Mazda 3 Change Vehicle

“compressor froze up”

“Stopped blowing cold air intermittently. My local mechanic put a die in it to watch the problem. Later replaced the compressor”

“The Air conditioning does not work because of the cost involved and the poor remaining value of the car”

“had to be replaced at cost of $1300.00”

“A/C from new was barely adequate. Within the last year the A/C stopped working completely”

“AC compressor cycles continuously, even if AC is turned off. Multiple retailer attempts to fix failed. I gave up; will never buy another Mazda!”

“The bearing of the A/C Compressor failed and I had to replaced the whole compressor because only the clutch costed more than the full compressor”

“Noise, no cooling. Covered by extended warranty”

“Compressor seized over the winter months when not used for several months. Car had 140,000 miles”

“blower motor failure made all climate systems inoperative. had to remove entire dashboard to replace - approx. $700”

“Blower Motor Failed Completly. Had to have replaced”

“Would not cool...leaked”

“cracked hose - lost refrigerent”

“Heater just stopped working”

“Driver's side headlight needed to be replaced”

“Leaking in headlight assembly caused failure of low-beam ballast and Xenon bulb. $1200 repair”

“burns through headlights every few months”

“The right headlight burned out and had to be replaced”

“The motors for the locks on my driver and front passenger doors had to be replaced. Would no longer operate with keyless entry”

“All four tpms components fell out of the wheel while driving. Each one at separate times”

“we bought 4 new tires. on installation, 2 of the 4 tire pressure sensors failed”

“Continual problems with TPMS system since purchase. New monitors (2nd generation) help but not all four have been replaced yet”

“My wipers, in the off position, stop at about a 45 degree angle on the windshield. This happened after a recall on the wiper motor which I had serviced by the dealership. I did not return because I do not like dealerships. It took forever to get the work done while I waited mostly because they insist on checking out the whole car, I assume, in an attempt to "alert" me of any other issues with the car. As long as they work, my mechanic told me to just live with it. Pro: I can more easily fi”

“Wipers stopped in a downpour. Dealer while fixing damaged body and trim in three places requiring a weeks worth of body work”

“I have changed the front wipers several times but they are extremely noisy when in use. The noise isn't from the motor it is from the wipers as they swipe across the windshield”

“Interior lights go on by themselves once the car is started”

“Passenger airbag light is on, I feel that the sensor in the seat is going bad. It is an intermittent problem and will get it checked at my next oil change”

“Check engine light came on since wire connecting to mass air flow sensor broke at the connecting terminal”

“Required replacement after problems with car's forward movement after stopping -- the RPM gauge would speed up, but car wouldn't immediately move”

“Clutch required replacement earlier than expected -- only 40,000 miles”

“Clutch worn down - could tell by increased rpm's at all speeds. Probably our fault”

“clutch failed”

“I believe my clutch problems were due to my own sloppy driving habits. I KNOW that when I am stopped at a light or otherwise I should NOT keep my foot on the clutch. I should put it in neutral and take foot off of clutch. My bad”

“Total failure of clutch; also required flywheel resurface. $1170 all in after less than 25,000 miles. Dealer said not uncommon, but offered no help. Internet discussion groups suggest Maz3 manual tranny failures at less than 35,000 miles are freque”

“Near returned with stif shifting”

“Got 160k miles out of original clutch! Can not ask for anything more from a clutch”

“Transmission slipped, shifted roughly and would get stuck in various gears”

“Car went into "limp" mode and would not get out of 3rd gear. I had to have the second gear band in the transmission replaced for $1500”

“A clunking/rattle that emanates from the rear of the car. I've replaced shocks, struts and end links, however the rattle still persists”

“wear and tear normal doing 1000 km a week”

“Front passenger seat seat belt receiver squeaks sometimes when a passenger is in the seat. Easily fixed with a bit of lithium grease”

“Rear noise of something banging against something else, stops when brakes applied and is inconsistent. Sounds like metal:metal and reminiscent of childhood card in bicycle spokes”

“The cost of repairs is high”

“Interior parts squeak / creak together. noticing squealing from the engine, may be belt or pulley”

“Several squeaks - seat and some other place we cannot find”

“The same front passenger seat squeaks over bumps when unoccupied”

“rear Shock absorber seems to be defectuous (noise) even if i already change them 2 years ago”

“Cracked”

“The engine mount was broken due to a pot hole. Had to replace the tire as well”

“Have replaced engine mounts twice”

“Too much of engine vibration even after changing engine mounts”

“I need to add a quart of engine oil every 600 miles”

“One of the engine mounts was cracked and oil was leaking from it”

“Normal wear”

“Very difficult to diagnose what was wrong with the computer, etc. from the diagnostic codes! Cost big bucks”

“as prior, same issue”

“The engine stopped running. Fuel pump needs replacing”

“car kept stopping”

“Defective oxyg¿ sensor”

“$535 to fix 'Evaporative Emission System Leak Detection Pump Sense Circuit Low'”

“Evap leak detection pump had to be replaced”

“Upstream oxygen sensor read out of range. Replaced myself”

“Engine warning light goes on. To dealer, electronic check $1700 to fix, didn't. Drove away, light goes off, engine fine no light for past year!”

“Dealer told me there was an issue with the transmission that would require a replacement, but there was not a recall, therefore I would have to pay for the replacement”

“Has to replace the transmission control module”

“Check engine light went on; vehicle drove very slowly. Dealer replaced transmission control module and reprogrammed it”

“Started the car one morning (May of 2014) and experienced a slight lurch. When I attempted to engage the transmission, something was obviously wrong. It turned out to be an $800 transmission control module. The transmission itself was not damaged”

“Transmission cover rusted and was dripping”

“automatic transmission gear shifter got stuck--first mechanic couldn't fix; second mechanic replaced solenoid-expensive, but it worked”

“Shifter subassembly failure. Unnecessarily integrated part failed and therefore required full subassembly purchase. Meant a $400 repair for what should have been a $10 part if it weren't foolishly and cheaply integrated”

“The transmission wouldn't go into park. Lubricating selector mechanism took care of problem. On hard rain sometimes transmission would not go into 4th gear or shift right. You had to go into manual shift to make it work. Problem was water getting in”

“12V System Battery failed voltage test at most recent oil change and was replaced with 11 months left on its warranty”

“Battery voltage was low, needed to be replaced”

“Needed new spark plugs and throttle body cleaning”

“Starter failed at 70500, a month after the clutch failed. (The replacement failed as well, but second replacement started was installed a no cost)”

“weak starts increased, eventually required replacement of starter”

“6 disk changer jammed and unUSble”

“CD would not release from player. Talked to another person who experienced same problem (Bose CD system)”

“stopped working”

“Complete failure of the Bose 6 CD changer”

“One front speaker failed, not covered by warranty. I replaced both”

“Failed and required replacement plus a cooling system flush and fill”

“Repair require to leak on side of engine. As I recall they use a plastic housing (cover) over the area where leak occur. Finally used my extended Warranty before it expired”

“Something internal went on engine and cause valve damage and had to replace engine”

“Constant jamming unable to open or close still occurred after new window installed”