Hyundai Sonata Change Vehicle

“Same as rotors, rusted to the point of replacement at 32K miles”

“Rear disc brakes faulty, maybe due to poor mtc. by first owner, not really an excuse for the defect. Bought as certified used car, it should have been fixed. I'm now seeking warranty repair, that seems can only be done by selling dealer”

“serviced regularly but still stick and wear prematurely”

“Actually, the hydraulic braking system had to be replaced. Luckily for me, it was under warranty”

“This was a proactive recall to replace the main line from the master cylinder, I do not believe I experienced any problems in this area personally”

“Intermittent vibration and engaging due to rusting”

“It is not fixed yet. I believe the lining has come loose on the left rear parking brake and periodically jams the wheel when the parking brake is released”

“Took it in for a recall and the dealer talked me into state inspection. $1000 later”

“Brakes wore out prematurely, rotors locked up”

“Garage indicated brakes were rusty and had to be replaced”

“I didn't expect to need new brakes on this car after owning it for 3.5 years. My previous car wasa Toyota camry and I didn't need brakes for a longer period of ownership”

“excessive wear for only having 54000 miles. brought to dealer. have to assume that they are correctly doing necessary repair”

“Driven mostly highway very easy on brakes yet complete overhaul of all rotors, pads etc at 80k. Easily driven on highway excepted to last longer and there was no warning they were going. Hyundai doesn't seem to believe in squeeking sensors to alert y”

“Brakes were gone and all rotors were grooved at 37000 miles. $ 600 repair”

“OEM brake pads and rotors did not last long. They wore out @ 28,000 miles. On my purchased new 2007 Toyota Camry, they lasted about 45,000 miles. Same with OEM tires. Sonata tires wore out @ 28,000 miles. OEM Camry tires around 45,000 miles”

“replaced oem brakes @82000. at a Goodyear Tire Service center. Had to replace them all again last week@ 119000 because of inferior quality of Brakes and Rotors the Goodyear Service Center installed”

“I had to replace front and rear pads at 20K miles (the disks were fine). I am an extremely conservative driver and if appropriate will coast when approaching a traffic light to avoid applying the brakes, if possible. I feel the pads should have laste”

“Early on, first year, I found that the brake pads were getting too much wear. After replacement and readjustment (I believe the problem was related to calipers), wear rates returned to normal”

“brakes wore down faster than expected and i had to replace front and back brakes”

“Rotors calipers replaced 3 times 2 wheel bearings replaced”

“had to replace brake rotors on front brakes”

“This car goes through brakes about every 8-9 months, pads and rotors. NEVER had a car that needed new brakes every 15,000 miles. and rotors??”

“Had them replaced”

“I have 32K miles on this car and live near the ocean and experience street flooding. The rotors, calipers and related hardware has rusted and must be replaced. Other vehicles in the same area seem to have no such problems”

“When I had new breaks installed, the rotors were locked up and had to be replaced. Car company denied any problems on their end”

“They had to be turned down, now brakes are ok”

“have had brakes worked on two times during my 54000 miles. seems excessive to me. otherwise I love this car”

“Rear Wheel Rotors corroded prematurely. The Front Rotors were fine and able to be turned down”

“OEM rotors did not last long... only about 28,000 miles. Again, on new 2007 Toyota Camry they lasted till about 45,000 miles. Squeaking/rubbing noise from front disc breaking system always there @ cold start & during winter season”

“replaced rotors with only 20000 miles”

“Went on vacation for 6 weeks. Returned and the brakes made lots of noise. Had the brake rotors turned which didn't fix the problem so I had all four rotors and pads replaced. the problem appears fixed”

“I started hearing a squeaky noise each time I make a turn left or right from the stirring wheel”

“Needed a front in brake job”

“Rear brakes not smooth and make slight sound”

“normal brake wear after 77000 km”

“front rotors needed resurfacing”

“The battery died on my car and the dealer said that it was only guaranteed for 3 years? I bought a new battery and a year later I thought that I had a battery problem and was told only the selling dealership would honor that warranty”

“Car would not start, but would turn over as normal. Didn't know a weak battery could cause the starter to not engage the engine. Replaced the battery”

“Around the 51000 mileage mark, it began working intermittently. I would have to crank the car 3 to 4 times before it would start. No further issues since I had it replaced the starter”

“I have had three different occasions where the push start did not work and twice had to be towed to the dealer to fix. The third time it finally started working after 20 minutes of trying”

“Transmission switch failure which rendered car unstartable. Had to be towed, not covered by warranty”

“car wouldn't start, had to be towed. Replaced switch”

“Needed new starter”

“Had to replace it because it stopped working”

“a plastic part in the starter broke, needed new starter & warranty didn't cover it although it's under 100000 miles. i understand others had the same problem”

“A/C comp clutch and starter motor both failed in the 75k mile range. Starter intermittently failed to turn and crank the engine. Both failures NOT covered by Hyundais 10yr/10000M warranty. Both failures showed unacceptable service life, way short of normally expected life”

“Starter failed. I replaced it”

“starter failed at 72000 miles”

“Starter would not connect with the engine itself and the engine would not turn over”

“Car would not start”

“Replaced starter lever arm. Car would not start”

“Starter failed and had to be replaced”

“Starter stopped working. Manual said if you don't replace the key fob battery could damage the starter. Apparently it did”

“wife got stuck car would not start, brought to Hyundai and had to put in new starter, was not covered under warrenty at 60000 mi”

“The starter failed at 40000 miles ... not very good reliability in my opinion”

“STARTER FAILED AT 40000 mI. TOWED TO DEALER AND REPLACED AT NO CHARGE”

“At 49,600 miles the starter lever failed. Vehicle towed to dealer under warranty. A weak part replaced hopefully with a stronger one”

“Starter failed and drained the battery. Car would not start”

“It went out, leading to an expensive ($550) repair. That's disappointing at only 70,000 miles and only 10k mile out of warranty. Otherwise an excellent car”

“Starter failed due to failure of plastic yoke inside starter”

“Starter rod failed”

“would not start”

“Starter Solenoid stopped working”

“Starter repaired free under guarantee”

“For the second time since I bought the car, the push button switch is not working. My car had to be towed”

“starter went bad at 64000 mile”

“The plastic actuator broke on the starter. It was not covered under the warranty. The cost to repair was ridiculous”

“Starter went out and had to be replaced. A plastic part inside broke”

“delay of power when push pedal”

“Complete engine failure at 98000. Hyundai replaced long block motor for free and supplied a rental for the entire period”

“Factory recall for the engine due to metal shavings in the oil journals of the crankshaft. Longblock replacement of engine”

“Engine was replaced by Hyundai on a recall”

“regular oil changes , then i hear a loud knocking by the time i got off the off ramp it was dead and seized”

“Have oil valve problems that were repaired. The next day the rods broke in the engine. That was the middle of March 2017. At this time I am still waiting for the engine to be replaced. It may not be done till July. At this time they are paying for my rental car”

“Engine rebuild after engine seized. This was covered under Hyundai's recall”

“Engine recall. Engine being replaced. Have not had car since end of February. Waiting on Hyundai replacement,”

“Engine seized despite good maintenance Hyundai replacing under extended warranty”

“During the past year, between oil changes I noticed the engine oil was extremely low. An engine test was started and it was determined that 1.5 quarts of oil were disappearing every 1000 miles (no residue seen under vehicle when parked). A rebuild or new engine replacement is planned this month”

“The engine was replaced under a Hyundai recall. I didn't have my car for about 2-3 weeks waiting for the engine to arrive at the dealer”

“There was a recall, so I took the car to the dealership, they did the repair, tested the engine. The engine failed, so the engine was completely replaced. Took 7 weeks for me to get my car back, but the dealership provided me w/ a loaner car”

“Engine failure at approximately 90k miles from a manufacturer defect. This was outlined in a recall from Hyundai that a possible failure was possible. Engine block was replaced taking nearly 3 months to complete the process”

“Engine died while on interstate highway. Was towed to dealership. Engine was replaced under warranty. No cost to me”

“their engines suck, engine locked up they replaced it”

“Engine starting making a ticking noise so I took it to the dealer and they are replacing the engine”

“A "SMALL"OIL LEAK AT RRONT OF PAN THEY "cOULD NOT FIND?" led to a siezure at 46.000 miles and poor dealer response or cooperation”

“Our car had rattling sound at 3200 RPM. Took it to dealer and it need a motor. Folsom Lake Hyundai took care of it under warranty. Good service. Curious to see if this was a one year problem because we love our car and would get another”

“Engine had to ne replaced. Piston rods broke”

“Engine suddenly stopped working while getting to freeway speed. would not start or turn over again. Diagnoses: "engine seized". Engine had to be replaced”

“The engine was "eating" oil and finally seized up. We had not choice but to replace it because the car wasn't paid off”

“Check Engine light continuously on. Cylinders were misfiring. Sent egine out to be worked on .Replaced all 4 fuel injectors”

“The engine blew up with 73000 miles. This is a CPO from Hyundai and I had to FIGHT AND FIGHT for 4 weeks to get them to cover the warranty-engine under the 100K powertrain I fought for 15 hours with HMC and there 2nd party warranty comp for the 100K”

“While driving the car suddenly lost power and every light on my dash went on. The car would not drive faster than 5to 10 km per hour and the engine had a lot of vibration. A tow to the dealership resulted in being told that my turbo charger went out of align,ent and needed adjustment”

“I have had 4 issues with the turbo. 3 were issues where it had to be reset/calibrated. The last issue was with the exhaust actuator; is had to be replaced”

“Turbo failed while driving on the interstate and the car could not drive faster than 50 MPH. Took three days to get a new one in. I had been to the dealer a week before to report a strange noise while accelerating and they said it was nothing”

“Hose between engine and cooler broke”

“ENGINE HAD NO POWER, WAS A SENSOR OF SOME KIND”

“Engine lost the turbo charger which means the car was running with far less HP. Was not covered by the warranty even though I thought it was part of the power train”

“car occasionally slipped out of turbo mode. It took three trips to the dealer to have the problem corrected”

“This car was taken back several times because the turbocharger failed. It took more than a year to get the problem solved”

“Car engine loss power and would not go over about 50mph, which I took to the dealer and it was the turbo that needed adjustment”

“Timing belt broke while driving. Vehicle had to be towed 180 miles as I was far from home”

“The compressor failed. I had to replace the compressor . I've never had to replace a compressor on any car I've owned. in the past history of owning cars”

“The compressor would not kick on when the A/C was turned on. There was a bad electrical switch on the compressor that needed to be replaced”

“Bearing went bad, apparently”

“Did not work when first turned on. Instead blew out hot air and took nearly 5 minutes to get cold”

“Compressor quit working but was covered under 100,000 mile warranty with no issues”

“noisy;was replaced under warranty”

“Driver's side automatic climate control stopped working, but passenger side continued to function”

“sometimes it can take up to 5minutes of drive time before a/c will start cooling”

“would not hold temp as set”

“When the outside temperature is over 50 degrees and temp is set at 73 without AC, AC still kicks on. Even when I manually turn on and then off the AC, it still comes back on after several minutes. It is impossible to force the system to just bring in”

“Air flow switch went bad”

“Blower motor has a whinning sound when A/C most of the time”

“only would work on high”

“small part needed to be replaced. It wasn't cooling fast enough”

“Intermittent noise from fan”

“while driving with AC on car will just stop cooling and blowing but fan still makes noise it's as if a damper is shut.after car is stopped and not driven problem goes away very intermittent has happened three times since purchase”

“The fans would not switch between modes”

“dealer replace ac switch”

“Ac unit froze during a trip. Dealer kept car a week and determined the hose from the compressor was leaking. Hose replaced”

“Leaks onto the passenger side floor”

“Entire left rear taillight assembly came off in a car wash”

“Driver's side tail lamp fixture casting came loose, when the anchor bolts tore loose from the car. Casting was replaced free of charge. Faulty casting blamed. I believe it was actually vibration which broke off the anchor bolts”

“bumper...too low to ground,,detached.front..curbs cwE WOULD never BUY ANOTHER”

“Rear bumper was the wrong bumper as it did not have an exhaust hole, not sure if this was the original owner issue or dealership”

“front grill pieces falling off, Both rear tail light assemblies fell out of the car! The plastic bolts that hold them in place just broke off after touching them. Junk!”

“paint is easily chipped on doors and rock chipping on hood. trunk shows signs slight fading”

“Where trunk lid meets body abrasion from improperly fitting parts scrapes the paint off. Dealer painted and it rubbed off again”

“Paint is chipping around roofline over windshield, around trunk lid and edges of doors”

“Car has been painted twice before for paint issues. Paint is now peeling off the roof of car”

“Paint fading and cracking in front of the car and on the hood”

“the trim on the inside around the cup holders is peeling. the steering wheel same thing the paint is fading”

“minor paint bubbling on passenger side above door handle”

“Paint was chipped and stated to peel”

“Paint around the windshield has chipped off, along with paint on the steering wheel has come off and looks cheap”

“Paint clearcoat peeling on spots on hood and RR quarterpanel”

“Just above the windshield I began to have rust. Most cars have a plastic strip, the Sonata's don't have one. It began to rust so I had it repainted. Hyundai wouldn't cover it under warranty”

“Chips in paint leading to a little rust”

“I paid additional for paint protection. I have rust pits on the front hood right next to the chrome on the front. Hyundai refused to repair this, claiming that it was a stone chip. I see no evidence of a stone chip. The paint protection plan is a was”

“Rust has already begun to appear at the top of the windshield. Normal rust spots appearing on hood from stone chips caused from highway driving”

“No one can identify where the rattle or knock is coming from. It only happens sporadically, but is very annoying. If I hit the brakes enough times it eventually goes away for awhile. Spent $300 on a new wheel well that had a hole. We suspected the sound insulation was getting wet and flapping causing the noise. Spent another couple hundred on brake parts, that didn't do it either”

“Steering column coupler(?) broken; steering column rattled over bumps and with turns. I had it fixed (yesterday) by an independent shop--not by the dealer”

“Sunroof rattle”

“Didn't see this as an option but we have to try to start the car twice before it turns over. All connections and battery and starter in good condition. Unknown rattling source”

“As the car ages it has developed a range of annoying sounds, not in any one place but throughout the body”

“Engine rattles on accelleration. Took to dealer three times without solution. Told the last time that it was just normal sounds”

“Dash rattles. Moon roof seal squeaks due to body flex. Engine compartment rattle, probably waste gate shaft”

“Was getting strange chirping from rear. Dealer was unable to diagnose. Another shop correctly diagnosed that the suspension needed to be taken apart an lubed”

“I have an occasional unidentifiable squeak that occurs”

“sounds unsure of the problem”

“Front suspension squeak, sunroof squeak”

“The body integrity is terrible”

“Just a few misc squeaks coming from the car. Not sure what is at fault”

“already discussed this problem”

“very annoying noises”

“Noise is very distracting even at moderate speed”

“The car has been noisy from the start, especially on highways. As it ages, all kinds of highway noise get louder. Engine is also louder, most noticable at lower speeds when it isn't competing with wind and road noise”

“Air leaks around front doors”

“The vehicle has extreme road noise. This issue would cause me to NOT purchase this same vehicle again”

“Oxygen sensor failed and was replaced”

“Hyundai recommends 87 octane fuel for my Hyundai Sonata SE. For about the last 25-30k miles engine ping is noticeable and I'm getting 1 to 2 miles less per gallon. No check-engine light, car has been serviced on schedule and new spark plugs installed but all to no avail. 89 octane seems to lessen the ping”

“Recall - engine fillings inside engine from factory”

“Recall repair on throttle control”

“Engine carbon build-up causes pinging”

“In the past had the oil pan gasket replaced because of a leak. Repair was covered under warrenty”

“Burning oil quickly undetected/undiagnosed leak at this time. Repairs have not been made”

“Oil leak in the turbo line; repaired under warranty”

“My car developed a bad smell of raw gas inside the cabin of the vehicle whenever I started it and warmed it up. When I took it to the dealership they advised that the problem was a combination of an oil leak with the timing cover, which given the design of the engine, also required changing the oil pan gasket as well and a computer programming upgrade. $1000 later at the dealership the repairs were made”

“Sonata has started to burn over 2 quarts of oil between 5,000 oil changes. However, what is odd there is no evidence of oil leak on driveway or on garage floor. Have had dealership perform consumption test. No clear Hyundai solution provided unless engine has seized. Have read that Hyundai enginners knew metal scrap left in engine had caused problems in Alabama plant new 2011 and 2012 models”

“The oil pan has a leak that was noticed at about 100,000 miles”

“Oil pan was leaking , was repaired under warranty by dealer. Less than 12months later had same problem. Was repaired by independent shop who reported seal was not properly done before”

“noticing oil leak from engine on ground in morning”

“They discovered a small leak around the oil pan. They resealed the oil pan at no cost to me. Vehicles had to left overnight”

“OIL PLUG GASKET”

“The 2011 Sonata has nearly continuous oil leaks and did early on. We get them repaired and mechanics just keep finding more. I think there may be a serious design flaw here”

“My automatic transmission is subject to "slippage" if I accelerate too quickly”

“When cold outside < 32 degrees the trans. will sometimes shift poorly/clunk from first to second gear. It's like it's not sure which gear it's in. The dealer replaced a temp sensor and it helped a little but didn't totally fix the issue”

“Acceleration issues with the transmission not engaging like it used to. I have to be very careful to slowly accelerate to avoid slippage”

“Was not communicating with engine”

“The transmission sensor went out 150 miles over warranty. Cost over $500 to repair, and dealer would not cover”

“Failed to shut off due to erroneous "not in park" shifter position detection. Electronics module replaced during second repair attempt which corrected the problem”

“Sensor failed intermittently. Vehicle occasionally would not shift gears properly. Sensor was replaced at dealership service center”

“Computer sensor for transmission was causing the vehicle to shift abruptly and the Yellow Hazard light was constantly on”

“May have been replaced as part of shifter detection problem”

“failure to upshift correctly. mileage dropoff”

“Turbo wastegate solenoid needed replacing at 90,000 miles at a cost of around $600 at a dealership. Car operated safely but turbo would not kick it, which caused problems when trying to operate at highway speeds”

“Speed sensor inside transmission was intermittently failing and causing rough shifting. Took many visits to the dealership before it was resolved”

“sensor was replaced”

“The check engine light came on and the car jerked into gear. After that it wasn't shifting smoothly like it should. I took it in and was told the sensor went bad. The transmission had to be drained for this repair”

“master cylinder went kaput. Under warranty, everything repaired and clutch replaced, cost nothing”

“Fuel gauge sender stopped working. Therefore no gauge. Needs replacement”

“Fuel gauge would jump around showing empty when full. Dealer said I would have to pay since it had just gone out of warranty period. I complained saying that this is something that should be considered abnormal but dealer said unless I could get manufacturer to pay he had to charge me. I did not pursue with manufacturer”

“Fuel gauge occasionally (!!!) showed far different readings even within a few miles”

“Furl gauge dial would erratically go from full to much less, eventually to empty. As time went on, was more and more frequent. Had car into dealer twice, but it wasn't happening at the time, so they found "nothing wrong". Finally it went to empty and”

“Fuel Guage does not register somtimes. I can fill it up and the next morning it might read less than 1/4 full. Dealership has looked at it twice with no conclusion”

“check engine light will not go off”

“Fuel gauge is erratic. Started during warranty maybe happening once every month, dealer could never replicate. Just outside of warranty it no longer works at all, dealer will not warranty despite history of problem during warranty and a TSB on it”

“Low pressure pump quit. Advised the high pressure pump usually goes soon after and total cost will be $1300”

“I had the fuel pump replaced - twice”

“numerous problems with sensor on brake pedal that has to be depressed in order to use push button start feature. also had other sensor issues (unkown) that were in some of the numerous recalls”

“MAP sensor failure”

“check engine light”

“Engine not running correctly. Took to dealer and they replace the O2 sensor and did not charge because I was just inside the warranty limit by date”

“On at least six separate occurrences, on a rainy day, a sensor goes out and turns the engine off while I am driving”

“It is actually the hybrid system; but you do not provide a box for this. It has failed to start 12 different times since July 2013. Each time it went into a Hyundai shop for service. The last three service calls lasted 13 days, 35 days, and 14 days”

“CV joint was making a grinding noise. Went to a mechanic who asked a friend at the dealership - friend said that if it was going bad, you better replace both because they're having a problem with them”

“CV joint ( axle shaft) making noise on both sides. They are almost impossible to find in the after market and cost $350 each plus installation”

“Boyfriend heard a low rattle. took it in under warranty and the cv joints had to be replaced”

“Seat belt retractor passenger front wasn't working properly. There was a recall, and it was fixed”

“driver side seatbelt does not retract properly”

“I have problem of paint on thiese area, and i have to adjust the tail gate”

“I had a windshield crack from the top with no visible other damage. the service manager scratched his pen into the crack and said "see a rock did it" and refused to cover it under warranty. the crack was about 18" long”

“Squeaks”

“Transmission was not shifting properly, missing a gear. The car was under the manufacturer's warranty. The first replacement transmission was a rebuilt unit which also failed within weeks and replaced with a new unit. The second replacement has been”