Toyota Sienna Change Vehicle

“When the pads were worn and needed replacement, the front calipers were stuck and had to be replaced”

“Rear brake caliber became frozen and lost rear braking”

“Replaced entire system due to corrosion”

“inside pad and rotor wear -suspect faulty design of splash shields”

“didn't think the brakes lasted as long as they should”

“Brake pads wear very quickly. I feel - Rotors are too small for this minivan. Braking feels inadequate. Brakes get squeaky very soon after new pads/rotors. Parking brakes & cable had to be replaced - they also feel very soft”

“The front driver side brake pad was worn out completely, with the rest of the brake pads getting regular wear”

“Back brakes wore completely down. One side cut into the rotor requiring rotor replacement”

“The brake pads & rotors had to be replaced. First the front then the back”

“Replaced brakes five times. Replaced tires more often than should/”

“Rotors warped”

“front rotors warp after hard breaking and give a pulsing sensation”

“The rotors needed to be replaced because of the premature break pad wear on the driver side”

“Need resurfacing almost every 30k miles and start throbbing on brake application”

“Loud noise”

“We've replaced the rotors on this Sienna more than we have for any other car we've owned. It only has 91k miles and are on the third set of front rotors and second set of back rotors/drum combination”

“Lots of shaking when applying breaks at moderate to high speeds. Replaced the rotors a few times with increasingly more expensive versions. Still have the same problem with the rotors wearing out quickly”

“Warping”

“now warning before right rotor became scored and had to be replaced. Replacement was easy enough to permit DIY with on-line instructions and non-special tools”

“Had squeaking in the brakes, got new pads”

“brake pads need to be replaced every 20K seems to often”

“Front brakes squeal, mainly in the morning”

“Front pads were replaced and almost immediately squealed when brakes were applied. Dealer staff said "wait until the pads get broken in, rotors may be glazed," etc. Problem was solved by replacing pads with "best " quality pads after "persuasion"”

“Brakes have always squeaked when backing up only”

“Loud noise”

“Every time I pressed the brakes the van made a grinding squeaking noise”

“Entire breaking system had to be replaced 5k”

“Dealer keeps saying brake fluid is leaking but no leak found”

“Brakes do not last as long as I thought they should”

“We've replaced the front brake pads about every 18 months to 2 years with this Toyota Sienna. This is considerably more often than we have had to do than with any other vehicle we have owned”

“Old pads were of unknown age but lacked tab that causes warning signal (squeal) when sufficiently worn. Replacement was DIY with the usual home tools”

“The break pads needed replacing”

“Not a problem, it was expected”

“We drive a lot so the brakes wore due to the constant driving”

“brakes worn out, 2nd replacement in 3 years”

“This is the second Toyota I've had where the AC system developed coolant leaks. Replacing these systems is very expensive and repairing the leaks is nearly impossible. Recharging is a bad environmental alternative”

“The zoned temperature control feature is failing. The passenger seat temperature control does not work properly. Can't regulate the temperature in that zone”

“Independent temperature control between driver and passenger was lost. Door that splits the venting continually clicks, trying to position itself. Passenger had no ability to control temperature. Repair was only partially successful. Door in system still clicks”

“The automatic climate control in the dash is making a loud clicking noise regularly when in use”

“Replaced motors on the air box for $3000+. They were sticking in an open position? Had to remove the dash to get to them”

“The driver side AC stayed on the coldest temperature. It couldn't regulate itself. After the third time complaining, Toyota finally found the problem and fixed it”

“Heater broke, and our mechanic tried to fix with a small replacement part, but the way the van is built the ENTIRE heater panel had to be replaced which is very expensive. We went to a junk yard and bought the replacement. It took 6 different panels to find one that wasn't also broken”

“Unable to control heat and air, does not heat or cool properly”

“Takes lengthy time for heater to blow hot air and the rear system barely heats at all”

“Driver side servo actuator stuck”

“Insufficient heating - problem diagnosed as leaking pump causing loss of fluid. Pump replaced”

“No heat on right side vents poor heat on left side almost no heat in rear”

“The radiator developed a hole in it and the radiator had to be replaced”

“Heater was blowing cold air, went to shop multiple times to diagnose and fix; bad relays were eventually replaced”

“The rear unit failed/leaked. Extremely expensive to get fixed”

“It has rear a/c, and that is where we were told the tester beeps, so that is where they think the leak is. Over $1k to fix, so we haven't fixed it yet, just limping along putting in refrigerant every spring”

“System developed a pinhole leak which local garage found and corrected for a reasonable price”

“in 2015 the air conditioning failed; it was 'fixed' at the dealer using a special coolant that was supposed to plug the leak, but that failed less than a year later. They did the same thing again. Again it failed after a couple of months. Today they replaced the AC compressor, as they were guessing it was the source of the leak, but that was only a guess. The leak is slow enough that they cannot find it, so are guessing and replacing parts one at a time. Very expensive”

“Line to rear air unit leaking and had to be replaced”

“The seals went bad in the lines going to the back evaporator in the wheel well of the back right wheel”

“Connection leak to rear air condenser. Cost $125 to fix”

“Just this month the air conditioner simply failed to cool. The dealer indicated that they'd injected dye and discovered a minor leak to keep an eye on. They recharged the system”

“Needed lines replaced”

“leak at rear of car - bad gasket”

“Noticeable loss of air conditioning cooling (off and on), had to test first for leaks and then replace coolant”

“Poorly routed regrigerant lines under the car led to multiple punctures”

“At 40,256 miles the rear air conditioning lines developed a leak that cost $1,307.81 to replace. As an engineer this looks like a bad design since the service writer told me this is normal and searching the internet this is a common problem”

“start having strange noise”

“Making noise”

“the air conditioning condenser for rear of mini-van is now leaking and had to be repaired. expensive”

“Lower back panels, behind the rear wheels. The fit is the issue. The horizontal gap is getting larger”

“Pieces fell off and rubber gaskets stick”

“Body panels keep coming unfastened and drag or flap around”

“Trim around sliding doors and rear windows has come loose. Not a major deals”

“trim on rear door is loose, locating pin broke”

“Plastic covers trim covers on seats easily fall out”

“The dashboard has multiple cracks”

“The interior driver door panel has separated from the door. The weatherstripping around the driver sliding door has fallen off”

“front bumper cover does not resist pitting thrown up from the road”

“Live on ocean. PAint fades and rusts”

“Paint coming off of back door in sheets. One foot square area, dealer where I bought the car won't help me”

“paint chips easily, bought extra protection plan but never repaired and now rusts”

“Clear coat peeling off also on head cap, Car kept in garage all the time”

“Paint is peeling on hood, top and rear two doors”

“bumper has peeling paint”

“Clear coat coming off in multiple areas of the exterior. Started coming off after I went through a few car touchless car washes. The water spray stripped off the clear coat”

“Rear bumper paint peeling”

“paint is sub standard especially around door handles,finger nails easily scratch the paint”

“Roof rack black coating was flaking off in less than one year”

“Spare tire support rusted. Now I have the tire inside the car and cannot fold back the back seats. No way to get floor flat in the back”

“Part of the heat shield fallen off due to attachment rusting through. Remaining part was rating and was reattached by wire. Should have been attached using stainless steel or aluminium attachment, it would have cost Toyota less than $5”

“I have a tow package that has an engine oil cooler system. The engine oil cooler line completely failed. Needed a tow for repairs. There is an advisory published by Toyota that these rubber lines are prone to failure and need to be replaced by metal. All Toyota 6 cylinder that can tow up to 3,500 lbs. needs to have this fix completed or they will ruin their motor”

“WHILE PARKED, MASSIVE OIL LEAK OUT OF RIGHT SIDE OF ENGINE, COVERED UNDER WARRANTY”

“oil line broke”

“Dealer repair under warranty failed twice”

“High pressure oil line in the upper part of the engine ruptured. The vehicle had a recall for the problem just a few months after I had it repaired”

“Oil Cooler supply line burst and needed replacement. Was under special warranty by Toyota”

“We've been stranded with oil issues twice - both very significant”

“Engine belt ends up covered but not a recall total oil blow out had to be towed few more miles engine would have burnt out”

“Major leak in the oil crankcase”

“oil pipe burst, resulting in other problems / leaks and over $1500 of repairs”

“Entire oil reservoir emptied spontaneously. Warning lights did not go on. Dealer did not want to cover the costs past warranty, but eventually did when we learned it was a design flaw happening to many other Sienna's”

“A hose burst and spilled oil out. It was a major repair”

“The oil cooling hose burst while on a family vacation. By the time we pulled over (no lights on the dashboard indicated there was a problem) due to smoke coming from the back of the car we had no oil left in the reservoir (according to the dipstick)”

“oxygen sensor went bad”

“The interior lights wont go off automatically. We have to live with setting the whole interior to the off position”

“A wrapped wiring bundle rubbed and shorted to a frame piece behind the dash. It kept blowing the fuse and rendering the clock, center dash LCD panel, and power mirrors inoperative. It was finally found and repaired under the extended warranty”

“Lights in upper console (on ceiling) burned out”

“Interior lights will flash on and off sometimes or not turn on at all when opening doors”

“Tire pressure light comes on in cold weather even if the tires are properly inflated”

“Tire pressure warning light came on, checked tires, all ok.. Dealer tried to replace sensors, none would communicate with computer so only option was to replace computer.. $1500 cost, so not done. Car only had 55K miles on it when computer failed”

“Overly frequent warnings as tires warm/cool leading to ignoring of warning. Sensors easily broken during tire change, leading to high replacement and calibration expenses”

“There is a warning light for airbags that is under the drawer under the passenger seat. Frequented a passenger will bump the drawer, the light will come on, and the next time we stop we fiddle with the connection to make the warning light turn offf”

“Check engine light comes on as a result of computer problem and not engine problem”

“automatic sliding door stopped functioning with button push-only manual open now”

“It was part of the previous discription”

“Cruise control on/off button popped off; cruise control wand was replaced under extended warranty”

“One of the headlights had a problem with the light bulb staying screwed in tightly. It would wiggle loose and the headlight would not work. We had to have it fixed”

“Heated seat was disconnected on Driver side”

“Driver door lock became unresponsive to electronic switch, both key fab and door button. Worked ok manually. Dealer suggested a fix that cost approximate $300, but after 3 months the problem "fixed" itself. Currently works”

“Air/fuel sensor went out. It was an easy to diagnose problem and easy to fix with the right part”

“The engine light went on intermittently along with a couple of other lights such as TRK OFF. An internet search told us it was probably a fuel sensor since these are known to fail on this model. Indeed when we took it in that is what they had to replace. I wish automakers wouldn't turn off traction control routinely, when there is an issue like this”

“sensor failed and was not covered under emission control warranty”

“Lights went on. Needed to replace O2 sensor. Took two visits to get fixed”

“Sensors get replaced and the problem is fixed for a little while, then the sensors are bad again and the warning lights go on again and the sensors need to be replaced again, which are expensive”

“02 sensors required replacement as well as EVAP canister”

“sensor failed”

“One of the 3(?) O2 sensors failed 4 months ago. Van was still OK to drive. Toyota replacement was very expensive conpared to aftermarket sensors”

“rodents nibbling on the vapor hose from the fuel tank”

“Check engine remained on at all times. Was also informed fuel intake pipe needed replacement. Cap was replaced, check engine light remains off. No further problem at this point”

“Replaced fuel cap but found out it was a carbon filter part that cost 1500 to replace”

“Stalled at low speed idle situations. Without any engine codes stored, my mechanic couldn't troubleshoot. Went to stealership because safety of my wife & kids was at stake . After replacing a coil, they found the real culprit was low fuel pressure”

“Some of the weatherstripping has begun to come loose. Since it is permanently attached to some trim pieces, the replacement would require also replacing the trim - this adds a lot of expense”

“the weather stripping around the sliding door came undone after the adhesive appeared to melt in the intense GA heat, rain water subsequently leaked into the car. Two dealer replacement strips failed to adhere”

“had a major oil gasket leak that almost ruined the engine. Had several rattles and loose plastic parts. Also have a problem with cruise control shutting off while driving”

“Rattles coming from behind glove compartment”

“Previously stated. The front breaks squeal mainly ine the morning. [IE] ] starting up !!”

“We have had a rattle under the hood when traveling at fast speeds >50 mph since the vehicle was new. We have had the dealer try to adress it, but nothing has remedied it. At this point, we've just learned to live with it”

“There are a lot of squeaks and rattles from many different sources that make it sound like the car will fall apart any second”

“Driving at highway speeds creates a constant wind noise on the drivers side. Not certain if it is the windshield installation or the driver door outside air flow, but the noise is there in both areas”

“left sliding door does not fit flush causing noise”

“Wind noise has always been a problem since purchase. The vehicle does not have a tight seal. Sometimes difficult speaking with back seat passengers”

“There is way too much wind noise through the windshield”

“the right front wheel bearing went out requiring new bearing and front end alignment”

“The Sienna has been in the shop 4 times for the problems we have mentioned. Also in the 8 and a half years we've owned this vehicle it has had the brakes replaced 6 or 7 times”

“there isn't any”

“Drive axel speed sensor”

“Not sure if correct category- problem with ignition coils. All replaced. Cost over $1,000”

“VSC sensor failed”

“does not brake slipping wheel”

“Hydroplaning on a dry surface, no rain or puddles. Car often seems to stall or lose power when road curves to right”

“leaking rubber gasket”

“seals were leaking”

“Radiator system leaked and had to replace radiator”

“Radiator hose connections had become brittle. Radiator broke during radiator hose replacement”

“Water pump failed and had to be replaced”

“Water pump gave up at around 70K miles”

“Failed at about 50,000 miles, which is far too early”

“Catostrophic failure of water pump, had to replace immediately”

“water pump started to leak and required replacing”

“Seal in the transmission failed entirely and abandoned my family on the highway requiring a long distance tow”

“3000$ was parts and 1000$ labor, but was under warranty. Was after 2 years. Started out as fluid leaks and they said some part had to be shipped and replaced. DOnt remember details right now”

“After a transmission oil change, the drain plug continues to leak (weep) despite using a new crush-washer per factory specs”

“Discovered transmission fluid leak and since it's a closed system, it required professional service. Dealer quoted a very high price for procedure so we used a highly recommended/reputable local repair service - on time, below quoted estimate and fr”

“Cable was split causing the transmission not to go into park. Cable had to be replaced”

“Transmission performance made the car unsafe to drive until sensor was replaced”

“Had to have 2 coils replaced, one twice. Replacing the back coils is absurd and requires the engine to be removed from the car. Starts at $400 just for the labor. Same estimate, three different shops”

“Experience extreme rough running, engine & vehicle vibration on highway on 2000 mi. trip. Multiple ignition coilpaks "misfiring" - R&R "Worst" 1 cost $258.84! Had just had spark plugs replaced <120 days ago for $447.09. must pay same $332.50 labor”

“Van would just stop running with no warning, but never at the shop. Updated fuel pump resistor and heat sink were installed and the problem is gone. Dealer could not solve this, but a local Toy/Lexus specialty shop dug in and did. Whew!!”

“OBD Code P0352 #2 spark plug coil failed”

“We have had problems a number of times with spark plugs misfiring, which leads to loss of power, unfortunately usually when we are on a long trip. Despite taking it in a number of times (3 or 4) the problem recurs and nobody seems to know how to fix it”

“I was told by the service department at the toyota dealership that it appeared that the head gaskets might be leaking. Since I had an extended warranty that covered this problem I had them replace the head gasket even though I was having no problems”

“The dealer wanted $3000 for a used transmission with 80,000 miles or $5000 for a new transmission”