Toyota Sienna Change Vehicle

“lower ball joints were leaking”

“rack and pinion seal leaked power steering fluid”

“Power Steering hoses had to be replace. This was the first time at about 155K mils”

“Power steering rack seal failure. Required unit replacement”

“Power steering package began leaking sometime during this last winter (2014 - 2015)Had to replace the whole package”

“leak of fluid from power steering”

“The ball joints, inside the boot leaks. Have not had fixed yet”

“Found to have power steering leak; had to have it replaced”

“Steering rack began to leak. Needed to be replaced”

“Boot failure has resulted in damage to the rack and pinon seal”

“This is a constant problem, and Toyota keeps telling me about it. It seems to be a problem in all older Siennas. To me, this is a design flaw, and it costs more than $500 to repair!”

“Slow leak from power steering seals. I do not consider this unusual for this type of vehicle at this mileage”

“Power steering fluid leak”

“pump needed replacement”

“Struts leaking, had to be replaced”

“Front and rear struts started leaking and needed to be replaced. I replaced them using aftermarket struts, which led to a repeat repair of the rear struts”

“repair rack and pinion boot, leaking fluid”

“oil leak on one of the struts”

“Vehicle ride is rough feel every crack and bump in pavement. Found a leaking left front strut. Replaced all four due to mileage at a cost of $1,000. Ride did not improve as a result of the repair”

“Rear shocks leaking”

“Were all worn, one was leaking and had to be replaced”

“Our Sienna is a Braun Rampvan. It's significantly heavier but uses the OEM shocks. They wear out faster than they should. They should've specified heavier duty shocks for the extra vehicle weight”

“Some rust at top of front shocks”

“Normal wear on an 11-year old van”

“Replaced struts due to their age. New struts aren't as firm as old ones”

“strut was leaking on front driver side. Rough ride, noisy suspension. Had repaired, was without vehicle for two days”

“Front Struts Aug 2016 & Sway Bars and Rear Shocks Feb 2017”

“Rear shocks (original equipment) began to leak, causing rougher ride and some leaning on turns. Replaced them. No problems now”

“broken rear coil spring”

“Coil spring broke. Replaced both front springs and torsion bars. This is the only major repair in the 10 years we have owned the vehicle”

“I had a leak from the Sienna and it was determined that the Sienna needed a new steering rack. Job completed 4/17/2015. It also needed a new water pump”

“The rack and pinion was shot.. leaking seals and worn out tie rods”

“Had an expensive > $1000 repair bill to fix the rack and pinion steering”

“Power steering fluid leak”

“Had to replace the gear and rear main engine seal”

“A seal went bad resulting in a massive leak in the rack and pinion steering”

“Steering rack and pinion boot was leaking. Dealer recommended replacement. I suppose it could have been caused by road debris. Never had that issue on any vehicle before”

“According to the Toyota dealership service department, all-wheel drive Sienna's are generally tough on the steering linkage”

“Rack & pinion was leaking. Replaced”

“replaced rack and pinion”

“Torn Boot from hitting something on the highway. Had to replace the entire unit...cannot replace just the boot”

“had fluid leakage. Would not pass inspection”

“Sienna steering rack boot failure prior to 60,000 miles - very expensive repairs which also resulted in unnecessary expense of replacing timing belt and a wheel alignment”

“very expensive to replace, part is $1500 in CA and only $702 in US Toyota is ripping Canadians off, same part #”

“rack and pinion was worn and had to be replaced”

“didn't know I had the problem until the dealer's repair department told me I did when car was in for routine maintenance. I accepted their assessment and paid approx. 1100.00 for the repair. I have wondered ever since if I really needed those repairs”

“When it is very cold, the steering locks up. Flushing the fluid helped a bit, but the mechanic still doesn't understand what exactly was going on”

“The steering was "notchy" when cold. Toyota has a service bulletin on the problem but the cost to repair was paid by the owner even though this could be a safety issue. Replacement of the steering shaft assy resolves the problem at over $200”

“Leakage”

“The rack started leaking at 67,000 miles. I don't find this acceptable. There is no visible damage to the boots at the end where they are leaking, just a steady drip. Next year it likely won't pass state inspection”

“Have not repaired yet”

“Dealer told me of the problem and gave me an estimate. I instead took car to a long-established repair shop who did the work and even charged me less than what he had estimated that it would cost . He saved me about $500”

“steering gear had to be replaced due to leaking at several joints”

“Worn linkages, needed replacement”

“leakage”

“Replaced power steering rack due to a fluid leak”

“Engine gave a whining sound when the car started, especially in cold weather. This was due to a fluid leak within the rack and pinion steering. We put a hole in the boot to drain the accumulating fluid and the whining noise has gone away. The steering functions fine”

“Replaced the rack and pinion”

“Had to replace steering gear box. Fluid leak”

“Replaced rack and pinion with refurbished one”

“Seepage of steering fluid from the Steering Rack”

“alway felt a steering vibration on this vehicle”

“Reported knocking noise from left front. Dealer replaced stabilizer link assembly”

“I was getting poor miles from my tires. I needed an alignment. I needed to replace a tie rod and wheel bearing in order to align the front end. My 90000 mile tires had only lasted 60000 miles”

“Both side inner tie rods need replacement”

“tie rods were worn and had to be replaced”

“The tires wear down rapidly and the car moves from side to side without provocation. The issues may be related. We have replaced tires four times on the car with high end tires each time. The car needs new tires now”

“Last summer our front right tire started going seriously bald. When we took the van to a ship, Mavis, they diagnosed the problem as alignment. We received the alignment and obtained 4 new tires. The van needed a new alignment within a week, but has s”

“We have never gotten more than 20,000 miles out of a set of tires. The tires appear to be too small for the vehicle and wear improperly. The outer edge of the tire wears very quickly”

“The tires never wear evening despite frequently adjusting alignment. The tires always wear out well short of the tread life”

“Alignment issue”

“Tires wear quickly. Wondering if manufacturer specifications are too narrow”

“The car easily fall out of alignment”

“I took it into the dealership several times, as I was experiencing wheel balance issues. Even after several balancing I was still having the problem. I put 4 new tires on the van, and still the same problem. I thought I could hear a noise from the ri”

“Balance and rotation. Easy fix for $40”

“Replaced the rear wheel bearings, which were making noise”

“I needed an alignment. I needed to replace a tie rod and wheel bearing in order to align the front end. I expected the tie rod to be replaced. I was not expecting the wheel bearing to be in such bad condition”

“noisy went turning”

“Needed to be replaced on both sides, caused lots of vibration”

“Maybe wear and tear, but also could be result of hitting curb. Both front bearings replaced”

“Rear wheel bearing required, replacement”

“The passenger side electric door will almost close then re-open. We have to help is close sometimes”

“The driver's side sliding door motorized function failed. Motor still sounds as if it is going, but the door must be operated manually”

“Stopped working left side and needed to replace all electric harness & motor”

“Sliding door stopped opening upon activation of all power buttons. Toyota dealer misdiagnosed the issue and cost me $1,000 for their mistake. I found the solution, online for a $50”

“Auto sliding door cable broke costing $1700 to fix. We choose to cut the cable and slide the door manually”

“Sliding door cable assembly defective and door would not close. Manufacturer replaced cable assembly under warranty”

“Power door no longer operational as such. Can be forcibly opened manually. Toyota refused to cover with the added warranty. They said one of the motors has gone bad”

“The passenger side automatic sliding door stopped working. I was told it would cost about $1200 to make it start working again. I asked that the automatic feature be disconnected. That cost about $250”

“Sliding Door mechanism failed”

“powered, right side rear sliding door functions only manually, cannot be opened from inside”

“Door stop latch broke - quoted over $600 to repair!”

“I was Home Depot. Sliding door would not close; cable had become tangled up. I did not want to drive with door open. I found a way to unhook one terminal end of cable so I could close door. Repair cost $1250. Toyota has not reimbursed”

“Passenger sliding door mechanism malfunction such that the handle must be held while activating the auto-close for the first inch of travel. There is a safety release that's not working”

“The power door cable broke and would not allow the door to function. The repair was over $2200”

“The electric sliding door gave out just 3 weeks ago--a wire broke and is hanging down the back right side of the van”

“REATTACHED LATCH CABLE ON LEFT SLIDING DOOR”

“Hinge broke on sliding door on drivers side”

“2nd repair to power sliding door”

“Passenger power door lock motor failed. This is the power device embedded in the door which automatically disengages the door latch when invoked by the remote, pushing the interior power sliding door buttons on the driver overhead console or B-pillar”

“Both sliding doors have been repaired multiple times. This year was another repair for each door. 1 electrical and 1 mechanical roller assembly. Very costly and a long time to repair due delays in ordering parts”

“Driver side door, a weld failed for the door check restraint system that limits how far the door will open”

“cable is fraying and door struggles to open and close”

“Automatic door cables broke on both side doors”

“Driver's side Sliding Door Cable delaminated and caused door to jam. Had to have the entire sliding door cable system replaced”

“Front door welds failed. Repaired just in time under a secret 5-year warranty. Power right side door also failed and repaired under another secret warranty”

“Previously covered, discussing the interior door panels getting stuck, left and right front, on the black rubber gaskets around the door openings”

“The cable and motor failed on the passenger sliding door. Toyota wouldn't warranty even though there are many complaints online about the sliding door. I spent $400 on motor, one month later the cable broke adn they want $1100 to fix cable”

“Drivers side rear sliding door uses coated cable for motorized door. Coating started splintering and would jam up works. Eventually had to cut cable to shut dooor to drive to dealer. They did fix it for free”

“We have had the drivers door replaced twice due to hinge (first time under warranty and subsequently on our cost) malfunctions and now the hinges are broken again and we need it done another time”

“The Cables that attached to both sliding rear doors to provide power door ability malfunctioned and broke. Driver rear door hinge and locking mechanism replaced; passenger rear door locking mechanism replaced”

“Locking mechanism does not work correctly. Does not open or close remotely anymore. Requires someone to pull handle. Too expensive to repair”

“Sliding door mechanism broke and was asked $6000 to fix, now door is non-functional”

“Hinges bent, and electric motor quit. About $1500 to repair”

“One slider failed -- warrantee covered replacement of cable/motor. Other slider failed and Toyota would not fix/replace. The "fixed" door now fails to latch about 50% of the time”

“Both sliding doors have a locking motor that has stopped working, thus requiring the replacement of the entire 5-motor assembly, which were quoted at >$1200 EACH”

“One of the sliding doors does not work. Have to manually open and close the door”

“One of the sliding doors stopped working. We can't even get it open manually”

“Drive cable frayed and caused door to stick. Cables removed from both doors; they only operate manually now”

“The automatic passenger side door motor stopped working. The repair was quoted at approximately $1,500, so we chose not to repair it and are using the door manually”

“power sliding door stopped working. had to be disconnected to open and close manually”

“Motor of passenger sider rear door has been broken for a number of years. One would think that Toyota would consider this major safety issue”

“Power sliding door cable has broken. Door still works manually”

“Motorized doors failed”

“automatic sliding door has failed. Door cannot open. Uncertain repair estimate at this time”

“Automatic sliding door stopped working and had major cost $2K to correct”

“The automatic sliding door opener stopped working. We had to switch the system to "manual open" so that we could use the door, but it is very heavy to open and sometimes will not open from the inside. Quite frustrating. We took it to the dealer to get a repair estimate but after taking many hours to figure out what was wrong, they decided that the problem was just that we had switched to door to "manual open." We were not happy with them keeping the van for so long and lying to us about how”

“sliding door stuck”

“slideing door malfunction”

“Doors occasionally don't operate correctly and always don't seal well, causing air leaks, causing wind noise right behind the ears of both front passengers!”

“Sliding door mechanisms both failed and only partially covered under warranty and then only after several calls to head office. Overall very dissatisfied with Toyota and would not recommend after litany of problems and very poor customer service”

“The cable that pulls the automatic sliding door snapped and the automatic sliding door no longer works”

“One of the automatic side doors stopped working completely and cannot be opened”

“Automatic sliding door feature no longer functions on its own, has to be yanked before it engages”

“Had problem with power sliding door during third year. Had problem with second power sliding door at year 11. Cut the cables instead of repairing”

“No longer motorized opening, very difficult to manually open & close! Close unpredictably has trapped me. Extremely expensive to fix 2000 + for each side door ! The stopped functioning about a month apart !”

“The latch release mechanism on BOTH sliding doors failed within the last 12 months”

“Both right and left outside mirrors have play in them -- they move when the door is shut so you have to reach out and reposition them by hand”

“The driver's side mirror is broken. It works somewhat but makes a constant grinding, whirring noise. We have not had it repaired because it would cost about $1,ooo! for a mirror!”

“Driver and front passenger seatbelts stick in retractors and can't be used without freeing them with pliers”

“Driver side seat belt became jammed and would not retract last year. Had to be replaced. Cost about $300 for the repair. Very discouraging”

“Seat belt will not recognize connectivity when using Toyota extension”

“Seat Belt broke and had to be fixed”

“When I push button to open tailgate it often only partly opens, then I have to push it shut and try again. Other possible problem:2 recalls on the cable that holds up the spare tire, Actually ours has been OK”

“tailgate will not extend up the full range in winter”

“Hatch lifters failed”

“Automatic tailgate has ceased to close. It will swing down under motor power, but refused to latch and then reopens. Must be manually closed”

“air struts holding up the hatch have reduced capacity to hold the weight, occasionally slams the hatch down”

“The latch cover on the tailgate melted and leaves black residue on you hand. It would cost hundreds to replace it”

“The tailgate does not seal properly, allowing rain to leak into the cargo area”

“Auto close stopped working, something has come loose or broken but the final draw-down still works, most of the time”

“Drivers side window track twisted. Window was binding. Eventually ceased operation”

“rear vent window motor not opening window”

“Calipers seized up and wouldn't release”

“They got stuck while we were out of town and they made an awful, awful grinding sound. We almost left the van with a repair shop and borrowed a car but since it was all highway driving we drove it 3 hours home. We ended up having to replace the rot”

“may have been shoddy work by Just Brakes, but calipers were rubbing on disk causing everything to wear out faster and terrible squeeking for months while I kept taking it back to teh shop”

“Master cylinder leaking and low peddle”

“Toyota diagnosed as Brake actuator problem which affected stability control & ABS system indicator problem lights. Self replaced brake switch under brake pedal - no more indicator lights or errors detected”

“Brake pads replaced and rotors turned”

“see previous comments”

“routine brake maintenance”

“Had to replace rear brakes. Normalwear”

“Brake pad worn almost to bare metal without warning signal”

“Replaced break pads”

“replaced front & rear pads & rotors”

“Replace brakes to often on this van”

“Normal break wear at 43000 miles replace pads and rotors. no real safety issue”

“replaced the brake disk pads”

“I can drive all over town before realizing the parking brake is still on. I had new ones installed and I still have the bad habit of not noticing when the brake is on and driving down the street so this set is losing effectiveness as well”

“Rear backing plates needed to be replaced. Also as a preventive measure due to vehicle age, had brake shoe/linings and wheel bearings replaced since parts accessible”

“Seized and had to have the complete parking brake system replaced”

“Locking up and not releasing fully causing premature failure”

“parking brake often needs adjustment”

“Inner brake pad on drivers side wore at twice the rate of the outside pad”

“This Van goes through tires and breaks incredibly quickly, Everything else has been reliable except the automatic doors were a big problem on this vehicle”

“The brakes on one side keep wearing out too quickly. They replaced the brakes a number of times and replaced the calipers with high quality ones, but the problem still persists”

“From 2 years in, premature brake wear has been a significant and costly problem. Was covered under warranty 2 years in after I complained that the wear vs. kilometers was out of line but I needed to push to get them to cover it. Since then, it's been an ongoing problem. Finally went to aftermarket solution that seems to be working better”

“Brake pad worn almost to bare metal without warning signal”

“One front and one rear rotor warped. Could be standard wear issue”

“Rotors have a tendency to warp too easily, in my opinion”

“excessive rust”

“Stops felt unsafe. Stops at high speed seem to have quickly worn down the rotors and made them wear prematurely. Stops still seem unsafe and long at high rates of speed”

“Not really a problem, just normal wear & tear”

“Regular maintenance I think. Brake pads and rotors were rusty and worn and had to be replaced”

“Brakes squeak when backing up. Dealership claims moisture collection even though it happens after being backed out of an attached garage and auto has been enclosed for over 24 hours”

“Brakes squeak loudly and noticeably when wet or when the air conditioner is on at the same time as I am going in reverse”

“We had some work done to our vehicle about 18 months ago. Almost immediately we had squeaking and noises on backing out of the garage until the brakes warmed up. After 12 months, they squeaked going forward as well. We took it to the Toyota dealer”

“Since having new front brakes there has been squeaking from my brakes. First time problem was diagnosed as a rear brake hanging up. It was fixed, but the problem still exists. Not a safety issue but is very annoying”