Mazda 3 Change Vehicle

"I had the A/C compressor replaced in Oct 2015 with 16,800 miles on the car. It failed again (along with the condenser) in April 2016 with 17,400 miles. The second failure was on parts warranty but I had to pay for labor and for the condenser"

"just stopped working, I have another one that has exactly the same issue"

"compressor froze up"

"Stopped blowing cold air intermittently. My local mechanic put a die in it to watch the problem. Later replaced the compressor"

"The Air conditioning does not work because of the cost involved and the poor remaining value of the car"

"The compressor stopped working and was replaced."

"the belt broke and the entire AC seized and threw metal shavings into the system and the whole thing needed to be replaced"

"A/C died 3 years ago, dealership says it needs a new A/C Compressor, Condenser, Evaporator and a refill of refrigerant. $3K"

"had to be replaced at cost of $1300.00"

"A/C from new was barely adequate. Within the last year the A/C stopped working completely"

"AC compressor cycles continuously, even if AC is turned off. Multiple retailer attempts to fix failed. I gave up; will never buy another Mazda!"

"The bearing of the A/C Compressor failed and I had to replaced the whole compressor because only the clutch costed more than the full compressor"

"Noise, no cooling. Covered by extended warranty"

"Compressor seized over the winter months when not used for several months. Car had 140,000 miles"

"blower motor failure made all climate systems inoperative. had to remove entire dashboard to replace - approx. $700"

"Blower Motor Failed Completly. Had to have replaced"

"Would not cool...leaked"

"A/C died 2 years ago, replaced entire system (compressor, condenser, etc) except evaporator, System worked for 2 years and now evaporator has to be replaced. Cost is almost $2000, will get rid of the car rather than spend that."

"Had to replace burnt out LED"

"Had to replace a cracked thermometer that was causing a coolant leak which would overheat the engine and cause my cabin heater to stop working as well."

"Had to replace thermostat"

"Heater just stopped working"

"cracked hose - lost refrigerent"

"It started as a small leak that just got bigger with time. The leak appears to be somewhere in the dashboard so it's not worth fixing (i.e. the fix will cost more than the car is worth). The car is black so on hot sunny summer day, it's not drivable."

"ABS failed. Mazda paid for repair on goodwill warranty even though past actual warranty"

"When making a hard right turn on a uphill grade the brakes grind. I had same condition before and after a complete brake job. I mechanic resurfaced my rotors and the problem still exists. I believe it is a problem with the design. Online searches show this is prevalent on this year and model of Mazda 3"

"Front calipers had to be replaced due to a groove which prevented them seating properly when released"

"One caliper stuck so badly that the car vibrated and cut down on acceleration. Another caliper is starting to stick."

"I had to replace, on all disc brake pads and rotors. Calipers were fine. I can't complain. They had 75000 miles on them. However, after replacing them with original Mazda parts and getting the car back from the Mazda dealer, one of the calipers almos"

"The master cylinder failed. The repair shop could not properly diagnose the issue, and replaced the master cylinder multiple times"

"The brakes have a recurring problem of making a strange noise, then failing. Has been tested extensively by mechanics, the solution is to drive at about 30 MPH and slam on the breaks. This resets something and they are then fine for awhile."

"No symptoms, just routine wear patterns necessitated replacement"

"This is not really a problem other than it costing hundreds of dollars to have rotors and pads replaced"

"Required front and rear rotors and pads. My mileage is very low but consists of many short trips, limited highway driving"

"Brakes need to be changed more frequently. Very difficult to remove brakes to change. Now grinding with brake application again"

"Brakes vibrated when braking at high speed"

"The dealer changed the brakes and installed the wrong shoes"

"The problem lies with both the rotor and calipers that I previously described. Rotors and calipers grind when braking on a right turn on an uphill grade"

"Normal wear for rear rotors. They were the original rotors and lasted over 8 years and 75000 miles"

"The rotors have been replaced 3 times on the car since purchased. Constantly warping"

"Had brakes replaced, and the car squeals when backing up. It is unusually loud"

"Brakes started with squeaking. Then developed grinding. Brakes very hard to change"

"Brakes squeak always when the temperature is below 80 and humid, even after changing brake pads"

"Incorrect purge flow is being sensed and NOBODY can seem to find the problem; $800 later and the CEL is still on"

"as prior, same issue"

"Dashboard warning light Check Engine goes on. The gas cap must be replaced with a Cdn$50 cap from Mazda. 3rd party gas caps don't work. For such a high price, the cap is surprisingly short-lived, on the order of 12-18 months. It's annoying and feels like Mazda is overcharging me for repeated replacement of what should be (and usually is) a lifetime part."

"Fuel cap requires roughly annual replacement with a Mazda part at $50/time. Off-brand items are much cheaper, but don’t work (Check engine light remains on). Expensive & annoying - fuel caps are usually more durable."

"The engine stopped running. Fuel pump needs replacing"

"Crack on top of the fuel pump connection to the fuel hose in the gas tank."

"The engine light came on and I drove to the dealer."

"The engine light came on and I drove to the dealer."

"car kept stopping"

"Defective oxyg¿ sensor"

"$535 to fix 'Evaporative Emission System Leak Detection Pump Sense Circuit Low'"

"Front O2 sensor failed. Local shop and dealership both had trouble diagnosing, car was with the dealer for almost 2 weeks."

"Evap leak detection pump had to be replaced"

"Upstream oxygen sensor read out of range. Replaced myself"

"Engine warning light goes on. To dealer, electronic check $1700 to fix, didn't. Drove away, light goes off, engine fine no light for past year!"

"The clutch blew out on this vehicle even though it doesn't have much mileage on it"

"within 1 week experienced difficulty accelerating up steeper hills. subtle in the beginning as I thought it was my new shoes that I didn't have the timing on the clutch release and gas accelerator. A couple days later it became obvious it was not my new shoes. The next day it happened more frequently, including on level ground not just hills, until I could no longer accelerate up a long steady hill. AAA to the rescue. Arundel Ford in Maine gave excellent service. $800 and it was back on the road."

"Required replacement after problems with car's forward movement after stopping -- the RPM gauge would speed up, but car wouldn't immediately move"

"Clutch required replacement earlier than expected -- only 40,000 miles"

"Clutch worn down - could tell by increased rpm's at all speeds. Probably our fault"

"clutch failed"

"I believe my clutch problems were due to my own sloppy driving habits. I KNOW that when I am stopped at a light or otherwise I should NOT keep my foot on the clutch. I should put it in neutral and take foot off of clutch. My bad"

"Total failure of clutch; also required flywheel resurface. $1170 all in after less than 25,000 miles. Dealer said not uncommon, but offered no help. Internet discussion groups suggest Maz3 manual tranny failures at less than 35,000 miles are freque"

"Near returned with stif shifting"

"Got 160k miles out of original clutch! Can not ask for anything more from a clutch"

"Engine light came on. Transmission replaced. Light still came on. Had to go to a dealership and have a transmission control module replaced."

"Transmission slipped, shifted roughly and would get stuck in various gears"

"Car went into "limp" mode and would not get out of 3rd gear. I had to have the second gear band in the transmission replaced for $1500"

"Rattle has developed in rear of car on driver side"

"A clunking/rattle that emanates from the rear of the car. I've replaced shocks, struts and end links, however the rattle still persists"

"wear and tear normal doing 1000 km a week"

"Front passenger seat seat belt receiver squeaks sometimes when a passenger is in the seat. Easily fixed with a bit of lithium grease"

"Rear noise of something banging against something else, stops when brakes applied and is inconsistent. Sounds like metal:metal and reminiscent of childhood card in bicycle spokes"

"The cost of repairs is high"

"Interior parts squeak / creak together. noticing squealing from the engine, may be belt or pulley"

"Several squeaks - seat and some other place we cannot find"

"The same front passenger seat squeaks over bumps when unoccupied"

"rear Shock absorber seems to be defectuous (noise) even if i already change them 2 years ago"

"Age wear, sounds like window doesn’t close all the way."

"Window trim loosened allowing noise, cold and steaming up of driver side window; broken fog lamps cause wind noise to echo through vehicle;"

"Very difficult to diagnose what was wrong with the computer, etc. from the diagnostic codes! Cost big bucks"

"I have had to replace engine mounts several times. Is the dealer ripping me off or is the car poorly constructed with weak engine mounts. I do not know"

"I have had to replace what the dealership described as engine mounts three times and a transmission mount twice--this seems excessive. Either the dealership is lying or the mounts are defective"

"top mount was broken.. had it replaced by using aftermarket warranty I bought from the dealer when I bought the car"

"Front right hydraulic engine mount is leaking fluid. According to the blogs this is a common problem. According to Mazda this is not an issue, please go away now"

"Cracked"

"The engine mount was broken due to a pot hole. Had to replace the tire as well"

"Have replaced engine mounts twice"

"Too much of engine vibration even after changing engine mounts"

"I need to add a quart of engine oil every 600 miles"

"One of the engine mounts was cracked and oil was leaking from it"

"Leakage inside car"

"The automatic gear shift lever refused to move out of Park. Had to override using small tool. After part replacement, it worked just fine. I had 170,000 miles on the car at that point, so something was bound to happen--otherwise, this is a great little car. The main issue on a Mazda 3 is the headlights-they constantly burn out. No one knows why"

"Dealer told me there was an issue with the transmission that would require a replacement, but there was not a recall, therefore I would have to pay for the replacement"

"Has to replace the transmission control module"

"Needed to replace the transmission control module"

"Transmission computer was replaced under warranty by dealer"

"Check engine light went on; vehicle drove very slowly. Dealer replaced transmission control module and reprogrammed it"

"Started the car one morning (May of 2014) and experienced a slight lurch. When I attempted to engage the transmission, something was obviously wrong. It turned out to be an $800 transmission control module. The transmission itself was not damaged"

"Transmission cover rusted and was dripping"

"automatic transmission gear shifter got stuck--first mechanic couldn't fix; second mechanic replaced solenoid-expensive, but it worked"

"12V System Battery failed voltage test at most recent oil change and was replaced with 11 months left on its warranty"

"Battery voltage was low, needed to be replaced"

"Needed new spark plugs and throttle body cleaning"

"Tip of spark plug actually broke off and was lodged in cylinder causing extreme engine noise and engine issues. Car had to be towed. Was told my mechanic car has major issues and needed to be junked. Additional troubleshooting by my husband uncovered spark plug issue. After adding Lukons oil additive to engine spark plug piece appears to have been blown out exhaust and car is back to running but not 100% normal."

"Starter failed at 70500, a month after the clutch failed. (The replacement failed as well, but second replacement started was installed a no cost)"

"weak starts increased, eventually required replacement of starter"

"stopped working"

"Complete failure of the Bose 6 CD changer"

"Didn't come on when car was started. Was fine the next time car was started"

"Tuning for satellite radio is extremely erratic, and sometimes does not work at all. Bast/treble control has stopped working"

"Base/treble settings fluctuate by themselves. AM radio is strongly affected by electrical wires. Poor quality radio/sound equipment"

"One front speaker failed, not covered by warranty. I replaced both"

"Radiator went bad, had to replace."

"Check engine light came on. Auto mechanic checked computer and said thermostat needed to be replaced"

"Engine light is on. Initial check seems to point to a thermostat problem. Will know more in a few days when service center works on it"

"Failed and required replacement plus a cooling system flush and fill"

"The trim on the windows has dry rotted. And the driver side window gets stuck regularly so it won't go down at all."

"Constant jamming unable to open or close still occurred after new window installed"

"Turbo charger leaked oil into the exhaust"