Hyundai Santa Fe Change Vehicle

“light come on says the the emission is unsatisfactory even though it can pass the test. So when the emission test is due we have difficulty certifying the car”

“Leak caused check engine light to go on”

“Fuel senders failed causing gas guage to not read”

“Both fuel gauge/tank sensors failed in 2014 & were replaced. In January 2015 gauge started reading empty when I knew I had at least 4 gallons or so in the tank. Had the sensors checked & they were OK. Since I drive a lot of highway miles for work thi”

“Fuel gauge stop working”

“The fuel gauge would read empty even when full. The dealer said it would cost $750 to fix as they would have to drop the fuel tank to repair the gauge”

“Fuel sensor would indicate full of gasoline and then would suddenly indicate empty. Replaced sensors to solve problem caused by bad gasoline--conjecture”

“The "float arm" broke. If tank is fuel it registers otherwise the gauge shows me on empty.The cost is high and this is the number 1 issue ed on this car per my auto repair shop. Since this is a flaw on the car I feel its the company's responsibility”

“As previously stated, had to replace unit”

“Fuel gauge failed .required new sensors installed”

“Had to replace poorly designed fuel sender (you have to replace both because you don't know which is faulty) and main dealer price is north of $800”

“Also failed just out of warranty”

“not working”

“Both sensors have failed 1000 miles after warranty expired. Fuel gage no longer reads correctly or at all . Saving up for repairs. I was given a $750 estimate”

“The fuel gauge was misreading from day 1 but they wouldn't touch it, and then it recently started giving check engine warning about the fuel sender needing replacement (can't remember the bill but in the $300 range). They wouldn't honour it so had to”

“2 sensors inside fule tank one failed, fule indicator stopped working. Replaced under warranty”

“fuel gauge sensor was faulty..repaired under warranty”

“Fuel sender was faulty and would send false readings. Hyundai refused to replace even though I had found this was a common problem; therefore I ended up paying for the repairs”

“failure of fuel tank level sensor. $700 to fix at dealership”

“Fuel gauge is wildly inaccurate. Rarely registers more than half full. When I fill tank, gauge drops to zero and reserve light comes on. I have not fixed because the pump and gauge are one unit. Instead, I reset the trip odometer each time I fill the tank and refill at 250-300 miles”

“fuel gauge began working intermittantly, then crapped out. after i googled, i saw this is a very common problem with the hyundais, there should be a recall, BOTH tank senders had to be replaced”

“Fuel Level sensor failed causing the check engine to light. Could not pass the Maryland Emission Inspection. Cost to repair - about $900”

“Fuel gauge constantly reading empty despite being full of fuel”

“Both fuel gauge senders had to be replaced twice before they worked. Known problem by Hyundai would not cover. Cost over $600”

“Fuel Gauge indication intermittent”

“Both senders failed 6 months ago and I was able to have both replaced recently but now they are faulty again. I have never seen this happen on a vehicle with less than 65000 Km on it”

“Barely out of 60k warranty I began getting erratic fuel level indications which is a common problem with Santa Fes. I bought a tool and new fuel level sensors on line and replaced them myself. Now the fuel gauge reads correctly”

“the fuel sender has failed twice on this vehicle. There are 2 senders. It is expensive to repair. Further, after one repair there was a very strong gas odor in the vehicle. Not sure if it was due to mechanic error or not. Ended up taking to dealership, where had to again replace a sender unit and get the odor stopped”

“The fuel gauge begain to fail and then a second sensor inside the gas tank failed, which caused the "check engine light" to come on and stay on. We took it to the Hyundai dealer. Repair costs for both sensors (mostly labor) was about $550. Access to sensors inside tank was through the interior, which caused it to smell of gas for several days”

“Engine light came on- diagnostic codes show intermittent problem with fuel measure gauge in tank”

“The fuel gauge sensor did not work therefore I was not able to Tell if I needed gas or not. This cause me to run out of gas”

“fuel sensor went bad... gas gauge, mileage gauge etc didnt work”

“There are 2 sensors. Guage was not indicating properly so had both sensors replaced. Still did not work so returned to have one of new sensors replaced. Now guage only shows half full even when tank is full and check engine light comes on every time I fill up. 3 - 4 hours labour every time one of the sensors is changed. Major design flaw!”

“This is a well documented problem with this vehicle. Should of had a recall issued by Hyundai”

“Gauge was not accurate and sometimes did not work at all”

“Fuel cap snapped into pieces one day. The fuel level indicator no longer works”

“Complete fuel system service done”

“from 10k miles to now - when stopped- idle will surge and then drop to a hard shudder over and over. They said it was carbon on the throttle body. Now they want to replc the throttle body for $500. a 70k vehicle should not need a new throttle body”

“My car was not starting. It was not even turning over. I needed a new fuel injection pump and system”

“Gas gauge would register empty when tank would still be 1/4 to 1/2 full. Check engine light stayed on. Had to replace fuel pump module assembly and sending unit. Also, had to replace clockspring assembly”

“probleme with the connector of the pump the dealer did not fixed the connector properly twice then they put silicon to glue the connector”

“Had to replace throttle position sensor. Car was running rough and "missing" at highway speed”

“Check engine light (indicating emissions control problem) is frequently on, especially since I began experiencing problems with the fuel gauge. I have my mechanic reset it, or just ignore it”

“it was sensors that identified the problem with the gas evap system”

“The fuel gauge begain to fail and then a second sensor inside the gas tank failed, which caused the "check engine light" to come on and stay on. We took it to the Hyundai dealer. Repair costs for both sensors (mostly labor) was about $550. Access to sensors inside tank was through the interior, which caused it to smell of gas for several days”

“Fuel system sensor in gas tank had to be replaced. Removal of rear seat. Gas smell in car for 2 weeks later”

“The engine light periodically turns on. Gettel Hyundai of Lakewood, FL claimed it was a sensor in the fuel tank. After spending over $400, it was not fixed. They wanted another $500 to replace something else. The vehicle runs well so I have not had it repaired. They appear to be only guessing at the solution”

“Fuel sensor failure and gasket failure required multiple service trips to fix”

“Ball joints replaced 2 times”

“needed replacing”

“Replaced. Had more front end work done end of 2015 as well. Tie rod ends and another ball joint”

“The front lower ball joints needed to be replaced at a cost of $700”

“Wore out.. replaced under warranty”

“Replace left ball joint as recommended by dealer, didn't know I had a problem,”

“Front end bushings got noisy so I replaced them. Alleged normal wear”

“Power steering motor went out and we had to replace it”

“The right front strut was causing a loud clunk sound. It at first was not constant but eventually it became constant and was replaced by a dealership”

“Leaking passenger side strut”

“They were pretty loose (we live on a dirt road) and needed replacement”

“Leackage”

“Don't know”

“Replaced a strut under warranty”

“Front struts failed causing premature failure with the left ball joint and lower control arm assembly and both sway bars. $1260 in repairs”

“suspension noise is terrible and car seems to sway side to side”

“Told by mechanic that front struts were leaking”

“intermittant shake and tps tire light came on, 4 trips to two dealers before they figured out the rack and pinion was bad and was putting air bubbles in the system”

“Had to replace entire power steering system”

“The left and right outer tie rod assemblies were worn at the joints and had play present. This was a safety issue, and the car had to remain in the shop longer than expected because of it. Was not under warranty and was over $400 to fix”

“L\Rod linkage had plactic parts causing suspension noise”

“Had a rattle. Technician found loose sway bar. Replaced it. . Reportedly is common occurrence”

“Play”

“wore out”

“Front passenger side had to be replaced. Had same problem with my 2001 Santa Fe. The tie rod broke while I was driving”

“this was the second Wheel bearing that i needed to replace. The car is only 6 yrs old but the road conditions in Qu?c are awful”

“I have had to replace the wheel bearings in 2 wheels in the last 2 years - repairman said this model had trouble with this as there was no shield to protect the bearings from water”

“Slow build up of wheel noise from the rear. Independent and trusted garage identified the problem as wheel bearings. Replaced both rear wheel bearings for about 700$C each”

“Both rear wheel bearings failed . One at about 90000 and second at about 99000”

“Wheel bearings needed to be replaced in two wheels approximately one month apart”

“All 4 wheel bearings replaced within 1 month”

“Had to get my front right wheel hub replaced two weeks ago. This is the third wheel hub replacement in the last four years, all different ones. Only one original wheel hub left on the vehicle, what are my chances?”

“master cylinder collapsed, leaking, both flex lines off and were replaced”

“Noise from rear end when braking”

“I am not unhappy with the first brake job being done at 75K, but I tried to be proactive by doing the regular service to the vehicle in an effort to head off expensive repairs jobs. At 75K this was the first brake job but I had no indication that I w”

“Rotars & brake pads replaced”

“needed brakes”

“Had to replace both front and rear calipers at less than 25,000 miles. Rear calipers failed first”

“Front brakes wear fine. Rear brakes last @ 10 months?”

“brakes wear out on back too fast. calipers sometimes keep brakes applied after releasing brakes”

“i think my daughter had parking brake on and drove it a few miles. I dont think brakes should be metal to metal with 30000 miles ?”

“Brakes need to be replaced every 30,000 miles”

“Rear brakes in this SUV are to be replaced regularly at less than 20,000 km. They don't last”

“Also 2 sets of pads”

“Hyunday brake rotors for this model year are very low quality, and tend to rust very quickly”

“old”

“Took vehicle in for regular and normal service. Did the 60K service including inspection of brakes. At 75K brakes were done with replacement of both front rotors with no indications at the 60K service that complete replacement of rotors would be nece”

“Rotors have rusted and pitted excessively and have thus reduced available braking power”

“I have put 2 sets of rotors on the vehicle in the past 29,000 miles. Corrosion is the main problem”

“I needed a complete brake job”

“Had to replace rather than resurfacing rotors when replacing brake pads”

“brakes old and needed 2b replaced”

“needed new front brake pads”