Toyota Camry Change Vehicle

“Mounts replaced”

“had reported minor leaks report during 2 service visits. Decide to get them fixed spring 2016. It took the dealer 3 attempt to fix, making them much worse on the first 2 attempts and the then found another leak which they claimed was very visible but had not been seen before. The fix was expensive and we still feel was a result of actions by the service department”

“Have to put oil in the car every so often”

“Valve cover gaskets needed to be replaced (as per dealer)”

“oil pump seal went bad and leaked oil”

“The car has a healthy appetite for oil at 200000 miles. We have to watch it carefully and add a couple quarts once a month”

“Carburetor cover cracked and needed to be replaced”

“My car has a constant but slow oil leak. There are oil stains on my garage floor”

“Has oil pan leak that will cost several hundred dollars to fix”

“Oil leaks from the engine. I had it fixed twice. But now it's leaking again”

“Problem was resolved. Replaced valve cover gasket”

“Not sure where leak is coming from”

“leaking underside of chassia”

“Must add one quart every 500-1000 miles; cannot park in the drive, must cover garage floor with oil catcher”

“needed to replace power steeringnhose”

“valve cover leaking”

“Have had to replace the valve cover gasket 3 times now and still getting oil leaking”

“leak from the top that can be smelled, but don't want the cost of fixing, since I just drive the car around town and not seriously long trips”

“The valve cover gasket was leaking. The valve cover gasket was replaced and they resealed cam plugs”

“leak from head gasket”

“Oil pan leaks were found by the service technician during routine maintenance”

“Not major, but enough to be noticeable on garage floor”

“Leaks oil under the front of the car”

“the Toyota is actually a 1995 but it wasn't possible to indicate that on the survey. The oil leak is too bad for a 20 year old car that is still running”

“It started a few months ago. It is a slow leak”

“Check engine light came on 2-3 years ago. Ft Myers Toyota unable to find the problem. Said: something to do with pressure. Suggested fuel fill cap & reset check engine light. It soon came on again. Subsequent visits unable to determine the problem. T”

“The onboard computer system 'check engine' stays on due to malfunction of board. Also my 'trac' system has the same problem. My mechanic says not worth replacing due to tremendous cost”

“fuel filler pipe rusted”

“gas reservoir leaked”

“Normal Wear (Mild)”

“Arizona sun has destroyed most of the clearcoat and some of the paint”

“On the hood the paint has been flicking off some places to the metal some to the primer. The clear coat peeled off the trunk scoop or fin ( not sure what is's called. The bumper faded”

“Car is not garaged and is exposed to all weather conditions. Came is 15 years old I have had to use duct tape to keep parts covered and close to each other around the front bumpers”

“I've own three Camrys and they all have poor quality paint that chips easily. I compare my cars with those of friends”

“peeling paint above driver side doors”

“Had car repainted about 5 years ago and is already fading”

“Top layer of the paint is peeling on the roof of the car”

“fading”

“The toyota was repainted entirely”

“Paint discolored where sun hits, bubbles. People say it is too thin. Car was repainted in 2007”

“paint peeling on trunk cover”

“I had car washed & detailed at an off-airport parking service while I was out of town. I've not had problem with washing but the detailing removed big zones of paint. Fault may have been with the detailing rather than the paint itself, but I don't”

“Had to replace the hood due to the paint peeling”

“paint on rear bumper is peeled, cracked and faded. Not concerned as the bumper is plastic base material and won't rust”

“paint peeling”

“The clear coat on both cars is coming off”

“The clear coat has peeled away in a number of different places on the car”

“paint peeling on hood and roof”

“Discoloration on the side of the car”

“Red paint is peeling off on the right side of the car most exposed to sunlight”

“the paint on the front hood/bonnet is cracking and flaking off”

“bottom of passenger door on driver's side rusts from winter salt biuldup”

“Rust at door edges and body around wheels”

“Around the wheel wells, but given the age of the car and where I live (New England) understandable”

“Clear coat came off causing rust around windshield on roof”

“rusting at rear window joints”

“I live in Michigan, salt equal rust, I wash once a week even in winter but car is 15 years old”

“Just starting to rust in the last year,pretty normal for age and milage I think”

“Lights on climate control don't work”

“dash lights for fuel and engine heat are burned-out but gauges work ok”

“Check engine light kept illuminating but mechanic couldn't find the cause”

“The headlights have burned out but were just replaced”

“Had to replace headlight (or taillight--don't remember) several times before mechanic got it right with connecting wire. They said it was very tricky”

“Traced the rear tail/brake lights not working caused by frayed wiring along the left trunk hinge. 16 years of opening and closing the trunk had caused the wiring to crack open”

“~ 2 yrs ago the backup (reverse) lights were staying on all the time, even while the car was moving forward. I was told that this symptom was related to corroded wiring,was fixed by new wiring to that light system, but that did not fix the indicator light that stays on. Needs all the rear wiring replaced”

“THIS CAR IS A 1997 TOYOTA CAMRY. YOUR FORM GAVE NO CHOICE FOR CARS OLDER THAN 2000. Discovered rear tail lights have some damage to the lamp holders causing lights to occasionally fail to light”

“Unknown reason that the tail light comes on”

“The middle brake light is out with a warring light on the dash telling me it's out. It would cost allot to fix light because the whole back seat has to be removed to get to the light. So I have a warring light on my dash all the time because the brak”

“The reverse lights (and rear license plate lights) don't work. It's not the bulbs, so must be something in the wiring. I understand there isn't a fuse associated with the lights”

“Dome light has stopped working several times”

“Dash board lights replaced but went out several months later. Speedometer/heater lamps not affected”

“Interior lights on clock and speedometer failed. Too costly to replace”

“Small head/tail light indicator on dash that should tell me when a light bulb is burnt out. But it stays on even when no bulbs are out. I'm told it is probably corrosion in the wiring of the back end lighting system. Haven't replaced it yet, I just check the old fashioned way by looking if lights are on”

“CHECK ENGINE light is a chronic problem. Have replaced a few expensive items and light continues to return after a few weeks/months. This is all Al Gore's fault... Billions of consumer dollars spent”

“brake light comes on, especially when engine is very cold. Brake specialist says no problem with brakes. Sensor malfunction?”

“Just annoying -- ck engine light is on constantly -- I ignore it”

“The check oil warning light was always on and it is very expensive to repair. Currently, it is disconnected until I can afford to have it repaired and that is of concern. Also, and more importantly, my check engine light keeps coming on and nobody se”

“check engine light will not go out. Mechanic has tested each component part that is monitored by this and all check ok. Our guess is the system running the check engine light is not working correctly”

“lights warning permanently on engine warning frequently on both are false positives - nothing wrong but sensors”

“The warning is on, but will not turn off. The technicians couldn't find a problem with the error code so it is a false positive that won't go away”

“check engine light stays on local repair shop unable to turn it off after engine checks out”

“Cigarette lighter was leaking voltage. Was repaired and a plug installed in it's place”

“river's side exterior door handle replaced”

“driver's side door handle came off when I was trying to open the door”

“One door handle broke off”

“Door handles easily break, inside and outside”

“The front passenger lock doesn't work”

“Interior and exterior latches broke”

“1. Latch holding cover to gas tank broke making it impossible to open so I could fill my tank. 2. Exterior door handle (front passenger door) broke off. Can no longer open door from the outside”

“Out side door handle broke and leaks oil due to being and old engine”

“outside door handles keep braking”

“Driver seat belt will not fasten”

“belts have become loose and do not roll up as they should and get caught in doors”

“power seat on drivers side jammed”

“I've been driving with my toes because the seat is stuck and will not move foward”

“Electrical mechanism making unusual noises opening and closing moonroof/sunroof”

“stopped working, leaks water”

“Rear driver's side window lift motor failed”

“Power window transit”

“The back passenger door window electric motor control failed”

“front window developed cracks from the bottom”

“Rear passenger window would not stay closed”

“The two back power windows no longer work”

“Came out to the parking lot which is large with nothing to hang over cars to find that the back window had totally shattered without falling apart. Of course as I began to drive the glass began falling into the back seat. Stopped, took some safety pr”

“water leak on passenger front side”

“Radiator failed. Plastic on top end of radiator cracked, allowing coolant to escape. Radiator had to be replaced. Cost me about $450 at Broadway Toyota in Portland, OR”

“radiator leak”

“raiator leak due to rust”

“Water leak around sun roof”

“foam has become stiff”

“gasket seal regarding oil leak”

“Rattle in the rear of the car turned out to be a look shield on the exhaust system. Quickly and inexpensively repaired”

“The front underside of the car rattles when the car is moving”

“It has an annoying rattle when driving, replaced shocks and tires. Still rattling”

“rattling noise in the the dash vibration in the engine compartment”

“Rear suspension link needed to be replaced”

“tailgate door”

“SOUNDS AS IF SOMETHING LOOSE IN RADIO-NOT ALWAYS”

“squeaks when car go up down maybe shocks or spring”

“front struts make a knocking noise when you first start driving the car. They have been replaced”

“Rattle sound from a belt that was fixed with lubricant but reappears when weather is wet or damp”

“car certainly rides more noisily than it did when I purchased it 17 years ago. I suppose that is to be expected (yet I can't think of a good reason why that should be so)”

“Increased wind noise when driving. Why now???”

“Right Front brake Caliper was not drifting on glide pins & wore one pad to almost zero. I'd say this is not a Toyota defect... coulda happened to any car”

“brakes failure, because rust on brake pistons inside caliper caused the the brake caliper not to move”

“Front left break locked up while driving after 25 miles. Shook the whole undercarriage and metal parts became red hot”

“seized up, started smoking”

“The rear calipers don't work correctly”

“The car is actually a 1999 model. This selection was not available for selection. Vibration upon breaking lead to finding the calipers were an issue. At 240000 miles this is probably to be expected”

“Driver side front caliper no longer functioning. Will replace both. Rotors on right side now wearing very fast. Will have to replace both calipers, rotors, pads at the same time. Can't complain too much. Over 151K on the original rotors”

“Rear drum brakes continue to have issues, even after rebuilding the rear brake system; brake cylinder, adjuster, brake shoes & hardware”

“Disc brakes not old enough to expect need for new.Toyota said need new ones.Went for 2nd opinion.Was told they wore out due to the rear ones were so far out of adjustment (had been regularly checked at Toyota).Cost $450.Not going back to that dealer”

“Rotors were grooved after 3 years wear and needed to be turned”

“Rotors became scored because calipers seized”

“Needed new break linings”

“Rear brakes were relined”

“Brake pads and rotors needed to be replaced. Rear drums needed to be adjusted”

“Constant issue. Even after having new pads installed the issue returns after a couple of months”

“Replaced Brake pads”

“Rear brake lines needed replaced and pads”

“Brake pads where changed and new rotors installed”

“needed a new a/c unit”

“About 18 months ago, I experienced the engine straining and noise coming from under the hood. It cleared up when I turned off the air conditioner. It turned out to be the compressor”

“compressor no longer functioning”

“AC doesn't work”

“The fan only works in the top two positions (high, medium high)”

“no intermediate fan settings work, just off and high”

“toyotas seem to experience several systemic (ie, I see them all the time; I'm very observant!) problems: drivers-side brake-light failure(s). mine.. are fine, But the (multiple) fan-speed resistor failed and needed replacement. could have been worse”

“Blower only works on highest setting”

“I recently needed to add freon to my air conditioning unit”

“leaks through hose connction”

“A /C repair shop put 2 cans in the system that lasted roughly 2 weeks. Scheduled to install new system”

“Condenser has a leak and because of that the A/C unit doesn't generate any cold air”

“Wasn't an issue as the battery lasted 14 years before failure”

“I have had to replace the coils twice and there still seems to be a problem”

“engine started running bad found bad fuel distributer at one cylinder and bad coil at another cylinder”

“Daughter drives this toyota at Missouri university approx 120 miles away from me. Since I was not there I told her to take it to the dealer. One spark plug wire was bad. The ended up replacing spark plugs , spark plug wires, and a fuel injection cleaning to the tune of around 689 dollars. I feel they took advantage of her and me as I played the bill”

“When the Camry had its scheduled maintenance the spark plugs were replaced and the oem spark plug wires were replaced by dealer. One of the sparkplug wires was broken when I checked it. The seals were replaced by dealers and I had them checked were”

“when I took it to dealership they indicated the wrong plugs were installed previously”

“Starter failed and had to be replaced”

“Internal short that ran down the battery”

“Car just stopped on road”

“Starter motor had to be replaced”

“Intermittent trouble starting over about 3 months. Frequency increased from occasional to relatively common at which time the starter was replaced. No problems since”

“Extreme overheating, which I drove on because I had to get to a safe place. Ended up replacing entire cooling system. Car still slightly overheats when it idles in traffic, unless I have the air conditioning fan on. Can't figure it out. Mechanic useless. My brother had to figure it out. Compression leak down test showed that engine cylinders were ok, but not great. Car is getting me to work and back without trouble now, but I have to worry about hot days in traffic”

“Fluid leak on garage floor determined to be from radiator when under pressure. Radiator and coolant engine hoses were replaced. Turns out the new radiator was defective and needed to be replaced again without additional cost”

“Crack in radiator Replaced the radiator”

“had to have it replaced, it was cracked”

“Radiator leak on in the upper portion of the radiator”

“had to replace it in last 3 months”

“Typical wear and tear. This vehicle does a lot of short trip, so no surprise the thermostat needed changing. (It was not closing fully, so the engine was taking too long to reach operating temperature”

“Problem was the engine running too cool. Thermostat not operating correctly”

“Car started overheating, which it had never done before; the problem turned out to be the failing water pump”

“The water pump seized ( or froze up )”

“Whenever timing belt is changed, the water pump should be replaced as well”

“failure of head gasket required replacement”

“2 years ago, oil began dripping on to garage floor. Oil was never low on oil changes. Finally got tired of cleaning it and took it in. Head gaskets. Fixed for $800”

“Parts are very expensive for Toyota. I've had problems with the power steering pump and leaks (replaced three times) and the head gasket (they want $480 to fix a tiny leak) due to the amount of work involved in replacing the gasket”

“The timing belt failed. Had not replaced the belt ever. No damage to valves”

“An engine noise that was originally believed to be the air conditioner compressor turned out to be a problem with the timing belt. Although the mileage was low for timing belt the age of the car probably contributed to the need for replacement”

“Had to replace the timing belt with a standard kit that required changing twice in less than 12,000 miles”

“Timing belt broke just after the recommended change interval. It had been on the car for 8 years in extreme driving conditions (Phoenix, AZ)”

“timimg belt, replaced”

“Not really a problem. Actually had the oil pump seal leaking so decided to have the timing belt done at the same time”

“had a number of leaks and trouble repairing all leaks”

“lines leaked and had to be repleaced”

“Cable from shift selector to transmission broke and had to be replaced”

“A speed sensor started malfunctioning causing the transmission to not shift properly. That problem started the another temp/pressure sensor pump to messed up. result rebuild transmission”

“All Toyota make slug in the transmission & engine. Just before it is time to change the oil the trans starts to slip. Toyota made these engines & trans for over 10 years. I will never buy another Toyota again”

“I got a warning light on the dash, so I took the car to a Toyota dealer for diagnosis and repair”

“the sentra's radio was replaced”

“The radio has developed static”

“Actually, it's more of an ignition switch problem. Very occasionally the key will not turn (even after snapping the steering wheel, emergency, etc.). I've had the switch and the lock replaced (separately) but it has happened once since the last rep”

“Replaced the clutch only once after 110,000 miles”

“Car was gradually losing power over 3-4 months, especially when going up hills. When normally I could ascend a hill in 5th gear (if already at 35 mph), had to downshift to 1st for even the smallest hills. Very happily replaced clutch at 154000”

“The car is old enough to need a new clutch. It was a major job, but while working on the clutch the mechanic also replaced the rear engine seal which was leaking badly”