Honda CR-V Change Vehicle

"Rear brakes drums and shoes replaced"

"Second set of rotors and pads since new. Not bad for almost 250000 km!"

"It was time to replace the breaks. They wore out."

"brake line failed and car lost brake fluid. The problem started at home with small amounts of leaking, but there was a major loss of the brake fluid while in the shop for checkup"

"regular failure over time"

"routine maintenance"

"Front driver side rotor broke, after routine brake replacement less than one year earlier. Took car to garage where work was done, and they replaced broken rotor and fixed problem free of charge, as rotor/brake job was under warranty"

"warped rotors causing pulsating when applying brakes"

"This issue was a result of normal wear and tear, not anything out of the ordinary I don't believe"

"After Market Rear brake Pads installed. Squeaking at stop. Brakes work fine just noisy"

"In rain, water drips from in front of glove compartment making carpet. This is our second Honda CR-V that does this"

"Water leaking on the front passenger floor"

"When there's a hard rain, my driver side floor fills with water and no mechanic seems to know the cause"

"This is generally a very noisy car--the radio must be turned up very loud just to hear a faint melody over the cacophony of noise inside this car"

"Catalytic converters disintegrating.......it’s old!"

"Loose heat shield creates high, whining sound."

"There is a noise in the steering column when you make a VERY sharp turn which wasn't there when we purchased the car"

"Passenger door window causes wind noise"

"clock stopped working at about 130000 miles"

"Horn has changed it's tone and sounds like it is going to go out"

"The keyless entry works about half the time and when it does work, most of the time one has to press the button several times in a row to get the keyless entry to work"

"The driver side passenger automatic door lock stopped working, and then the keyless entry did not work. A wire in the door had broken and needed to be replace/repaired"

"Door locks only work manually except driver door"

"I am disappointed that my warming signal for my headlights don't work I rely on it"

"Problem identified in the distributor area. Due to cost and not being a problem that impede the moving of the vehicle had not been repaired"

"stopped working. Seems to be connected with other electrical failures (like horn, cruise control, etc.) Still waiting to have electrical system fixed"

"My mechanic notice a small antifreeze leak coming from the head gasket. We caught it early and it caused no operational problems. I was disappointed that it happened at 159,000 miles. I was hoping to get a lot more miles before having a major engine problem."

"Head gasket replacement with the years and mileage are to be expected for even the best of cars,in my opinion."

"5 months ago my mechanic told me that the head gasket needed to be replaced. He showed me that oil was seeping from under the gasket"

"Blew the head gasket"

"This happened at approximately the same time as the distributor cap. Again i don't use this local car mechanic anymore"

"The timing belt did NOT fail - it was simply due for scheduled replacement by virtue of age."

"When unlocked, the driver's door lock does not engage entirely and if the door is closed or the wind blows the door shut, the door will lock by itself. The back passenger door, same side, doesn't lock completely and has to be manually locked"

"The problem is the door handles (interior) and the door locks (tailgate). The driver's door handle broke and the tailgate lock is jammed. But hey, it's a very old car! Otherwise, it's great!"

"Out of all the issues that the toll of time takes on a car, the most aggravating was early on the lock on the tailgate and the back washer blade rusted and corroded so much that they had to be replaced once. The second time didn’t make sense due to the cost"

"The front drivers side window does not open any longer. The front passenger side window can still open, but is very slow closing again, so I do not open it any longer."

"Cam seal replaced"

"Replaced oil pan gasket- that fixed the problem"

"gaskets beginning to wear out after 16 years of ownership. Not a failure, but repairs to cure minor leaks."

"Hose was compress by serviceman causing oil to leak out the dipstick pipe"

"started to run rough and check engine light came on. replaced plugs and adjusted valves and it runs fine"

"stopped starting"

"I do not drive this car anymore because I'm afraid it will break down on me. My mechanic said it wouldn't be worth it to replace the transmission so I will be selling the car"

"starting from a dead stop now and then the engine will slowly rev but the SUV will not accelerate, then you can feel it catch and accelerate like normal. thinking this is normal for a car this old with 240000 miles on her"

"We got a 2 year warrantee on the rebuilt transmission. Otherwise we would have sold the car. We'll keep it for another year and a half, probably"

"Total pump failure. Transaxle replaced with a low mileage used part, highly satisfied"

"The "U" joints are "Pinned" in, so that you have to buy a whole new "Propeller" / drive shaft from the dealer ($1,350). I later found a local shop that could replace just the "U" joints ($65)"

"Car was Making a noise and the drive shaft broke. I had to replace the motor mounts a few months later. I don't know if it was a result of or cause of drive shaft"

"Leak had to be repaired"