Toyota Sienna Change Vehicle

“regularly addressing alignment problems. hugely inconvenient somewhat costly”

“Since purchase, can't be perfectly aligned. Wears out tires quickly. Problem with all 2004 AWD Sienna's. There are websites describing the issue”

“I had a bolt shear off that had to be replaced”

“Ball joints became loose necessitating a replacement”

“Ball joint needed replacement”

“Had to relate due to noise”

“Bushings in control arm were cracked and had to be replaced”

“Bushings in lower control A arms were broken”

“bad bushing on control arm needed to be replaced”

“I was told that the bushings were wearing down but I did not have them replaced yet. I was told that could be another problem that might cause the vibration”

“Right lower control arm replaced and now needs the other side to be replaced”

“Lower control arm bushings keep failing. Third time replaced”

“Bushings were worn on the front lower control arms. This caused some play in the steering as well as a small jolt when applying the brakes. Also a loud clunking sound when going up over a curb (as in to a driveway)”

“Part of the tiecrod”

“Rear bushings had worn out, allowing the axel to bounce. Causes tire wear”

“Worn control arm bushings requring $1700 replacement”

“Bushings separated and needed to be replaced”

“Took van to dealer concerning tire wear. Dealer set up time for front end alignment after I told them it had already been checked and iwas within specs. Dealer said they were 99% sure that was the problem. An hour and a half after front end check dealership said it was within specs and they did not know what was causing tires to wear on the outside edges only! Independant garage found the problem,bad bearing”

“the car had the problem immediately, when turning.my ind garage did research to find & repair. Toyota gave me a $500 repair credit. Dealer was useless”

“Major overhall on steering system”

“Leak in the hydraulic fluid required replacing the internal steering column unit”

“Steering column was leaking fluid and had to be replaced”

“Had a power steering fluid leak. The dealer advised that the steering rack needed to be replaced. Total cost of job was about $1200”

“The dealer wants $1,200 to fix a leak; I'll just add fluid when it needs it. It will be a lot cheaper”

“same as above”

“Very slight drip out of the passenger side of the hydraulic actuator for the power steering”

“power steering box replaced”

“Power steering fluid was leaking. Replaced power steering return line”

“Currently a small leak that requires fluid be added about monthly. Problem will continue to worsen and is leaking into the boots and will require repair within the year”

“Dealer asking $1500 to replace steering rack”

“Rack and pinion needs to be replaced as power steering fluid is leaking. Dealership said that the design of the system means that the whole thing must be replaced (including things that are working fine) and can not be repaired and that the cost will be several hundred dollars. Poor design”

“Had issue with occasionally losing power steering when turning. Leak found which required replacing complete rack & pinion”

“Fluid not completely replaced when front end reassembled. Pump made a noise when car was turning. I replaced the fluid and problem ceased”

“Leaking power steering hoses. Replaced”

“jittery steering caused by struts, power steering pump and belts and tires. 100,000 to 120,000 miles”

“Replaced expensive power steering pump and connecting parts”

“Steering intermittently became hard to turn wheel. Pump worn out and replaced”

“Struts wore out. First attempt to replace at Sears was a mistake as the tech did not know enough about this vehicle. Had to get repaired properly at dealership”

“Rear shocks replaced”

“Front struts and rear shocks needed replacing. This cost $1200”

“Needed to have the whole front end replaced. ADDITIONAL DIFFICULTY not listed has been the automatic doors. Side door gets stuck/freezes and rear latch is not automatic”

“premature wear out”

“Front struts were leaking hydraulic fluid. Both were replaced and other parts replaced. Ride improved greatly”

“Leaking rear shocks”

“Front shocks and struts needed replacement. Not unreasonable given the mileage and age of vehicle”

“Rumble noise over pot holes”

“Leaking shock that required replacement of the shock/strut”

“Shocks/struts are coming up on each inspection when get oil at Toyota. After rack/pinion just completed wondering why not noted back then”

“The bushings on the rear shocks failed. Toyota unable to diagnose and instead said the bushings on the axle had to be replace ($1000.+). Went to Pep Boys and they diagnosed that a bushing on the shocks needed to be replace. Got new shocks ($215) and”

“Strut needs replacement and due to age of car, it will be difficult because it is rusted. Planning to buy new car instead of making this repair”

“All 4 were worn out and had to be replaced”

“The front left shock leaked and no longer worked. It had to be replaced along with the front right”

“Morew and more difficult turning”

“Original rear shocks/struts replaced. Front control arm and bushings replaced”

“shocks needed to be replaced”

“Front struts and rear shocks were worn out after 180,000 miles. Kept scraping the hitch because the back was so worn out”

“Had to replace both front and back at about 140000”

“Replaced front struts $1,000”

“The struts had never been replaced. My Sienna is 13 years old and has over 200,000 miles on it. It was due time for those struts to be replaced. When they replaced the struts, they also replaced all the adjoining parts. I would say that the struts were well overdue for replacement and I would call this more a maintenance issue than a failure in product”

“Struts failed prematurely and are noisy”

“The spring on the passenger side broke”

“Broken right rear spring. Was not a noticeable drive-ability issue”

“front driver's side spring broke and the top bracket rusted out. Needed complete replacement. Mechanic replaced front shocks at the same time”

“Needed repairs because of poor condition of the roads after last winter”

“The springs were sagging so we scrapped the bumper a lot and the car swayed so bad that it made you sick to your stomach when sitting in the rear of the van. Cost to replace two rear springs $800”

“torsion bar bushing replaced”

“broken rear spring”

“My front right spring broke. I had replaced the struts once before but re-used the original springs. I ended up replacing the struts and springs both since it had been 75,000 miles since I had done the struts”

“intermediate steering shaft needed replacement”

“Steering gets very stiff in cold weather and sometimes locks up in the beginning of drive”

“Rack and pinion developed leak that required replacing”

“The toyota technicians when doing a front end alignment over tighten the adjustment bolts thus stripping them for the next alignment, consequently the parts hve to be replaced costing $425.00”

“Had to replace the rack and pinion”

“Same issue”

“The rack & pinion was replaced since the tie rods couldn't be freed so all had to be replaced. Had to do an alignment after”

“Control rods/bushings need replacing. Steering is currently a bit "soft" and bumps cause excessive vibration”

“Rack and Pinion wearout seemed to be a lot sooner than the previous Dodge Mini we had. Steer fluid leaks and wear/tear on the tires even though bal-n-aligned regularly. After services completed, tires and leaks seem to be under control. Tires may ha”

“steering shaft has to be replaced”

“Rack & Pinion leak, drive shaft replaced due water penetration. steering make noise when turning”

“Linkage and steering column leaking”

“The universal joint in the steering column rusted and seized up. I have never had rthis hapopen before in any car. The steering column had to be replaced”

“Diagnosed by Dealership. Preventative replacement of parts”

“The steering shaft wore out on my Sienna. I took it to a private mechanic shop I trust and they told me it was a common failure on Toyota Siennas. They replace the steering shaft for me and it has been fine since”

“I replaced steering rack due to leaking in passenger side of rack”

“The steering had what I would call a flat spot in which the steering felt disconnected from the wheels. It was repaired this year but was very expensive”

“I was told by the dealership that the rack and pinion needed to be replaced so I had them do it”

“The auto developed vibrations and clicking noises when brakes were applied. The upper control arm bushings were badly worn. Cost nearly $1000 to replace them. While at it, except for 2 occurrences when the air went out, and a few other minor items, we had no problems with this vehicle until about 2 years ago”

“Right front bushings were worn completely through and required replacement”

“Steering wheel would pull left when brakes applied. Car would continue to drive straight if the driver let the steering wheel jerk right when brakes applied. If steering wheel held firmly, the car would jerk right slightly”

“I was informed by my mechanic that the rack and pinion was worn and should be replaced”

“had to be replaced”

“The Steering U-Joint on the engine side of the firewall deteriorated so the steering was stiff when turning at one point and also the steering column would rattle”

“Front end of van tended to move left to right going down the road. Dealership said it needed a complete front rack but could not tell me why !”

“I believe the lower control arm needed to be replaced. Whatever it was, it's usually an easy/cheap fix on most vans. The Sienna required an engine mount to be loosened and the engine jacked up which equals expensive repair”

“While driving my steering wheel will vibrate from just mildly to a really bad vibration that I feel I have to really hold on tight. I have had new tires put on and also had them rotated. It seems to help for a while but then starts again. I have also”

“Ever since we purchase, never been able to get steering properly aligned. Caused uneven tire wear. Tire replacement every two years. Toyota hasn't been able to figure out. Causes vibrating steering wheel”

“Vibrations of front passenger side wheel at speeds approaching 70 mph”

“Tie Rods are going. Have put a lot of miles on this car. Have to hand it to Toyota that their cars last. But more costly repairs do come with age”

“One tie rod had to be replaced due to wear”

“When turning steering wheel the car would wobble”

“Wheel and axle bearing went out as did both fron struts and mounts”

“constantly have to address wheel balance. nothing seems to fix it long term”

“Wheel bearings on front driver's side needed replacement twice in one year (second was covered by warranty)”

“Replaced both front bearings. First about 164000 and second about 177000”

“Wheel bearings had to be replaced because they were sealed and couldn't be lubricated. Also had to replace the hub due to wear by the wheel bearing race”

“They wore out and it was an expensive repair. It also led to us having to replace the tires, which was not pointed out to us by the service people at the dealership”

“Noticed a loud noise from the rear of the car. Dealer said the wheel bearings were deteriorating; we opted not to replace due to cost and dealer said it did not affect safety”

“Had to replace both front left and right bearings- pressed on bearings created a big expense!”

“bearings needed to be replaced”

“Wheel bearing on front driver's side wheel failed, which wore down the wheel hub and both had to be replaced. Passenger side front wheel seems to have the same problem”

“They caused uneven wear requiring almost new tire be replaced”

“Driver side door, hinge mechanism that controls opening and closing, not the regular support hinges, is in the process of breaking. Entire door will need to be replaced”

“Door stop on driver side door makes aloud crack when door is opened. Toyota says only permanent repair is to replace the door”

“Toyota issued a warranty return on door issues, dealer would not honor because I am not the original owner”

“Thank God I bought the extended warranty. My power door motor has died twice. The drivers door window didn't work and the door check need to be replace after I had it fixed two times. The door check was a known problem on many of the vans. Toyota”

“Both automatic doors failed parts alone were1600 per door”

“Power sliding door no longer opens or closes when activated via button or remote. Must be activated by pulling on door handle”

“doors easily caught by wind and flung open beyond where the door should stop. Very expensive to have fixed because the whold apparatus needed to be replaced by a body shop. The second time we didn't bother to fix it”

“power door stopped working. Cable rusted out”

“Side doors stopped operating. The estimate for repair was astronomical (approx $2K). I disassembled the door and fixed it myself. Periodically it requires revisiting the problem and correcting it again (approx every 6 - 8 months)”

“Door assembly has been repaired twice (over 5 years) due to a loud popping noise when opening or closing the driver side door. Noise may be starting to come back”

“Motorized closer failed on passenger's side rear door”

“Cable snapped in driver's side power sliding rear door. Very expensive to fix so have not fixed it”

“Driver's side front door hinge is snapping and dealer has told us weld is loose”

“the car is a dump but I have so much invested in repairs it should be like a new car and can't afford to get a new one”

“sliding doors freeze in cold temps”

“Right sliding door has had several problems with the hinges and cables, some covered by warranty enhancement”

“power sliding door stopped working. Took it to dealer. Dealer repaired ($1000). Broke again less than a year later. Same issue”

“Power door cable broke one month after the (unannounced) warranty extension expired. There was no inspection done by the dealer, which would have discovered the wear before it broke. The repair cost is ridiculously expensive for what amounts to repla”

“Front door hinges "snapped" and is a very costly fix. Apparently it was acknowledged by Toyota but never recalled. Also, the sliding doors freeze shut and can't be opened until thawed!”

“Cable system on both powered sliding doors snapped...too expensive to repair”

“Door making popping noise when opened. Dealer said requires body shop to fix at $375. Occurred at 101,000 miles , just out of warranty”

“Broken weld on overtravel spring”

“Driver's door frame failed where the latch attaches”

“Power sliding doors freeze shut”

“driver side door check failure”

“sliding doors frozen shut when cold”

“2004-2006 Sienna's have a design weakness in the front driver and passenger side door checks being spot welded. Our driver side door check became unattached and Toyota claimed it wasn't under warranty and told us that we needed to buy a new door for”

“Electrical sliding door is inoperative. Does work manually”

“Driver's door swings open wildly without stops until it reaches the end of it's hinge travel”

“There is a known issue where the metal cup inside the front door where the hinge attaches will crack. So the sound is the metal flexing and popping due to the crack. The solution is a new door or welding it to repair it”

“slow or stopping in cold weather”

“The electric sliding door stopped working and cannot be opened”

“The door stop/detent inside the driver's door cracked then broke, so the door does not stay open on the detent anymore. Also, since the detent broke the driver's side window cannot be opened all the way due to broken metal jamming the window”

“Popping when driver side front door is opened or closed. Dealer wanted $1700 to repair. Otherwise, it has been a very good auto”

“doors do open or close easily”

“Broken cable sliding door”

“Driver door part that limits how far door opens is broken. Dealer says they can't fix; must take it to a body shop!”

“The passenger side motorized sliding door had its wire rope fail. Repair parts are only available as a full assembly that with installation would cost over $750. The electric lock on the driver side slider no longer works”

“Rear passenger power door has failed at interval for several years and reported timely to several dealers. Last week failed and could not close door. Toyota flatly refused any help or to stand behind an obvious poorly designed power door. Now inde”

“Sliding doors actuators on BOTH sliders died. Had the 2004 Sienna driver's door clicking, then broken weld. No support from Toyota, well documented, common problem”

“Some kind of design flaw relating to the interior cable that releases and pulls back the door. The cable frays, jams and fails. Toyota extended the warranty on this for a number of years but we were outside the time period. Toyota paid most of cost”

“The power sliding door broke a small piece of plastic. which cannot be repaired unless the entire operating mechanism is replaced for $1800 dollars. so I am living without a power door”

“The drivers door weld broke and the passanger sliding door quit working”

“Power sliding door failed to close. This is the third time that this door has failed. Estimated cost to repair was $3000.00 Conversion to manual operation including custom fabrication of essential parts at a non dealer independent repair shop was $3”

“The sliding doors are supposed to open with a button, but they have both failed. The main one on the passenger side (which is the safest for children to enter) failed mechanically and will cost over $1300 to fix. The other one will not open because”

“power door failed to operate electrically”

“This van has electric sliding rear passenger doors. The doors became sluggish whether using the electronic button or using the handle. Then the doors quit working at all. Dealer fix was very expensive. Used parts instalaled”

“Driver's side door closure failed. I purchased a replacement, had the door welded and replaced the closure. Toyota would not help”

“Power sliding door drive cable broke”

“Driver's door was making loud noises when it was opened or shut. Something was loose inside the door. The door was repaired on a Toyota Recall about 6-7 years ago. It worked fine for about 6 years, then broke again.....same noises. This time, no company repair. To me this sounds like a design deficiency”

“driver front door check - steel and weld cracking / coming un welded - squeak / clunk sound and poor door function when opening / closing”

“loud popping noise. The mount for the door thingy that keeps the door from opening too far came off its hinge inside the door. Some welding needed to be done”

“Cable on sliding door broke. We were just "out of recall" zone. Cost over $1000 to repair. This apparently was a known defect”

“Latch on sliding door broke off of door frame on 2 of the three screws, and third screw fell off. Subsequently third screw tore through the frame as well. Presently holding on with washers, require frequent tightening”

“Driver's side door, door check arm broke where it's attached to the door (not the frame)”

“Driver's side door had wear and tear from so many years of use (noise, broken hinge). Had Body Shop repair for $575”

“driver side door hinge broke”

“Drivers door check pocket failed Right power sliding door failed This is the last Toyota I'll ever buy”

“Sliding side door does not completely close”

“Driver side front door check pocket is broken and makes popping noise during opening/closing. Dealer indicates a new door replacement is required and that would cost $2000+”

“The driver side door has a design defect common in Sienna. The hold open device breaks out causing problems with the window operating and the door swinging too wide. Toyota's estimate to repair was a new door at $1800. If this was a wear and tear issue, I wouldn't be too upset, however, it is a design defect which they would provide assistance for a limited number of years. I don't know if the issue has been resolved in newer madels but it prompted me to choose Honda for the new vehicle”

“Both sliding doors failed, less than a month apart. $3500 to replace cables and motors”

“the back door comes down with out warming, when the van was new they cloud not find what was wound. But now that i have over 100000 miles they can fix it for $589.00. now hows that for customer service”

“Passenger automatic sliding door mechanism broke. Fixing it would cost $1,500. We have been manually opening/closing it but this is too difficult (heavy/hard) for children under 10years old and is embarrassing, but fixing it would cost too much. Drivers side automatic sliding door works fine”

“Passenger heated seat does not heat”

“seat heater does not work. been told to buy brand new seat for $1600”

“The driver side heater no longer works”

“front passenger door swing limit bar broke”

“The passenger door cannot be opened from the inside. The latches on both sliding doors of the van have been fixed because of recall and still malfunction sporatically”

“Sliding door lock solenoid stopped working, had to manually lock the door”

“The drivers side door latch developed a clicking hitch. Very annoying so we had a body shop replace and do some welding”

“door check noise”

“rear door handles broke off. rear door locks failed. $400 Each”

“Latches for the 3rd row seats are not functioning properly. They do not release the seats when the strap is pulled to fold the seats. Also the 60% seat back does not latch open”

“The weld broke for the drivers side door and there was not covered”

“The door to the gas tank was being shut gently one day, and it fell off in my hand because the metal just suddenly gave out”

“Rear sliding door lock fails to respond to electrical control at driver's station”

“The driver's side retractor failed and the cost to replace was significant”

“Both front seat belts twist constantly & I need to return car to dealer to have them untwisted-this is a known problem w/my Sienna, I think Toyota should fix this as a recall”

“Passenger seat belts stick and do not recoil”

“The seat belts in the front and middle passenger side seats sometime do not retract correctly”

“If shoulder belt strap on driver's seat is pulled out quickly it often doubles over and gets jammed in the guide attached to the frame. This can be very hard to undo. This is a safety issue I reported to Toyota and NHTSA in the past to no avail”

“The front passenger seat belt does not retract and pull out each time”

“Seat belts regularly get stuck and cannot either be pulled out or retract. The repair often is to remove door trim to expose the mechanism and to move the reel until it goes on its own. Some of the failures are due to the seat belt being twisted,”

“Seat belts in this vehicle have a tendency to "fold over" when pulling them out, then they jam. Apparently it is a bad design in the retractor or guide system”

“Electric seat control stopped working. To repair myself is eighteen hundred dollars. too pricey, no easy fix,”

“Cannot extract one of the rear seats”

“Started erratic movement, at times will not move. Can not buy bad gear to fix, have to buy complete movement assembly to fix, $1850 for assembly. Plus labor $400 to $500”

“Electric positioners on driver's side were always irregular, despite several service visits”

“After about 6 years of ownership, the seat heaters stopped working. Have not had this repaired because of cost”

“Rock off of bridge broke sunroof. Insurance fixed. We hardly ever use but then wanted to open it and cables broken or off track $1500 to fix - so we did not”

“A drain pipe from the sunroof area plugs (for the second time in 3 years) causing water to drip into the car interior”

“The "pistons" stopped working that could keep the hatch open. Both had to be replaced”

“Recall last summer for spare tire cable. Toyota still doesn't have a fix, so spare tire sits inside my minivan (taking up space) rather than underneath it”

“Auto tailgate failed multiple times”

“Rear central hatch door to the minivan won't reliably go up and down any more”

“Does not stay up when open”

“Shocks on trunk door became worn out, so that the trunk would not stay up. Replaced shocks, and now works”

“passenger side electric window is slow and noisy but the repair cost is $700 so I live with it”

“Rubber seal material around rear passenger window came loose. Repair required ordering parts and took 3 days”

“compressor broke down, needed replacement”

“failed”

“Stopped working. Needs replaced”

“Stopped working. This the second Sienna that I have had the same problem”

“A/C quit cooling because compressor would not engage, compressor was replaced”

“Leeks needed to be replaced”

“The A/C unit went out”

“wouldn't blow cold air”

“AC clutch seized and ruined the compressor. We just sold our newer BMW and buying another new Sienna”

“A/C compressor stopped working and had to be replaced”

“The A/C Failed and the compressor needed to be replaced”

“We had it fixed”

“Failure of A/C compressor and condenser”

“Electrical interlocks on the compressor has made intermitant failure of the A/C to start up. Still looking for a cure”

“AC compressore relay went bad. Low cost to replace $150”

“The A/C stopped producing cold air and The compressor needed to be replaced”

“compressor died after about 130,000 miles. replaced”

“A/C stopped working. Toyota dealer repair shop replaced compressor. Still didn't work. I suspect there was nothing wrong with the compressor, just that the control panel wiring was faulty. When they fixed that, A/C worked. Still out $600 for compressor replacement though”

“When I dropped my vehicle off at the dealership for routine maintenance, they called and informed me that the AC compressor clutch just fell off when the technician lifted the car”

“A/C for rear passenger compartment stopped working”

“AC cools well most of the time but won't periodically. Refrigerant was checked - ok - but dashboard switches do not work every once in a while”

“The Auto climate control kicks in when not turned on and changes setting of the mode and when blowing at upper vent or lower vent”

“Automatic Climate Control makes noises constantly- unable to adjust air flow control- has been fixed before”

“Rear climate controls has its own console dial, but has never operated properly”

“erratic, intermittent temperature control problems. Temperature controls don't work - heater only on, regardless of temperature knob setting or AC only on, regardless of temperature knob setting. Brought in for repairs but "it never acted up." Sigh”

“Servo that blends hot and cold air not working on passenger side. Always blows cold air regardless of setting. Dealer has been anable to get new servo for over five months. Dealer keeps telling me that it is on back order”

“Never worked priperly from "day 1"”

“The AC stopped working in February 2017. When the car was in the shop for brake pad replacement, the mechanic noticed radiator leak and repaired it. After the radiator repair, the AC started to work. It appeared the automatic climate control was linked to the radiator function”

“temperature control not working properly”

“The front AC/heater blower motor makes horrible noise at times. Brought in for repairs - $500 to replace even though it is EASY to get to and replace. Cost of new blower $350 plus labor”

“Not working”

“Rear air conditioner no longer cools. Always puts out hot air if rear blower is on”

“The condenser and evaporator were replaced by an independent shop to ensure all compressor parts were removed from the system ($3200) . The dealer would not cover replacement under warranty. I feel this is why we had the 2nd and 3rd failures”

“The system would stop cooling after the engine warmed up. I was told the condenser was failing and needed to be replaced, which it was and has worked well since”

“damaged from debris from failed compressor”

“connected with a/c”

“Front condenser failed and was not worth the expense to replace”

“AC would provide cool air for about five minutes then stop cooling. Car was taken to a Toyota dealer who replaced the relay. After repair AC works fine”

“This is the same problem I just discussed where the dashboard switches will not operate the AC every once in a while”

“Magnetic clutch relay had to be replaced”

“The keyless remote lost ability to unlock & open/close liftgate. Toyota traced problem to faulty wire running from fwd Body ECU to rear Power Back Dpor ECU. Toyota replaced wire. Wire installation error probably made by IMS”

“A/C relay failed at 77,600 miles and required replacement. Refrigerant was also replaced and system serviced”

“Air Conditioner quit, taken to a Lexus/Toyota specialist. He was able to repair the AC and radio both were electrical issues”

“When starting up there was a clicking from the rear AC that lasted about 30 seconds. This ocurred each time I turned the ignition switch on. The Dealer diagnosed the problem at a cost of $50.00 that the entire rear AC unit needed replacing because th”

“Driver's side heat does not blow hot unless temperature is set to full hot”

“The heating system is very weak. On very cold days, it did very little to heat up the vehicle”

“Doesn't fully heat if getting air from outside”

“heating and AC system is intermittent in operation. the problem if with the 'doors' that decide where the air blown into the cabin comes from. Unfortunately, to diagnose/repair involves removing entire dash. (i.e. $1.5-2K)”

“It will not blow hot air in the back of the van. Cost to repair $1000”

“We had taken the van to the dealer to have 2 different recalls corrected. One involved replacing the Dashboard, FLA residents were supposed to get a different dash due to the weather and heat. After replacing the dash there was an issue, that some dash items no longer worked and the dash was marred, (not new looking). After a second try at fixing it the drivers side had air conditioning blowing out of the vents while the passenger had heat. They said that a controller had overloaded and failed,”

“Rear heat system failure. Replaced heater core. Still only heating on driver side. Air diverters in ax system not working correctly. Replacing car soon”

“Had to recharge the system for the first time”

“Radiator cracked; need to refill anti-freeze on regular basis”

“water pump failure”

“around the thermostat”

“now that the weather is warming up, the AC is not putting out cold air. we will bring it to our machanic soon for the fix”

“Sienna 2004 radiator known to leakage, had a special longer warranty against it, but i missed it”

“The rear AC developed a leak which required an inspection and a recharge of refrigerant. The front AC was OK. With the recharge of refrigerant, I am able to use the front AC but not the rear. We'll see if this continues to be alright when it gets”

“Three leaks. They over filled with fluid then, so it cold air wasn't consistent”

“had to recharge system two times”

“Rear A/C tube and suction hose for rear A/C was leaking and had to be replaced”

“Ax not blowing cold air. Radiator leaks and electronic control sensor failure”

“the Toyota dealer put in a sealant and the unit has worked fine since”

“As weather warmed I realized it was not cooling at all. A local private garage was able to repair the problem”