Toyota Sienna

"Front end alignment seems to be an issue with this van we have worn our front tires premature"

"lower ball joints were leaking"

"boots on the rack-and-pinion were torn and needed to be replaced"

"Took sienna to dealer for Recall items. They said bushings are cracking and urgently need to be replaced. My own mechanic looked at them and said I am OK for now. I will be asking them to monitor their condition when I take it in for service."

"right rear bushing failed due to broken spring"

"We had to replace the power steering rack due to it leaking."

"Steering rack began to leak. Needed to be replaced"

"Boot failure has resulted in damage to the rack and pinon seal"

"This is a constant problem, and Toyota keeps telling me about it. It seems to be a problem in all older Siennas. To me, this is a design flaw, and it costs more than $500 to repair!"

"Slow leak from power steering seals. I do not consider this unusual for this type of vehicle at this mileage"

"A slow seepage which has been present for a couple of years. I have to replace the fluid a little bit more frequently."

"rack and pinion seal leaked power steering fluid"

"Power Steering hoses had to be replace. This was the first time at about 155K mils"

"Power steering rack seal failure. Required unit replacement"

"Power steering package began leaking sometime during this last winter (2014 - 2015)Had to replace the whole package"

"leak of fluid from power steering"

"The ball joints, inside the boot leaks. Have not had fixed yet"

"Found to have power steering leak; had to have it replaced"

"Power steering rack leaks. Needs to be topped up periodically. Repair is ~$1300. So far problem can be managed by replacing fluid."

"Very slow leak was contained by flex coupling until the flex coupling turned to mush. The entire power steering unit had to be replaced for about eight hundred dollars. by the Toyota dealer."

"The firestone mechanic said that the steering rack was leaking and recommended a new rack. I bought and used power steering leakstop and the problem was solved and has not reemerged."

"The car started to smell like burning rubber. We decided to take it in for a check. By the time we got to the dealer, it was very hard to steer. The hose for the power steering fluid had leaked and there was no fluid left."

"Power steering fluid leak"

"pump needed replacement"

"Power steering would quit sporadically. Typically into a longer trip. Make very difficult for our mechanic to diagnose and repair the problem."

"Pump and a hose failed on an extended trip to AZ. Loud grinding noise and damage to the steering pump when fluid leaked out. We went to the dealer in Gallup, AZ. He could not get parts. He said we were OK to drive home."

"After 300,000 km the shocks and struts need a full replacement. Hardly a surprise"

"Just worn out after 13 years and 356000 km, pretty good actually"

"Front shock struts both leaked fluid in very cold weather."

"My problem with the struts & shocks was I did not have to replace the OEM parts until 206000 miles of long trips with near maximum cargo weight. UNBELIEVABLE!"

"Replaced by dealer just for age of car, no obvious issues."

"The ride was a lot rougher and clunkier."

"Rear shocks leaking"

"Were all worn, one was leaking and had to be replaced"

"Our Sienna is a Braun Rampvan. It's significantly heavier but uses the OEM shocks. They wear out faster than they should. They should've specified heavier duty shocks for the extra vehicle weight"

"Some rust at top of front shocks"

"Normal wear on an 11-year old van"

"Replaced struts due to their age. New struts aren't as firm as old ones"

"strut was leaking on front driver side. Rough ride, noisy suspension. Had repaired, was without vehicle for two days"

"Front Struts Aug 2016 & Sway Bars and Rear Shocks Feb 2017"

"Rear shocks (original equipment) began to leak, causing rougher ride and some leaning on turns. Replaced them. No problems now"

"Mechanic determined shocks needed to be replaced from normal wear/tear and they were replaced."

"The struts had to be replaces at about 175,000 miles due to wear. The vehicle was still drivable."

"shocks wore out. to be expected on 14 year old car and over 200k miles"

"Struts leaking, had to be replaced"

"Front and rear struts started leaking and needed to be replaced. I replaced them using aftermarket struts, which led to a repeat repair of the rear struts"

"repair rack and pinion boot, leaking fluid"

"oil leak on one of the struts"

"Vehicle ride is rough feel every crack and bump in pavement. Found a leaking left front strut. Replaced all four due to mileage at a cost of $1,000. Ride did not improve as a result of the repair"

"Struts mountings were rusting. I consider this normal wear and tear st 150000 miles."

"I replaced the original struts at 100k and the second set at 170k"

"Broken front strut. Not bad for 185000 miles."

"Rear springs replaced as they very worn. Total cost of replacement was $120 CDN. Brother is a mechanic and replacement was my Christmas present."

"Rear spring broke."

"broken right rear spring"

"broken rear coil spring"

"Coil spring broke. Replaced both front springs and torsion bars. This is the only major repair in the 10 years we have owned the vehicle"

"Rear driver side spring broke, causing extreme uneven tire wear."

"One of the rear springs broke"

"Researched problem areas for the 2006 Toyota Sienna on the internet about a year ago. Read that this was a common problem for that model year. I had the linkage checked out with my mechanic and the vehicle had that problem (leakage from the steering control unit which cost $990 to repair). Fixed it before vehicle would become disabled."

"torn boots needed replacement"

"Rack & Pinion were replaced because my mechanic said they needed to be replaced. There were no noticeable symptoms."

"Leakage"

"The rack started leaking at 67,000 miles. I don't find this acceptable. There is no visible damage to the boots at the end where they are leaking, just a steady drip. Next year it likely won't pass state inspection"

"Have not repaired yet"

"Dealer told me of the problem and gave me an estimate. I instead took car to a long-established repair shop who did the work and even charged me less than what he had estimated that it would cost . He saved me about $500"

"steering gear had to be replaced due to leaking at several joints"

"Worn linkages, needed replacement"

"leakage"

"Replaced power steering rack due to a fluid leak"

"Engine gave a whining sound when the car started, especially in cold weather. This was due to a fluid leak within the rack and pinion steering. We put a hole in the boot to drain the accumulating fluid and the whining noise has gone away. The steering functions fine"

"Replaced the rack and pinion"

"Had to replace steering gear box. Fluid leak"

"Replaced rack and pinion with refurbished one"

"Seepage of steering fluid from the Steering Rack"

"The steering linkage became quite loose which required replacing the entire unit."

"Fluid leak due to wear."

"It aged out according to mechanic."

"Cv joint boot leak."

"rack & Pinion boots wore out cracked needed replacement"

"I had a leak from the Sienna and it was determined that the Sienna needed a new steering rack. Job completed 4/17/2015. It also needed a new water pump"

"The rack and pinion was shot.. leaking seals and worn out tie rods"

"Had an expensive > $1000 repair bill to fix the rack and pinion steering"

"Power steering fluid leak"

"Had to replace the gear and rear main engine seal"

"A seal went bad resulting in a massive leak in the rack and pinion steering"

"Steering rack and pinion boot was leaking. Dealer recommended replacement. I suppose it could have been caused by road debris. Never had that issue on any vehicle before"

"According to the Toyota dealership service department, all-wheel drive Sienna's are generally tough on the steering linkage"

"Rack & pinion was leaking. Replaced"

"replaced rack and pinion"

"Torn Boot from hitting something on the highway. Had to replace the entire unit...cannot replace just the boot"

"had fluid leakage. Would not pass inspection"

"Sienna steering rack boot failure prior to 60,000 miles - very expensive repairs which also resulted in unnecessary expense of replacing timing belt and a wheel alignment"

"very expensive to replace, part is $1500 in CA and only $702 in US Toyota is ripping Canadians off, same part #"

"rack and pinion was worn and had to be replaced"

"didn't know I had the problem until the dealer's repair department told me I did when car was in for routine maintenance. I accepted their assessment and paid approx. 1100.00 for the repair. I have wondered ever since if I really needed those repairs"

"When it is very cold, the steering locks up. Flushing the fluid helped a bit, but the mechanic still doesn't understand what exactly was going on"

"The steering was "notchy" when cold. Toyota has a service bulletin on the problem but the cost to repair was paid by the owner even though this could be a safety issue. Replacement of the steering shaft assy resolves the problem at over $200"

"The steering rack was leaking and I had to pay $1200 to have it replaced. This seems to happen to many Siennas that were built around 2006 and 2007"

"Steering Rack Actuators Leaking. Replaced rack."

"alway felt a steering vibration on this vehicle"

"Reported knocking noise from left front. Dealer replaced stabilizer link assembly"

"I was getting poor miles from my tires. I needed an alignment. I needed to replace a tie rod and wheel bearing in order to align the front end. My 90000 mile tires had only lasted 60000 miles"

"Both side inner tie rods need replacement"

"tie rods were worn and had to be replaced"

"Tires wear quickly. Wondering if manufacturer specifications are too narrow"

"The car easily fall out of alignment"

"The tires wear down rapidly and the car moves from side to side without provocation. The issues may be related. We have replaced tires four times on the car with high end tires each time. The car needs new tires now"

"Last summer our front right tire started going seriously bald. When we took the van to a ship, Mavis, they diagnosed the problem as alignment. We received the alignment and obtained 4 new tires. The van needed a new alignment within a week, but has s"

"We have never gotten more than 20,000 miles out of a set of tires. The tires appear to be too small for the vehicle and wear improperly. The outer edge of the tire wears very quickly"

"The tires never wear evening despite frequently adjusting alignment. The tires always wear out well short of the tread life"

"Alignment issue"

"Balance and rotation. Easy fix for $40"

"I took it into the dealership several times, as I was experiencing wheel balance issues. Even after several balancing I was still having the problem. I put 4 new tires on the van, and still the same problem. I thought I could hear a noise from the ri"

"Dealer quoted to replace front wheel bearings for $1,600 and an independent quoted $650 for the repair. Ended up doing it myself for approx. $300."

"replace left rear wheel bearing, front left and right control arms, alignment - $2600CAD"

"light whirring sound getting progressively worse over 10,000 miles; hard to identify the offending wheel; when it became possible, it cost $750."

"Needed to be replaced on both sides, caused lots of vibration"

"Maybe wear and tear, but also could be result of hitting curb. Both front bearings replaced"

"Rear wheel bearing required, replacement"

"Wheel bearing started making noise and continued to get worse until it was very annoying. Of course van has 160K miles on it so that was not a huge unexpected problemm"

"Probably normal wear and tear - 225000 miles in, left front wheel bearing wore out and needed to be replaced."

"Replaced the rear wheel bearings, which were making noise"

"I needed an alignment. I needed to replace a tie rod and wheel bearing in order to align the front end. I expected the tie rod to be replaced. I was not expecting the wheel bearing to be in such bad condition"

"noisy went turning"

"high mileage vehicle; front steering components and wheel bearings needed replacement. Not catastrophic"

"Drive cable frayed and caused door to stick. Cables removed from both doors; they only operate manually now"

"The automatic passenger side door motor stopped working. The repair was quoted at approximately $1,500, so we chose not to repair it and are using the door manually"

"power sliding door stopped working. had to be disconnected to open and close manually"

"Motor of passenger sider rear door has been broken for a number of years. One would think that Toyota would consider this major safety issue"

"Power sliding door cable has broken. Door still works manually"

"Motorized doors failed"

"automatic sliding door has failed. Door cannot open. Uncertain repair estimate at this time"

"Automatic sliding door stopped working and had major cost $2K to correct"

"The automatic sliding door opener stopped working. We had to switch the system to "manual open" so that we could use the door, but it is very heavy to open and sometimes will not open from the inside. Quite frustrating. We took it to the dealer to get a repair estimate but after taking many hours to figure out what was wrong, they decided that the problem was just that we had switched to door to "manual open." We were not happy with them keeping the van for so long and lying to us about how"

"sliding door stuck"

"slideing door malfunction"

"Doors occasionally don't operate correctly and always don't seal well, causing air leaks, causing wind noise right behind the ears of both front passengers!"

"Sliding door mechanisms both failed and only partially covered under warranty and then only after several calls to head office. Overall very dissatisfied with Toyota and would not recommend after litany of problems and very poor customer service"

"The cable that pulls the automatic sliding door snapped and the automatic sliding door no longer works"

"One of the automatic side doors stopped working completely and cannot be opened"

"Automatic sliding door feature no longer functions on its own, has to be yanked before it engages"

"Had problem with power sliding door during third year. Had problem with second power sliding door at year 11. Cut the cables instead of repairing"

"No longer motorized opening, very difficult to manually open & close! Close unpredictably has trapped me. Extremely expensive to fix 2000 + for each side door ! The stopped functioning about a month apart !"

"The sliding doors are a constant problem but I think it is because we drive on dirt roads. We finally disable the electronic closing door mechanism and will see if that makes a difference."

"Sliding door operation slow or even stops working. Door lock broken"

"One of the power sliding doors acted erratically and then quit working. We did some research and determined that the pulley for the cable that moves the doors had likely broken. We bought the part and replaced it ourselves in a day, but it was a significant project. The other door has recently started acting similarly, so we will likely need to do it this year."

"The passenger side sliding door is an automatic door. At one point when we were 100 miles from home after dark, the door opened, but would not close. The cable that moves the door jumped off a pulley or jammed and would not close. Even pulling on the door would not move it. Since I could not drive home with the door open, I tried moving the door back and forth with a strong push. Eventually I was able to get the door closed. Toyota wanted to charge me over $2000.00 to take the door off and replace what had broken. I asked if they could just disconnect the cable so I could operate it as a manual door. They said it would still cost almost as much because they would still have to remove the door. I think that charge is exorbitant and so the door remains broken."

"Right side sliding door does not unlock/unclick out of its position to start sliding. The problem is not fixed yet due to low usage of this door. I will YouTube it first, then maybe bring it to a dealer if I can't fix it."

"Auto sliding door stopped working - broken cable. Continue to use manually."

"Driver's side door check strap welds have failed, creating a loud popping sound when the door is used. Toyota will not fix this problem. hhttp://www.toyotanation.com/forum/274-2nd-generation-2004-2010/369282-sienna-driver-door-clicking-noise.html"

"Reweld inner door check box"

"powered passenger sliding door failed to open or close"

"The passenger side electric door will almost close then re-open. We have to help is close sometimes"

"The driver's side sliding door motorized function failed. Motor still sounds as if it is going, but the door must be operated manually"

"Stopped working left side and needed to replace all electric harness & motor"

"Sliding door stopped opening upon activation of all power buttons. Toyota dealer misdiagnosed the issue and cost me $1,000 for their mistake. I found the solution, online for a $50"

"Auto sliding door cable broke costing $1700 to fix. We choose to cut the cable and slide the door manually"

"Sliding door cable assembly defective and door would not close. Manufacturer replaced cable assembly under warranty"

"Power door no longer operational as such. Can be forcibly opened manually. Toyota refused to cover with the added warranty. They said one of the motors has gone bad"

"The passenger side automatic sliding door stopped working. I was told it would cost about $1200 to make it start working again. I asked that the automatic feature be disconnected. That cost about $250"

"Sliding Door mechanism failed"

"powered, right side rear sliding door functions only manually, cannot be opened from inside"

"Door stop latch broke - quoted over $600 to repair!"

"I was Home Depot. Sliding door would not close; cable had become tangled up. I did not want to drive with door open. I found a way to unhook one terminal end of cable so I could close door. Repair cost $1250. Toyota has not reimbursed"

"Passenger sliding door mechanism malfunction such that the handle must be held while activating the auto-close for the first inch of travel. There is a safety release that's not working"

"The power door cable broke and would not allow the door to function. The repair was over $2200"

"The electric sliding door gave out just 3 weeks ago--a wire broke and is hanging down the back right side of the van"

"REATTACHED LATCH CABLE ON LEFT SLIDING DOOR"

"Hinge broke on sliding door on drivers side"

"2nd repair to power sliding door"

"Passenger power door lock motor failed. This is the power device embedded in the door which automatically disengages the door latch when invoked by the remote, pushing the interior power sliding door buttons on the driver overhead console or B-pillar"

"Both sliding doors have been repaired multiple times. This year was another repair for each door. 1 electrical and 1 mechanical roller assembly. Very costly and a long time to repair due delays in ordering parts"

"Driver side door, a weld failed for the door check restraint system that limits how far the door will open"

"cable is fraying and door struggles to open and close"

"Automatic door cables broke on both side doors"

"Driver's side Sliding Door Cable delaminated and caused door to jam. Had to have the entire sliding door cable system replaced"

"Front door welds failed. Repaired just in time under a secret 5-year warranty. Power right side door also failed and repaired under another secret warranty"

"Previously covered, discussing the interior door panels getting stuck, left and right front, on the black rubber gaskets around the door openings"

"The cable and motor failed on the passenger sliding door. Toyota wouldn't warranty even though there are many complaints online about the sliding door. I spent $400 on motor, one month later the cable broke adn they want $1100 to fix cable"

"Drivers side rear sliding door uses coated cable for motorized door. Coating started splintering and would jam up works. Eventually had to cut cable to shut dooor to drive to dealer. They did fix it for free"

"We have had the drivers door replaced twice due to hinge (first time under warranty and subsequently on our cost) malfunctions and now the hinges are broken again and we need it done another time"

"The Cables that attached to both sliding rear doors to provide power door ability malfunctioned and broke. Driver rear door hinge and locking mechanism replaced; passenger rear door locking mechanism replaced"

"Locking mechanism does not work correctly. Does not open or close remotely anymore. Requires someone to pull handle. Too expensive to repair"

"Sliding door mechanism broke and was asked $6000 to fix, now door is non-functional"

"Hinges bent, and electric motor quit. About $1500 to repair"

"One slider failed -- warrantee covered replacement of cable/motor. Other slider failed and Toyota would not fix/replace. The "fixed" door now fails to latch about 50% of the time"

"Both sliding doors have a locking motor that has stopped working, thus requiring the replacement of the entire 5-motor assembly, which were quoted at >$1200 EACH"

"One of the sliding doors does not work. Have to manually open and close the door"

"Door motors and cables worn out. Very costly to fix around $2000"

"The driver side passenger door had the cable snap. Because of the anticipated expense, we now just use it manually rather than having it repaired at the dealer.."

"One of the sliding doors will not open from the outside handle, it will only open from the inside button or with the key fob. If you try to open it by the handle it will read as door open until you open and close it with another method."

"Passenger door's 'door check' stop that is there to stop the door from swinging all the way open to keep it from swinging wide to hit an adjacent parked car when you get out, has failed so the door on its own is out of control. It is a big problem with my new total left knee replacement. It is harder getting in and out, so having to also control the door is quite difficult. Toyota had a recall notice on it, but limited time only. Because I only drive 2000 miles per year, the door did not get enough use to fail within the recall fix limit. It is a broken weld to the door and requires re-welding and then re-painting the door. This is a major inconvenience."

"locking mechanism on drivers side sliding door froze and caused the doorhandles to break off when attempting to open it"

"The latch release mechanism on BOTH sliding doors failed within the last 12 months"

"Latch jams and sticks."

"The driver's side mirror is broken. It works somewhat but makes a constant grinding, whirring noise. We have not had it repaired because it would cost about $1,ooo! for a mirror!"

"remote mirror control does not work - motor in mirror broken"

"Both right and left outside mirrors have play in them -- they move when the door is shut so you have to reach out and reposition them by hand"

"This was my fault. I brought in our trash can that 's on wheels and came to close to the driver's side mirror and it partially broke off. I took it to our service station and they screwed it back on the door with several screws and it continued to work fine."

"Driver and front passenger seatbelts stick in retractors and can't be used without freeing them with pliers"

"Driver side seat belt became jammed and would not retract last year. Had to be replaced. Cost about $300 for the repair. Very discouraging"

"Seat belt will not recognize connectivity when using Toyota extension"

"Seat Belt broke and had to be fixed"

"Rear right will not fasten without pushing in button with finger and then releasing it to engage."

"It stuck open and cost $2500 to get fixed, which I think was a ripoff by the dealer!"

"The latch cover on the tailgate melted and leaves black residue on you hand. It would cost hundreds to replace it"

"The tailgate does not seal properly, allowing rain to leak into the cargo area"

"Auto close stopped working, something has come loose or broken but the final draw-down still works, most of the time"

"hatch does not stay open all the way up"

"In the last few years the lift struts for the rear Lift Gate door has weakened so that the rear door is harder to lift up and then does not stay fully open so it hits my head. ALSO the rear Lift Gate door has leaked water into the cargo area during heavy rains even when parked. I recently had the rubber seal that goes completely around the door replaced, and it cost about $300.00"

"When I push button to open tailgate it often only partly opens, then I have to push it shut and try again. Other possible problem:2 recalls on the cable that holds up the spare tire, Actually ours has been OK"

"tailgate will not extend up the full range in winter"

"Hatch lifters failed"

"Automatic tailgate has ceased to close. It will swing down under motor power, but refused to latch and then reopens. Must be manually closed"

"air struts holding up the hatch have reduced capacity to hold the weight, occasionally slams the hatch down"

"The rubber seal surrounding the tailgate release melted to the point that it was dripping on the on the paint and bumper."

"rear vent window motor not opening window"

"Drivers side window track twisted. Window was binding. Eventually ceased operation"

"Rear ABS sensor failed. That requires complete replacement of wheel bearing assembly"

"leaking"

"may have been shoddy work by Just Brakes, but calipers were rubbing on disk causing everything to wear out faster and terrible squeeking for months while I kept taking it back to teh shop"

"driver side caliper seized causing vibration and over heating of pad and damaging the rotor"

"Calipers seized up and wouldn't release"

"They got stuck while we were out of town and they made an awful, awful grinding sound. We almost left the van with a repair shop and borrowed a car but since it was all highway driving we drove it 3 hours home. We ended up having to replace the rot"

"Master cylinder leaking and low peddle"

"Toyota diagnosed as Brake actuator problem which affected stability control & ABS system indicator problem lights. Self replaced brake switch under brake pedal - no more indicator lights or errors detected"

"Brake pads & rotors replaced due to normal wear/tear."

"Mechanic determined brake pads needed to be replaced from normal wear/tear and they were replaced."

"Brake Line failure, rusted User this oportunity To do overall brake maintenance"

"same as above, just seems to wear out so much more quickly than other vehicles (passenger cars) than others I've owned"

"Need to check next service if brakes are needing replacement"

"Brake pads replaced and rotors turned"

"see previous comments"

"routine brake maintenance"

"Had to replace rear brakes. Normalwear"

"Brake pad worn almost to bare metal without warning signal"

"Replaced break pads"

"replaced front & rear pads & rotors"

"Replace brakes to often on this van"

"Normal break wear at 43000 miles replace pads and rotors. no real safety issue"

"replaced the brake disk pads"

"Brakes got soft. Replaced some parts during routine check."

"Parking break system rusted out and froze. Brake is not usable"

"parking brake often needs adjustment"

"I can drive all over town before realizing the parking brake is still on. I had new ones installed and I still have the bad habit of not noticing when the brake is on and driving down the street so this set is losing effectiveness as well"

"Rear backing plates needed to be replaced. Also as a preventive measure due to vehicle age, had brake shoe/linings and wheel bearings replaced since parts accessible"

"Seized and had to have the complete parking brake system replaced"

"Locking up and not releasing fully causing premature failure"

"Been changing pads and/or rotors pretty much yearly on this vehicle but not on others and I'm a pretty gentle driver! Dealer things nothing of it, independent repair shop things it's crazy and doesn't have an explanation. The only brake job which actually lasted was one I did myself with higher quality 3rd-party parts. The Toyota parts are garbage."

"This vehicle wears brakes really fast and warps rotors. I've put on the best pads and largest heavy duty rotors (same as Tundra) and they are still a problem."

"The brakes on one side keep wearing out too quickly. They replaced the brakes a number of times and replaced the calipers with high quality ones, but the problem still persists"

"From 2 years in, premature brake wear has been a significant and costly problem. Was covered under warranty 2 years in after I complained that the wear vs. kilometers was out of line but I needed to push to get them to cover it. Since then, it's been an ongoing problem. Finally went to aftermarket solution that seems to be working better"

"Seems like we have to do the brakes every 18 months, and that adds up"

"Inner brake pad on drivers side wore at twice the rate of the outside pad"

"This Van goes through tires and breaks incredibly quickly, Everything else has been reliable except the automatic doors were a big problem on this vehicle"

"Practically every time took in to dealer for routine maintenance either the discs or pads needed replacement as well. Finally changed calipers and discs myself and they have been much better, but still wear a little quickly. Think brakes are a little undersized for vehicle."

"The calipers were sticking causing the rotors to warp. Replacing pads, calipers several times at a third party repair shop (Goodyear) did not fix the problem. Apparently a brake line hose was partially clogged. No problems since replacement."

"We don't drive the van that much. We are told by the Toyota service reps that this can cause the brakes to rust and wear out sooner??? We drive the our vehicles gently. For whatever reason, we have had the brakes on the van repaired or replaced at least four time during the past 10 years. This seems excessive and is expensive. We never felt there was a serious safety issue with the brakes, just a change in performance."

"Pulsation / vibration while stopping, especially harder stops. I had the rotors replaced, and it started happening again within a few months. I believe it was a bad brake job I had had done at about 60,000 miles. Recently had the front brakes totally done, including rotors, pads and calipers. This was too soon to tell if I will have any similar problems, although I suspect not (never had the pulsation/vibration problem until the brakes were redone a few years ago."

"I bought my 2006 Sienna new at a Toyota dealership. I have always had a problem with the front brakes requiring them to be changed at about 40,000 miles on average. The problem is with vibration coming from the front rotors when braking on a downhill incline. The rotors and front brake pads have been replaced about 4 times in 160,000 miles. It's always the same problem, the vibration from the front rotors. The rotors just seem to be made out of cheap steel that warps easily and requires replacement every 40,000 miles."

"Brake pad worn almost to bare metal without warning signal"

"Brakes were substandard from the day the vehicle was purchased. Multiple trips to the dealer with no satisfactory results. In 2011, Toyota upgraded the front brakes to a twin-piston caliper. I ended up having to fix the problem myself by retrofitting a 2011 twin-piston caliper to my 2006 vehicle. Brakes now work well."

"I have had the rotors replaced three times. First when the brakes were redone at Les Schwab. Then twice since then. Never had any problems with the rotors previous to the Les Schwab brake job. Recently, had front brakes totally redone (new pads, rotors and calipers), so hopefully will not have that issue any more (this time repairs done at another garage, Jeff's Auto in Edmonds, WA"

"I already described this in the previous note about the brakes. Rotors seem to be made out of a cheap steel that warps easily and requires replacement after only about 40,000 miles."

"vibration when applying brakes. rotors were warped and stuck on the hubs."

"Chatting with heavy braking. Especially when going down a steep grade"

"Stops felt unsafe. Stops at high speed seem to have quickly worn down the rotors and made them wear prematurely. Stops still seem unsafe and long at high rates of speed"

"Not really a problem, just normal wear & tear"

"Regular maintenance I think. Brake pads and rotors were rusty and worn and had to be replaced"

"One front and one rear rotor warped. Could be standard wear issue"

"Rotors have a tendency to warp too easily, in my opinion"

"excessive rust"

"Since having new front brakes there has been squeaking from my brakes. First time problem was diagnosed as a rear brake hanging up. It was fixed, but the problem still exists. Not a safety issue but is very annoying"

"Brakes squeak when backing up. Dealership claims moisture collection even though it happens after being backed out of an attached garage and auto has been enclosed for over 24 hours"

"Brakes squeak loudly and noticeably when wet or when the air conditioner is on at the same time as I am going in reverse"

"We had some work done to our vehicle about 18 months ago. Almost immediately we had squeaking and noises on backing out of the garage until the brakes warmed up. After 12 months, they squeaked going forward as well. We took it to the Toyota dealer"