Hyundai Santa Fe Change Vehicle

“We have had to replace all the ball joints, never had to do this before on a vehicle”

“both worn, needed replacement”

“Car developed "clunking" noise in front suspension. Required rebuild. Cost almost $1000”

“Replaced left front ball joint. Continuous knocking noise in right front noise. Dealer said ball joint is ok, but noise continues”

“Part of the suspension rebuild”

“Power steering pump replaced once under warranty. Now it sounds like it is going again. Same squeal as before when the wheel is turned”

“power steering fluid gets dirty and required flushing and re fill to eliminate noise. 3rd time for this under warranty”

“Took vehicle to dealer before the 5 year warranty ran out; they did not discover anything needing attention. 3 weeks later, the power steering began making grinding noises and leaking. I now need to replace the power steering pump at a cost of $640”

“2nd set of broken struts in 15 months”

“Needed struts replaced and was sent home after repairs with loose parts”

“One had to be replaced at about 110,000 miles and one at 130,000”

“Noticed a rattle when going over bumps. Shocks needed replacing. Dealer handled in warranty”

“failed under normal driving, much sooner than expected”

“both front struts were leaking and had to be replaced”

“Struts leaked”

“Makes loud "thunk" when passing over speed bumps”

“replaced both upper front strut mounts may 2015 replaced right front strut may 2014 replaced both rear shocks apr 2013 replaced left front strut mar 2013 replaced strut mount bearings and rear swaybar bushings mar 2013”

“Wore out quickly”

“Replaced both front struts and rear shocks (later). The top of the shock mount was separated causing banging noise”

“Struts were leaking and replaced under warranty/5 years or 100,000 km. Dealer discounted the cost for the required 4 wheel alignment”

“The front shocks were replaced at 60000km and 99000km (leaking)”

“replaced shocks by dealer and warranty covered it”

“front shocks leaked oil, had to be replaced under warranty”

“This is a very common problem for Sante Fe's. Had a 2007 Santa Fe that was returned to dealer for warranty repairs more than 3 time. This 2010 has had 3 repairs to the struts so far”

“Potholes and other bad road conditions ruined the suspension”

“Worn out struts. Finally convinced a dealer that it wasn't due to an accident”

“Right front strut was bad and leaking. May have been caused by an accident in early 2014 that went undetected”

“Replaced 3 times since new. Do not last”

“Front coil spring broke and was rubbing against the tire”

“There was a recall on the springs. I had already suffered from a broken front spring and had paid for the repairs myself because the warranty was no longer in effect. Amazingly - Hyundai Canada re-imbursed me for the cost I had incurred. I should note that warranty repairs are difficult because my nearest dealer is 600 km away”

“A small portion of a front spring broke and while there was no noticeable droop in the vehicle it was close to puncturing a tire. (It was discovered during a routine oil change in late June 2016, one day before a road trip through the mountains.) Both Springs were replaced at a cost of $1010. In September, based on a recall which had been issued by Hyundai, I received a refund of $753. to cover parts and labour). The remaining costs were for a 4 wheel alignment, "miscellaneous" and taxes, which”

“broken spring”

“A large piece of a front coil spring broke off our vehicle. It was a costly repair. Our mechanic said he's been seeing more of this in Hyundais lately & thinks there may end up being a recall”

“Front coil spring broke on the drives side and was rubbing on the tire. This defect was not covered by Hyundai and had to be replaced at my cost”

“Right front spring broke & dug into the tire destroying the tire”

“spring was broken- gently driven car”

“Joints were loose causing front wheels to wobble and rattle which was most noticeable over 80kmph”

“Rack and pinon replaced at a cost for over $1,000”

“Small noise in bottom end when driving over bumps. Had small lower linkage replaced. No problems since. Works fine for the last year and a half!”

“steering wheel vibration at around 60 mph, turns out needed new tires/balance”

“need replaced too often along with broken coil spring and ball joints. And I do not abuse vehicles”

“front anti-sway rod had to be replaced due to excess wear”

“have had to replace left tie rod twice, and right tie rod once”

“replaced”

“Switch when bad causing battery drain”

“Interior overlight did not come on when door was opened. Hazard light warning light button flickers every few seconds in the dark”

“Dome light does not light when the door is opened”

“1) Interior lights staying on after shutting off vehicle (auto-shutoff not working properly; 2) Interior lights staying on while driving (no auto-shutoff)”

“Contorl panel on base of roof malfunctions. Interior lights won,t always come on when you open the door. If they do come on the won.t shut off. Sliding rood window may not shut if you open it or sounds like you are grinding something in a blender”

“fix then fail again”

“Interior front dome light no longer comes on when door is opened. Similar problem with rear overhead lights. Was told they're all related. Getting new map light replaced under warranty, which they think will fix the other lights”

“Interior front seat map light failed. replaced under warranty”

“Front interior light panel was replaced 3years ago and door lights are not working again dealer is again investigating”

“Power door lock on driver side works intermittently. Other doors work fine”

“Driver's side electric door lock stopped functioning”

“Door lock needed replacement”

“Using key fob to lock doors, occasionally, while you can "hear" the doors locking, sometimes one or more doors will remain unlocked. Must check that doors are locked each time you leave vehicle”

“The passenger side rear door lock motor failed”

“Door lock broke, replaced selenoid”

“Passenger side front door would not lock using fob or door lock switch; only manual lever would lock door. Actuator was replace under warranty”

“Power locks have failed and been replaced on all doors”

“Front passenger door would not lock”

“Doesn't lock or unlock drivers side door only other door locks function correctly. Must use key to lock or unlock drivers side door”

“warning lights have been diagnosed as sensors. They are very expensive to replace”

“I had to pay $650 to have a faulty oil pressure sensor replaced”

“The check engine light will come on while cruising on the highway on a long trip. The code downloaded from the computer indicates a fault with the oil control valve for the variable valve timing. The control valve has been replaced two times and the”

“Cheaply made, came out of console early on”

“doesn't work”

“Not sure this is a "body control module" problem Car would not start sometimes, just turn over without firing. Take the key out and insert again and it would start right away. some sort of fuel mix sensor problem”

“Fuse issue also somehow caused car to overheat”

“RECALL: Tail light”

“Ground strap to chassis corroded”

“very unreliable, warning comes on when the tire pressure is fine so the system 'cries wolf' and gets ignored which then lead to a flat tire on the MA Pike”

“windshield wiper washer pump motor had to be replaced”

“Rust. Calipers seized”

“Calipers froze regularly causing scoring of the rotors.Rotors had to be machined and finally front ones had to be replaced. About once a year calipers had to be removed, cleaned and lubricated because of scoring problem. Very expensive. Caused by r”

“Tends to stick on. Does not release”

“Remained on after use and couldn't be released”

“The parking brake would not disengage. Probably user error for infrequent use”

“Parking brake will not hold the vechile from moving back when applied. Needs constant adjustment from mechanic to fix. soon after adjustment it soon fails again”

“I have never owned a vehicle that has required replacing rear brake pads and rotors so often. My original rear brakes lasted until 85,000 km when I had to replace the pads and rotors. At 107,000 kms I had to replace both front and rear pads and rotors, then again at 131,000 kms the rear pads and rotors needed replacing once again due to seizing up”

“Driven easy and mostly highway yet total brake job required at 80k. This is after doing there $100. Service every 6 months . When the brakes let go they just started making grinding and scraping very very loud. Took it in immediately and everything”

“replaced: front &rear pads aug 2011 front & rear pads may 2012 rotors plus front & rear pads jul 2013 handbrake shoe & hardware kit ju 2014 replc'd/lubricated pads myself since 2014”

“Rear brakes worn out and needed new rotors at 20,000 km. Pathetic - and poorly supported by Hyundai. I will NEVER go back to another of their products”

“See previous”

“Not so much a problem as I consider brakes a wear item”

“Dealing with the Hyundai Dealership. Took my Santa Fe to a chain service centre which cost 25% less and offered a better warranty”

“Same as previous issue”

“rotors needed to be turned”

“Driver door had problems closing in cold weather. Also door seems to shift when opened. Had brake pads renewed but back twice to adjust as there is an issue with putting new pads on old rotors. Squeaking and abrupt stops are common”

“The front brakes had to be replaced at 43,000 miles . the dealer told me this was normal. My 2006 gmc truck has 101,000 miles on it & the brakes have never been replaced. The dealer said the brakes should be good for 150,000 miles”

“It was just time. Brake rotors don't last forever. This car does not have a history of brake problems”

“Had to replace brake pads etc, fairly expensive”

“invoice says "replace pads & rotors (brakes - replace front pads & rotors) "”

“I went to car dealer for oil change. They checked my brakes and said they needed replaced in the next 3 months”

“At 60,000 miles I needed brake pads, just normal wear”