Toyota Sienna Change Vehicle

"The compressor has gone out twice in 5 years"

"Makes a "growling" sound when A/C is running"

"Premature failure of servo motors that drive vent doors directing air flow"

"Driver side temperature adjustment system continuously makes noise due to failing temperature adjustment valve position sensor. Driver side temperature fluctuates continuously since the valve keeps trying to find the correct position continuously"

"Replaced the HVAC control motor"

"The air distribution mode has failed miserably. It doesn't matter if you choose front, floor or a combination, the system will blow the air elsewhere, and at a different strength than what you want"

"Actuator controlling doors inside vent hoses failed so heat came out of vent instead of floor. Dealer repaired at no cost because problem was reported before warranty expired but dealer could not find problem until later"

"When temperature dropped below zero and the fan was running constantly on a 2 hour trip, the fan motor began to squeal and whine as if the fan bearing was going out. Once the weather warmed up, this noise went away"

"Condenser had a leak. Had to be replaced"

"The evaporator coil just failed. The cost to replace is $3200.00 since most of the cost will be labor to remove then reassemble the dash board. Could there be a smarter way?"

"Evaporator totally failed; needed replacement."

"The A/C didn't seem to be cooling as cold. Checkup with dealer indicated it was low on Freon and that there was a leak at the front evaporator in the dash. This vehicle has a split system with another evaporator in the rear. The repair would be approximately $2,400.00 as the replacement part comes with both evaporators in a package kit and the high labor price to remove the dash to replace the unit. I felt that was all very excessive for the age of the vehicle. Since the dealer had installed the"

"It is no longer blowing hot air when warming the car up on cold mornings. It only gets warm after driving around 5 minutes or more"

"the tube to the back seat area corroded and had to be replaced. VERY expensive to do that."

"We have had issues off and on with coolant leaks. While the car was under warranty we had several repairs made to the cooling system. Over the past 2 or 3 years we have started to experience leaks again. We have been told identifying the source of the leak will involve taking apart other parts and will be costly, so we keep re-charging the system instead."

"The rear unit was found to have a leak and would have cost about $1800.00 to replace. Shop was able to cut this out and have a/c only up front for less than 1/3rd the replacement cost"

"The van has been in for servicing about 3 times to repair air conditioning"

"Coolant lines to rear AC unit corroded and required replacement. $1200 cost"

"Dealer wanted too much to explore the lack of cooling. Wanted to inspect and test the whole system when I just wanted to check gas charge. Have had AC since 1967 on 22 different cars with NO PROBLEMS OF ANY SORT. Bad Toyota system or bad dealer?"

"The Air Conditioning was not cooling the cabin. The repair shop performed a refrigerant leak check, found no leak indications but needed to recharge the refrigerant. We have not had any problem since then"

"The air conditioner did not get cold. Had the system recharged"

"leaks in the lines that go above the left rear wheel"

"Broken pipes needed to be replaced. Not sure why they broke but they were quite expensive to replace"

"A/C doesn't cool. Needs a refrigerant refill"

"rear air not working, lines had to be replaced"

"Line leak traced to rear climate system. Difficult to locate, but repair was not a full system replacement. Phew"

"Leak at lines in rear wheel well"

"The refrigerant line to the back-seat area had a leak at the joint in back. The pipe looked like it was aluminum and had corroded at the joint in back. It was pretty expensive to fix ($600?) but the car is 10 years old and has over 190,000 miles. So I couldn't complain -- it's the most reliable car overall that I've ever had. I would buy another like it (newer or course) if I could find one equally reliable"

"I have had to recharge it for the last 7 years"

"Alternator failed and the driver side door motor is having issues. Door won't open via button - must be pulled manually. Closing the door is not an issue"

"Following distance control part of cruise needed sensor in front bumper replaced at cost of $1,400.00 and not covered by the extended warranty"

"only works for approximately one-half hour, then shuts off automatically and won't work again until car has rested for some time"

"Tail light assembly needed replacement. $250 bucks."

"The rear tail lights have burned out"

"Have replaced rear tail lights, both sides, several times. Not sure what makes them blow so often but don't want to spend money on searching possible wiring issue"

"Tail light assembly failed and needed replacement $67 cost"

"Rear running lights would not turn on. Could not trace the issue. Wired in a bypass"

"Seat heater gauge replaced"

"Headlight kept burning out; needed to replace socket"

"Low beam assembly cracked and whole headlight assembly needed to be replaced"

"Front passenger seat heater started intermittently not working when vehicle was about 5 years old (i.e. 2012). Started overheating in 6th year (2013). In 9th year stopped working completely (2016). Now it occasionaly works for a few minutes, overheating, but not sufficient to keep warm. Front driver's seat produced insufficient heat starting in 5th year. ALL front seat electrical items have INTERMITTENT problems of either working or not working or turns itself on or off. This includes the seat heaters, power windows, radio, and CD player."

"Seat warmer indicator lights have burned out"

"Fuse for the overhead interior lights blows on an intermittant basis. Because of that the "why" can't be found. The Toyota Service Advisor showed me how to change the fuse. I now carry extra fuses and change when needed. But, the problem hasn't happe"

"interior light short when using automatic sliding door"

"Slowly losing the lights one by one"

"The interior lights turn on and off, sometimes flickering, on their own"

"Does not activate when sliding doors are open"

"Starting from the 2nd row passenger area, the lights would fail. The problem seemed to move forward. Now only the front passenger door light comes on."

"The keyless entry sometimes works and sometimes does not. The automatic sliding doors often do not open, and the automatic unlocking sometimes fails. Also, we can no longer install the 8th seat"

"The gauge or the actual devise was a problem at least 4 times in the last year."

"The tpms system per the light malfunctioned 5 times in the last year, where the light would blink and blink and then stay on indicating a malfunction."

"Always need dealer reset when changing summer tires or winter tires"

"TPS lights come on even when pressure is fine"

"The nozzle on the hood clogged and had to be replaced. replaced with an after market nozzle and it did not fit like the oem and had a terrible time trying to attach it so that it would work. I should have just bought the oem on cause when you factor the time i spent verses the savings the oem was cheaper in the long run."

"squirter stopped working"

"Washer system lost pressure and I could not find the reason yet"

"very complicated. check engine light came on last Thanksgiving, it took my wonderful mechanic at David Maus Toyota 2 days working with 2 other guys to diagnose the problem. something about timing of ABS in one rear wheel was off a tiny bit. repair would cost ~$3300 BUT the upshot is it is safe to drive, just assuming the ABS is not available so must be extra careful in those conditions where ABS is usually most helpful. He said it would just be like driving the Toyota Corolla i first learned to drive, 50 years ago! so i just ignore the light and continue taking the vehicle in for regular scheduled service and routine maintenance. i was SO fortunate to have John to figure this out at the time, because he has since left that dealership. i can only hope his replacement is half as competent as John."

"Corrosion caused failure of 2 caliper pistons leading to poor performance and uneven brake pad wear"

"Maybe calipers is the wrong term. My cylinders had corroded so that they did not retract as they were supposed to when you removed your foot from the brake. It was bad enough that they would not let me drive home until it was fixed and gave me a lo"

"RR caliper intermittently seized, caused premature failure of pads"

"Both front brake calipers froze on the support bolts"

"Replaced rotor pads on front and back"

"Normal wear. First time to replace front brake pads"

"I drive a lot and it was time to replace the brakes"

"The problem was they began to jump as is normal and I had them replaced"

"Brakes were wore out. Needed to replace brake Pads"

"Had brake calipers and rotors replaced"

"Over the years the parking brake system has required repeted maintenance. The cable rigging goes out quickly and even at its best, the parking brake will not keep the van stopped when placed in drive, a state inspection requirement"

"The wear on the pads and rotor may have been due to my not being in tune with the warning sounds and sensations"

"One day after a axil, bearing & break job, I was traveling at 70 mph & the right breaks locked. At that speed, I almost lost control of the vehicle. After I stopped, the car was unmovable. I had it towed back to the Toyota Service Center that did this work."

"Rust-involved with unusual expansion requiring shaving and rotating them."

"Numerous"

"They were very POOR quality and wore down in less than one year"

"Rust in the rotors and other brake parts"

"Uneven wear caused pulsing when brakes were applied. The rotor was replaced"

"Worn, needed replacement"

"Rust dust from the rotors and wheel lugs interfered with braking silence."

"This car is parked in garage for several days at a time. Brakes calipers have frozen or rusted and caused expensive repairs"

"Rear drum brakes gets noisy"

"squeaking when braking, no real diagnosis other than drums may be warping in rear"

"Interior trim on front passenger door is coming apart"

"Many plastic trim parts not staying fastened"

"My car had body work done and it rattles when the car is going 40mph or more. Nobody can find the cause but it is very annoying"

"Interior front door panels rub against door frame and have ripped off"

"dash board replaced with recall"

"Cracks in dash"

"i have had two armrests to chairs inside the vehicle fall off. The first was on the middle passenger seat and the second was on the front passenger seat. I was able to reinstall the front seat arm, but now it goes all the way around rather than remain where a person could rest their elbow on it. The middle passenger seat arm rest was unable to be reattached. Very annoying. This actually happened several years ago when the car was newer. Should not happen then or ever!"

"Dash was subject of numerous cracks and had to be replaced by Toyota 3 years later!!!!!!!!"

"Dash was subject of numerous crack that had to be replaced by Toyota 3 years later!!!!"

"loose inderior door"

"Paint has started coming off in large pieces. Issue is similar to the issues all cars had in the early 90s"

"Some peeling on bumper"

"Repainted the car"

"Faded, rusting, not good paint overall"

"small chips various locations"

"the molding around the nav system had fading and plastic seems to be degrading. Also the plastic handle for the hatch release melted- became gummy and had to be replaced"

"Paint is peeling from driver side quarter panel and hood"

"Paint damage as a results of object hitting body of car. Rust resulted"

"The interior panel by the windshield is cracking throughout due to sun exposure"

"The paint/clearcoat is peeling on the upper part of the sliding door"

"Paint is peeling and flaking in 3 separate spots"

"just above the rear window seal the body rusted through about an inch long and it was not a result of getting damaged prior to the rust"

"body support under hood under battery rusted out, including one engine mount. Told it was due to battery acid dripping on support"

"replaced sensors"

"related to coils"

"all the oil leaked out of my engine with no warning. I had to have the oil line replaced and the car towed. I t was scary"

"The spark plug tube seals failed on several cylinders causing oil to build up in the spark plug hole which caused the engine to misfire. Replacing these parts on this engine is difficult and expensive"

"Oil leak can only be corrected by removing the engine."

"Several gaskets failing. About $900 to replace."

"Oil cooler line failed while being driven (total loss of oil), the day after I received a recall notice for it and had just made an appointment at the Toyota dealer. Was towed in, repaired, and has run fine since. All covered by Toyota."

"The Check Engine light and the Oil pressure warning light both came on when my son was driving the car. He had it checked out and it turned out the Engine Oil Cooler Line had failed and was leaking oil. Replacement cost was quite high. On doing some research I learned that this had at one time been a service campaign item or recall, I don't remember which, but either way, our car was way past the maximum mileage to qualify for that. I was, however, able to purchase the part on Amazon, for less money and faster delivery than my mechanic could! Apparently it's a hot item. Labor was still the kicker. It took 4-5 days, total, for the car to be repaired. My son is an active musician and student, spends a lot of time driving around the area with drums loaded in the back of the Sienna, so it was a challenge being without it."

"Oil leak in hose connected to oil cooler. Sprayed oil onto radiator fan which spread it all over the engine compartment."

"Dealer could not tell where a small oil leak is coming from"

"Oil return hose burst, spewing oil all over the road"

"Head gasket replaced under warranty"

"Began suddenly in last 2000 miles"

"There was some leaks which was corrected by the mechanic. It was from drive train"

"An oil cooling line ruptured"

"The oil leak will require the engine to be removed. Poor design/engineering"

"Oil cooler pipe failure. Pumped almost all oil out of the engine in about 5 miles"

"we have a towing pkg. - associated with that, there is an engine oil cooler. The oil cooler is connected to the engine via rubber hoses. one of the hoses ruptured and all of the oil got pumped out. CS rates good on the 2007 Sienna but this is the biggest piece of junk we ever owned"

"Had a ruptured external oil line. The only indication was oil spots on the ground under the car. The leak was serious and had I not noticed the oil on the driveway I probably would have run the engine with little or no oil,"

"Oil line ruptured or rusted through. Quickly lost large amount of oil"

"Plastic part broke that discharged all the oil in the engine. Its good I saw this so I filled up the engine with 4 quarts of oil. If I did not do this, the engine would have been damaged"

"The crankcase uses a heat exchanger to maintain the oil temperature. The original lines were rubber and they have now been replaced with metal lines. One of these lines leaked very seriously. They were both replaced. The cost was Just over $325.00."

"Required Replacement"

"Failed suddenly and engine stopped while driving"

"The van would not start when it had been driven previously that day. It cost about $700 to have fuel pump replaced"

"it went bad and it was the hard one to get to."

"It was replaced"

"one of emission sensors failed causing the check engine light to come on"

"sensor temporarily failed - toyota certifed mechanic said it was dead dead and was not covered under warranty; another mechanic said it should be, but we should wait to see if it cleared; it has. but wihile it was showing as defective the electroni"

"Air to fuel ratio sensor failure. Sensor also was seized in the catalytic converter, so they had to replace the converter.as well. I only had to pay for the sensor; they claimed the converter under warranty at no charge to me"

"Code showed up"

"Tire pressure light on and cannot be reset although the tire pressure is okay. New sensor does not correct the problem"

"Check engine light. Bad O2 sensor had to be replace costing close to $500"

"There are apparently multiple oxygen sensors on this vehicle, sensor B2S2 failed, because of "age" (service dept explanation)"

"Check engine light was on, one sensor had to be replaced"

"Routine check engine light came on. Diagnose as trailing 02 sensor, replaced and cleared codes"

"check engine light. changed the fuel cap and the light came on again in a week"

"Replaced sensor completely"

"Changed the dame sensor twice in about 18 months, unusual and unacceptable. The second time I changed it myself to save money"

"Engine code states to replace one of the two upflow O2 sensors"

"Had a recall to replace sensor. Covered by warranty"

"02 sensor in the exhaust failed"

"Check engine light, ESC and other warning lights all came on suddenly. Cost almost $1000 to replace faulty sensors"

"leaky water pump"

"Leak on the front passenger side was the water pump but van has over 125000 miles on it but cost seven hundred dollars to fix"

"Water pump is leaking but I assume that it's time: haven't replaced it before"

"Water pump leak.Transmission pan seal leak"

"Loose heat shield on exhaust. Repaired at dealer."

"Front right end noise when turning to the right, or going over bumps. Three mechanic shops have not figured it out. Replaced struts, stabilizer bar, brakes, tires"

"rear brakes squeak even though I keep have the surface cleaned"

"Passenger side rear door rattles no matte what I do to fix it"

"Had to replace the fan belt"

"Passenger door is making a noice. The passenger side auto sliding door motor failed"

"rattles in middle of dash which is intermittant"

"Squeaks while driving it, but can't find the source"

"Bad rattles a ram rear of car have taken it twice to tighten a say is the way the spare tire is underneath car keeps coming on the loose I hope that it doesn't come on down while I'm traveling"

"Rattle in passenger side sliding door since vehicle new. Toyota has never properly repaired"

"Vibration when downshifting to lowest gear. Transmission replaced via dealer warranty"

"transmission completely failed rear door latch failed"

"Tranny went at 127K miles. I already had a new tranny replaced under warranty, fortunately, at about 52K miles"

"Clogged coolant line caused transmission to fail"

"this is a flooded salvaged car so i dont know if it was not flooded it would have a transmission problem also ..but yes my tranny went out and paid 5000$ to fix it was a pain"

"Son coming home from college broke down in a remote area. Towed vehicle 60+ miles. Was told the entire transmission needed to be replaced, which took about a week. Toyota paid something toward the repair despite this not being covered by warranty"

"The transmission casing cracked and pieces of the casing broke off"

"Transmission was working but obviously not well. Toyota replaced under warranty with no questions"

"Transmission oil line to cooling system broke, draining all transmission oil and destroying transmission"

"Transmission was gone at only 66000 miles. Mechanic didn't feel it should happen as we had not "hauled" a boat or other pulled object. Company gave us a new transmission and we paid for installation"

"Corroded to the point of a new one was necessary"

"radiator cracked"

"Radiator cracked and had to be replaced"

"The radiator rusted through to a hole in the bottom which caused us to have to replace it but the van drove 190K + so maybe that's the expected life of a radiator?"

"Radiator failed at the connector for the transmission fluid. The part was expensive and the effort to replace was worse. The fasteners busted and had to be drilled out and replaced"

"When replacing the starter, a small piece connecting hoses to radiator failed, requiring a complete replacement of a radiator that was still functional. The overall design of the radiator to include a small part that fails easily is a flaw."

"water pump leaked had to be replaced"

"Price of replacement pump $300. plus labor. No prior indications of problem such as noise, leakage or overheating. Found at a routine service inspection"

"Water pump broke while driving. Caused the engine to overheat and nearly destroyed it"

"It has trouble shifting from 2nd to 3rd. Sloppy"

"Transmission was slipping, I took it to a transmission company, they said they rebuilt it. I got it back and there was an oil leak, I took it back, they said there was an oil leak on the coolant lines to radiator, and all they could do is install an exterior cooler, since then I have not had a problem"

"RAdiator failed and caused the transmission to overheat, then stop working. Car had to be towed. Luckily, once the radiator system was replaced and the system flushed, the transmission resumed normal function and did not have to be rebuilt."

"Transmission oil coolant line broke at radiator. Compensated for cost of repair by Toyota"

"Transmission was leaking at the radiator. Radiator and to be replaced to resolve issue"

"Gears could be changed without stepp[ng on the brake pedal first"

"This is the second time one of the ignition valve sensors has gone. Both Valve 2 and Valve 5 so far, I believe there are 6 or 8 of these. A couple of hundred dollars for each sensor replacement. Given the age of the car, I don't think it's too bad"

"Valve body in transmission was replaced at AAMCO, it fixed the gear slipping problem"

"Ignition coil was failing, didn't immediately replace, but soon realized my car was burning a lot more fuel. Perhaps 20% less efficient. Cost about $240 to replace coil, but repair was quick and now seems to be working perfectly"

"Got engine warning light and then rough running on highway. Got it towed to nearest Toyota and codes indicated multiple coil misfires. Replaced them all at about $1200"

"Had to have 3 of the6 coils replaced and now engine knocking again and sensor reads that the one causing the problems is one of the new ones"

"The car wouldn't start reliably in cold weather at the end of the winter. At the second visit to the car dealer, they found it was the coil and replaced it. It is working fine since then."

"At 94000 I had to replace an oxygen sensor, then I had a consistently repeating check engine light caused by a deteriorated segment of the engine harness. Toyota also replaced the engine computer on warranty, but that turned out not to be the cause"

"We replaced every ignition coil"

"Starter failed intermittently until it failed completely; then had to replace."

"Same problem as CV joint"

"Needed driveshaft replaced"

"warning light on dash - took repair shop two trips to diagnose"

"When cornering, at speeds above 20 MPH, the VSC and Stability Control indicators flash. Cannot accelerate, even to enter the interstate hyway. Local Toyota dealer has been unable to correct the problem after 2 attempts. Dangerous situation"

"Dealer has no idea what the problem is, and says they are unable to duplicate this problem. Yesterday, I rounded a curve in the street at about 40 MPH and the left front brake locked up for an instant and the speed dropped dramatically"

"Engine "BLEW" (I believe piston rod through block) - had to replace with another used engine"

"engine had a catastrophic breakdown"

"Slight leak they fixed while doing my transmission. Still costly"

"External antifreeze leak from head gasket"

"Engine gaskets replaced due to seepage"

"This was the muffler that came with the vehicle when new. After 11+ years and more than 200,000 miles, I feel I got more than my money's worth. I have never had an exhaust that lasted as long as the on on the 2007 Sienna"

"Passenger seat had a recall for a wiring issue, later the seat airbag came up with an internal fault which required replacement of the airbag (or actuator)."

"I looked up the SRS code, and there is a specified fix of several thousand dollars; so I have not fixed it."

"Air bag warning light coming on and Toyota wanted about $2,000 to fix. Pursued it and they fixed by replacing the wiring harness under the passenger seat."

"The front driver's side sensor in the bumper that warns of getting close to things produces false warnings."