Toyota Camry Change Vehicle

“Catalytic converter needed replacement prior to smog inspection”

“Car stays in Connecticut. Exhaust system rusted out”

“The unusually low mileage of the auto caused the whole exhaust system to rust, front to back, so it needed replacement”

“the part that connects the converter to wore out”

“original exhaust system front flex pipe failure. had a new section welded in place. ( By the way, I do not own a second Toyota Camry as indicated in this survey)”

“There was a leak ( a hole?) in the exhaust near the manifold. They, dealer service, recommended replacing the entire exhaust system so that all the connections would fit "perfectly". Toyota part (stainless steel) would cost $1400. Aftermarket (not stainless steel) would cost $900. Because of car age, my age and annual mileage I chose the later”

“The flex coupling had to be replaced due to rusted gap”

“The catalytic converter needs to be replaced when an exhaust leak is detected in the manifold”

“Part of exhaust had rusted and exhaust noise was heard. Had to be replaced”

“Had to replace the flex connection at the cat converter”

“The flexible joint between the exhaust manifold pipe and the next pipe failed due to age. It was replaced by a flanged joint hundreds cheaper than a Toyota flexible joint”

“Had to have the front flex pipe with converter replaced due to exhaust leakage”

“The small section of steel pipe that connects the exhaust manifold/catalytic converter to the aluminum exhaust pipe rusted and leaked; it was noisy and was not deemed safe to pass state inspection. It was replaced”

“had a leak of gasoline entering exhaust at start up. would burn off after the car had started. Required service to correct the problem”

“Replaced valve gaskets - labor intensive, expensive and car was out of service for 6 days”

“muffler worn out”

“Just normal wear for these parts”

“Leak/crack in connecting pipe. Easily fixed by welding in replacement piece”

“Connecting pipe wrap had deteriorated”

“Not sure I consider this a problem, because it is the first issue I've ever had with the exhaust system on this car. The flex pipe between the manifold and the catalytic converter had deteriorated and needed to be replaced. Cost was approximately $800”

“Pipe from manifold to converter rusted and failed”

“Pipe leading to muffler rusted out”

“Through age the painting was badly scratched and peeled”

“Small cracks in paint on hood and some on truck. Had it repainted once . Painter stated it was a problem with some of the 2004 models”

“The clear coat is peeling off”

“All of a sudden, roof and trunk the paint faded in these two areas”

“The paint held up very well for 12 years! But in the last year, it gave up the fight. Still looks ok, but there is some chipping on the roof edges”

“Overall paint on the was OK. But suddenly just over the roof near the windshield area I noticed paint randomly bubbled. First, I thought it might be rain drops. But when I washed the car with the water hose, those bubbles peeled off. Very strange - never happened before”

“Clear coat flaking off”

“bumpers”

“The gloss that is on the car is fine except for the trunk which has dulled and seems faded”

“Paint on roof and rear spoiler are faded reel bad”

“Hood has irregular creaks in paint. Paint needs to be removed and repainted. Possible cause is a single layer of combined paint and sealer”

“"Bald" spot on trunk and on the front part of the hood - paint fading”

“From the moment I noticed the slight cracking of the paint/finish on my roof, to about 30% of the roof cracked was less than a month. I wash my car between weekly and monthly - depending on how it looks (using the upgraded "wax" option in car washes”

“The paint is starting to fade”

“paint peeling off bumpers and fading paint on horizontal surfaces”

“paint is "soft" and scratches/mars easily. It has not held up like paint on other cars I have had. (Mazda, Mercury)”

“Lots of salt used on the roads in this rural northern Michigan long winters. Rust is unfortunately inevitable. Husband has done some minor spot rust repairs. But it is starting to really show more”

“Rust spotting on the rear/trunk of the vehicle”

“Headliner is loose. The back half of headliner is hanging down and partially blocks rear view”

“the fabric that is glued on surface of interior is peeling off badly”

“The chrome colored plastic has peeled off the door handles yielding a white plastic. I was told that it would cost over $400 to fix”

“the car needed a new oill pan as the original was cracked and leaking oil. That has been fixed”

“Consumes oil at interstate speeds”

“Oil leaks from transmission bottom gasket and vacuum leaks from the engine”

“a valve cover gasket leaks This is on a replacement engine from a previous radiator cap leak”

“even though I had my oil changed almost exclusively at the dealership the oil plug stripped and caused me to have to replace the whole oil pad”

“It must be a minor leak or burn-off, but after a couple months, the oil level is reduced significantly. Also, puffs of white smoke exit the tailpipe immediately after starting the car”

“Slight drips of oil from engine seal, they want $850 to repair but I prefer a piece of cardboard on the garage floor”

“Valve covers leaking down into cylinders causing blue smoke on cold engine start”

“lifters needed replacing”

“Some oil starting leak a few drops from oil plug”

“The timing chain cover was leaking oil”

“Check engine light came on. One sensor had to be replaced but the other one just had to be cleaned”

“During routine service at the dealership, they noticed a crack in one of the engine mounts. Had this fixed before it got worse and caused bigger problems”

“upper torque bar failed for the second time during ownership”

“one of them broke”

“I smelled gas while driving.9There was a sludge buildup on the outside of the engine”

“CD quit working”

“It was actually the tape deck, which is part of the CD system”

“quit working”

“The player does not read compact discs of any type. The CD player skips”

“VERY difficult to adjust the volume. It is necessary to pull on the knob and turn it slowly to make any adjustment at all. Cost a fortune to have it repaired at the deal. So we just live with it. Very bad to use while driving in traffic”

“Radio sound not always available. It's pretty old.... so time for new one”

“had to replace the digital display screen (mileage, fuel. etc)”

“Unable at times to be heard when on phone GPS (cuts out sporadically)”

“rear deck speaker covers have disintegrated from sun exposure”

“speaker's grill cover is made of plastic that is decaying and chipping away after exposing to sunlight for over 10 years”

“Air conditioner frequently needs repair”

“needed replacing”

“see previous”

“It doesn't provide even cooling or heating”

“The temperature is not maintained. The heater only works when put on high and then maintains temperature. There is a consistent ticking sound coming from under the dash”

“Doesn't heat adequately. Windshield defroster is weak”

“Inadequate heating with auto function”

“heating valve for evaporator”

“Car was not cooling good. Had refrigerant added. So far so good”

“I smell coolant when running the cabin fan or air conditioner”

“A sensor failed”

“Chronic check-engine light warnings that indicate lean fuel-air mix”

“Check engine light came on. Had the guys at Advanced Auto Parts check the code. Took it to the dealership the next day and had the O2 sensor replaced”

“Engine warning light on. Service found O2 sensor failure”

“Check engine light kept coming on. After three visits to a mechanic several oxygen sensors needed to be replaced for a total repair bill over more the $1,000.00”

“Chek Engine light has come on three times in the five years we have owned this car. Twice if was fixed by our mechanic plugging in the monitor. Once had to replace the sensor”

“Oxygen sensor failed and check engine alarm lamp indicated the problem”

“Alternator needed replacing. Also the electronic assembly to control the accelerator need to be replaced”

“failed while driving at 130000 miles. Easily replaced for $400”

“alternator failed”

“Failed alternator apparently damaged battery, which would not hold a charge. Replaced it myself”

“WAS NOT A FAILURE. IT WAS A IDEAL TIME TO CHANGE”

“Serious spark plug accessibility problems. Plugs buried between engine and firewall. Cost $400.00 labor to change”

“Slower and slower starting until it would not start at all”

“FOGGY needed work”

“The headlight covers have been "foggy" for several years now. New covers are way too expensive and the kit that I bought to clean the covers didn't work”

“Both the driver and passenger heater seats went out at the same time AFTER the light indicator was replaced. Dealer claimed it was not their problem and we needed new seat heaters at the price of almost $700 each. I had it done someplace else for $”

“Only the driver side door unlocks on keyless entry. The other doors do not”

“Electrical junction box went bad - unable to unlock power door locks on the 3 passenger doors. All 3 LOCK when using remote keyless entry, but they wilol not UNLOCK. Part cost $850 plus 2 hr labor charges”

“every door does not unlock when remoted”

“I am unable to adjust the lumbar control”

“some assembly part of the sunroof broke in the open position and the repair cost $2000.00 - and had to return to dealer three times to get the seal corrected”

“At times the trunk will not latch closed”

“Portion of the master (driver's side) switch controlling the front passenger window failed. Since it costs about $500 to replace, I decided to leave the window permanently up”

“The driver side window just... fell down. into the door”

“Valve stem Seals need to be replaced”

“Cost $1,000 to replace timing belt”

“Main bearing went out - found replacement engine rather than rebuilding”

“It was due and it broke before we had the chance to replace it”

“Was told that water pump was weak, coolant level had been droping”

“I've had 3 water pumps so far-leaking. The screws holding it in kept breaking. Mechanic had to drop engine to get to pump and replace screws with bolts. No problems since”

“INTAKE MANIFOLD GASKET REPLACEMENT- R/L BYPASS HOSE HOUSING PLATE GASKET PLENUM GASKET”

“After changing trans. fluid , updating computer chip , etc. , which did not solve the rough shifting. The dealer stated the next step is to replace the trans. This was say 60,000 or 70,000 mile ago. I did not want to spend the money , so still putt”

“acceleration faulty b/c of slipping gear”