Sorry, but Your Jojoba Oil Is Not Really Hydrating Your Skin
Dermatologists clarify this common misconception and share what oils really do in your skin care routine
I’ve always been a girl’s girl, so of course I found myself at a sleepaway camp for moms—even though I’m strictly in my auntie era.
The event promised a break from day-to-day responsibilities and a chance to unwind with like-minded Black women, plus workshops on everything from wine pairings to line dancing to skin care. But the skin care session left me more unsettled than relaxed.
Clarifying a Core Misconception
According to dermatologists, oils are often mistaken for hydration. ”Their role is to support the skin’s barrier function and reduce water loss, not to hydrate,” says dermatologist Tiffany Libby, MD, director of Mohs micrographic and dermatologic surgery at Brown Dermatology in Rhode Island. “The confusion often comes from the instant softness oils provide, which is due to their emollient effect because they smooth and lubricate the outermost skin layers, improving texture and flexibility.”
That’s not to say that oils don’t have an effect on hydration. “Oils smooth the surface quickly, giving a temporary feeling of suppleness. What they actually do is slow down evaporation of existing moisture,” says dermatologist Julie Russak, MD, founder of Russak Dermatology Clinic in New York City. “They work best when applied after a hydrating product, not instead of it.”
Many people assume oil equals hydration. I wanted to tell both women at the event that using oils on dry skin can be counterproductive.
Dermatologists agree that certain oils can be comedogenic (pore-clogging) and disrupt the skin barrier (skin’s outermost layer) when used on dehydrated skin without prior hydration. “A healthy skin barrier relies on the right balance of water, lipids [fats], and ceramides [important lipids that make up about half of the outer layer of skin],” Russak says. “When that balance is disrupted, either by overcleansing, harsh weather, or inflammation, the barrier becomes leaky, irritated, and less able to hold moisture,” thus exacerbating dryness—especially for those prone to dry skin.
“Oils alone don’t repair this system,” Russak says. “Barrier-restoring moisturizers with ceramides, cholesterol, and humectants can replenish what the skin is missing. Once the barrier is rebuilt and the microbiome is stable, oils can support the final layer of protection.”
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How Oils Actually Work on Skin
Oils can be beneficial as a protective layer after moisturizing. Russak says they seal in moisture, soften dry patches, and add suppleness. She also says certain oils with a balanced fatty-acid profile can complement barrier repair, especially on sensitive or inflamed skin.
“Oils like jojoba or squalane are chemically similar to natural sebum and can help balance the skin’s own lipid production,” Libby adds. “Others rich in linoleic acid can actually strengthen barrier lipids and improve moisture retention over time.”
So, for the record, oils can seal in hydration but cannot replenish water lost from dry skin. “They can make the skin feel softer, but they don’t replace true hydration or repair the barrier on their own,” Russak says.
