Toyota Camry Change Vehicle

“mechanic changed the struts first. did not solve clunking noises when hitting pot holes. changed bushings and that help some but not my satisfaction. on going saga”

“Bed leak developed over about a month and complete rack and pinion had to be replaced”

“Leakage was inside linkage boots”

“Leaks caused by extreme heat in Arizona”

“Just a report of a leak but not bad enough to cause me not to drive it”

“rack and pinion leaking”

“I drove off the edge of a driveway and damaged the power steering connection”

“I live in Arizona and the heat is really hard on hoses, it is just something that has to be replaced during the extreme heat”

“rack and pinion leaking fluid and had to be replaced”

“don't know why the power steering hose and assembly needs to be replaced. Planned obsolescence?”

“losing power steering fuid”

“car feels like it"s bottoming out”

“Clunking noises”

“Front struts went in under 100000 miles.Very expensive at dealer had them replaced elsewhere for half the dealer cost”

“Right shock and strut had to be replace due to leakage”

“Normal wear after 90000 miles”

“Struts indicated leakage; sway bar linkages became loose”

“Leakage needed to replace”

“don't know why the struts wear out before 100000 miles”

“Car bounced excessively”

“noise”

“Rear struts clunking. Replaced rear sway bar bushings, which helped. Some noise continues from strut mounts. Struts are still ok”

“Right front strut was leaking, both front struts replaced. Both control arms also replaced. Four-wheel alignment then required”

“replaced 4 struts 3 times dealer $ 1900. Non dealer $900”

“small oil leak on the front strout that dealer recommended to replace”

“leaking strut pulling to drivers side”

“Broken right front spring”

“broken front driver side spring. had to change both struts for over $1,200”

“The right front spring broke, but fell into the pan below it and could not be seen easily. Hence, we had a rattle that was unexplainable. That is, until a smart mechanic found the problem”

“Steering linkage had to be replaced due to leakage inside boots”

“WAS DUE TO BE REPLACED, AS WERE STRUTS, DRY ROTTED TIRES [I LIVE IN THE DESERT]. THESE ACTIONS RESOLVED EVERY ISSUE”

“Problem was diagnosed by our local mechanic. We didn't experience any problem per se”

“We had the gas pedal acceleration problem that had much airtime - Toyota did not cover the $600+ cost to replace because they said it was out of warrenty . This car did have the published problem - I drove it, so I know it was not real. Made me won”

“Rack and pinon started leaking. this is a common problem with the Camry”

“Had a vibration. Repair cost was considerable”

“Rubber boot covering was cracked and torn letting in contamination/debris for a $700 repair”

“Intermediate steering knocks. Purchased new one and replaced it. Previously, it was fixed under warranty by adding grease (T-SB-0296-08) in 2009. Had to write to Toyota Headquarters Japan for toyota to cover the repair”

“Replace front lower control arm ($1492.19)”

“went in for breaks, tech advised us that Power Rack might start leaking and low and behold it did just that 1 week after service. Sent in for repair $$$ additional parts damaged during the repair and Toyota dealership tried to pass these expenses ont”

“Control arms replaced in conjunction with both front struts”

“worn bushings”

“Normal wear”

“Normal wear and tear...repaired wheel bearings and brakes”

“ABS light comes on intermittently. Diagnostic code C0200 and C1330 are in memory of the ABS controller, but ABS light is not on all of the time. When ABS light off, vibration/pulsation can and does occur during braking”

“ABS light came on, took car to dealer and was told sensor was bad or loose wire, but they failed to fix it and wanted to thoUSnds of dollars worth of other work. Just drive it with light on now”

“Rear calipers had some sort of "pin" that came loose causing the calipers to get "stuck" thereby increasing the wear on the rotors. Costs to fix calipers and have new pads and new rotors installed by Toyota was about $800”

“Left front calipers were sticking. Had them replaced and everything is fine”

“Left front caliper broke in half”

“First major brake problem. Easy fix at less than $400”

“40000 miles is too soon to have to replace and rebuild front brakes”

“Non OEM front Brake pads purchased at Advance Auto lasted only 2 years and 1 month with about 20,000 miles of use. These pads were Advance Auto Parts D/P Wearever Gold DNAD908 $37. The original Toyota front brake pads lasted over 100,000 miles”

“Went from material on brake pads to metal on metal very quickly”

“I have replaced the brakes prematurely in my opinion, three times in the past three years”

“brakes worn out under 27000 miles???”

“Extra repairs needed”

“Replaced brakes at 18000 under warranty at dealer. Normal wear since with no replacement”

“auto had low pedal clearance from delivery in 06. Despite repeated complaints to the dealer of this, they resounded that it was "normal" Stevenson Toyota is a self protecting dealership which tries to avoid any warranty work as it is covered at low r”

“My brakes were making a noise, and the dealer say I needed to replace my front rotors”

“brakes pads and rotor replacement cost $308”

“They machine and replace the rotors and it happens again with a month....get flat places on them. Serviced at Toyota dealers”

“Creaking noise when brakes were applied”

“Rear brake pad wear”

“bushings are worn”

“the squeak went away when I had the brakes repaired @ 128,000 miles”

“Took awhile to find out what was going on”

“Replaced rear brake pads, normal wear”

“New front and rear brakes installed as a result of inspection”

“The brakes squeaked, which was not normal, so I had them fixed”

“It was normal”

“Has to have new pads installed”

“High mileage”

“Calipers and rotors had worn out and needed to be replaced”

“noisy brakes”

“Front brakes needed to be replaced after 96000 miles”

“ABS makes noises”

“One of my rear brakes locked up”

“Car was driven with parking brake on”

“Car accelerated when I shifted into park”

“it was simply normal wear and tear of the pads”

“brake on passenger front side wore out and had to be replaced”

“Brake pads were replaced”

“light bulbs burned out”

“The fog light brace broke. We ordered a new one at a parts business and they said they sell used ones as soon as they get them in stock, so we bought a new replacement”

“Very sensitive brake light switch on brake peddle. Interlock prevents auto transmission shifting from park if switch does not indicate that brake pedal is depressed”

“Indicator light on transmission shifter is not working and lights on heating A/C knobs no longer illuminate at night. Same with 96 RAV4 & 99 4 Runner”

“climate control night lamp is gone and is not recommended to be repaired because of high cost of disassembling dash module”

“Both key fobs stopped working. Replaces batteries but still did not work. Called dealer and investigated on the web. Found this camry year had a fob problem and it was 600 - 1000 to fix”

“It took multiple trips to the dealer to fix the problems. Very expensive to replace control boards- over $1000!”

“Main control motor[panel] - failed. Too expensive to repair”

“passenger side door lock did not operate”

“Keyless entry quit working. It was replaced”

“Stopped working. Dealer said repair could $1,000 or more. Not worth the cost to repair. This is frustrating since only one door has a key hole”

“Remote for locks no longer works. Have tried reprogramming car but hasn't worked. Replacing remote lock sensor very expensive because of bad location”

“Door Control Module failure”

“Receiver for keyless entry is not functioning. The cost to replace was estimated in the range of $1,000 by the Toyota dealer, an exorbitant cost. As a result it has not been repaired”

“remote sensor failed. Dealership wants $800 to replace. It is behind the passenger seat. They cannot guarantee that this is the actual problem. We just use the key to unlock and lock doors now. Not worth the money to fix, especially since they are no”

“No longer works”

“Keyless remote sensor has failed. Car must be manually unlocked”

“Keyless entry failed and diagnosis revealed it was the in the ECU. Replacement $900-$1000. Internal power locks continue to operate”

“Dash lights came on and problem was traced to defective trunk opening system- cost over $600 to repair. It seems toyota has various electronic issues that are very expensive to fix. Not very reliable in the electronics area”

“The battery indicator light comes on intermittently”

“Gear indicator light on console does not work”