on Ford Rangers on the internet and found many problems with transmissions, however none identified the selinoid. I wish I had read up on Rangers before I bought it used ten years ago. I probably would not have bought it. For the past twelve years, I have owned Hondas and have never had any experience similar to the one with the Ford Ranger."

"would not go into 4 wheel drive"

"Fuel gage failure."

"Clouded lenses--able to refinish. Unable to find LED bulbs that are bright and project functional high beams."

"After a hard rain, when I turn on my headlights, the horn and windshield washer/wiper comes on"

"One of the relays that control horn, lights, wipers and turn signals went bad. Turn on the lights and the wipers turned on. Blow horn and lights flashed"

"Engine warning light on - no reason"

"Wiper difficult to shut of after w/s washer is used"

"oil pan leak and rear main bearing seal leak"

"Leaking valve cover gaskets"

"Repaired differential"

"oil leak around the funnel device that is only used during a filter change"

"Remote controlled left/right side mirror controls failed"

"latch handles are cheaply made"

"spring on latch broke, wouldn't allow keepers to extend to secure tailgate"

"the handle for the tailgate latch has broken 3 times"

"SEAL LEAKING"

"slippage, the U joints were coming apart. The vehicle has a slipping transmission. I had the transmission rebuilt twice- once by Ford and once paid for by me. I thought the drive train problem was a transmission problem, but it wasn't"

"worn out universal joints"

"Gear slippage needed to rebuild transmission. Loud noise when releasing from four wheel drive has not been fixed"

"Transmission failed due to poorly designed sprag clutch. Rebuilt Transmission contains a sprag clutch with an improved design."

"Not sure of all details.. .had major engine work done, and still does not run well... engine light still on, still seems to slip, would not buy or recommend ford ranger (we have 2 for sons... major money pitt)"

"Heater quit responding to control. I presumed it was the heater door and bought an after-market kit to replace as the dealer solution (remove dash and replace heater box) is very expensive. Tested the actuator as the first step in the replacement process—it was dead. Replaced it and everything fine now.."

"No heat or defrost"

"Cost $900 to fix. As I recall, it took a new compressor"

"With almost 12 years on the plugs and wires I decided to replace them while coil was being replaced"

"I HAD A SPARK PLUG THAT WAS MISS-FIRING AND WAS FOUND THAT I NEEDED A NEW BLOCK. WATER HAD ENTERED THE BLOCK AND CRACKED IT, CAUSING NO 4 SPARK PLUG TO MISFIRE"

"timing belt looked good but squeeked"