Honda Accord

"Rear calipers failed during brake pad change. Had to replace both"

"my rear calipers seized and the hydraulic line leading to the calipers became disconnected, resulting in the loss of about one-third of my brake fluid"

"I found that three of the calipers were frozen and all of my stopping was being done by only one wheel. Noticed an immediate difference after replacing all four calipers, rotors and pads."

"failure of rear calipers to engage both sides of the rotor. uneven wear of rear brake pad on one side of the caliper."

"Had to replace passenger side caliper"

"Caliper froze causing premature brake pad wear and more Rolling resistance."

"rear caliper failed necessitating replacement"

"Right rear caliber seized"

"Rear calipers no longer worked (seized) so needed replacement"

"replace due to rusting"

"Left rear caliper had to be replaced in May 2015. The right rear was already replaced by previous owner"

"same as other"

"The left rear caliper tends to not retract the entire way, causing premature brake wear"

"Right rear caliper failed (seized up) replaced on my own. repair less than $100"

"Rear calipers required replacement as one set was jamed and over heated requiring replacement, The mechanic recommended replacement of both rear calipers as the 2nd set looked in poor condirion. Following the repair the the breaks have work correctl"

"premature wear-out due to sticking of rear inside brake pad"

"Rear calipers seize resulting in premature rotor and pad wear. 4 caliper replacements right, one on left. Best solution- new caliper (reconditioned have much shorter service life) service caliper and pad mechanisms after every winter - paint the cali"

"just normal break ware"

"rear brake pads and rotors replaced at 143000 miles - normal wear."

"replaced brake linings because of normal wear."

"I replaced the brake pads and rotor."

"Replaced brakes (pads and rotors), and flushed brake fluid at 154,000 miles."

"The starter gave out. Breaks wore down"

"mechanic informed me during an oil change the pads had 10% life left."

"We drive a lot of miles and the brakes just wear out!"

"The rear brakes needed to be completely replaces, which cost over $650! No squeaking to give warning, just a burning smell and then grinding sound."

"Pads needed to be replaced."

"Rear brakes needed to be replaced due to normal use."

"The brake shoes on all four wheels needed to be replaced, due to wear."

"Just had to pump air out of the brakes."

"Brakes replaced at 65,000 miles"

"Breaks have been a bit soft for quite a while. Need to replace brakes for normal wear"

"I drive a lot so have to replace front and rear brakes a lot"

"old age"

"Normal wear, normal repair"

"Some lessening of response time"

"Needed brake pads replaced"

"Needed new brake pads"

"Rear brakes were worn. Concern was cost. I had the brakes installed at a Goodyear facility"

"Other than caliper failure, brakes replaced at normal, reasonable intervals"

"The work done was due to normal brake wear"

"The front brake pads had to be replaced. Brakes were replaced during routine maintenance"

"normal wear no other problems"

"Pads chsnged"

"parking brake on left side seized"

"Parking brake cable guide insulation cracked allowing water into the guide assembly. This caused the parking brake to stay on after it was released"

"Brakes typically have to be serviced every 12-15,000 miles since we owned the vehicle. Rotors to be turned regularly because of pulsating, new pads, etc. Has been a constant problem"

"Most of the short life span of Honda brakes seems to be due to corrosion. Honda really needs to stop using Chinese made components"

"The brake wear has occurred on three occasions since I bought the car on the rear driver's side while only replacing all other brakes only once."

"Corrosion resulted in brake pads and rotors needing replacement. This has been a recurring issue with this Honda."

"The pads wear out because the rotors seem to fail prematurely due to rusting."

"Rear Brake pads wore out and had to be replaced"

"Rear brakes were replaced at 26000 miles and again at 55,000 miles. Front brakes replace at 61,000. Rear rotors and brake pads again at 74,000 miles. This seems excessive to me!"

"Brakes froze around rear wheels causing them to go prematurely & need replacement. Expensive"

"rotors and drums replaced twice in 10000 miles. Loud banging noise when backing car and hitting brakes. Panic stops in parking lot at 50mph car skidded out of control sideways almost 360"

"Sticking caliper caused premature brake wear"

"brakes had to be replaced much earlier then I anticipated. Mechanic said this is typical for this automobile"

"I felt vibration when braking. I brought the vehicle to a local garage. They checked it out and determined one of the rear brakes was so far worn that the calipers needed replacing in addition to the rotors."

"The rotors seem to fail prematurely by rusting quite a bit."

"At about 18000 miles the brake pedal would vibrate when coming to a high speed stop. On a steep down grade, the vibration and shaking became so severe, the steering wheel shook rather violentlyl. The dealer put new pads a rotors on the car. After about 20000 miles, the same problem returned. I took it to an independent brake repair shop. New pads were put on and rotors turned. After about 18000 miles, the vibration and shaking returned but not as bad. I think Honda cut back on costs on this car by reducing the pad sizes and the rotor quality. We only use the car for around town now."

"Brakes pulsated and worn unevenly on pass. side front"

"The car continues to vibrate when the brakes are applied. I have had the brakes and rotors replaced, resurfaced and adjusted. The problem goes away for a month or so, then returns again and again."

"pulsing while braking"

"Poor quality discs and pads installed by previous owner."

"All problems were corrected and there is a pulse vibration when braking from a higher rate of speed ."

"This problem goes along with the rotor problems."

"Brake pads needed replaced"

"Serious brake fade leading to loss of braking control on long downward grades"

"Rubbing"

"Rotors were worn and needed replacement"

"Brake pads wore out. Rotors were rusty because car is outside all of the time. Calipers were sticking that may have caused the pads to wear out"

"I needed an entire braking system on one tire it was clutching the tire and wore out. Over $600"

"The rotors need to be replaced often"

"Needed to be turned"

"Needed brake shoes. Rotors were also very worn"

"I had to replace the rear rotors recently. The brake pads were OK, but the rotors The brakes were no longer hitting the rotors for some reasons. This seems to have been the Achilles Heel on this model. I have had to replace the rear brake calipers or rotors more than once since buying the car."

"Typically have to have rotors turned every 12000-15000 miles and then replaced, due to warping. Have replaced rotors 5 times in 12 years."

"Caliper issue resulted In damage to the rotor, replaced it"

"Steering wheel began to shake, esp. when slowing down from 70 mph to stop. Rotors had gone bad"

"We have had the rotors replaced often over the years we have had the car."

"rusting and replacement due to grooves forming"

"Rotors were warped"

"front wheel rotors vibrated and shuttered when applying brakes this happened when driving downhill in particular.Had to have rotors reground and smoothed out.These where the origanal rotors"

"Rear rotors & brake pads replaced at 74,000 miles. This is in addition to rear brakes being done twice previously"

"I have had 3 Hondas in my lifetime,never,ever have I had the The rotors and brake pads gone so fast,my gmc brakes were just changed at 70000for the first time,i am on my second set of brakes on the Honda,changed rotors and pads at 28000,then pads ag"

"very expensive"

"Warping"

"regular brake replacement at 74000 miles"

"A normal wear problem. Since one of the calipers was sticking, this caused the brakes to wear prematurely. I then had to replace the rotor"

"This was normal wear"

"Warped at 20K miles and every 20K since purchase"

"Seemed to become pitted and worn quicker than expected. Not sure if dealership could have noticed this sooner or just all of a suddennoticed the problem"

"replace front brakes and rotors"

"Brakes were just wearing out. I'd only changed the rear brakes, and not the front, so it's to be expected"

"Made a noise when turning"

"brakes need resurfacing"

"Brakes sometime squeak when slowly coming to a stop."

"Been a problem since purchase. Brakes can be noisy and extremely sensitive/jerky"

"starting to wear out so in the interest of safety I had them replaced"

"In February of 2020 the right (passenger side) ball joint unit separated from the lower control arm causing the the suspension to collapse. It happened on a city street about 10 minutes after exiting an interstate highway."

"The issue was dealer replacement of driver's side upper control arm."

"Ball Joints cause steering wheel sakes and tires to wear out prematurley"

"Had to be replaced April 2015"

"repeated failure of upper and lower front ball joints. 3x on right and x2 on left. Wheel alignment issues are related to this problem. best solution seems to buy the Honda part - longer service interval"

"Compliance bushings failed"

"I had to replace the companion bushings twice on the front end"

"We took the Honda Accord to a Honda dealer recently and they said front and side engine mounts needed to be replaced because they were torn. I visually checked them and I did not see any physical damage to the engine mounts. They were other parts they wanted us to fix and the total costs to replaced all of them were almost $2,800! I'm getting a second opinion to make sure I really need to replace them"

"Compliance bushings failed on both sides."

"Found upper control arm bushing worn. dealer replaced and realigned wheels."

"Replaced"

"Front end bushings wore out. Bushings not sold separately. Control arms needed to be replaced too."

"Bushing had to be replaced"

"Drive ability improved after repairs"

"replaced both compliance bushings and then had to have a wheel alignment"

"Seal on power steering fluid unit leaks fluid"

"Power steering fluid levels leaking from hose"

"Power steering line corroded and leaked all the power steering fluid out"

"Need to add power steering fluid even after repair"

"Original power steering went out after 200k miles. Quite surprised it lasted that many miles"

"Tube from Power Steering reservoir to pump cracked & leaked"

"Had to add power steering fluid. That solved the problem"

"It started in December 2019. Haven't been able to fix it"

"There was no actual leak because the potential problem was the reason for recall, and it was quickly corrected. (Replacement of the power steering hose. I have not experienced any problems since."

"Power steering pump began leaking slowly. I repaired it myself with an after-market pump and have had no further problems."

"One time problem at 115,000 miles when the hose cracked and leaked. A simple repair but the car did have to be towed when the fluid ran out. It was just the age of the hose."

"It has been incredibly difficult to steer this vehicle. Its is a great car, but it has a huge turning radius and the power steering has always had a small leak"

"Air leaking into power steering intake made pump squeal loudly in very cold temps. Dealer replaced intake o-ring, did not cure problem. Dealer advised to wait for cold weather to pass rather than replace pump ($800). Noise disappeared in warmer weather."

"Power steering leak detected by mechanic. I was able to drive the car but the repair was costly, e.g. almost $800."

"power steering pump failed and the high pressure hose develop a leak."

"I noticed that it became to hard to turn the steering wheel. Also I noticed a noise coming from under the hood. In dealership they found it was a leak in the system"

"Hose connection leaked. Part of recall that was fixed free of charge"

"We fill the power steering but the wheel still whines when it is turning"

"hose leak---was covered by a recall notice"

"Leaks that were mentioned in a recall, but the dealership said it didn't cover my car. A tad suspicious, but I took it somewhere else to have it fixed"

"Vehicle howled due to low fluid,. Had to add special Honda fluid to bring it back up. Since then, no other evidence of a leak"

"Engine was making whistling sound while driving"

"Power steering pump does not work needs to be replaced. Not sure why this is happening but I would think these thinks last for sometime"

"Pump failed. Power steering degraded over time. Replaced the pump. Works fine now"

"Power steering pump was noisy when engine was cold"

"Power steering pump was making a lot of noise. Especially at a cold start-up"

"replace power steering pump"

"Power steering metal hose line was corroded through allowing the power steering fluid to completely drain from the system causing loss of power steering."

"the power steering pump makes a loud whining noise when the weather is cold until it warms up. It also does not provide as much steering assist as it should."

"Cold weather makes the power steering pump whine. Had it checked & there were no leaks, but I know it needs to be replaced."

"The pump failed and the replacement (Honda) failed"

"Started shortly after purchase in 2018. Becoming more tight as far as steering."

"Power steering pump started leaking. The steering pump was replaced."

"The power steering high-pressure hose ruptured and spilled fluid all over the engine compartment. I had to replace this hose and a new power steering pump."

"the power steering didn't provide steering assist had to replace power steering pump"

"Power steering began making horrible noises, so we took it to a local mechanic who replaced a pump. It is now repaired."

"Power steering system makes a lot of noise until engine is warm. Several recall repairs and dealer visits have not resolved the problem"

"Power steering pump started to leak"

"On cold days the power steering pump would make loud noises. Fluid was changed, mechanic said if it didn't work the pump would have to be replaced"

"For the third time we had to repair the pumps and hoses for power steering"

"recall covered a hose shortly thereafter the pump failed and I HAD TO REPLACE"

"Recall on power steering hoses"

"leaking hose tied up car for 2 days and resulted in a $400 bill"

"I replace rear shocks because one of them was leaking fluid"

"Worn out; need replacing"

"Noise in rear struts resulted in repairs for entire car of about $1200."

"One strut started leaking and the ride got rough. Struts need replacing probably just do to accululated mileage on the car. Domino effect caused problems with alignment and minor uneven tire wear."

"Rear struts leaking & replaced"

"damage from poorly paved reaods and potholes damaged rt front suspension and bearings"

"Replacement due to wear and tear"

"Gradual uncharacteristic failure of struts & ball joints"

"Had a broken axle (strut) which came about very suddenly. No advance warning"

"The struts were replaced within the past 10000 mi. I am not sure the struts were truly bad as all four failed at same time; I question integrity of garage that replaced them"

"There was something broken that held the strut. An $800 repair altogether"

"Original parts just wore out. Resolved completely"

"strange hum developed needed to replace entire steering unit around $1500 in parts and labor"

"I had a power steering leak originally and even though there was a recall on this issue because my VIN wasn't mentioned specifically I had to pay for it to be fixed. Then, within a couple of months the rack and pinion needed to be fixed and the mech"

"I used to be in the auto pars business. Rack and Pinions were around $200. This rack was "special" because a rebuilt rack was over $1000. Why did it fail so soon and why was it so expensive. I guess they must have been scarce because too many hav"

"Slow leaks. May change in 1 to 2 yrs"

"slow leak, but not yet fixed"

"Had bad gear replaced"

"Had to be replaced @ 120K miles"

"fast tire wear. 60000 Michelin tires replaced at 35000, 60000 and 95000. Last time back tires were flat bald"

"Due to previous issue"

"The wheel bearings in the right front wheel had to be replaced"

"Compressor just stopped working, due to normal wear"

"AC clutch went bad. However I could buy a complete AC compressor including the clutch for the same price as just the clutch. So that is what I did."

"AC compressor started making a noise and system was not blowing cool air. Compressor clutch is engaging, but compressor is not creating a pressure differential across the low and high pressure sides. Cause of compressor failure has not been determined yet, but is likely a refrigerant leak somewhere in the system."

"Partial failure to cool - drivers side does not cool, passenger side does."

"Driver side AC stopped working; first fix was refrigerant recharge; second was receiver/dryer."

"This vehicle is driven it a hot dry climate. It was not unreasonable for the AC to fail after nearly 13 years. Overall, this has been a very reliable vehicle."

"Well, it has 271000 miles on it and I got a lot of service out of it. So I feel I did get my money's worth."

"Was adding Freon due to non-cooling, when compressor froze up."

"The AC fan stopped blowing and was replaced."

"Not working - no cool air for past 3 months. Not yet repaired."

"needed freon boost"

"A/C failure last summer. Due to riding bike and taking public transit more, age and resale value of car decided not to fix."

"no cold air, this was the 2nd one in 18 monthes"

"AC stopped working and Honda replacement compressor was very expensive. Dealer installed after market unit that was less expensive, but still costly. New unit has worked fine."

"AC was not cooling. Honda was able to repair."

"failure of the AC system - repair cost was 2,000 to repair"

"It has been 5 years since I had to have the drier, and the same service done. Apparently, you need an overhaul every 5 years."

"A/C in the past 8 to 12 months hasn't worked well and in the past 3 months, pretty much doesn't work. Car is 9 years old. One of the heat systems in the seats doesn't work either, just happened within the past 3 months as well"

"Compressor failed and unable to cool car. Replaced compressor"

"Mix motor failef"

"Neede apart change to fix problem. do not know part name"

"just quit"

"Two fold problem: engine thermostat is stuck in the closed position, internal dual control vents do not adjust between driver and passenger vents."

"A/C intermittently blows hot and cold."

"Ventilation system began blowing hot air out of certain ducts despite settings for cooling the car."

"Climate control doesn't work, blowing hot air on one side and cold on the other, regardless of setting"

"Inconsistent heat/cold left and right"

"speed control resistor failed"

"A/C not cooling or blowing replaced A/C blower transistor. For someone like me it was very difficult to place the repair I had in the proper category. I had to call the dealer. Can you let us tell you what was repaired and you place it in the proper category?"

"The left center vent is not working and will not push cold air, the right side is working fine"

"A/C stopped working and too hot to drive in Arizona Summer"

"failed - required replacement"

"it just quit running on very hot day"

"several years ago the condenser had a leak and was replaced. Every since then no problems."

"The unit was clogged with little balls that clogged the whole system. Not sure where they originated."

"The condenser got plugged with small pieces of plastic"

"Condenser cracked. Very expensive repair requiring bumper removal"

"blower motor transistor failed - needed replacement"

"An oil cooler pipe support broke and the pipe rubbed a hole in the evaporator"

"The drier or condenser needed to be replaced after 5 years of continual service."

"Drives seat heater toggle switch indicator light doesn’t work causing problems on/off status."

"flapper system for directing air flow in vehicle stuck and required entire plenum unit to be replcced"

"Fan was not function properly. Seemed like control on heater system was not working properly"

"Temperature control did not adjust"

"Heater works sporadically"

"Had to replace compressor hose"

"The AC stopped cooling, so we replaced the compressor and condenser (they come in a kit). It was somewhat fixed but it still wasn't cooling consistently as it should. A different mechanic determined that the new compressor was faulty, so he replaced it. The AC still didn't cool consistently, and they weren't finding any leaks in the main part of the system. So then they took off the dash and found a leak there and fixed it. That seemed to do the trick. That leak may have been the problem all alo"

"There is a very small leak in the A/C system that requires a recharge every 4-5 years."

"Static system pressure was very low (~40psi). Location of leak has not yet been determined."

"Probably the first problem that I would even consider remotely serious with this car, and it took a decade for it to manifest itself. I had a leak in the cooling system and had to have the engine torn apart to find the leak."

"The hoses were replaced and the radiator, or something to do with the air conditioning system was replaced."

"There is an apparent small leak in the a/c system, can't be identified. system has been recharged,"

"$5 valve leaked, it cost $350 to replace the refrigerant"

"It was an old AC system. The AC fan stopped blowing, and the two valves leaked."

"Air conditioning was not providing normal amount of cooling which is critical in Tucson summer heat."

"Refrigerant leaks are an ongoing problem, yet to be completely fixed by dealer/private mechanic"

"Needed to recharge system twice"

"air condition stopped putting out cold air in fall of 2014. recharged it and all ok now"