Why does standard-definition programming look poor on my big screen HDTV?

A clean, strong standard-definition signal should look OK on an HDTV. If it doesn't, these factors be partly or entirely responsible:

First, signal problems you never noticed on a small screen are magnified on a large one. And your high-definition TV will not increase the resolution of a standard-definition signal.

Second, big-screen TVs generally have larger pixels, and are meant to be seen from farther away than small screen TVs. A weak “snowy” picture will be more noticeable.

Third, if the standard-definition program you’re talking about is conventional analog, your HDTV must convert it to a digital signal and scale the image information to suit the digital display’s native resolution. With this conversion, the noisy signal of a weak channel leads to visible, unwanted artifacts, such as a fuzzy picture. Try enabling the “digital (video) noise filter” on the TV, if it has it – though it may cause fast motion be blurred.

Fourth, there are some general limitations to some of the newer display technologies. LCDs and RPTVs can have limited viewing angles – the picture fades as you view off of center. Plasmas and RPTVs in brightly lit rooms can lose contrast and look washed out.

Fifth, picture quality on the best picture-tube (CRT) TVs in our tests have tended to be little better than LCD and plasma sets, though the differences are shrinking. And HD sets have generally been better than non-HD. Furthermore, the picture quality between HD models can also be very significant.

Sixth, setting up an HDTV can be complicated. Your TV may not be connected up for the best picture – see FAQ J-6 – or it may not be adjusted properly – see FAQ K-2.

Finally, it may not be the TV. The quality of standard off-air and cable analog TV signals can vary from channel to channel. A lot also depends on your antenna’s location and/or your service provider. See FAQs A-6 and I-1.

Is there a difference between satellite and cable reception?

In our recent national survey of more than 1,750 cable and satellite television subscribers, satellite continued to lead the pack in overall satisfaction, followed by digital cable and then analog. Satellite scored better than cable in most every category we reported on -- value, picture quality, sound quality, interesting programming, and overall satisfaction.

But variations among specific providers may produce differing results. Both satellite and cable companies use digital transmission to retransmit the original analog or digital signal. So in theory, if they simply pass along the signal unhindered, there should be no picture-quality difference between the two. That said, either provider may highly compress the signal in order to squeeze in more digital channels. Or they may set the compression to some “default setting” with limited forethought. Too much compression can rob the TV image of detail (look soft), and make it look coarse or “streaky”.

Are Digital-Cable-Ready TVs and CableCards making cable boxes obsolete?

With a current “first generation” Digital-Cable-Ready TV and a CableCard, you can receive all cable channels, analog and digital (and HD).

But, to get interactive features such as an interactive program guide and video-on-demand, you will need a digital cable box. See FAQ B-2 for more on CableCards.

Is there any real difference to the viewer between 720p and 1080i?

There are two primary HD signal types in use by broadcasters:

• 1080i (approximately 2 megapixels)
  
• 720p (approximately 1 megapixel).
  
  Both have more detail than regular analog TV. Of the two, 1080i has more detail, but 720p is theoretically better for displaying motion. The ABC, FOX, and ESPN networks chose 720p for their digital channels, perhaps because of their emphasis on sports programming.
  
  These signal formats refer to the quality of the signal itself, not to the native resolution of the TV. The set you plug these signals into must have a native resolution high enough to display the 1080i signal. Otherwise, the two signals will look almost identical. See FAQ B-1 for more on native resolution.
  
  
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"Native resolution" refers to how many pixels there are in the screen itself.

Resolution is expressed as two numbers - the horizontal pixel count and the vertical pixel count, 640x480, for example. The horizontal number is usually larger than the vertical. Total pixel count is the product of the two numbers -- 640x480 = 307,200 pixels, for example.

A pixel is a picture element - one of many tiny dots which make up the picture. It strictly is used only for fixed-pixel cameras (CCD, CMOS) and displays (LCD, plasma, DLP, LCOS).

The expression "native resolution" is technically incorrect for describing picture-tubes (CRTs). Picture-tubes are analog displays. They use a different figure called "dot pitch" to describe the physical design, which cannot be directly compared to pixel count. Also see FAQ B-2.

The native resolution of current TVs is generally classified as SD, ED and HD.

• HD (high-definition, digital) TVs have higher native resolutions - 1280x720 and up.
  
• ED (enhanced-definition, digital) TVs have lower native resolution - 852x480 or less.
  
• SD (standard-definition, digital or analog) TVs have the lowest native resolution - 720x480 or less.

See FAQ G-6 for more on the TV types.

A higher resolution produces a sharper, more detailed image (though differences of less than 10% will probably not matter as many other factors can affect sharpness). A large part of TV research is focused on designing higher-resolution TVs.

Naturally, you'll pay more for an HDTV.

Another issue is that there is processing done internally in the TV itself which affects picture quality. A higher-resolution TV that treats the signal poorly may produce a worse image than a lower-resolution TV that handles the signal well.

The expression "line" is used to convey the apparent resolution of a display.

A "line" refers to the ability to visually pick out either one thin black line or one white line, with lines of opposite color to each side, stretching across the screen. In practice, a test pattern containing arrays of lines and wedge patterns is used to visually determine resolution. A display is said to have so many lines of resolution when that is the most it can clearly reproduce the black-to-white difference. This test is usually done in both vertical and horizontal directions to fully describe the performance.

Conventional analog TVs tuned to a broadcast channel can typically resolve 480 horizontal lines by 330 vertical lines. Some of the newest "1080p" displays can resolve up to 1920 by 1080 lines if driven by an HD signal via digital video connection.

A CableCard is used with a Digital-Cable-Ready TV, and takes the place of a cable box and its remote. It's an electronic memory card that stores information about your TV and your cable service account. It must be programmed by the field service technician.

By inserting the cable-company-provided card into a slot on the TV, you can watch every analog, digital, and high-definition channel that you would get through a cable box, including premium channels. There's a small monthly charge for the card. If the card is removed from its assigned TV for a period of time, the cable service may block the premium service as a security measure.

The current "first-generation" Digital-Cable-Ready TVs are one-way system, which means they don't support interactive services like video-on-demand and the cable-provider's interactive program guide. But CableCard-ready sets usually have TV Guide on Screen, a free interactive service that lists all your cable channels and doesn't need a phone connection. You can receive pay-per-view programs, but you'll have to order them by phone.

"Second-generation" Digital-Cable-Ready TVs could appear in 2007 (best guess), and will allow two-way services such as an interactive program guide, video-on-demand, and pay-per-view.

Is the manufacturer's viewing angle reliable?

Not very. Manufacturers do not follow any industry standard for measuring it, so you cannot compare among brands using listed specifications alone. We (CR) do an objective test that rates degradation of brightness, contrast, and color in horizontal and vertical directions. We usually note any especially wide or narrow viewing angle in our comments about specific models.

Motion blur is caused by the liquid-crystal molecule's inability to switch quickly.

This problem has been under active research for a while. Some gradual improvements have appeared, like "quick shoot" and black-insertion. Also, try turning off the "digital noise reduction" feature (if your TV has it) - it can cause fast motion to look blurry.

I heard or read somewhere in the past that you have to get a plasma TV "recharged" every year or so to keep it working correctly.

There is no such thing as recharging a plasma TV with new gas. It is sealed at the factory. Our data suggest that plasma sets are no less reliable in their first year of operation than picture-tube TVs. But it's too early to know what will happen in later years. See FAQ section B-8 more on reliability.

How much more electricity does a plasma television use over regular TV. Is it really a factor, or not?

Plasma TVs power consumption varies depending on what's being displayed. They consume more power (350-400 watts for the 42" size) during bright scenes. That's equivalent to four 100-watt light bulbs. But for most TV programs, which are relatively subdued, the power drain will be much less. A conventional 36-inch picture-tube TV runs at 250-300 watts. The difference is equivalent to only a couple of regular light bulbs.

No one knows for sure, as plasma is a relatively new technology and manufacturing techniques are still improving. Our data suggest that plasma sets are no less reliable in their first year of operation than picture-tube TVs. But it's too early to know what will happen in later years.

Like all other display types, the overall brightness gradually diminishes with use over time. But the change is so gradual that you wouldn't notice it, unless you measured it or compared it next to a new model. Manufacturers now estimate the time to half-brightness of the newest plasma screens at up to 60,000 viewing hours. To put it in perspective, 60,000 hours at 6 viewing hours each day would give a life of 27 years. Previously, industry experts had projected as little as 20,000 hours.

I am in a high altitude area at 6,500 feet, and the local cable guy says that I would be wasting my money buying a plasma TV because of distortions caused by the elevation.

Some plasma panels can generate a buzzing or hissing sound when used at high altitudes (over 6,200 feet above sea level). This is caused by the lower atmospheric pressure which allows the panel glass "sandwich" to expand an infinitesimal amount - just enough to cause leaking of charges between pixels.

There are a few plasma models specially designed for high altitudes. Check with local retailers and neighbors for ideas on which models may work better.

What is the lifetime for projection bulbs?

DLP, LCD and LCOS rear projection sets have bulbs that may eventually have to be replaced. They lose brightness gradually over time, but then fail totally.

Manufacturers claim anywhere from 2,000 to 8,000 hours to failure. That upper number may be optimistic -- 2,000 to 4,000 hours seems more realistic. A few sets have a "low power" brightness setting that gives a dimmer picture but extends bulb life.

Currently, common replacement bulb cost runs $200 to $400, though some bulbs are more. You might be able to replace a bulb yourself (check the manual). Otherwise figure in an extra $200 to $400 for the labor charge. Stores often offer an extended warranty which includes bulb replacement.

JVC has a TV technology they call D-ILA. What is it?

D-ILA (Direct-Drive Image Light Amplifier) is a JVC proprietary name for its LCOS (liquid-crystal-on-silicon) technology. LCOS is used in rear- and front-projection TVs. JVC and Hughes have been developing image-light-amplification for a long time.

There are other similar LCOS technologies like Sony's SXRD. LCOS sets use three spatial light modulators ("chips") for the simultaneous display of the red-green-blue primary colors. Using three chips is an improvement over the mass-market DLP sets which use only one chip. One-chip projectors may exhibit a bothersome "rainbow effect", caused in part by the spinning color wheel which is used to provide a color picture. The pixels on LCOS are also more tightly packed together than on most LCD and DLP chips - this reduces the visibility of the inter-pixel grid or "screen door" effect.

Are TV's made in China all the same, or is this fiction?

Even if the "one factory" rumor were close to true, there are still so many ways to customize TV designs that it complicates whatever conclusion you try to draw. While the basic components may be the same or similar among certain TVs, there still can be significant differences in circuitry, chassis, components, controls, etc. Also, it matters which type of TV you're talking about.

For LCD and plasma TVs, there are only a handful of panel manufacturers worldwide. But while panels may be similar across different brands, circuit design and components may differ.

For projection TVs, Texas Instruments makes the DLP chips that all manufacturers use, but there are light-engine and circuit differences among the models from various brands.

Do I have to get a cable box when I subscribe to cable?

Technically-speaking, you don't, though most people choose to. For basic or basic-enhanced cable service, you only need a conventional analog TV - this type of TV already has a regular built-in antenna/cable tuner. You will only pick up the analog, unscrambled channels, which are usually just your local and community-access stations.

As service providers emphasize digital service, they could slowly diminish their analog offerings, perhaps some day to zero.

If you have an HDTV with "QAM tuner" feature, you may receive unscrambled digital channels on cable. If you have a "Digital-Cable-Ready" HDTV, you may receive many digital (and HD) channels on cable - see FAQ section A-7.

What are these connections? Are they copy-protected?

HDMI (High Definition Multimedia Interface), DVI (Digital Visual Interface) and FireWire (IEEE-1394) are ways to send video signals digitally. When the source and receiving devices are themselves digital, it reduces the amount of internal signal processing needed to display the picture, resulting in potentially higher quality. Potentially, if all else were equal.

Signals sent via these methods are subject to copy protection. If the content was flagged by the provider as "No Copy", it won't be accepted by a recording device. If it was flagged "Copy once", it can be copied but the new copy will be flagged "No Copy". The other possible state is "Copy freely."

Signals sent via these methods are also subject to Digital Rights Management (DRM). If the content is flagged by the provider to be kept secure, the sending device will only output the signal if the receiving device contains the required DRM feature. If the receiving device fails to report back to the sending device about its DRM, the signal will be blocked or sent only in low-resolution. Security features include HDCP (High-bandwidth Digital Content Protection, for DVI and HDMI), DTCP (Digital Transmission Content Protection, for FireWire), and AACS (Advanced Access Content System, for the upcoming HD DVDs and Blu-Ray discs).

HDMI and FireWire have the added benefit of including audio and control signals along with the video (if the product/program can make use of them).

I need to get something that will read NTSC and PAL format DVDs. I found several out there but cannot find comparison reports to help me choose one.

As far as we know, region-code-free DVD players are modified by companies unaffiliated with the manufacturer. Technically they are not legal, as it defeats the regional coding system imposed by the DVD licensing authority.

Multi-format output capability (NTSC, PAL, SECAM) is a different issue. There are no legal usage problems. People may have access to differing standards because they obtain pre-recorded media from another country, or live near a border to a country that uses a different standard. We (CR) have not tested any of these products. (DVDs are produced only in NTSC and PAL format - there are no SECAM DVDs since the TVs sold in SECAM countries usually accept a video player's PAL signal.)

Outside the U.S., DVD regions (codes) are often larger than those defined for specific video formats. So a consumer DVD player sold in one region could output multiple video formats. For more details, see Jim Taylor's DVD FAQ.

You can find expert, unbiased ratings for foreign products. Consumers Union, publisher of Consumer Reports, is a member of International Consumer Research & Testing, Ltd. This organization promotes co-operation in consumer research and testing among its members and other organizations concerned with consumer matters. The links to their publications are listed here (their websites are each in their local language).

Should these models be considered?

Combined-function sets save space and are convenient to use, but there are a couple of drawbacks. First, if there is a mechanical failure in either device, the whole unit has to go in for service. Second, your recording and viewing options are limited, as usually there is only one analog tuner and a relatively limited number of features.

Should I buy an industrial-grade plasma set?

You can, but there are drawbacks. An industrial-grade panel may lack a stand, speakers, a tuner, and certain inputs. Front-access inputs and controls may be difficult to reach or even absent. You may need accessories to make the panel usable. Also, many industrial panels are ED, not HD, so make sure that you are getting the resolution you want.

For normal use, look for the least-expensive cables of reasonable quality and construction. They need not be high priced. Except for special situations, you may not need the most famous, highly-advertised, and expensive brands.

Audio retailers mark up accessory prices substantially, and the audio/video cable marketplace is populated with many manufacturers who try to capitalize on the mystique of cables. For example, they may use silver or exotic materials for an infinitesimal reduction in signal degradation.

Consider a premium brand if:

• you have a long cable run (over 100 feet), or
  
• you are picking up interference and need cables with better shielding, or
  
• you'll be repeatedly disconnecting/reconnecting and need more-rugged connectors.
  Gold plating may also be helpful in ocean-front homes with salty air.
  
  For digital signals the situation is very simple. Use the cheapest video cable of reasonable construction you can get. For DVI or HDMI, any cable that's designed to handle those signals should work fine. One caution, the signal may degrade too much when these cables are extended with adapters to long lengths (greater than 35 feet).
  
  The same applies to optical digital audio (TosLink). For coaxial digital audio (S/PDIF), use a standard 75-ohm video cable.
  
  
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What type of cables should I use to hook up my DVD and other components to the TV?

HDMI is a newer standard that incorporates sound. With DVI, sound requires a separate audio cable. Component may be just as good (or even better for picture-tube sets). See FAQ J-3 for more details.

The audio connection will be either optical, coaxial, or the traditional red-and-white RCA. Digital audio can be sent over optical cable or coaxial cable. Coaxial cable would probably be cheaper for a long-distance run.

The optical audio connection is called TosLink, and uses optical cable with special plastic connectors on each end. The coaxial connection is called S/PDIF, and uses 75-ohm video cable and RCA-type connectors.

Shop for lowest price and good construction. Very long lengths (greater than 35 feet) may degrade the signal, leading to an intermittent picture.

Would a line conditioner smooth the electrical voltage going into the TV?

A line conditioner should not be necessary to protect the set unless you often experience wide power fluctuations (generally very rare). Every TV we've tested in the last few years has been tolerant of moderate (15%) line-voltage fluctuations.

Will a surge protector stop lightning?

There is absolutely no device that will protect you from a direct lightning strike. The best protection is unplugging the power cord and the antenna cable in a storm. That includes satellite, cable or over the air connections, too.

A surge protector will protect you from power surges, including more remote lightning strikes. There are surge protectors sold with extensive warranty coverage. If you get one, make sure that it is a recognized brand (you are more likely to collect on the warranty), and that it also has antenna/cable connections.

Can I use a computer UPS for my TV?

A UPS (uninterruptible power supply) is a step up from a surge protector. These are common protection for PC's, and would protect you from brief power losses. One caution -- if you buy a UPS for your A/V equipment, make sure it has sine-wave output (not square-wave).

Will a UPS prevent the bulb in my (LCD, DLP, LCOS) RPTV from blowing out?

Generally no. It is actually redundant for bulb protection. Power is conditioned by the TV's power supply before it gets to the bulb. A UPS would protect the whole TV from a power cut, which is generally rare.

But if you live in a location where you need to watch TV during a power outage (tornado-alley, a hurricane coastal area, or a flood-prone region) it could be a plus. It would also allow you to shut the set off normally during a power failure. When you turn off the set, the cooling fan stays on for a few minutes to cool down the bulb slowly in order to prolong its life.

Do I need a special antenna for viewing HD television?

There is nothing special about an over-the-air antenna for HD or digital programs. Traditional Yagi and bow-tie antennas work fine. The farther away you are from the station, the larger antenna, with greater gain, you'll need. A lot also depends on the strength of the broadcast signal.

If you are close, even a simple indoor antenna may suffice. If you are 30 miles away you'll need a large long-range antenna. A lot also depends on the strength of the broadcasting signal.

Specifications for outdoor antennas are reliable. Indoor antennas are another story. There are many wild marketing claims. Some antennas have built in amplifiers, but amplifying a weak signal just gives you stronger noisy signal. Be cautious, make sure that you can return the product if it doesn't work well.

How does Consumer Reports pick TVs for testing?

We have professional Market Analysts on staff. They select brands and models that are likely to be easily found in stores nationwide and on-line. They also try to select models of various prices, with emphasis on the most-popular price ranges. They check to see if the selected models will still be in production when our test results are published. And they try to include models using new and promising technologies.

How does Consumer Reports rate HDTV sets? What are your criteria and testing methods?

We have professional electronic engineers on staff. We use both objective, scientific tests and measurements and subjective expert judgments. "How we test" gives you a quick overall explanation.

For TVs, picture-quality assessments include:

• Evaluation of attributes including black levels, color accuracy, and picture detail.
  
• Evaluation of the comb filter, aspect ratios, contrast, 3:2 pulldown compensation, over-scan, and geometric distortion (for picture-tube TVs only).
  
  We also evaluate:
  
• Ease-of-use, sound quality, viewing angle (LCDs and RPTVs), power consumption, tuner performance, signal format compatibility.
  
  Correct and consistent test signals are generated by industrial-quality equipment. Scores for each performance area are weighted to reflect their importance for overall quality, resulting in the final ratings. When possible, we also identify models that are similar to each other.
  
  
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We use CableCards provided by our local cable service provider. There is no CableCard emulator that we know of. We also have HD digital cable boxes in our labs for general use. But for picture-quality testing, we use industrial-quality hardware and computer-based equipment to generate our own signals.

Which retail stores does CR use to get prices? Stores around me charge more.

We have professional Price Analysts on staff. The prices we list are an average of nationwide price quotes obtained through standard reference sources. But any given region, or retailer, may list something different. It's also possible that a favorable rating from Consumer Reports encourage could some retailers to increase their prices.

For info on where to find the best price, see FAQ section H. And check the many on-line shopping tools such as MySimon.com, Shopzilla.com, Shopping.com, NexTag.com, Pricescan.com, or Shopper.cnet.com.

Why is there no info on the V-chip parental control feature from CR?

Starting January 1, 2000, the Federal Communications Commission (FCC) required all TVs 13" or larger to have V-chip, so this feature is now widely available and for the most part, well-understood. Additional parental controls now available include channel block-out (unconditionally locking out access to a channel), and front-panel lock-out (disabling the front-panel channel up/down buttons). These all rely on the parents to control children's access to the remote. Also, children must not learn the remote's master access code - hide the user manual from them.

For more information, see the FCC's web site:
www.fcc.gov/cgb/consumerfacts/vchip.html
www.fcc.gov/vchip

This chart can help you identify the largest-recommended widescreen HD TV for your room size.

"Approximate Viewing Distance" is given in feet from the TV screen to your eyes. You can of course use a smaller than indicated size, but the immersive effect will diminish. (If you choose a larger than indicated TV, or if you have to sit closer than recommended, then look for the highest native resolution to avoid seeing screen pixels.) See FAQ section B for more on native resolution.

Widescreen HD set

Approximate viewing distance	Screen size
2 feet	14 to 17 inches
3	18 to 24
4	25 to 31
5	32 to 38
6	39 to 45
7	46 to 52
8	53 to 59
9	60 to 66
10	67 to 73
11	74 to 80
12	81 to 87
13	88 to 94
14	95 to 101
15	102 to 108

For more about determining viewing distance, try the viewing distance calculator at "My home theater" website.

A perfectly dark room makes the TV's job easier, as it doesn't have to compete with other light. But staring at a single bright source, the TV, it can bother some people's eyes. So experts recommend having a little dim light around the room. That also helps in using the remote control and navigating the room when you get up. Don't let the light doesn't shine directly on the TV screen and cause glare in your eyes - keep it diffuse. Point the lights at the walls or ceiling to spread it out.

Exception: Front-projection systems are not very bright to begin with, so a perfectly dark room is best for them.

These types are both considered HD-compatible sets.

An HDTV set, also called "integrated HDTV", has an ATSC tuner built in. It will display HD channels in high definition. SD images will display in standard-definition, but should generally look fine. Some integrated HDTVs also have a tuner for digital cable - see FAQ G-10 for more details.

An "HD-ready" set is capable of displaying an HD image, but its built-in tuner is only the standard analog type. To watch HD broadcasts, you need an external digital tuner - an ATSC tuner, HD cable box, or HD satellite box. This set can display digital programming in HD or SD (standard definition), as well as analog programming.

Given a clean signal (which depends on your antenna signal, cable or satellite provider), HD sets typically can give you a better picture than SD or ED sets when viewed from the optimum viewing distance.

What image quality do I need for just DVD viewing?

DVD image quality is in between regular analog TV and digital HDTV broadcasts. To get the best DVD picture, get a widescreen HD set. While an ED (enhanced-definition) TV will work fine, you will find that most new sets are now HD. Also, keep in mind that HD-DVD and Blu-ray disk players are available and provide pre-recorded HD movies.

I understand that the market trend is away from the old 4:3 screens to the new 16:9 widescreens. Why?

It's a larger window, needed for optimal viewing of movies. The film industry made the transition to widescreen in the 50's and nearly all movies are now shot in widescreen. When you see them on 4:3 TV screens, either the sides are cut off, or black bars appear above and below the image. HDTV in widescreen is the first major change in the TV-viewing format since the introduction of color in 1954.

Most current TV is broadcast in the traditional, almost square, 4:3 aspect ratio. The new HD TV standard calls for a widescreen 16:9 ratio because prime HD programming is now produced in that format. DVD's are also generally in wide-screen (though the ratios can vary somewhat). If you buy a widescreen set, you can see current HD programming in full widescreen.

DVDs will also, in most cases, just about fill the screen. Regular 4:3 programs will have gray or black sidebars (unless you use a stretch/zoom option to fill the screen).

If you buy a standard 4:3 TV, regular programs will of course fill the screen. However, you may not be able to receive HD programs unless the set is HD-capable. And even then, you will either have black or grey bars above and below the picture ("letterboxing"), or the sides of the picture will be cut off. The same applies to a DVD picture, unless the DVD offers a menu choice for "standard size".

Probably not for a while. The smaller screen-sizes remain useful as portables and in small spaces, and can be made very inexpensively. However, larger analog TVs are disappearing.

An analog TV can be used into the future if you subscribe to cable or satellite service. The service provider should supply the appropriate set top box with analog outputs. And we expect even future video products will provide single analog outputs to drive these analog TVs.

But if you depend on an over-the-air signal, you will need an ATSC tuner.

What are the differences between these sets? What does "HD-ready" mean?

These TV types differ in their ability to tune in digital signals, and in the picture quality/image detail they provide. Both generally increase in capability as you read down the list:

• Analog = The traditional color TV that can receive standard analog TV broadcasts and analog cable channels. It cannot receive digital channels. It can accept the standard-definition signals that VCRs and camcorders send out. It is fading from the market for screen sizes over 13-inches, as digital types become common. Our general advice has been that for general TV-watching (news, children's shows, etc.), a highly-rated analog TV is a safe choice. When analog terrestrial broadcasting is closed down on Feb. 18, 2009, an analog TV will still work with cable & satellite services. Or it will still work in combination with an external ATSC tuner, though it won't show HD.
  
• SDTV = Standard-definition TV. A relatively new type of digital TV from brands like RCA and Sony, with picture detail similar to Analog TV, but also capable of receiving digital stations - it has a built-in ATSC tuner. Provides off-air reception of digital stations at a lower price than the other digital types.
  
• ED-ready = Enhanced-definition-ready. Sometimes labeled "EDTV Monitor". A type of digital TV, with theoretically better picture than Analog and SDTV when fed better-quality signals. Often comes in the widescreen 16:9 format, but not as high a resolution as HD. It can receive analog stations -- like Analog and SDTV -- but digital stations must be tuned by an external device (cable box, satellite box or off-air-tuner set-top box). Can accept the progressive-scan signal from modern DVD players.
  
• EDTV = Enhanced-definition TV. Widescreen 16:9 screen. Like ED-ready but has a built-in ATSC tuner. Any HD channel being received would be down-converted to suit the lower detail of the ED set.
  
• HD-ready = High-definition-ready. Sometimes labeled "HDTV Monitor". Usually has a widescreen 16:9 screen. Like ED-ready but can display HD signals in HD. Can accept the HD signals sent over component video, DVI or HDMI cables. It is nearly obsolete-proof because the all the trickier decoding is done externally by a box supplied by your cable or satellite service provider. Or, if over-the-air digital television encoding/decoding methods ever change, you lose only the price of an ATSC tuner, and simply upgrade the box.
  
• HDTV = High-definition TV. Usually has a widescreen 16:9 screen. Like HD-ready but has a built-in ATSC tuner. Any HD channel being received would be displayed in HD.
  
• Digital-cable-ready HDTV = Also termed "DCR HDTV". Like HDTV but can also tune in encrypted digital cable channels. A special card called a CableCard, which you obtain from the service provider, must be installed in order to receive the encrypted channels.
  
  
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Here is a basic TV Decision guide with six basic questions:

Decision #1 - Do you care about what the TV looks like?

• Depth (thinness)
  Conventional picture-tube TVs are boxy.
  Flat-panel TVs (LCD and plasma) are relatively thin.
  Rear-projection TVs are somewhat boxy, but the "microdisplay" rear-projectors are thinner.
  
  
• Color
  The latest trend is matte silver finish, though some black and dual black/silver finishes can be found.
  
  
• Styling and shape
  TVs usually have speakers on each side of the screen to enhance the stereo effect, but some have the speakers below the screen to trim down the width. Some flat-panels have removable speakers. Flat-panel TVs usually come with a table stand. This TV stand can be square or round or have feet that jut outward. Some stands can swivel. Some smaller flat-panels can tilt.
  
  Decision #2 - Do you want to have the newest technology?
  "Newest technology" in TV can refer to several things -- the type of display, the resolution (definition), and the variety of signals the TV can receive by itself. TVs come with various combinations of each.
  
• Display
  Flat-panel TVs include LCDs (liquid-crystal) and plasma displays. They work differently and have some different characteristics, but they both allow a profile slim enough so the TV may be hung on a wall. They can provide more resolution (sharpness) than the standard picture-tube TV, but there are high-definition picture-tubes too, and the best of these can display images of excellent quality.
  
  Note that most HD displays are the widescreen 16:9 type instead of the traditional, squarish 4:3 type.
  
  
• Resolution
  The familiar conventional picture-tube TV has a standard-definition image -- fine for watching VCR tapes, good for analog broadcast TV, and just good enough to show the clean movie images from DVDs. But DVD movies can benefit a bit more from an ED (enhanced-definition) display, which may provide a slightly cleaner image. Much more impressive is an HD (high-definition) image with several times the detail of SD (standard-definition).
  
  
• Signal reception
  A conventional TV can receive regular analog, off-air and unscrambled (basic) cable channels, which are all SD (standard-definition). The newer class of TVs - "integrated EDTV" and "integrated HDTV" - can also receive digital channels.
  
  Decision #3 - Do you want a TV with a bigger screen-size?
  See FAQ F-1 to see what screen size will work in your room. TVs are measured diagonally, from one corner to an opposite corner. Viewing distance is measured from the screen to your eyes.
  
  
• Picture-tube TV
  Current maximum size: 34-inches
  Optimum viewing distance: 4-5 feet
  
  
• LCD TV (liquid crystal display)
  Current maximum size: 37-inches
  Optimum viewing distance: 5 to 6 feet
  
  
• Plasma TV
  Current sizes: 42-inches to 60-inches
  Optimum viewing distance, 42 - 6 feet
  Optimum viewing distance, 50 - 7 feet
  
  
• Rear-projection TV
  Current sizes: 47-inches to 61-inches or more
  Optimum viewing distance, 57 - 8 to 9 feet
  
  
• Front-projection TV
  Available to provide even bigger images.
  Complicated to setup.
  Best viewed in a dark room.
  
  Decision #4 - Do you want to get the best price for the TV you're interested in?
  In our 12/05 survey, CR readers reported that they felt they got the best price from stores such as Costco, BJ's Wholesale, Sam's Club, and web vendors such as Amazon.com, Costco.com, J&R.com, and Buy.com. The highest overall satisfaction came from web vendors such as Crutchfield.com, Amazon.com, Costco.com, and J&R.com.
  
  Brick-and-mortar stores like Ritz Camera, Tweeter Home Entertainment, and Ultimate Electronics, though they scored less well on price, excelled in selection and service, which may be important when shopping for complex, high-tech products. For the full story, see "Electronics: Best places to buy."
  
  Decision #5 - Do you want to be able to connect all your video gear to the TV?
  Almost all TVs allow you to connect at least a few video devices, and usually as prices go up, the number of inputs increase as well. Inputs are usually detailed in the on-line model specs, and we show this data in our Ratings. If you plan to collect more audio/video gear, look for extra inputs and outputs.
  
  Decision #6 - Do you want your TV purchase to be as "future-proof" as possible.
  The history of technology shows that over time, higher performance and more functions become available at decreasing prices, especially in electronics.
  
  Thus risk of buying a product that may lose market support. Risk can be somewhat controlled by selecting products of high functionality and flexibility. CR product Ratings can help you make good choices, and this list can help you steer clear of the most-obvious risks:
  
  What makes an electronics product a risky choice?
  • It is made only by one manufacturer.
  • It uses a very new, unproven technology.
  • It uses technology that's not supported by other major manufacturers.
  • It requires a service subscription to function, and there is little or no choice of service providers.
  • It is not backward-compatible -- it can't use what the previous generation used.
  • It is not forward-compatible -- it can't be upgraded to work with future-generation products.
  
  Most TVs are basically future-proof since the risk factors listed above generally do not apply. However, some new features can raise red flags (e.g., HDMI and DVI inputs regarding digital-rights management, and CableCard features regarding interactive capabilities). As long as you don't depend on those new features, the risk-factor doesn't apply to you.
  
  
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This feature means it can tune to digital TV broadcasts that are sent over-ther-air (terrestrially). It is typically noted in ads as "ATSC tuner". Some experts also call it a "digital terrestrial television tuner" (DTT tuner). It can be a stand-alone device, or be built into some TVs (called "integrated HDTVs") and some satellite receivers. The external boxes currently sell for a few hundred dollars, but are expected to drop to $50 by 2009. Also, an antenna is needed to pick up the off-air signal - this can be either the roof-top yagi type or indoor rabbit-ears-and-loop if the signal is strong enough.

Besides being able to receive conventional analog broadcasts, it can also receive the digital TV signals described in FAQ A-3.

According to recent federal laws, TVs sold after March 1, 2006 will have to include a built-in ATSC tuner, and over-the-air analog broadcasts must cease after February 18, 2009.

Note: ATSC is an acronym for Advanced Television Systems Committee. The ATSC is a group of industry experts who develop new television standards for the Federal Communications Commission.

How can I add an ATSC tuner to an HD-ready TV?

An ATSC tuner is sold in external set-top box. It's relatively easy to connect one to your HD-ready set. It will enable you to see digital programming in HD or SD, as well as analog programming, that's broadcast over-the-air. They currently sell for a few hundred dollars. You will also need an antenna. See FAQ A-4 for more details.

The government has required that an ATSC tuner be built in to new TV sets sold after March 1, 2006. This applies to all sizes of TVs.

Alternatively, you could add an HD cable box or HD satellite box to get digital and HD channels. Check your owner's manual for details on connecting the cables.

If the TV has a "built-in ATSC tuner" does this mean I'll also need a tuner for cable or satellite HD channels?

A basic HDTV cannot tune digital cable or satellite channels. It can only receive digital off-air channels (which includes HD), and analog off-air and cable channels. If want to receive digital cable and satellite (which also includes HD), then yes, you will need a separate tuner for either satellite or cable.

An HDTV that has the "QAM tuner" feature can also tune unscrambled digital cable channels. These channels may include your local stations in HD.

A newer type called "Digital-Cable-Ready HDTV" can also receive digital (and HD) cable signals (but not satellite signals).

TVs with integrated satellite tuners are quite rare but are sometimes offered by satellite service providers.

Since the more expensive satellite tuners usually incorporate over-the-air HDTV capability, the digital off-air feature of an "Integrated HDTV" may be of no advantage, and an HD-ready set could be cheaper - something to remember if you're a satellite customer.

A salesman stated that it was impossible to get enhanced-definition to work with a high-definition signal.

If the EDTV is a plasma display, the salesman is wrong (or you misheard him). Every plasma-EDTV we've tested could accept an HD component video signal. The EDTV has a scaler-circuit inside which down-converts the signal to match the screen's native resolution. EDTVs typically has a native resolution of 852x480 pixels.

For LCDs, the salesman could be correct - a few of them are a basic ED-ready type that won't accept HD signals at all.

While an ED picture isn't HD, the picture can still be very good on the best models. If you're viewing it from farther than the recommended distance (see FAQ F-1), the lower resolution won't matter.

CR said that a certain TV "can't display image from 720p HD through the component inputs". What does this mean?

Here's the story:

• All HD-capable TVs accept a 1080i component signal, but some do not accept 720p - these exceptions require a special setting to be made in the external set-top box.
  
  
• Some HD-capable TVs do accept the 720p signal through the component inputs. However, some only accept the 720p signal through the DVI or HDMI input, and not the component input. Not all set-top boxes have a DVI or HDMI output.
  
  If your TV doesn't accept 720p, you'll need to set your external set-top box's output setting to "1080i" (not "720p", "Auto" or "Native"). On this setting, the box will convert all signals it receives - including 720p signals - to 1080i. This action may have a slight negative effect on the picture quality for signals other than 1080i. If you have multiple HD set-top boxes, you must do this for each of them.
  
  If you have an "integrated HDTV", the process is automatically handled internally for over-the-air HD channels because the ATSC tuner is built in.
  
  
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Can I use my TV as a monitor?

Many LCD, RPTV and plasma TVs have a computer RGB input (DE-15 connector), the same used by computer monitors. Alternatively, the DVI (or HDMI) input could also be used since some computers have those outputs.

You must set your computer's video output signal to one that the TV can accept, such as 1024x768. For Windows XP, go to Start --> Settings --> Control panel --> Display --> Settings --> Screen resolution (slide adjustment). Next, you must enable the RGB video output port, usually by pushing a special button on the keyboard.

A computer monitor image may still be superior to TV image. Computer monitors generally have much higher native resolutions which give a finer image, but you may have to adjust color settings to be optimized for video.

Using a plasma or picture-tube RPTV to play video games or display other static images is not recommended because of the risk of image "burn-in." See FAQs N-2 through N-5.

Can I buy a Industrial plasma set?

You can, but there are drawbacks. Industrial (commercial-use) panels often have no stand, no speakers, no tuner, and very limited inputs. So you may need to purchase these as accessories. Also, many industrial panels are ED, not HD, so make sure that you are getting the resolution you want.

Is the Extended Data Service (XDS) feature good to have?

XDS (previously known as EDS) stands for Extended Data Services and is used in analog TV broadcasts. Like closed captioning, it permits broadcasters to display program information such as the time of day, station call letters, network, curre