Toyota Sienna Change Vehicle

“Steering linkage defective related to all joint. Replaced components and had to take back because it failed again”

“Wore out $2000repair”

“Top engine mount bushing failed. Cost aprox $500 at dealership to repair”

“Power steering fluid was found inside engine compartment”

“fluid leaks due so cracked tubes”

“part of the other issue, rack and pinion is leaking and replacement is going to cost upwards of 900”

“Hydraulic cylinder is leaking. Can't just replace gaskets, must replace entire assembly - around $2000!”

“The steering rack began a slow leak at about 90,000, but never lost enough fluid to require replacement of the steering rack until nearly 130,000”

“The rack and pinion assembly gaskets dried out from the desert heat and had to be replaced”

“It was noise every time I turn right or left. It had a strong cracking sound. In the dealer they found out a leak, plus a bushing (that has no replacement) bad. I paid 1200 to change the power steering, and it was the end of the problem”

“Leaking power steering fluid. Replaced steering rack and pinion”

“Boot tore and now it leaks”

“Power steering cylinder leak”

“Replaced power steering equipment for about 1200 dollars due to leak”

“There was a leak in the "boot". There was no evidence of a problem in steering or spots on the ground, but we decided to have it fix. There has been no more leaks since then”

“The power steering started leaking and now we receive feedback when turning quickly”

“Damaged steering system boot”

“The power steering leaked and cost 1300 to repair”

“Some type of connection hose - with a hole in it”

“Noises and belt slipping”

“power steering pump failed and was replaced”

“Needed to replace right rear strut”

“Front strut bearing plates are worn and a bit noisy. Estimated cost $1500 but 3 mechanics have assessed that it is not a safety problem and probably not worth the cost so I am living with it since the struts are still performing ok”

“Strut repair resulted in our decision to sell car”

“Replaced last month”

“Needed replacement due to age and km's”

“need to place struts. Have not done yet as the estimate is $1200 for both sides (L and R)”

“required new front struts”

“Knocking noise in front end when traveling over rough roads. Dealer replaced front struts, which did not fix the problem”

“Worn struts & shocks apparently caused cupping of the tires resulting in not being able to balance the tires & a problem with front end alignment and a severe shimmy when driving the car”

“minor leaks from both shocks and struts”

“They were worn out”

“Mc pherson strut leaked and required replacement at near $1000”

“Worn out suspension resulted in costly repairs”

“Front spring broke”

“Steering rack was replaced because the seal could not be fixed”

“This is the second Sienna that has required a rack and pinion replacement. The wear to the system has brought on leaks and ingestion of dirt and thus resulted in a flushing of the power steering system. Very expensive”

“Rack and pinion steering had to be entirely replaced”

“Boot was torn and leaked oil on the garage floor. No glue how the boot could have possibly torn. Replaced entire rack and pinion”

“Front wheel drive linkage”

“I had the rack and pinion replaced in 2013 and 2017”

“Needed replacement parts”

“Replaced intermediate steering shaft”

“replaced steering column and also control arms”

“rack and pinion seals are bad, requiring full replacement”

“The steering rack was leaking and needed to be replaced”

“there is a leak in the power steeling”

“Have small leak in rack / pinon gear system. Estimate cost to repair very high. Much easier to replace fluid when needed, but have not had to do it yet. Apparently a little oil makes a big smear”

“Leaking - needed to replace”

“see Steering Rack comment”

“rack & pinion replacement, power steering pump replacement”

“The problem (rack and pennon arm) resulted in leakage of power steering fluid onto the brake pads which caused the brakes to grab”

“Rack and pinion was leaking fluid”

“Steering gear needed replacement and I think cost was around $500-600 and this repair also fixed leaking power steering fluid”

“Steering shaft universal joint failed”

“Rack & pinion required replacement twice. First due to leaking seal and torn dust boot and second 3 months later due to faulty replaced unit”

“Began leaking. Found to be worn. Replaced with rebuilt assembly”

“steering rack & Pinion boot started leaking. Dealer replaced the whole rack & pinion assembly”

“Broken rack dust boot”

“I did not expect this but do not think it is unusual for a car with this mileage.The dealer helped with the labor and found an excellent rebuilt rack and pinion at a super price”

“Had to replace entire steering box cost over $1100.00”

“Power steering rack failed and needed replacement”

“Steering rack had to be replaced”

“Had to have dealer replace rack and pinion unit due to leakage and mechanical failure. Failed again after 6 mos at which time dealer replaced again under warranty”

“Rack and pinion is a known problem with these vehicles and both have been replaced in the last 3 years at $1500 each time”

“The rack and pinion was the cause of the uneven tire wear and it being out of alignment. Once that was fixed, the care is perfect”

“Rack and pinion joint is leaking. Should last longer”

“It's fixed now, but it was something the mechanics suggested we fix. We are not very familiar with cars”

“Mysterious vibration that has been nearly impossible to diagnose. Tried new tires, wheel balancing, alignment, suspension check and service, and a transmission inspection. Shimmy is intermittent and only appears at highway speeds, but not all the time”

“Rotors warped. New replacement rotors started warping within 2 months”

“At high speed, the car vibrated and steeling wheel shook, as if tires unbalanced. Was repaired, but I forget the reason given by mechanic”

“Need to replace cv joints as well”

“Replaced last month”

“the boots needed to be replaced”

“Right front tie rod broken, replaced”

“Tie rod boot (passenger side) was leaking”

“Tires that came with the vehicle were not good”

“AWD requires expensive run-flat tires that wear very quickly, are noisy, only two tires fit the car”

“Run flats wear out very fast 10-20k miles”

“no matter howmay alignment, tires are keep wearing out... changed 4 sets of tires in 82,000 miles”

“despite regular rotation, alignments, and different tire brands purchased, cannot get more than 15K miles out of 50k+ rated tires. Front end seems to wear hard on outer edges, as if cornering scrubs tread. Brands included TOYO, Continentals, Yokoha”

“Driver side front, uneven tire wear, multiple alignments and mechanical diagnostics and repairs and still it is happening. I have given up. No more big out of state trips for the family. Van takes one new tire each year”

“It is known that Sienna's can't keep alignment or stay balanced which causes uneven tire wear we have gone through 4 sets of tires that only last 10000 miles when they should last 40000”

“thru 3 sets of tires often it takes many tries to balance good at 70+ mph”

“Because of the high cost of the run flats, I replaced run flat tires with regular all season tires and got a spare. At first, had to go back several times due to problems with tires not being balanced properly. Now that is fixed, but the tire light o”

“Bearings in right front required replacement this month”

“Driver side wheel bearing wore out and was making a "roar" noise. Replaced and noise went away”

“Front wheel bearing (passenger side) went out. Had to be replaced and the wheels had to be aligned”

“I experienced a low pitched drone coming from a rear wheel. I was surprised at how expensive the wheel bearing replacement was”

“Both front bearing replaced in last 12 months”

“Passenger side front door window failed to operate. Found connector had come loose”

“The welds on the door stop on driver's side gave up and the door could not stop when opening. Also it made snapping noise. Because it was out of warranty I had to jerri rig a repair which it did not hold for long”

“Drivers door makes loud noise when opening”

“The doors are this car have given us trouble for the past ten years”

“Some of the welds holding the door detent mounting plate have broken in the driver's door”

“Sliding Doors freeze closed”

“Cable inside motorized sliding door broke, required repair for motorized door function to work. Also main hinge on this door was very worn causing door to sag and needed repair”

“drivers side door hinge needed welded for the third time”

“Drivers side front door check had to be rewelded and replaced”

“Repeated issues over the years with the doors not opening. Fixed at least twice and eventually they don't work again”

“failure of power closing mechanism”

“back seat passenger door would not open”

“The driver's side sliding door had to be repaired because it wouldn't open or close. The driver's door thing that stops the door from opening all the way broke. It looks like a bad design but Toyota won't fix it”

“Poor design on driver and passenger door checks. The spotwelds failed on the door catch cup and it makes an awful noise when you open and close the door. This is a common occurance and it is out of warranty”

“The automatic sliding door cables snap and the cost to repair is prohibitive. BOTH doors are now manual doors, cost to fix is $1500 to $2000 each”

“One sliding side door would not close Also, hinge bracket on drivers door had to be welded to keep door dopen”

“Doors would not open - seemed frozen stuck. Driver's side would not release for several months”

“drivers side passenger sliding door. Cable is broken, door cannot be operated electronically or manually. Several thoUSnd dollars to repair, and therefore not repaired and no longer used”

“Power slider doors quit working. One was just before extended warranty expired, so Toyota fixed it themselves. The other, just after the warranty expired...so that's $1,400 repair bill on me now”

“front drivers side door hinge broke”

“The sliding doors 'gum' up and then fail and need to be replaced”

“Sliding door lock, so it won't slide on hills has been broken almost since day one and no repair or fix is covered. Tired of awful service at toyota on Maui”

“Right-hand power sliding door has broken often (at least 4 times), the remote hasn't worked, both sliding doors freeze shut below 30 degrees f. Currently must use as a manual door”

“Driver's door needed internal repair of $3000”

“This car was equiped with automatic side doors and rear hatch. All three have failed over the past year. Toyota had Service Notices about these failures, but since I do not have my car serviced by the dealer, I never knew until they had expired”

“Door locks failing to respond to auto lock”

“Power sliding door does not shut without a manual assist”

“driver door opens too far, stopper tore loose”

“Drivers door open latch mount completely broke off inside door. Second time this has happened. new frame piece welded in to hold latch. Cost $500”

“The bracket that attaches the door check on the driver's side front door to the inside of the door frame broke causing the door check to completely fall off into the door panel. Could not operate door or windows properly. Cost of repair $2300”

“DORR LOCKS UP AND WILL NOT OPEN”

“As stated before door iron parts ABOVE hinge have broken off three times and $600.00 per time. All this in under 50K miles. Defective and can't hold the weight of the door itself especially on driver's side”

“The motor that opens the rear sliding door failed. Very costly to repair”

“When the temperature gets down around 0 F the sliding doors refuse to open. One must get the van into somewhere warm to have them open”

“Drivers door had a loud pop when opening and closing. Contacted Toyota, but they told me the warranty was expired, even though they knew it was a problem, and also said it would be $1800 to fix. A body shop fixed it for $300 & said they fixed many”

“1) One sliding door is totally inoperable 2) Exterior door handles snap off in cold weather”

“Driver's door does not work properly, will not assist the open, and will not stop opening automatically”

“Driver door welds failed resulting in cracking sounds. Dealer repaired once under warrenty. Thiis year I paid welder. $500 to fix it”

“door stop broke loose inside driver's side door; unable to repair without performing expensive body repairs”

“failure of rear right sliding door to close automatically”

“Dealer found that sliding door cable was bad and replaced it under warranty”

“Driver side door check pocket spot weld failure. Common problem for 2004-07 siennas. Toyota has extended warranty for this problem, but only to 100k miles. I have purchased the car at 101k miles and failure happened @ 104k miles. Est. coast-$3000”

“There was a recall to repair broken welds in the the door hinge pocket. The recall was good till 90,000 miles or so. Of course, my welds broke after the mileage passed and I had to have a body shop repair the welds. Not too expensive - $300”

“Stop on driver's door is broken. Door will swing all the way out if not held back. Door must be replaced for permanent fix. Too expensive”

“Electric sliding door no longer opens even in manual mode. Real problem. We wanted Toyota to make the door into manual operated only and they would not. Very frustrating”

“Sliding doors inoperable particularly in subzero temps. Paid nearly $1000 cdn to fix passenger side and left drivers side slider permently closed because of additional expense”

“Driver door extension door rod detached. Both sliding doors stick in cold weather and often won't open....dangerous”

“The right side sliding door has failed - it will not close on the press of the button. The driver's door hinge failed for the 2nd time and the only fix was to replace the door - the weld failed at the hinge”

“The electric operation of the door failed. A servo latch actuator was defect. Repair cost about $700”

“Stick and unable to,open in winter months...frozen shut due to poor weather seal around door”

“The sliding doors have a complicated lock mechanism with a serious safety defect. A weak internal part bends and then the sliding doors will not open from the inside or outside. Every year the sliding doors require service”

“Door latch is very stiff and hard to pull on. Door hard to close and needs to be slammed”

“Automatic sliding passenger doors have frozen and been unable to open”

“replaced latch mechanism”

“The side doors no longer work electrically, only manually. The rear power door had a recall and it now doesn't work as good as it did before the recall work”

“Both sliding doors stopped working. One was broken cable due to rusting. Other was faulty door closing mechanism”

“Three of four doors needed repair, drivers door stress on hinge plate needed welding (not from an accident) just door weight stress. Automatic openers failed on both rear sliding doors”

“Power door button quit working. Passenger side sliding door jammed altogether and driver side can sometimes be opened but it is very stiff”

“Locking mechanism on driver's side failed. Literally fell apart. Door motor and cable assembly failed, once on each door. Very expensive to replace”

“The cable on the sliding door was worn and the replacement cost was over $1,200 because of labor”

“The middle Inge on the front driver side door is unhook, creating an awful noise and requires replacement at high cost. I considers this a major failure by the manufacturer as it is occurring on similar model”

“The driver's door window wouldn't go up and down properly. My husband ordered the replacement clips that wore out and broke and repaired it himself”

“The drivers seat heater no longer works”

“The auto slider door wouldn't close properly. My husband ordered the part($550) and repaired it himself. Labor would have been >$1000”

“The drivers side rear sliding door will not lock and unlock with the door controls or the key fob. It has to be manually done”

“Purchased in. NY. In 2013 both sliding door mechanisms replaced. In 2014 winter the driver's side sliding door kept freezing up. somehow water gets in over the latch (but not into the interior) and freezes. Would not open, but warning lights said it”

“This again is the handle on sliding doors that wear out after several years use”

“The drivers side seat will sometimes fail to retract when pulled out to put the belt on. It usually happens with a taller driver further from the steering wheel”

“The passenger side seat belt would not retract. A new one was installed. After a couple of weeks it refused to pull out for use. Toyota installed a new one without cost that works just fine”

“The front seat belts sometimes have problems retracting and we have to play with it for awhile to get it to tighten up”

“passenger seat belt jams and will nor retract”

“Sun Roof drains became clogged and had to be reamed out and rubber tubing replaced. This caused a flooding of the floor insulation in the front which got moldy and required removal of all the front insulation. The smell was horrible and took over a year to get rid of”

“The powered hatch in the rear has quit working, so we now have to open and close it manually”

“The pneumatic lifters for the hatch do not always work. The tailgate drops down and whacks you in the head”

“The power lift hatch became loose enough that the safety feature would keep it from working. You can see that it is just a loose bolt, but the dealer wants $2700 to fix it”

“Had to replace tailgate lift arms. Very expensive. Cheaply made”

“Difficult to open and close. Replaced opening tube like part on both sides. Now Very hard to close. Must slam it closed. Dealer says sit is fine but still I strongly disagree”

“The rear hatch supports failed for the second time. I replace them in Nov 2009 and again in Apr 2015”

“Safety recall is outstanding re corrosion of cable that secures the spare tire under the van”

“Both hydraulic lift assists replaced on tailgate”

“Glass came out of retaining bracket”

“They wouldn't release the brakes”

“Caliper seized and dragged disc. Replaced the one caliper”

“Driver side caliper seized ON”

“Left front caliper siezed”

“Calipers leaking brake fluid”

“Brakes were replaced at approximately 82000 miles at a Toyota dealership but soon after started making a grinding noise. We took the Sienna to a different Toyota service center and were told the calipers and pads were installed incorrectly”

“Rotors are worn below wear limits and pads are worn out and vehicle only has 25000 miles”

“frequent wearing out of brake lining”

“Front brakes experienced excessive wear. Rotors needed replacement after only 11,000 miles. For the last several years, premature front brake wear has been a problem, while rear brakes have shown little or no wear at all. Pulsation in front brake”

“The brakes seem too small for a vehicle of this size I believe this leads to premature brake ware on both the pads and rotors”

“Gentle country driving, yet brake pads wore out, in my opinion prematurely”

“replaced”

“Rotors caused shimmy and pulsation, front. Had them turned, relief only for a few months. Eventually caused separated tread in Michelin tire.. Not chicken and egg,Rotors did it”

“Just needed new brakes-was expensive”

“after recent brake job rotors caused vibration upon fast braking”

“The car seems to go through Rotors very fast”

“Stock rotors are not adequate for this vehicle”

“Warping”

“Warping”

“This has been the third time the rotors needed replacement. This vehicle has brake and alignment issues since purchase”

“I get about 3 sets of calipers before a rotor needs to be replaced. Normal wear and tear I would say”

“GO BAR FAST”

“Speaking coming from rear passenger brake. Had rear brakes and drums changed. Squeaky sound returned louder a week later. Will have mechanic look at rear brakes again”

“Sound alerted to problem, Noticeable high temperature near left front wheel”

“The Roters squeak before having them replaced and did the same after being replaced, told they need a brake in time and they will stop squeaking”

“Happened on front brakes and replaced them and then the same thing happened on rear brakes 6 months later”

“squeaking and a serious vibration turned out to be wheel bearings. I didn't see that as an option on your list. Maybe it was normal for the age of the vehicle. I'm not sure”

“brake master cylinder assembly failed and needed replacement”

“don't know what normal brake wear means. my husband Jim died Feb I, 2012 and I had the brakes and rotors replaced because of extreme vibration when coming to a stop”

“after 18 months of use, the break pads make noise”

“I always seem to need new front breaks about every 25,000 miles. I got 85,000 miles on the rear”

“heavy vehicle, brakes wear out a lot faster then expected”

“Changed the pads and rotors on the front--- 1st time”

“Parking brake was rusted away. After replacement it still won't hold the vehicle on a hill”

“There is a recall to replace the c?e of the spar tire since june 2014 and nothing is done. The only thing they suggest is to put the spare tire in the trunc!!!”

“breaks and tires wear quickly”