Honda CR-V

"Don't work in the 2 lasts weeks"

"Front Power outlet stopped working. We changed the outlet and then the fuse but neither solved the problem. Since this vehicle has a second outlet in the tailgate, we just ran a power outlet extension with a long cord from the tailgate and under the seats to the front cabin. Cost to repair by dealer is not worth it"

"Drivers power plug stoped working"

"The fuse shorts out on this so often I stopped using it"

"plug in back area does not work"

"The plug stopped working; I know from the internet what the problem is but didn't take time to fix it"

"Headllight on warning no longer words, driver side console for mirror adjustments and lock/unlock fuction no longer works"

"The fuse box failed and had to be replaced"

"received an airbag safety notice and recall"

"Stopped working"

"stop light bulbs seem to burn out on average once a year since about 2015"

"Interior climate control lights for nighttime go out every couple of years."

"Heat/AC/Defrost dials no longer light up., which makes nighttime selection very difficult. The dealer wants hundreds of dollars to fix"

"The gauges on my dashboard have been losing their power over time. They have darkened-and in some cases are now totally black. Included are my speedometer, gas gauge and cooling indicator. I am told this can be fixed but with a lot of labor involved (I have also hit large pot holes which causes my oil light to come on and stay on for a very long time)"

"All the gauges stopped working twice, then later came back on, resulting in a useless diagnostic visit and no fix"

"light in dash is not working . very expensive labor to fix"

"The instrument panel lights flicker at different times. Next week will be the third time I leave it at Honda to fix"

"dash lights burned out replace headlights year remote locks don't wrok-200 per lock to replace"

"As soon as we had the interior gauge lights fixed some of them went out again"

"it takes well over $100 to replace all the gauge lights"

"The lights have gone out on the fan and A/C gauges, and the dash lights are slowly going out from right to left. At night I cannot see the gas gauge or the speedometer. The tach is now starting to fade. A honda dealer quoted about $126 plus tax to"

"Lights in control knobs and instrument panel burned out"

"Outside temp gauge faulty"

"Headlights when replaced last 1-2 months."

"Lamps in headlight burn out frequently."

"Bulbs (lamps) don't last a year from the beginning Problem with engine is that car after I press the brake accelerates sometimes to 5000 RPM mostly 2000- 3000 RPM after I release brake car goes down to normal"

"Repeatedly burn out both sides. Last maybe 5,000 miles."

"Bulbs go out very often. At least twice a year."

"Canadian day time running lights failed to come on."

"I have had to replace headlights in this vehicle 3 to 5 times in the last year. The lights have alternately blown out once a month."

"When traveling from warm/hot Texas to very cold Colorado mountains - new bulbs constantly need to be replaced. Battery needs to be replaced every 3 years. Interior lights seem to drain the battery."

"headlights have burned out 5 times since we bought it"

"routine headlights burn out very quickly. Fancy headlights burn out even faster."

"I had to have lamps replaced several times, and the alternator... which may have been the root cause. I experienced a flickering of my headlights (brightening/dimming), which was disconcerting especially at night, as I was worried about losing all lights while driving at night."

"I had to replace a headlight. Have to do this about once a year"

"Bulbs become loose in their sockets"

"A headlight blows out after every 6-8 months or so - needs to be replaced"

"Automatic beam shift when other vehicle approaching did not work correctly"

"This car eats headlight bulbs"

"Have had to replace headlight bulbs several times"

"Either front headlight burns out after about 6 months. This has happened since we bought the car new in 2005"

"I have replaced headlights 6 or 7 times in the last 18 months. I have used both manufacturer and aftermarket bulbs and they last no more than 6 months"

"Repeated electrical wiring shorts, headlight failure"

"Left and right headlights have burned out five times each on this car. They have lasted an average of 24K miles. Service technicians have told me that this is common on this model. I have never had a car with headlights that burn out frequently. Thes"

"I love this car, but have replaced 20 headlight bulbs since I purchased it new"

"We were having to replace bulbs so frequently that we went ahead and got two entirely new headlight assemblies and had them installed. We've not had any problems since then"

"Lamps have a shorter life span than they should and are extremely difficult to replace"

"Have replaced headlight bulbs half a dozen times. Most for any car owned"

"Headlights burn out rapidly like in 6-12 months"

"Since new I have replaced the headlight bulb at least 10 times on both sides"

"Headlights go out frequently, it seems more than usual"

"They burned out too soon. Hard to find the problem until after many years the wiring harness for them was replaced"

"Headlights seem to burn out once or twice a month. Also dash lights and rear tail lights / marker lights burn out often"

"Plastic lens faded obstructs visibility"

"Need to replace headlight bulb every 3-4 months"

"Headlights blew out twice"

"since I drove it off the lot, both headlights have had issues with bulbs burning out, sometimes within weeks of replacement"

"Must replace at a higher than normal rate"

"They go out all the time, have to always keep spare headlights on hand because you never know when they'll expire. Have run into other CR-V owners at auto parts store who say the same as they stock up (like me) on spares"

"Headlamp bulbs were burning out a few months after being replaced. I took the car to the dealer and they replaced the lamp sockets, and I haven't had any problems since"

"Cloudiness in lens covers reduces light pass-through"

"Headlight bulbs burn out too quickly"

"Bulbs in headlights keep going out about every 3 months. Have had dealer, local garage, and others replace but all burn out fairly quickly"

"one head light and one rear light needed to be replaced"

"A couple of the lights around the climate control dials have gone out, making heating and A/C selection at night difficult. Honda wants hundreds to replace the bulbs, so we're living with the problem, as we don't drive much at night."

"Nearly all the lights on my dash have faded to black. Fortunately I can still see my gas gauge and most of my speedometer. My A/C and heating knobs are also now black."

"Keep interior lights off - seem to drain the battery."

"Lights in dashboard all went dark"

"The instrument panel lights that back light it went out. There are several small lights in the instrument cluster. These had to be replaced by removing the instrument cluster. The problem started during the fall of 2019 and was fixed at the beginning of April 2020."

"Dash lights are almost completely burned out. Never had a car lose so many lights"

"Last time a headlight blew, two interior dial lights also went out"

"The backlight go out intermittently in the a/c and heater gauges"

"Eventually all doors stopped working for keyless locking/unlocking of doors"

"4 of the 5 Door activators either stopped or work intermittently work."

"2 door lock actuators needed to be replaced because they failed to function"

"My keys won't unlock the doors. I have to do it manually except for drivers sude door. They want $500 to repair it"

"The remote hasn't worked"

"driver side door would not open. Replaced electronic device in door"

"After the hatchback lock quit working remotely, I started locking the back with a key. One time after unlocking the back manually with the key, the lock seized my key and I needed to call a locksmith who was able to release the key from the hatchback"

"Keyless entry does not work. Also the doors do not lock unless the button is pushed"

"replaced two sets of door locks and the actuator"

"Keyless entry stopped working in mid-2014. The door unlock motor sounds like it tries to activate, but does not unlock the driver door. Lights do flash to indicate it is trying to work and the problem is not in the key transmitter. I don't remember t"

"Passenger side doors keyless entry will not work after being replaced. Mechanic thinks the problem is in the main control panel in drivers side door"

"WE've had to replace 1 or 2 lock mechanisms and now another is not working"

"locks stopped working and very expensive to fix $300 per door"

"Keyless entry has completely stopped working even though I have replaced the FOB batteries"

"the seat belt light stays on after you buckle up"

"The air bag warning light saying that the air bag was off on the passenger side would sometimes be ON or OFF whether there was anyone in it or not. This was after the airbags had been replaced due to the recall. The dealership could not fix it except for a total electrical replacement costing over a thousand dollars. I chose not to have that done as only seldom is there a passenger. As an aside just last week the directional signals and hazard lights stopped working. I will have that fixed."

"check engine light comes on even if no problems with car"

"switch on driver side interior door frame that sounds a buzzer when you leave your lights on or key in the ignition after you turn the car off"

"Fuse box short failure"

"The washer system repeatedly clogs"

"Rear wiper motor failed and needed replacement"

"Computer board went out. Cost for replacement over $2,500 after they failed to notify me that my extended repair contract had expired due to their error in not putting a expire date on contract in the computer"

"Calibers hung up causing pad and rotor damage"

"Calipers seize up too often. Have replaced about 4 of them"

"Calipers froze up and had to be replaced along with brake pads and routers"

"Calipers seized"

"rear driver side caliper frozen closed"

"Just normal use issues; I live in an area with a lot of hills so I use the brakes more than usual"

"Needed replacement."

"rear calipers locked up"

"both rear calipers froze to some extent causing a burning smell. we thought at first it was rubber burning but turns out to be the brake pads rubbing too much. premature wear on the pads led to the solution"

"fronts and rears needed replacing"

"My left rear caliper froze in the closed position, causing need to replace brake pads and rotor. Because of the left caliper failure, my right rear had to do extra duty and I had to replace the brake pads. I had the rear brakes replaced under 5000 mi"

"The right rear caliper was partially locked for a significant period of time, causing damage to the rotor and brake pad"

"failed"

"Surprised that this vehicle should need front callipers. Rotors I can understand but not callipers"

"rear left caliper frozen demage rotors"

"Smelled burning in rear. It was the calipers frozen Replaced both sides plus pads. This was really the first big exspence other than normal maintenance tires etc.1020.00"

"It maid vbriting noise"

"My car suddenly failed to stop properly, causing me to go through a stop sign (no accidents or tickets). When the tow truck operator tried to tow my car, it was discovered that the right rear caliper was partially locked"

"Getting service is becoming too expensive. My wife and are are considering downsizing to one car to save cost."

"The car needed normal new brake pads, etc."

"The car is older and has been a very reliable car. But I replaced all the breaks and then the master cylinder went and then the calipers needed to be replaced and it was costing serious money to keep it running."

"Normal wear! Simply needed replacing"

"Needed complete rebuild of brake system."

"The car seems to need lots of brake work: pad replacement, frozen calipers, etc"

"Was time for the back brakes, last year it was time for the front brakes. Normal wear!"

"Had rear breaks replaced - had front breaks done previously"

"Normal brake job"

"Needed to replace brake pads front and rear"

"adjust & clean brakes @ 14000 miles"

"Wheel bearing rear pasanger side"

"My 2005 CRV's parking brake has to be used daily as that car always rolls after you park unless the road is completely flat. Our 2006 CRV doesn't do this and it's the same modle and trim line. So, on a regular basi, I have to get my parking brake tightened. A littly annoying."

"Brakes continue to fail prematurely. Calipers seize on a regular basis."

"I¿ve had to replace breaks too often"

"Pads wore out doe to calipers and rotors"

"Frequency of pad replacements seems excessive"

"Used Monro Muffler which uses REA.LLY cheep replacement parts"

"Brake pads etc blamed on rust,"

"Brakes in general need wear out too often including calipers"

"I knew the brakes were vibrating a little when applied but we are in the due diligence stage of buying our house and was hoping to get past closing before getting new brakes. I downshifted, took my foot off the gas to slow down as much as possible. Then, suddenly, they started to make a horrific grinding sound that made the whole car shudder. The next day we took it to our trusted mechanic who replaced both rear brake pads, rotors, and calipers."

"Brakes needed replacing due to age and use."

"Pads & rotors would need replacing almost yearly after parking while away for annual monthly winter holiday. Now have brakes cleaned & lubricated semi annually (not specified in manual) which has improved performance"

"Not a surprise, really. The car had been standing for a while. Since these were repaired, at about 800.00, the car has been mostly fantastic. A solid, nimble, reliable little vehicle that's also fun to drive"

"Just needed to be turned when replacing pads"

"Just normal usage issues, same as the calipers. I live in an area with a lot of hills so I use my brakes more than typical usage"

"Dealership are constantly claiming that rotors either need turning or replaement. It's constant. I have no problens with the brakes - they seem to work fine, although a caliper froze on me last year an needed replacement"

"rotors warped and needed resurfacing"

"Rust on rotor edges caused knocking noise sometimes. Bearing squeal made this hard to hear so after dealer fixed axle bearings this came up. Dealer replaced rotors and pads in one trip. It is probably normal for the mileage. Seems expensive to repair until comparing to payments on a new vehicle!"

"Rotors were a little wrapped because of normal wear. Had to reface them"

"Constant break replaced: rotors, calipers, discs: blamed on rust M"

"As stated in previous note, rotor needed replacing when brakes ceased up after vehicle was parked for a month"

"replace demage by frozen caliper rear l/side"

"Front Rotors needed turned"

"The vehicle shuttered badly on any braking but especially high speed"

"I heard squealing from my brakes and I when I took it in I needed brakes, calipers, and rotors. I had similar work done about 2 years ago by someone else. Not sure if the original work was not done correctly or the car just needed new brakes. Unfortunately by the time the car made me aware of the issue (by squealing) I needed almost all new brakes necessities."

"wear and tear on brakes...you don't have enough categories to specify...167000 miles on the brakes"

"Dealer indicated a problem, but independent mechanic could not verify it"

"brake pads were almost frozen on the disk or drum. Mostly due to age they said"

"Comes and goes randomly regardless if cold or hot and isn't the breaks. Most noisy on wet days"

"I found out the alignment was off when I went to rotate my tires and found the wear was so uneven that I needed 4 new tires"

"Went out of alignment in a very short time - approx. 500 miles (or the alignment equipment was not working properly)"

"noise and leaking fluid"

"Complete breakdown of ball joints... Lucky to have surviived. A dangerous situation"

"Wear and tear maintenance"

"Worn so replaced"

"Front tires shudder in turns, either tie rod ends or ball joints. Tie rod ends are easy to change, ball joints require professional work. Only 135000 kms. on vhicle, neither should be a problem"

"Technician said parts were worn out due to low mileage. He indicated higher mileage CRVs rarely experience this type of wear"

"Ball joints needed replacement last month. Squeaking badly"

"Typical wear factor for a vehicle of this age, not all that expensive to repair"

"Since the Honda is still running great with over 252000 miles the suspension rubber bushings get eaten by the Texas weather and this is expected. The car is over 13 years old. I was able to buy the bushings and rent a tool to replace them. I also replaced the ball joints myself and used tape measures and a laser to perform a 4 wheel alignment."

"bushings wore out, dealership replaced same"

"The rubber bushings on the control arm have worn out"

"compliance bushings and one motor mount worn out"

"The car had been gradually making more and more noise when going over bumps. There were no steering nor alignment issues. It cost $2000 to replace all the necessary parts, and the car drives silently now."

"All I know is when I had the front and rear aligned they said that some bearings or bushings were worn and should be replaced soon,the price was four hundred dollars each bearing for one wheel.I have not replaced them yet."

"Worn. replaced as PM"

"BUSHINGS WORN/RUSTED OUT AND COULD LEAD TO SERIOUS PROBLEM IF NOT REPLACED--COST $750"

"The bushings are cracking/breaking down"

"Leaking power steering pump"

"The power pump needed replacement due to its inability to properly permit the flow of the steering fluid through its system. This also facilitated a strange sound when turning and my inability to turn the wheel properly"

"Replacement of parts was overdue due to use and age of vehicle."

"Like I mentioned in the past posting I had to replace the entire suspension systemm"

"expensive to replace front struts"

"Rear Struts were replaced at 197000 miles, Front struts will be replaced soon"

"oil seals in shocks were leaking oil replaced all four struts ."

"had to be replaced; vibration at road speeds was excessive"

"in 2009 and again in 2013 spport strut for right front wheel cracked off leaving wheel "unhinged""

"I replaced all four struts in 2010. One rear strut broke in 2014, replaced for labor only. Had the front struts changed last month. Needed struts, ball joints, sway bars"

"The car started hitting the bumps really hard; when I got my tires rotated recently they told me the shocks were bad. I had them replaced--and the front ones were really bad. I got good prices and my mechanic is reasonable but it was still expensive"

"Front struts went out. Replaced within 2 days of experiencing the problem. Work was completed by a local auto service and repair business. Mechanics are certified"

"loose sway bar"

"This was answered previously on the earlier question."

"Steering arms (both) were cracked; one close to breaking through. Discovered when my mechanic was changing the oil, put the car on a lift and gave it a check. Caught just in time!"

"Wear and tear maintenance"

"I have had this problem for the life of the car"

"replaced the swaybar links and bushings"

"Mechanics cant not find this problem"

"The problem was caused by poor repair at Honda dealer. The dealer replaced the rubber boots on the tie rods and ball joints, but didn't tighten all the bolts. The car steered erratically because of loose front end. I took it to an independent alignment shop and they diagnosed the problem. Just had to tighten all the bolts regarding tie rods etc."

"The entire suspension system needed replacing before it could be driven. tie rods, struts, ball joints stabilizer bushings,"

"INCLUDED WITH THE BUSHINGS"

"Due to a collision, had body work done and they did not fix frame correctly, now the car pulls left and wheels need balancing often"

"The wheels have to be exactly the same measurement when filled with air or the whole car shakes and rattles on the highway"

"Left front wheel bearing had to be replaced."

"There is a noise/click that comes from the wheel/tire area. It happens when I start the car and brake, it happens when I'm parked at a store and depress the brakes. My mechanic tells me it's a problem in the wheel area and that Honda does not have a fix for it. I've been driving and hearing the click for a year and all is well. The click noise happens regardless of the weather. It's bothersome and it sounds like the shoe, or wheel in this instance will drop at any time. I'm delighted that I found a personal Honda specific mechanic 2 miles from home."

"Again, technician said wear was mainly due to low mileage"

"Wheel bearing wore out but Honda refused to sell me the special tool needed to replace it so I could replace it myself. Found that Honda is not supportive of DIY owners like myself. Had to pay $180 for a universal bearing removal kit in order to do"

"front passenger bearings and axle had to be replaced at 100k miles"