Toyota Camry Change Vehicle

“It has 2 catalytic converters on a 4 cyl. and both diagnostics claimed that both were a problem. Very expensive to replace both of them”

“The Toyota Dealership said that I needed to replace the catalytic converter, which I did”

“The entire system is in need of replacing with an estimated cost of $2100”

“failed”

“Pipes rusted, and repair required a new catalytic converter”

“Leaky exhaust where the the pipe meets teh engine”

“Leak in manifold”

“crossover pipe rusted through.$400”

“replaced leaking flex connector to manifold. Had it welded in by a good shop after getting several quotes calling for replacement of piping and catalytical converter from dealers and other shops who quoted $2000 - to $2500. I paid $500. None of the”

“just had it tightened up when in for pipe replacement”

“loose shield that dealer wanted to replace entire system. indie shop reattached the loose shield”

“Holes noisy”

“Muffler leaked so badly and roared so loudly that replacement was necessary, but then the new muffler was soon showing signs of corrosion and even with new pipes the roaring noise returned. Nice car all around but exhaust system was a real problem and costly to maintain”

“broken when dealer was fixing oil leaks”

“Front flex pipe replaced”

“Needed to replace exhaust system”

“pipes were just worn out, replaced part for $50. from a non Toyota mechanic”

“Flex pipe from manifold replaced”

“Pipes from engine to catalytic converter rattled and corroded and needed replacement. To do that, the CC needed replacement, too”

“Corrosion in many areas of the pipes, which caused leaks and produced roaring noises, Entire exhaust system needed replacement including the muffler”

“Paint is fading and pealing on the hood and front fender”

“Clear coat on hood, roof and truck lids peeled off. Spent $1,300 to re surface the affected area and repaint”

“Serious delamination of paint around all windows”

“The paint was a problem since the first day we bought the car. I took it to a couple of paint shops to see if they thought there was some issues with the paint from the factory. I took it to the Toyota dealer too with the same issue. The paint”

“PAINT STARTED FADING ABOUT 5 YEARS AGO. ALL TOYOTA'S SEEM TO HAVE BAD PAINT”

“Peeling paint was constant, particularly on the hood”

“Dark blue car, paint faded on rear bumper”

“The clear coat is peeling off”

“My outside top of care is badly peeling paint and now the trunk is also doing that. The cost for repair of this is too high for me to take care of it now but I need to do it at some point. I now also have a driver side mirror that is detached after I touched it lightly at a bank drive through. It will cost me far too much to repair. I have gone to 3 different places and the Toyota dealer was the most expensive. Toyota parts are VERY expensive which is one of the bad parts of them. However, my ca”

“Paint spot-peeling on roof top”

“Primer exposed on roof”

“Peeling paint on hood and roof. Cars is parked in driveway, never in the garage”

“I bought the car new. About two years ago(2015) the clear coat began to fail. Then the paint on the hood bubbled of and started peeling. I took the car to a reputable paint shop and they told me the hood had been repainted. I said I never had any paint work done on the car , and he responded that the dealer must have repaired some damage to the hood before I purchased it. This was never disclosed to me at the time. Since the car was 14 years old at the time the problem materialized I never both”

“Paint, color Cashmere Beige Metallic, faded on top surfaces”

“Paint and rust area in a couple of locations”

“Entire car repainted due to failing paint and resulting rust spots”

“POS”

“Same door where window cable replaced. Rust followed the peeling and paint problem”

“Rust at the top of the windshield, such that a cracked windshield cannot be replaced”

“Plastic molding on driver seat adjustment no longer attaches to mechanism, carpet detaching, removing electrical adapter from cigarette lighter causes entire plastic molding of console to detach”

“Items discovered doing service oil change. Issue was noted on work order sheet about a month ago, but have not return auto to service department (Principle Toyota Dealership) for leaks fixture as of date”

“small drip from power steering oil pump, needs to be replaced for second time”

“rear struts are clunking and need to be changed”

“Had to replace both the front and rear shock s and struts which cost about $1,000”

“Struts are shot, ride is "boat like", but we've left them alone”

“replaced four struts”

“Rattle in rear when going over bumps. Diagnosis: worn rear struts. Had them replaced”

“it was normal wear and tear but it was expensive”

“Front strut broke and rubbed against tire causing burning rubber smell”

“Needed to replace because of wear and tear: front and back”

“Needs new shocks”

“Front struts needed to be replaced”

“Leakage in shocks”

“Front and rear struts were worn out at 145,000 miles”

“Increase in front end vibration led to replacement of trans-axles which solved the problem”

“I had part of the suspension replaced, but the alignment kept going out after about 5000 miles, and I was buying new tires twice a year”

“Ignition lock wore out and key would stick in the ignition switch”

“The clock no longer lights up. The fuse was checked. That wasn't the problem.At the same time, the cigarette lighter has no power to charge my Tracfone”

“Speedometer stopped working”

“I now have two malfunctioning indicator lights. The check engine gauge has had issues for years due to a faulty gas tank sensor. Lately, the headlight indicator goes on and off randomly. No connection to whether the headlights are on”

“Cracked headlight and turn signal light out”

“Bulb replacement”

“replaced both head light assemblies for being faded”

“The plastic of the headlight shells had become very cloudy and was making driving very difficult at night due to the defused light. A headlight restoration kit was used to improve them, but they're not close to being as clear as they were new”

“just normal burn outs”

“tail lights wiring in trunk caused short circuit and blew control fuse, so that there were no working lights at night, except brake lights were ok”

“lamp in spoiler”

“Short on door light switch that drained battery”

“Lost program, estimated $400 to find problem and reprogram”

“All the problems happened because my 12V plug shorted and burned out the wires behind the dashboard. $800.00 and only part of the problems were fixed”

“check engine light comes on occasionally”

“Check engine light indicates Knock Sensor is faulty”

“Eng. warning light required maintance”

“Wiper wouldn't operate sometimes. Motor had to be replaced”

“door handle broke off, unable to open the door from the outside. Significant safety issue and it cost over $200 to fix”

“front door latches broke on both sides”

“the lock on the driver's side wouldn't work”

“On one particularly cold day, when I reached for the door handle, the handle broke in half:( It was a rather expensive item to replace. Also, not sure if I categorized it correctly, but I needed to replace something (I forget what it's called) in”

“Driver's side door handle broke”

“Driver's door handles, both inside and out, broken. Also, driver's door does not lock other than manually”

“Interior driver's door latch completely broke. Exterior passenger front door latch broke off”

“Window would not go up and down. New cable installed and subsequently seemed to bring about unsightly peeling paint and rust on bottom edge of door”

“electric window motors replaced”

“the automatic window motor failed. I was not able to get my window up once it had been wound down”

“The driver's window doesn't always go back up and must be hand lifted while button is in position to lift it. I don't dare lower it now”

“if you scroll the window down all the way, it is electric & you have to keep activating the control 4 or 5 times to close it as it only move 2 or 3 inches at a time”

“Both front electric windows failed, and repairs are very expensive”

“WINDOW ON DRIVERS SIDE (POWER WINDOWS) SOMETIMES WILL NOT GO BACK UP”

“water accumulates in trunk lining, drips into trunk when opened”

“worn drivers door bottom inside weather seal. caused by getting in and out of the car”

“Heavy rain in California this winter. Seals seem to have failed”

“Had some clunking nopises in the front end. Service people told me they couldn't find anything mechanically wrong”

“Rattle in front passenger area (sounds like frame possibly) when car is cold; decreases or goes away when car has been driven about 20 miles or so”

“Intermittent periods of noise from the front, right wheel area. No one has been able to diagnose the problem, but at times, the noise is loud, irritating and sounds unsafe even if it isn't”

“Rattling from loose side light fixtures (passenger side)”

“struts, support”

“Wind noise coming from the front passenger door”

“Windows don't appear to seal properly”

“replaced 2 oxygen sensors”

“bought car with ruined engine.My husband replaced the engine and it is running fine”

“Engine locked up and blew after A/C compressor replacement”

“Original engine overheated and warped the cylinder head. Bought and installed a used low-mileage engine from a salvage yard”

“It was starting to leak oil. It was an old car, doing mostly city driving. Not bad after 13 years of no problems!”

“have had to replace 3 times in the last 2 years. mechanic does not know why”

“replace head gasket twice”

“I mentioned the Head gasket, but was really referring to the seal problem”

“Timing belt had to be replaced due to other problems in the car”

“no problem - time to change”

“squirrel was caught in drive belt to timing belts and broke/shattered PLASTIC drive belt cover plate resulting in damage to timing belts. Toyota said road hazard no responsibility. BS this was poor material selection its a design issue”

“It only works on the highest setting”

“Had to replace evaporator as it was leaking”

“gradual leakage of refrigerant, a nuisance more than a serious concern”

“One of the refrigerant pipes had a leak”

“6 inch crack in radiator-needed replacing”

“The starter had to be replaced this year”

“rotted out and had to be replaced”

“Cd ejector didn't shut off properly, running the battery down”

“Radio / CD blew a fuse. It's not in one of the three normal fuse boxes”

“CV joint boot had torn. Replaced drive axle with a rebuilt unit”

“Axle made car wobble and was noisy. Replacement cured all problems. Not a big deal after so many miles”

“Radiator went bad...had to get it replaced. However, it may have been un-necessary...I used a mechanic I was unfamiliar with...he replaced the radiator. In hind-sight, I wonder if I got ripped-off and if just a gasket or new cap or other minor 'fix' would have been sufficient... Guess I'll never know!!”

“water pump + timing belt replaced Aug 2013. Pump now beginning to leak , needing $500 plus repair”

“has continuous leaks from various seals”

“Trans. fluid leaks about 3 oz. Per day”