In our lab, we tested the multi-cookers in as many modes as possible. For models with pressure cookers, we set the pressure to high and cooked pork ribs and beef chili (using dried beans). We also used the pressure function to cook white rice and steam broccoli mixed with carrots. 

For models without a pressure mode, we tested the steam and rice functions using the same foods and amounts as before.

All cookers have a slow-cook function, so we set each on high and cooked more chili, using dry beans, for 7 hours. Then we tested the multi-cookers by cooking beef stew for 5 hours. The best delivered delicious, tender results in that time.

Testers sautéed sliced onions to evaluate how evenly the models brown them. Then the testers kept on going, baking in some models and experimenting with functions that aren't on all models: air-frying, crisping, dehydrating, and sous vide. Staffers sampled each dish, and noted their opinions of the food’s taste and tenderness.

We also evaluated convenience factors, such as the clarity of the touch controls and how easy it is to program each multi-cooker, and evaluated the durability of the cooking surface.

Multi-cookers vary widely in price, so think about what you need this cooker to do, and pay attention to these details.

The Pot
Most multi-cookers we tested have a removable pot with a nonstick coating—ceramic or Teflon-like—for easy cleaning. Instant Pot, however, uses uncoated stainless steel for its multi-cookers with pressure mode. Usually the pots are round, which means that bigger cuts of meats do not fit quite as easily they do in an oblong-shaped pot. So check the manual’s advice, or recipes online, for tips on how best to cook large cuts. Two of the models CR tested have oblong pots. However, these models do not have a pressure-cooker mode.

The Lid
On the multi-cookers with pressure-cook mode, the lid (which is not transparent) is locked during pressure cooking, so you can’t check on food without stopping the cooker, allowing the pressure to release, then removing the lid. Multi-cookers without pressure mode usually have a tempered glass lid.

Capacity
It typically ranges from 4 to 8 quarts, and most multi-cookers that CR tested are 6-quart models, a widely sold choice. Keep in mind that you can’t fill the pot to the top (the manual will guide you). Instant Pot, for example, says not to fill the pot higher than two-thirds, and only half-way when when cooking foods that expand, such as beans and rice. The same rule applies for foods that may foam or froth, such as oatmeal and split peas.

Add-Ons
Manufacturers are continually adding other features, expanding the idea of what a multi-cooker can do. You’ll see these newer features on the pricier models that sell for around $200 to $250. Here’s what we’ve seen in our test labs:

• Air frying/crisping: Sales of air fryers have increased significantly in the past several years. Ninja took notice and added an air fryer/crisper feature to its Ninja Foodi OP302 multi-cooker. It has a pressure lid and a crisping lid that’s hinged to the pot. This lid houses a fan that circulates warm air inside the pot for air-frying foods such as french fries, or for browning when baking. If you quickly cook a whole chicken using the pressure-cook mode, for example, you can finish it by using the crisping lid to nicely brown and crisp the skin. Our tests found that this feature works as promised.

• Canning: The Instant Pot Max boasts a canning feature, but CR has not tested the feature. Instant Pot says that recipes used must be tested by the USDA for food safety, but their recommendations have not been tested in electric pressure cookers, according to the project director. It’s crucial to do canning right. Done improperly, canning carries the risk of botulism, a rare but potentially deadly form of food poisoning.

• Dehydrating: Removing the moisture from fruits, vegetables, and meats can make for delicious snacks. The Ninja Foodi OP302 is the only multi-cooker we tested with this feature. The process is long—6 to 8 hours for most fruits and veggies, and 5 to 7 hours for meats. CR testers tried out this feature by dehydrating two apples cut into slices, and the dried apples were tasty. But given the size of this 6.5-quart pot, you can’t dehydrate a lot of food at once, even using the multilayer rack we bought for $30.

• Sous vide: You'll find this feature on the Instant Pot Max. Our testers used the sous vide setting to cook three boneless chicken breasts, each sealed in a plastic bag, in a bath of heated water. Three hours later the chicken was juicy and tender, and evenly cooked throughout. To learn more about sous vide cooking, see "Sous Vide Tools That Up Your Game in the Kitchen."